the naturalist on the river amazons-第13部分

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　central　government。

On　our　second　visit　to　the　mills；　we　stayed　ten　days。　There　is　a　large　reservoir　and　also　a　natural　lake　near　the　place；　both　containing　aquatic　plants；　whose　leaves　rest　on　the　surface　like　our　water　lilies；　but　they　are　not　so　elegant　as　our　nymphaea；　either　in　leaf　or　flower。　On　the　banks　of　these　pools　grow　quantities　of　a　species　of　fan…leaved　palm　tree；　the　Carana；　whose　stems　are　surrounded　by　whorls　of　strong　spines。　I　sometimes　took　a　montaria；　and　paddled　myself　alone　down　the　creek。　One　day　I　got　upset；　and　had　to　land　on　a　grassy　slope　leading　to　an　old　plantation；　where　I　ran　about　naked　while　my　clothes　were　being　dried　on　a　bush。　The　Iritiri　Creek　is　not　so　picturesque　as　many　others　which　I　subsequently　explored。　Towards　the　Magoary；　the　banks　at　the　edge　of　the　water　are　clothed　with　mangrove　bushes；　and　beneath　them　the　muddy　banks　into　which　the　long　roots　that　hang　down　from　the　fruit　before　it　leaves　the　branches　strike　their　fibres；　swarm　with　crabs。　On　the　lower　branches　the　beautiful　bird；　Ardea　helias；　is　found。　This　is　a　small　heron　of　exquisitely　graceful　shape　and　mien；　its　plumage　is　minutely　variegated　with　bars　and　spots　of　many　colours；　like　the　wings　of　certain　kinds　of　moths。　It　is　difficult　to　see　the　bird　in　the　woods；　on　account　of　its　sombre　colours；　and　the　shadiness　of　its　dwelling…places；　but　its　note；　a　soft　long…drawn　whistle；　often　betrays　its　hiding　place。　I　was　told　by　the　Indians　that　it　builds　in　trees；　and　that　the　nest；　which　is　made　of　clay；　is　beautifully　constructed。　It　is　a　favourite　pet…bird　of　the　Brazilians；　who　call　it　Pavao　（pronounced　Pavaong）；　or　peacock。　I　often　had　opportunities　to　observe　its　habits。　It　soon　becomes　tame；　and　walks　about　the　floors　of　houses　picking　up　scraps　of　food　or　catching　insects；　which　it　secures　by　walking　gently　to　the　place　where　they　settle；　and　spearing　them　with　its　long；　slender　beak。　It　allows　itself　to　be　handled　by　children；　and　will　answer　to　its　name　〃Pavao！　Pavao！〃　walking　up　with　a　dainty；　circumspect　gait；　and　taking　a　fly　or　beetle　from　the　hand。

During　these　rambles　by　land　and　water　we　increased　our　collections　considerably。　Before　we　left　the　mills；　we　arranged　a　joint　excursion　to　the　Tocantins。　Mr。　Leavens　wished　to　ascend　that　river　to　ascertain　if　the　reports　were　true；　that　cedar　grew　abundantly　between　the　lowermost　cataract　and　the　mouth　of　the　Araguava；　and　we　agreed　to　accompany　him。

While　we　were　at　the　mills；　a　Portuguese　trader　arrived　with　a　quantity　of　worm…eaten　logs　of　this　cedar；　which　he　had　gathered　from　the　floating　timber　in　the　current　of　the　main　Amazons。　The　tree　producing　this　wood；　which　is　named　cedar　on　account　of　the　similarity　of　its　aroma　to　that　of　the　true　cedars；　is　not；　of　course；　a　coniferous　tree；　as　no　member　of　that　class　is　found　in　equatorial　America；　at　least　in　the　Amazons　region。　It　is；　according　to　Von　Martius；　the　Cedrela　Odorata；　an　exogen　belonging　to　the　same　order　as　the　mahogany　tree。　The　wood　is　light；　and　the　tree　is　therefore；　on　falling　into　the　water；　floated　down　with　the　river　currents。　It　must　grow　in　great　quantities　somewhere　in　the　interior；　to　judge　from　the　number　of　uprooted　trees　annually　carried　to　the　sea；　and　as　the　wood　is　much　esteemed　for　cabinet　work　and　canoe　building；　it　is　of　some　importance　to　learn　where　a　regular　supply　can　be　obtained。　We　were　glad　of　course　to　arrange　with　Mr。　Leavens；　who　was　familiar　with　the　language；　and　an　adept　in　river　navigationso　we　returned　to　Para　to　ship　our　collections　for　England；　and　prepare　for　the　journey　to　a　new　region。


CHAPTER　III

PARA

Religious　HolidaysMarmoset　MonkeysSerpentsInsects

Before　leaving　the　subject　of　Para；　where　I　resided；　as　already　stated；　in　all　eighteen　months；　it　will　be　necessary　to　give　a　more　detailed　account　of　several　matters　connected　with　the　customs　of　the　people　and　the　Natural　History　of　the　neighbourhood；　which　have　hitherto　been　only　briefly　mentioned。　I　reserve　an　account　of　the　trade　and　improved　condition　of　Para　in　1859　for　the　end　of　this　narrative。

During　the　first　few　weeks　of　our　stay；　many　of　those　religious　festivals　took　place；　which　occupied　so　large　a　share　of　the　time　and　thoughts　of　the　people。　These　were　splendid　affairs；　wherein　artistically…arranged　processions　through　the　streets；　accompanied　by　thousands　of　people；　military　displays；　the　clatter　of　fireworks；　and　the　clang　of　military　music；　were　superadded　to　pompous　religious　services　in　the　churches。　To　those　who　had　witnessed　similar　ceremonies　in　the　Southern　countries　of　Europe；　there　would　be　nothing　remarkable　perhaps　in　these　doings；　except　their　taking　place　amidst　the　splendours　of　tropical　nature；　but　to　me　they　were　full　of　novelty；　and　were　besides　interesting　as　exhibiting　much　that　was　peculiar　in　the　manners　of　the　people。

The　festivals　celebrate　either　the　anniversaries　of　events　concerning　saints；　or　those　of　the　more　important　transactions　in　the　life　of　Christ。　To　them　have　been　added；　since　the　Independence；　many　gala　days　connected　with　the　　events　in　the　Brazilian　national　history；　but　these　have　all　a　semi…religious　character。　The　holidays　had　become　so　numerous；　and　interfered　so　much　with　trade　and　industry　towards　the　year　1852；　that　the　Brazilian　Government　was　obliged　to　reduce　them；　obtaining　the　necessary　permission　from　Rome　to　abolish　several　which　were　of　minor　importance。　Many　of　those　which　have　been　retained　are　declining　in　importance　since　the　introduction　of　railways　and　steamboats；　and　the　increased　devotion　of　the　people　to　commerce；　at　the　time　of　our　arrival；　however；　they　were　in　full　glory。　The　way　they　were　managed　was　in　this　fashion。　A　general　manager　or　〃Juiz〃　for　each　festival　was　elected　by　lot　every　year　in　the　vestry　of　the　church；　and　to　him　were　handed　over　all　the　paraphernalia　pertaining　to　the　particular　festival　which　he　was　chosen　to　manage；　the　image　of　the　saint；　the　banners；　silver　crowns　and　so　forth。　He　then　employed　a　number　of　people　to　go　the　round　of　the　parish；　and　collect　alms　towards　defraying　the　expenses。　It　was　considered　that　the　greater　the　amount　of　money　spent　in　wax　candles；　fireworks；　music　and　feasting；　the　greater　the　honour　done　to　the　saint。　If　the　Juiz　was　a　rich　man；　he　seldom　sent　out　alms…gatherers；　but　celebrated　the　whole　affair　at　his　own　expense；　which　was　sometimes　to　the　extent　of　several　hundred　pounds。　Each　festival　lasted　nine　days　（a　novena）；　and　in　many　cases　refreshments　for　the　public　were　provided　every　evening。　In　the　smaller　towns　a　ball　took　place　two　or　three　evenings　during　the　novena；　and　on　the　last　day　there　was　a　grand　dinner。　The　priest；　of　course；　had　to　be　paid　very　liberally；　especially　for　the　sermon　delivered　on　the　Saint's　Day　or　termination　of　the　festival；　sermons　being　extra　duty　in　Brazil。

There　was　much　difference　as　to　the　accessories　of　these　festivals　between　the　interior　towns　and　villages　and　the　capital；　but　little　or　no　work　was　done　anywhere　whilst　they　lasted；　and　they　tended　much　to　demoralise　the　people。　It　was　soon　perceived　that　religion　is　rather　the　amusement　of　the　Paraenses；　than　their　serious　exercise。　The　ideas　of　the　majority　evidently　do　not　reach　beyond　the　belief　that　all　the　proceedings　are；　in　each　case；　in　honour　of　the　particular　wooden　image　enshrined　at　the　church。　The　uneducated　Portuguese　immigrants　seemed　to　me　to　have　very　degrading　notions　of　religion。

I　have　often　travelled　in　the　company　of　these　shining　examples　of　European　enlightenment。　They　generally　carry　with　them；　wherever　they　go；　a　small　image　of　some　favourite　saint　in　their　trunks；　and　when　a　squall　or　any　other　danger　arises；　their　first　impulse　is　to　rush　to　the　cabin；　take　out　the　image　and　clasp　it　to　their　lips；　whilst　uttering　a　prayer　for　protection。　The　negroes　and　mulattos　are　similar　in　this　respect　to　the　low　Portuguese；　but　I　think　they　show　a　purer　devotional　feeling；　and　in　conversation；　I　have　always　found　them　to　be　more　rational　in　religious　views　than　the　lower　orders　of　Portuguese。　As　to　the　Indians；　with　the　exception　of　the　more　civilised　families　residing　near　the　large　towns；　they　exhibit　no　religious　sentiment　at　all。　They　have　their　own　patron　saint；　St。　Thome；　and　celebrate　his　anniversary　in　the　orthodox　way；　for　they　are　fond　of　observing　all　the　formalities；　but　they　think　the　feasting　to　be　of　equal　importance　with　the　church　ceremonies。　At　some　of　the　festivals；　masquerading　forms　a　large　part　of　the　proceedings；　and　then　the　Indians　really　shine。　They　get　up　capital　imitations　of　wild　animals；　dress　themselves　to　represent　the　Caypor　and　other　fabulous　creatures　of　the　forest；　and　act　their　parts　throughout　with　great　cleverness。　When　St。　Thome's　festival　takes　place；　every　employer　of　Indians　knows　that　all　his　men　will　get　drunk。　The　Indian；　generally　too　shy　to　ask　directly　for　cashaca　（rum）；　is　then　very　bold；　he　asks　for　a　frasco　at　once　（two…and…a…half　bottles）；　and　says；　if　interrogated；　that　he　is　going　to　fuddle　in　honour　of　St。　Thome。

In　the　city　of　Para；　the　provincial　government　assists　to　augment　the　splendour　of　the　religious　holidays。　The　processions　which　traverse　the　principal　streets　consist；　in　the　first　place；　of　the　image　of　the　saint；　and　those　of　several　other　subordinate　ones　belonging　to　the　same　church；　these　are　borne　on　the　shoulders　of　respectable　householders；　who　volunteer　for　the　purposesometimes　you　will　see　your　neighbour　the　grocer　or　the　carpenter　groaning　under　the　load。　The　priest　and　his　crowd　of　attendants　precede　the　images；　arrayed　in　embroidered　robes；　and　protected　by　magnificent　sunshadesno　useless　ornament　here；　for　the　heat　is　very　great　when　the　sun　is　not　obscured。　On　each　side　of　the　long　line　the　citizens　walk；　clad　in　crimson　silk　cloaks　and　holding　each　a　large　lighted　wax　candle。　Behind　follows　a　regiment　or　two　of　foot　soldiers　with　their　bands　of　music；　and　last　of　all　the　crowdthe　coloured　people　being　cleanly　dressed　and　preserving　a　grave　demeanour。　The　women　are　always　in　great　force；　their　luxuriant　black　hair　decorated　with　jasmines；　white　orchids　and　other　tropical　flowers。　They　are　dressed　in　their　usual　holiday　attire；　gauze　chemises　and　black　silk