the naturalist on the river amazons-第20部分

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ous　channels。　The　main　fall　is　about　a　quarter　of　a　mile　wide；　we　climbed　to　an　elevation　overlooking　it；　and　had　a　good　view　of　the　cataract。　A　body　of　water　rushes　with　terrific　force　down　a　steep　slope；　and　boils　up　with　deafening　roar　around　the　boulders　which　obstruct　its　course。　The　wildness　of　the　whole　scene　was　very　impressive。　As　far　as　the　eye　could　see；　stretched　range　after　range　of　wooded　hills　and　scores　of　miles　of　beautiful　wilderness；　inhabited　only　by　scanty　tribes　of　wild　Indians。　In　the　midst　of　such　a　solitude；　the　roar　of　the　cataract　seemed　fitting　music。

September　17th。We　commenced　early　in　the　morning　our　downward　voyage。　Arroyos　is　situated　in　about　4　10'　S。　lat。；　and　lies；　therefore；　about　130　miles　from　the　mouth　of　the　Tocantins。　Fifteen　miles　above　Guaribas；　another　similar　cataract　called　Tabocas　lies　across　the　river。　We　were　told　that　there　were　in　all　fifteen　of　these　obstructions　to　navigate；　between　Arroyos　and　the　mouth　of　the　Araguaya。　The　worst　was　the　Inferno；　the　Guaribas　standing　second　to　it　in　evil　reputation。　Many　canoes　and　lives　have　been　lost　here；　most　of　the　accidents　arising　through　the　vessels　being　hurled　against　an　enormous　cubical　mass　of　rock　called　the　Guaribinha；　which　we；　on　our　trip　to　the　falls　in　the　small　canoe；　passed　round　with　the　greatest　ease　about　a　quarter　of　a　mile　below　the　main　falls。　This；　however；　was　the　dry　season；　in　the　time　of　full　waters；　a　tremendous　current　sets　against　it。　We　descended　the　river　rapidly；　and　found　it　excellent　fun　shooting　the　rapids。　The　men　seemed　to　delight　in　choosing　the　swiftest　parts　of　the　current；　they　sang　and　yelled　in　the　greatest　excitement；　working　the　paddles　with　great　force；　and　throwing　clouds　of　spray　above　us　as　we　bounded　downwards。　We　stopped　to　rest　at　the　mouth　of　a　rivulet　named　Caganxa。　The　pilot　told　us　that　gold　had　been　found　in　the　bed　of　this　brook；　so　we　had　the　curiosity　to　wade　several　hundred　yards　through　the　icy　cold　waters　in　search　of　it。　Mr。　Leavens　seemed　very　much　interested　in　the　matter。　He　picked　up　all　the　shining　stones　he　could　espy　in　the　pebbly　bottom；　in　hopes　of　finding　diamonds　also。　There　is；　in　fact；　no　reason　why　both　gold　and　diamonds　should　not　be　found　here；　the　hills　being　a　continuation　of　those　of　the　mining　countries　of　interior　Brazil；　and　the　brooks　flowing　through　the　narrow　valleys　between　them。

On　arriving　at　the　place　where　we　had　left　our　canoe；　we　found　poor　Jose　the　mulatto　much　worse；　so　we　hastened　on　to　Juquerapua　to　procure　aid。　An　old　half…caste　woman　took　charge　of　him；　she　made　poultices　of　the　pulp　of　a　wild　fruit；　administered　cooling　draughts　made　from　herbs　which　grew　near　the　house；　and　in　fact；　acted　the　part　of　nurse　admirably。　We　stayed　at　this　place　all　night　and　part　of　the　following　day；　and　I　had　a　stroll　along　a　delightful　pathway；　which　led　over　hill　and　dale；　two　or　three　miles　through　the　forest。　I　was　surprised　at　the　number　and　variety　of　brilliantly…coloured　butterflies；　they　were　all　of　small　size　and　started　forth　from　the　low　bushes；　which　bordered　the　road；　at　every　step　I　took。　I　first　heard　here　the　notes　of　a　trogon；　it　was　seated　alone　on　a　branch；　at　no　great　elevation；　a　beautiful　bird；　with　glossy…green　back　and　rose…coloured　breast　（probably　Trogon　melanurus）。　At　intervals　it　uttered；　in　a　complaining　tone；　a　sound　resembling　the　words　〃qua；　qua。〃　It　is　a　dull　inactive　bird；　and　not　very　ready　to　take　flight　when　approached。　In　this　respect；　however；　the　trogons　are　not　equal　to　the　jacamars；　whose　stupidity　in　remaining　at　their　posts；　seated　on　low　branches　in　the　gloomiest　shades　of　the　forest；　is　somewhat　remarkable　in　a　country　where　all　other　birds　are　exceedingly　wary。　One　species　of　jacamar　was　not　uncommon　here　（Galbula　viridis）；　I　sometimes　saw　two　or　three　together　seated　on　a　slender　branch；　silent　and　motionless　with　the　exception　of　a　slight　movement　of　the　head；　when　an　insect　flew　past　within　a　short　distance；　one　of　the　birds　would　dart　off；　seize　it；　and　return　again　to　its　sitting…place。　The　trogons　are　found　in　the　tropics　of　both　hemispheres。　The　jacamars；　which　are　clothed　in　plumage　of　the　most　beautiful　golden…bronze　and　steel　colours；　are　peculiar　to　tropical　America。

At　night　I　slept　ashore　as　a　change　from　the　confinement　of　the　canoe；　having　obtained　permission　from　Senor　Joaquim　to　sling　my　hammock　under　his　roof。　The　house；　like　all　others　in　these　out…　of…the…way　parts　of　the　country；　was　a　large　open；　palm…thatched　shed；　having　one　end　enclosed　by　means　of　partitions　also　made　of　palm…leaves；　so　as　to　form　a　private　apartment。　Under　the　shed　were　placed　all　the　household　utensils　earthenware　jars；　pots；　and　kettles；　hunting　and　fishing　implements；　paddles；　bows　and　arrows；　harpoons；　and　so　forth。　One　or　two　common　wooden　chests　serve　to　contain　the　holiday　clothing　of　the　females。　There　is　no　other　furniture　except　a　few　stools　and　the　hammock；　which　answers　the　purposes　of　chair　and　sofa。　When　a　visitor　enters；　he　is　asked　to　sit　down　in　a　hammock；　persons　who　are　on　intimate　terms　with　each　other　recline　together　in　the　same　hammock；　one　at　each　end。　This　is　a　very　convenient　arrangement　for　friendly　conversation。　There　are　neither　tables　nor　chairs；　the　cloth　for　meals　is　spread　on　a　mat；　and　the　guests　squat　round　in　any　position　they　choose。　There　is　no　cordiality　of　manners；　but　the　treatment　of　the　guests　shows　a　keen　sense　of　the　duties　of　hospitality　on　the　part　of　the　host。　There　is　a　good　deal　of　formality　in　the　intercourse　of　these　half…wild　mamelucos；　which；　I　believe；　has　been　chiefly　derived　from　their　Indian　forefathers；　although　a　little　of　it　may　have　been　copied　from　the　Portuguese。

A　little　distance　from　the　house　were　the　open　sheds　under　which　the　farinha　for　the　use　of　the　establishment　was　manufactured。　In　the　centre　of　each　shed　stood　the　shallow　pans；　made　of　clay　and　built　over　ovens；　where　the　meal　is　roasted。　A　long　flexible　cylinder　made　of　the　peel　of　a　marantaceous　plant；　plaited　into　the　proper　form；　hung　suspended　from　a　beam；　it　is　in　this　that　the　pulp　of　the　mandioca　is　pressed；　and　from　it　the　juice；　which　is　of　a　highly　poisonous　nature；　although　the　pulp　is　wholesome　food；　runs　into　pans　placed　beneath　to　receive　it。　A　wooden　trough；　such　as　is　used　in　all　these　places　for　receiving　the　pulp　before　the　poisonous　matter　is　extracted；　stood　on　the　ground；　and　from　the　posts　hung　the　long　wicker…work　baskets；　or　aturas；　in　which　the　women　carry　the　roots　from　the　roca　or　clearing；　a　broad　ribbon　made　from　the　inner　bark　of　the　monguba　tree　is　attached　to　the　rims　of　the　baskets；　and　is　passed　round　the　forehead　of　the　carriers；　to　relieve　their　backs　in　supporting　the　heavy　load。　Around　the　shed　were　planted　a　number　of　banana　and　other　fruit　trees；　among　them　were　the　never…　failing　capsicum…pepper　bushes；　brilliant　as　holly…trees　at　Christmas　time　with　their　fiery…red　fruit；　and　lemon　trees；　the　one　supplying　the　pungent；　the　other　the　acid；　for　sauce　to　the　perpetual　meal　of　fish。　There　is　never　in　such　places　any　appearance　of　careful　cultivation　no　garden　or　orchard。　The　useful　trees　are　surrounded　by　weeds　and　bushes；　and　close　behind　rises　the　everlasting　forest。

There　were　other　strangers　under　Senor　Joaquim's　roof　besides　myselfmulattos；　mamelucos；　and　Indian；so　we　formed　altogether　a　large　party。　Houses　occur　at　rare　intervals　in　this　wild　country；　and　hospitality　is　freely　given　to　the　few　passing　travellers。　After　a　frugal　supper；　a　large　wood　fire　was　lighted　in　the　middle　of　the　shed；　and　all　turned　in　to　their　hammocks；　and　began　to　converse。　A　few　of　the　party　soon　dropped　asleep；　others；　however；　kept　awake　until　a　very　late　hour　telling　stories。　Some　related　adventures　which　had　happened　to　them　while　hunting　or　fishing；　others　recounted　myths　about　the　Curupira；　and　other　demons　or　spirits　of　the　forest。　They　were　all　very　appropriate　to　the　time　and　place；　for　now　and　then　a　yell　or　a　shriek　resounded　through　the　gloomy　wilderness　around　the　shed。　One　old　parchment…faced　fellow；　with　a　skin　the　colour　of　mahogany；　seemed　to　be　a　capital　story…teller；　but　I　was　sorry　I　did　not　know　enough　of　the　language　to　follow　him　in　all　the　details　which　he　gave。　Amongst　other　things；　he　related　an　adventure　he　had　once　had　with　a　jaguar。　He　got　up　from　his　hammock　in　the　course　of　the　narrative　to　give　it　the　greater　effect　by　means　of　gestures；　he　seized　a　bow　and　a　large　taquara　arrow　to　show　how　he　slew　the　beast；　imitated　its　hoarse　growl；　and　danced　about　the　fire　like　a　demon。

In　descending　the　river　we　landed　frequently；　and　Mr。　Wallace　and　I　lost　no　chance　of　adding　to　our　collections；　so　that　before　the　end　of　our　journey；　we　had　got　together　a　very　considerable　number　of　birds；　insects；　and　shells；　chiefly　taken；　however；　in　the　low　country。　Leaving　Baiao；　we　took　our　last　farewell　of　the　limpid　waters　and　varied　scenery　of　the　upper　river；　and　found　ourselves　again　in　the　humid　flat　region　of　the　Amazons　valley。　We　sailed　down　this　lower　part　of　the　river　by　a　different　channel　from　the　one　we　travelled　along　in　ascending；　and　frequently　went　ashore　on　the　low　islands　in　mid…river。　As　already　stated；　these　are　covered　with　water　in　the　wet　season；　but　at　this　time；　there　having　been　three　months　of　fine　weather；　they　were　dry　throughout；　and　by　the　subsidence　of　the　waters；　placed　four　or　five　feet　above　the　level　of　the　river。　They　are　covered　with　a　most　luxuriant　forest；　comprising　a　large　number　of　india…rubber　trees。　We　found　several　people　encamped　here；　who　were　engaged　in　collecting　and　preparing　the　rubber；　and　thus　had　an　opportunity　of　observing　the　process。

The　tree　which　yields　this　valuable　sap　is　the　Siphonia　elastica；　a　member　of　the　Euphorbiaceous　order；　it　belongs；　therefore；　to　a　group　of　plants　quite　different　from　that　which　furnishes　the　caoutchouc　of　the　East　Indies　and　Africa。　This　latter　is　the　product　of　different　species　of　Ficus；　and　is　considered；　I　believe；　in　commerce；　an　inferior　article　to　the　India…rubber　of　Para。　The　Siphonia　elastica　grows　only　on　the　lowlands　in　the　Amazons　region；　hitherto；　the　rubber　has　been　collected　chiefly　in　the　islands　and　swampy　parts　of　the　mainland　within　a　dista