the naturalist on the river amazons-第52部分
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river； at a place where it was probably 300 yards broad。 I believe it is not generally known that this animal takes to the water。 Our men caught the beast； cooked； and ate him。
In returning from these trips we were sometimes benighted on the campos。 We did not care for this on moonlit nights； when there was no danger of losing the path。 The great heat felt in the middle hours of the day is much mitigated by four o'clock in the afternoon； a few birds then make their appearance； small flocks of ground doves run about the stony hillocks parrots pass over and sometimes settle in the ilhas； pretty little finches of several species； especially one kind； streaked with olive…brown and yellow； and somewhat resembling our yellowhammer； but I believe not belonging to the same genus； hop about the grass； enlivening the place with a few musical notes。 The Carashue （Mimus） also then resumes its mellow； blackbird…like song； and two or three species of hummingbird； none of which； however； are peculiar to the district； flit about from tree to tree。 On the other hand； the little blue and yellow…striped lizards； which abound amongst the herbage during the scorching heats of midday； retreat towards this hour to their hiding…places； together with the day…flying insects and the numerous campo butterflies。 Some of these latter resemble greatly our English species found in heathy places； namely； a fritillary； Argynnis （Euptoieta） Hegesia； and two smaller kinds； which are deceptively like the little Nemeobius Lucina。 After sunset； the air becomes delightfully cool and fragrant with the aroma of fruits and flowers。 The nocturnal animals then come forth。 A monstrous hairy spider； five inches in expanse； of a brown colour with yellowish lines along its stout legswhich is very common here； inhabiting broad tubular galleries smoothly lined with silken webmay be then caught on the watch at the mouth of its burrow。 It is only seen at night； and I think does not wander far from its den； the gallery is about two inches in diameter and runs in a slanting direction； about two feet from the surface of the soil。
As soon as it is night； swarms of goatsuckers suddenly make their appearance； wheeling about in a noiseless； ghostly manner； in chase of night…flying insects。 They sometimes descend and settle on a low branch； or even on the pathway close to where one is walking； and then squatting down on their heels； are difficult to distinguish from the surrounding soil。 One kind has a long forked tail。 In the daytime they are concealed in the wooded ilhas； where I very often saw them crouched and sleeping on the ground in the dense shade。 They make no nest； but lay their eggs on the bare ground。 Their breeding time is in the rainy season； and fresh eggs are found from December to June。 Later in the evening； the singular notes of the goatsuckers are heard； one species crying Quao； Quao； another Chuck…cococao； and these are repeated at intervals far into the night in the most monotonous manner。 A great number of toads are seen on the bare sandy pathways soon after sunset。 One of them was quite a colossus； about seven inches in length and three in height。 This big fellow would never move out of the way until we were close to him。 If we jerked him out of the path with a stick； he would slowly recover himself； and then turn round to have a good impudent stare。 I have counted as many as thirty of these monsters within a distance of half a mile。
CHAPTER IX
VOYAGE UP THE TAPAJOS
Preparations for Voyage…First Day's SailLoss of BoatAltar de ChaoModes of Obtaining FishDifficulties with CrewArrival at AveyrosExcursions in the NeighbourhoodWhite Cebus； and Habits and Dispositions of Cebi MonkeysTame ParrotMissionary SettlementEntering the River CupariAdventure with Anaconda Smoke…dried MonkeyBoa…constrictorVillage of Mundurucu Indians； and Incursion of a Wild TribeFalls of the Cupari Hyacinthine MacawRe…emerge into the broad TapajosDescent of River to Santarem
June； 1852I will now proceed to relate the incidents of my principal excursion up the Tapajos； which I began to prepare for； after residing about six months at Santarem。
I was obliged； this time； to travel in a vessel of my own； partly because trading canoes large enough to accommodate a Naturalist very seldom pass between Santarem and the thinly…peopled settlements on the river； and partly because I wished to explore districts at my ease； far out of the ordinary track of traders。 I soon found a suitable canoe； a two…masted cuberta； of about six tons' burthen； strongly built of Itauba or stonewood； a timber of which all the best vessels in the Amazons country are constructed； and said to be more durable than teak。 This I hired of a merchant at the cheap rate of 500 reis； or about one shilling and twopence per day。 I fitted up the cabin； which； as usual in canoes of this class； was a square structure with its floor above the waterline； as my sleeping and working apartment。 My chests； filled with store…boxes and trays for specimens； were arranged on each side； and above them were shelves and pegs to hold my little stock of useful books； guns； and game bags； boards and materials for skinning and preserving animals； botanical press and papers； drying cages for insects。 and birds and so forth。 A rush mat was spread on the floor； and my rolled…up hammock； to be used only when sleeping ashore； served for a pillow。 The arched covering over the hold in the fore part of the vessel contained； besides a sleeping place for the crew； my heavy chests； stock of salt provisions and groceries； and an assortment of goods wherewith to pay my way amongst the half…civilised or savage inhabitants of the interior。 The goods consisted of cashaca； powder and shot； a few pieces of coarse； checked cotton cloth and prints； fish…hooks； axes； large knives； harpoons； arrowheads； looking…glasses； beads； and other small wares。 Jose and myself were busy for many days arranging these matters。 We had to salt the meat and grind a supply of coffee ourselves。 Cooking utensils； crockery； water…jars； a set of useful carpenter's tools； and many other things had to be provided。 We put all the groceries and other perishable articles in tin canisters and boxes； having found that this was the only way of preserving them from dampness and insects in this climate。 When all was done； our canoe looked like a little floating workshop。
I could get little information about the river； except vague accounts of the difficulty of the navigation； and the famito or hunger which reigned on its banks。 As I have before mentioned； it is about 1000 miles in length； and flows from south to north； in magnitude it stands the sixth amongst the tributaries of the Amazons。 It is navigable； however； by sailing vessels only for about 160 miles above Santarem。 The hiring of men to navigate the vessel was our greatest trouble。 Jose was to be my helmsman； and we thought three other hands would be the fewest with which we could venture。 But all our endeavours to procure these were fruitless。 Santarem is worse provided with Indian canoemen than any other town on the river。 I found on applying to the tradesmen to whom I had brought letters of introduction and to the Brazilian authorities； that almost any favour would be sooner granted than the loan of hands。 A stranger； however； is obliged to depend on them； for it is impossible to find an Indian or half…caste whom someone or other of the head…men do not claim as owing him money or labour。 I was afraid at one time I should have been forced to abandon my project on this account。 At length； after many rebuffs and disappointments； Jose contrived to engage one man； a mulatto； named Pinto； a native of the mining country of Interior Brazil； who knew the river well； and with these two I resolved to start； hoping to meet with others at the first village on the road。
We left Santarem on the 8th of June。 The waters were then at their highest point； and my canoe had been anchored close to the back door of our house。 The morning was cool and a brisk wind blew； with which we sped rapidly past the white…washed houses and thatched Indian huts of the suburbs。 The charming little bay of Mapiri was soon left behind； we then doubled Point Maria Josepha； a headland formed of high cliffs of Tabatinga clay； capped with forest。 This forms the limit of the river view from Santarem； and here we had our last glimpse； at a distance of seven or eight miles； of the city； a bright line of tiny white buildings resting on the dark water。 A stretch of wild； rocky； uninhabited coast was before us； and we were fairly within the Tapajos。
Our course lay due west for about twenty miles。 The wind increased as we neared Point Cururu； where the river bends from its northern course。 A vast expanse of water here stretches to the west and south； and the waves； with a strong breeze； run very high。 As we were doubling the Point； the cable which held our montaria in tow astern； parted； and in endeavouring to recover the boat； without which we knew it would be difficult to get ashore on many parts of the coast； we were very near capsizing。 We tried to tack down the river； a vain attempt with a strong breeze and no current。 Our ropes snapped； the sails flew to rags； and the vessel； which we now found was deficient in ballast； heeled over frightfully。 Contrary to Jose's advice； I ran the cuberta into a little bay； thinking to cast anchor there and wait for the boat coming up with the wind； but the anchor dragged on the smooth sandy bottom； and the vessel went broadside on to the rocky beach。 With a little dexterous management； but not until after we had sustained some severe bumps； we managed to get out of this difficulty； clearing the rocky point at a close shave with our jib…sail。 Soon after； we drifted into the smooth water of a sheltered bay which leads to the charmingly situated village of Altar do Chao； and we were obliged to give up our attempt to recover the montaria。
The little settlement； Altar de Chao （altar of the ground； or Earth altar）； owes its singular name to the existence at the entrance to the harbour of one of those strange flat…topped hills which are so common in this part of the Amazons country； shaped like the high altar in Roman Catholic churches。 It is an is
