the naturalist on the river amazons-第35部分

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tones。

I　obtained　very　few　birds　at　Obydos。　There　was　no　scarcity　of　birds；　but　they　were　mostly　common　Cayenne　species。　In　early　morning；　the　woods　near　my　house　were　quite　animated　with　their　songsan　unusual　thing　in　this　country。　I　heard　here　for　the　first　time　the　pleasing　wild　notes　of　the　Carashue；　a　species　of　thrush；　probably　the　Mimus　lividus　of　ornithologists。　I　found　it　afterwards　to　be　a　common　bird　in　the　scattered　woods　of　the　campo　district　near　Santarem。　It　is　a　much　smaller　and　plainer…　coloured　bird　than　our　thrush；　and　its　song　is　not　so　loud；　varied；　or　so　long　sustained；　but　the　tone　is　of　a　sweet　and　plaintive　quality；　which　harmonises　well　with　the　wild　and　silent　woodlands；　where　alone　it　is　heard　in　the　mornings　and　evenings　of　sultry　tropical　days。　In　course　of　time　the　song　of　this　humble　thrush　stirred　up　pleasing　associations　in　my　mind；　in　the　same　way　as　those　of　its　more　highly　endowed　sisters　formerly　did　at　home。　There　are　several　allied　species　in　Brazil；　in　the　southern　provinces　they　are　called　Sabiahs。　The　Brazilians　are　not　insensible　to　the　charms　of　this　their　best　songster；　for　I　often　heard　some　pretty　verses　in　praise　of　the　Sabiah　sung　by　young　people　to　the　accompaniment　of　the　guitar。

I　found　several　times　the　nest　of　the　Carashue；　which　is　built　of　dried　grass　and　slender　twigs；　and　lined　with　mud；　the　eggs　are　coloured　and　spotted　like　those　of　our　blackbird；　but　they　are　considerably　smaller。　I　was　much　pleased　with　a　brilliant　little　red…headed　mannikin；　which　I　shot　here　（Pipra　cornuta）。　There　were　three　males　seated　on　a　low　branch；　and　hopping　slowly　backwards　and　forwards；　near　to　one　another；　as　though　engaged　in　a　kind　of　dance。　In　the　pleasant　airy　woods　surrounding　the　sandy　shores　of　the　pool　behind　the　town；　the　yellow…bellied　Trogon　（T。　viridis）　was　very　common。　Its　back　is　of　a　brilliant　metallic…　green　colour；　and　the　breast　steel　blue。　The　natives　call　it　the　Suruqua　do　Ygapo；　or　Trogon　of　the　flooded　lands；　in　contradistinction　to　the　red…breasted　species；　which　are　named　Surtiquas　da　terra　firma。　I　often　saw　small　companies　of　half　a　dozen　individuals　quietly　seated　on　the　lower　branches　of　trees。　They　remained　almost　motionless　for　an　hour　or　two　at　a　time；　simply　moving　their　heads；　on　the　watch　for　passing　insects；　or；　as　seemed　more　generally　to　be　the　case；　scanning　the　neighbouring　trees　for　fruit；　which　they　darted　off　now　and　then；　at　long　intervals　to　secure；　returning　always　to　the　same　perch。


CHAPTER　VII

THE　LOWER　AMAZONSOBYDOS　TO　MANAOS；　OR　THE　BARRA　OF　THE　RIO　NEGRO

Departure　from　ObydosRiver　Banks　and　By…channelsCacao　PlantersDaily　Life　on　Board　Our　VesselGreat　StormSand…　Island　and　Its　BirdsHill　of　ParentinsNegro　Trader　and　Mauhes　IndiansVilla　Nova：　Its　Inhabitants；　Forest；　and　Animal　ProductionsCararaucuA　rustic　FestivalLake　of　Cararaucu　MotucaFliesSerpaChristmas　HolidaysRiver　MadeiraA　Mameluco　FarmerMura　IndiansRio　NegroDescription　of　Barra　Descent　to　ParaYellow　Fever

A　Trader　of　Obydos；　named　Penna；　was　proceeding　about　in　a　cuberta　laden　with　merchandise　to　the　Rio　Negro；　intending　to　stop　frequently　on　the　road；　so　I　bargained　with　him　for　a　passage。　He　gave　up　a　part　of　the　toldo；　or　fore…cabin　as　it　may　be　called；　and　here　I　slung　my　hammock　and　arranged　my　boxes　so　as　to　be　able　to　work　as　we　went　along。　The　stoppages　I　thought　would　be　an　advantage；　as　I　could　collect　in　the　woods　whilst　he　traded；　and　thus　acquire　a　knowledge　of　the　productions　of　many　places　on　the　river　which　on　a　direct　voyage　would　be　impossible　to　do。　I　provided　a　stock　of　groceries　for　two　months'　consumption；　and；　after　the　usual　amount　of　unnecessary　fuss　and　delay　on　the　part　of　the　owner；　we　started　on　the　19th　of　November。　Penna　took　his　family　with　him　this　comprised　a　smart；　lively　mameluco　woman；　named　Catarina；　whom　we　called　Senora　Katita；　and　two　children。　The　crew　consisted　of　three　men：　one　a　sturdy　Indian；　another　a　Cafuzo；　godson　of　Penna；　and　the　third；　our　best　hand；　a　steady；　good…natured　mulatto；　named　Joaquim。　My　boy　Luco　was　to　assist　in　rowing　and　so　forth。　Penna　was　a　timid　middle…aged　man；　a　white　with　a　slight　cross　of　Indian；　when　he　was　surly　and　obstinate；　he　used　to　ask　me　to　excuse　him　on　account　of　the　Tapuyo　blood　in　his　veins。　He　tried　to　make　me　as　comfortable　as　the　circumstances　admitted；　and　provided　a　large　stock　of　eatables　and　drinkables；　so　that　altogether　the　voyage　promised　to　be　a　pleasant　one。

On　leaving　the　port　of　Obydos；　we　crossed　over　to　the　right　bank　and　sailed　with　a　light　wind　all　day；　passing　numerous　houses；　each　surrounded　by　its　grove　of　cacao　trees。　On　the　20th　we　made　slow　progress。　After　passing　the　high　land　at　the　mouth　of　the　Trombetas；　the　banks　were　low；　clayey；　or　earthy　on　both　sides。　The　breadth　of　the　river　varies　hereabout　from　two　and　a　half　to　three　miles；　but　neither　coast　is　the　true　terra　firma。　On　the　northern　side　a　by…channel　runs　for　a　long　distance　inland；　communicating　with　the　extensive　lake　of　Faro；　on　the　south；　three　channels　lead　to　the　similar　fresh…water　sea　of　Villa　Franca；　these　are　in　part　arms　of　the　river；　so　that　the　land　they　surround　consists；　properly　speaking；　of　islands。　When　this　description　of　land　is　not　formed　wholly　of　river　deposit；　as　sometimes　happens；　or　is　raised　above　the　level　of　the　highest　floods；　it　is　called　Ygapo　alto；　and　is　distinguished　by　the　natives　from　the　true　islands　of　mid…river；　as　well　as　from　the　terra　firma。　We　landed　at　one　of　the　cacao　plantations。　The　house　was　substantially　built；　the　walls　formed　of　strong　upright　posts；　lathed　across；　plastered　with　mud　and　whitewashed；　and　the　roof　tiled。　The　family　were　mamelucos；　and　seemed　to　be　an　average　sample　of　the　poorer　class　of　cacao　growers。　All　were　loosely　dressed　and　bare…footed。　A　broad　verandah　extended　along　one　side　of　the　house；　the　floor　of　which　was　simply　the　well…　trodden　earth；　and　here　hammocks　were　slung　between　the　bare　upright　supports；　a　large　rush　mat　being　spread　on　the　ground；　upon　which　the　stout　matron…like　mistress；　with　a　tame　parrot　perched　upon　her　shoulder；　sat　sewing　with　two　pretty　little　mulatto　girls。　The　master；　coolly　clad　in　shirt　and　drawers；　the　former　loose　about　the　neck；　lay　in　his　hammock　smoking　a　long　gaudily…painted　wooden　pipe。　The　household　utensils；　earthenware　jars；　water…pots　and　saucepans　lay　at　one　end；　near　which　was　a　wood　fire；　with　the　ever…ready　coffee…pot　simmering　on　the　top　of　a　clay　tripod。　A　large　shed　stood　a　short　distance　off；　embowered　in　a　grove　of　banana；　papaw；　and　mango　trees；　and　under　it　were　the　ovens；　troughs；　sieves；　and　all　other　apparatus　for　the　preparation　of　mandioca。　The　cleared　space　around　the　house　was　only　a　few　yards　in　extent；　beyond　it　lay　the　cacao　plantations；　which　stretched　on　each　side　parallel　to　the　banks　of　the　river。　There　was　a　path　through　the　forest　which　led　to　the　mandioca　fields；　and　several　miles　beyond　to　other　houses　on　the　banks　of　an　interior　channel。　We　were　kindly　received；　as　is　always　the　case　when　a　stranger　visits　these　out…of…the…way　habitations　the　people　being　invariably　civil　and　hospitable。　We　had　a　long　chat；　took　coffee；　and　upon　departing；　one　of　the　daughters　sent　a　basket　full　of　oranges　for　our　use　down　to　the　canoe。

The　cost　of　a　cacao　plantation　in　the　Obydos　district　is　after　the　rate　of　240　reis　or　sixpence　per　tree；　which　is　much　higher　than　at　Cameta；　where　I　believe　the　yield　is　not　so　great。　The　forest　here　is　cleared　before　planting；　and　the　trees　are　grown　in　rows。　The　smaller　cultivators　are　all　very　poor。　Labour　is　scarce；　one　family　generally　manages　its　own　small　plantation　of　10；000　to　15；000　trees；　but　at　the　harvest　time　neighbours　assist　each　other。　It　appeared　to　me　to　be　an　easy；　pleasant　life；　the　work　is　all　done　under　shade；　and　occupies　only　a　few　weeks　in　the　year。　The　incorrigible　nonchalance　and　laziness　of　the　people　alone　prevent　them　from　surrounding　themselves　with　all　the　luxuries　of　a　tropical　country。　They　might　plant　orchards　of　the　choicest　fruit　trees　around　their　houses；　grow　Indian　corn；　and　rear　cattle　and　hogs；　as　intelligent　settlers　from　Europe　would　certainly　do；　instead　of　indolently　relying　solely　on　the　produce　of　their　small　plantations；　and　living　on　a　meagre　diet　of　fish　and　farinha。　In　preparing　the　cacao　they　have　not　devised　any　means　of　separating　the　seeds　well　from　the　pulp；　or　drying　it　in　a　systematic　way；　the　consequence　is　that；　although　naturally　of　good　quality；　it　molds　before　reaching　the　merchants'　stores；　and　does　not　fetch　more　than　half　the　price　of　the　same　article　grown　in　other　parts　of　tropical　America。　The　Amazons　region　is　the　original　home　of　the　principal　species　of　chocolate　tree；　the　Theobroma　cacao；　and　it　grows　in　abundance　in　the　forests　of　the　upper　river。　The　cultivated　crop　appears　to　be　a　precarious　one；　little　or　no　care；　however；　is　bestowed　on　the　trees；　and　even　weeding　is　done　very　inefficiently。　The　plantations　are　generally　old；　and　have　been　made　on　the　low　ground　near　the　river；　which　renders　them　liable　to　inundation　when　this　rises　a　few　inches　more　than　the　average。　There　is　plenty　of　higher　land　quite　suitable　to　the　tree；　but　it　is　uncleared；　and　the　want　of　labour　and　enterprise　prevents　the　establishment　of　new　plantations。

We　passed　the　last　houses　in　the　Obydos　district　on　the　20th；　and　the　river　scenery　then　resumed　its　usual　wild　and　solitary　character；　which　the　scattered　human　habitations　relieved；　although　in　a　small　degree。　We　soon　fell　into　a　regular　mode　of　life　on　board　our　little　ark。　Penna　would　not　travel　by　night；　indeed；　our　small　crew；　wearied　by　the　day's　labour；　required　rest；　and　we　very　rarely　had　wind　in　the　night。　We　used　to　moor　the　vessel　to　a　tree；　giving　out　plenty　of　cable；　so　as　to　sleep　at　a　distance　from　the　banks　and　free　of　mosquitoes；　which　although　swarming　in　the　forest；　rarely　came　many　yards　out　into　the　river　at　this　season　of　the　year。　The　strong　current　at　a　distance　of　thirty　or　forty　yards　from　the　coast　steadied　the　cuberta　head　to　stream；　and　kept　us　from　drifting　ashore。　We　all　slept　in　the　open　air；　as　the　heat　of　the　cabins　was　stifling　in　the　early　part　of　the　night。　Penna；　Senhora　Katita；　and　I　slung