the naturalist on the river amazons-第19部分
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The next day before sunrise a fine breeze sprang up； and the men awoke and set the sails。 We glided all day through channels between islands with long； white； sandy beaches； over which； now and then； aquatic and wading birds were seen running。 The forest was low； and had a harsh； dry aspect。 Several palm trees grew here which we had not before seen。 On low bushes； near the water； pretty； red…headed tanagers （Tanagra gularis） were numerous； flitting about and chirping like sparrows。 About half…past four p。m。； we brought to at the mouth of a creek or channel； where there was a great extent of sandy beach。 The sand had been blown by the wind into ridges and undulations； and over the more moist parts； large flocks of sandpipers were running about。 Alexandro and I had a long ramble over the rolling plain； which came as an agreeable change after the monotonous forest scenery amid which we had been so long travelling。 He pointed out to me the tracks of a huge jaguar on the sand。 We found here； also； our first turtle's nest； and obtained 120 eggs from it； which were laid at a depth of nearly two feet from the surface the mother first excavating a hole and afterwards； covering it up with sand。 The place is discoverable only by following the tracks of the turtle from the water。 I saw here an alligator for the first time； which reared its head and shoulders above the water just after I had taken a bath near the spot。 The night was calm and cloudless； and we employed the hours before bedtime in angling by moonlight。
On the 10th； we reached a small settlement called Patos； consisting of about a dozen houses； and built on a high； rocky bank； on the eastern shore。 The rock is the same nodular conglomerate which is found at so many places； from the seacoast to a distance of 600 miles up the Amazons。 Mr。 Leavens made a last attempt here to engage men to accompany us to the Araguaya； but it was in vain； not a soul could be induced by any amount of wages to go on such an expedition。 The reports as to the existence of cedar were very vague。 All said that the tree was plentiful somewhere； but no one could fix on the precise locality。 I believe that the cedar grows； like all other forest trees； in a scattered way； and not in masses anywhere。 The fact of its being the principal tree observed floating down with the current of the Amazons is to be explained by its wood being much lighter than that of the majority of trees。 When the banks are washed away by currents； trees of all species fall into the river； but the heavier ones； which are the most numerous； sink； and the lighter； such as the cedar； alone float down to the sea。
Mr。 Leavens was told that there were cedar trees at Trocara； on the opposite side of the river； near some fine rounded hills covered with forest； visible from Patos； so there we went。 We found here several families encamped in a delightful spot。 The shore sloped gradually down to the water； and was shaded by a few wide…spreading trees。 There was no underwood。 A great number of hammocks were seen slung between the tree trunks； and the litter of a numerous household lay scattered about。 Women； old and young； some of the latter very good…looking； and a large number of children； besides pet animals； enlivened the encampment。 They were all half…breeds； simple； well…disposed people； and explained to us that they were inhabitants of Cameta； who had come thus far； eighty miles； to spend the summer months。 The only motive they could give for coming was that： 〃it was so hot in the town in the verao （summer）； and they were all so fond of fresh fish。〃
Thus； these simple folks think nothing of leaving home and business to come on a three months' picnic。 It is the annual custom of this class of people throughout the province to spend a few months of the fine season in the wilder parts of the country。 They carry with them all the farinha they can scrape together； this being the only article of food necessary to provide。 The men hunt and fish for the day's wants； and sometimes collect a little India…rubber； salsaparilla； or copaiba oil； to sell to traders on their return； the women assist in paddling the canoes； do the cooking； and sometimes fish with rod and line。 The weather is enjoyable the whole time； and so days and weeks pass happily away。
One of the men volunteered to walk with us into the forest； and show us a few cedar trees。 We passed through a mile or two of spiny thickets； and at length came upon the banks of the rivulet Trocara； which flows over a stony bed； and； about a mile above its mouth； falls over a ledge of rocks； thus forming a very pretty cascade。 In the neighbourhood； we found a number of specimens of a curious land…shell； a large flat Helix； with a labyrinthine mouth （Anastoma）。 We learned afterwards that it was a species which had been discovered a few years previously by Dr。 Gardner； the botanist； on the upper part of the Tocantins。
We saw here； for the first time； the splendid Hyacinthine macaw （Macrocercus hyacinthinus； Lath。； the Araruna of the natives）； one of the finest and rarest species of the Parrot family。 It only occurs in the interior of Brazil； from 16' S。 lat。 to the southern border of the Amazons valley。 It is three feet long from the beak to the tip of the tail； and is entirely of a soft hyacinthine blue colour； except round the eyes； where the skin is naked and white。 It flies in pairs； and feeds on the hard nuts of several palms； but especially of the Mucuja （Acrocomia lasiospatha）。 These nuts； which are so hard as to be difficult to break with a heavy hammer； are crushed to a pulp by the powerful beak of this macaw。
Mr。 Leavens was thoroughly disgusted with the people of Patos。 Two men had come from below with the intention； I believe； of engaging with us； but they now declined。 The inspector； constable； or governor of the place appeared to be a very slippery customer； and I fancy discouraged the men from going； whilst making a great show of forwarding our views。 These outlying settlements are the resort of a number of idle； worthless characters。 There was a kind of festival going on； and the people fuddled themselves with cashiri； an intoxicating drink invented by the Indians。 It is made by soaking mandioca cakes in water until fermentation takes place； and tastes like new beer。
Being unable to obtain men； Mr。 Leavens now gave up his project of ascending the river as far as the Araguaya。 He assented to our request； however； to ascend to the cataracts near Arroyos。 We started； therefore； from Patos with a more definite aim before us than we had hitherto。 The river became more picturesque as we advanced。 The water was very low； it being now the height of the dry reason； the islands were smaller than those further down； and some of them were high and rocky。 Bold wooded bluffs projected into the stream； and all the shores were fringed with beaches of glistening white sand。 On one side of the river there was an extensive grassy plain or campo with isolated patches of trees scattered over it。 On the 14th and following day we stopped several times to ramble ashore。 Our longest excursion was to a large shallow lagoon； choked up with aquatic plants； which lay about two miles across the campo。 At a place called Juquerapua； we engaged a pilot to conduct us to Arroyos； and a few miles above the pilot's house； arrived at a point where it was not possible to advance further in our large canoe on account of the rapids。
September 16th。Embarked at six a。m。 in a large montaria which had been lent to us for this part of our voyage by Senor Seixas； leaving the vigilinga anchored close to a rocky islet； named Santa Anna； to await our return。 Isidoro was left in charge； and we were sorry to be obliged to leave behind also our mulatto Jose； who had fallen ill since leaving Baiao。 We had then remaining only Alexandro； Manoel； and the pilot； a sturdy Tapuyo named Joaquim scarcely a sufficient crew to paddle against the strong currents。
At ten a。m。 we arrived at the first rapids； which are called Tapaiunaquara。 The river； which was here about a mile wide； was choked up with rocks； a broken ridge passing completely across it。 Between these confused piles of stone the currents were fearfully strong； and formed numerous eddies and whirlpools。 We were obliged to get out occasionally and walk from rock to rock； whilst the men dragged the canoe over the obstacles。 Beyond Tapaiunaquara； the stream became again broad and deep； and the river scenery was beautiful in the extreme。 The water was clear and of a bluish…green colour。 On both sides of the stream stretched ranges of wooded hills； and in the middle picturesque islets rested on the smooth water； whose brilliant green woods fringed with palms formed charming bits of foreground to the perspective of sombre hills fading into grey in the distance。 Joaquim pointed out to us grove after grove of Brazil nut trees （Bertholletia excelsa） on the mainland。 This is one of the chief collecting grounds for this nut。 The tree is one of the loftiest in the forest； towering far above its fellows； we could see the woody fruits； large and round as cannon…balls； dotted over the branches。 The currents were very strong in some places； so that during the greater part of the way the men preferred to travel near the shore； and propel the boat by means of long poles。
We arrived at Arroyos about four o'clock in the afternoon； after ten hours' hard pull。 The place consists simply of a few houses built on a high bank； and forms a station where canoemen from the mining countries of the interior of Brazil stop to rest themselves before or after surmounting the dreaded falls and rapids of Guaribas； situated a couple of miles further up。 We dined ashore； and in the evening again embarked to visit the falls。 The vigorous and successful way in which our men battled with the terrific currents excited our astonishment。 The bed of the river； here about a mile wide； is strewn with blocks of various sizes； which lie in the most irregular manner； and between them rush currents of more or less rapidity。 With an accurate knowledge of the place and skillful management； the falls can be approached in small canoes by threading the less dangerous channels。 The main fall is about a quarter of a mile wide； we
