the naturalist on the river amazons-第66部分

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to　exist；　it　is　impossible　to　solve　some　of　the　most　difficult　problems　connected　with　the　distribution　of　plants　and　animals。　Some　species；　with　most　limited　powers　of　locomotion；　are　found　in　opposite　parts　of　the　earth；　without　existing　in　the　intermediate　regions；　unless　it　can　be　shown　that　these　may　have　migrated　or　been　accidentally　transported　from　one　point　to　the　other；　we　shall　have　to　come　to　the　strange　conclusion　that　the　same　species　had　been　created　in　two　separate　districts。

Canoemen　on　the　Upper　Amazons　live　in　constant　dread　of　the　〃terras　cahidas；〃　or　landslips；　which　occasionally　take　place　along　the　steep　earthy　banks；　especially　when　the　waters　are　rising。　Large　vessels　are　sometimes　overwhelmed　by　these　avalanches　of　earth　and　trees。　I　should　have　thought　the　accounts　of　them　exaggerated　if　I　had　not　had　an　opportunity　during　this　voyage　of　seeing　one　on　a　large　scale。　One　morning　I　was　awakened　before　sunrise　by　an　unusual　sound　resembling　the　roar　of　artillery。　I　was　lying　alone　on　the　top　of　the　cabin；　it　was　very　dark；　and　all　my　companions　were　asleep；　so　I　lay　listening。　The　sounds　came　from　a　considerable　distance；　and　the　crash　which　had　aroused　me　was　succeeded　by　others　much　less　formidable。　The　first　explanation　which　occurred　to　me　was　that　it　was　an　earthquake；　for；　although　the　night　was　breathlessly　calm；　the　broad　river　was　much　agitated　and　the　vessel　rolled　heavily。　Soon　after；　another　loud　explosion　took　place；　apparently　much　nearer　than　the　former　one；　then　followed　others。　The　thundering　peal　rolled　backwards　and　forwards；　now　seeming　close　at　hand；　now　far　offthe　sudden　crashes　being　often　succeeded　by　a　pause　or　a　long；continued　dull　rumbling。　At　the　second　explosion；　Vicente；　who　lay　snoring　by　the　helm；　awoke　and　told　me　it　was　a　〃terra　cahida〃；　but　I　could　scarcely　believe　him。　The　day　dawned　after　the　uproar　had　lasted　about　an　hour；　and　we　then　saw　the　work　of　destruction　going　forward　on　the　other　side　of　the　river；　about　three　miles　off。　Large　masses　of　forest；　including　trees　of　colossal　size；　probably　200　feet　in　height；　were　rocking　to　and　fro；　and　falling　headlong　one　after　the　other　into　the　water。　After　each　avalanche　the　wave　which　it　caused　returned　on　the　crumbly　bank　with　tremendous　force；　and　caused　the　fall　of　other　masses　by　undermining　them。　The　line　of　coast　over　which　the　landslip　extended；　was　a　mile　or　two　in　length；　the　end　of　it；　however；　was　hidden　from　our　view　by　an　intervening　island。　It　was　a　grand　sight；　each　downfall　created　a　cloud　of　spray；　the　concussion　in　one　place　causing　other　masses　to　give　way　a　long　distance　from　it；　and　thus　the　crashes　continued；　swaying　to　and　fro；　with　little　prospect　of　a　termination。　When　we　glided　out　of　sight；　two　hours　after　sunrise；　the　destruction　was　still　going　on。

On　the　22nd　we　threaded　the　Parana…mirim　of　Arauana…i；　one　of　the　numerous　narrow　bywaters　which　lie　conveniently　for　canoes　away　from　the　main　river；　and　often　save　a　considerable　circuit　around　a　promontory　or　island。　We　rowed　for　half　a　mile　through　a　magnificent　bed　of　Victoria　waterlilies；　the　flower…buds　of　which　were　just　beginning　to　expand。　Beyond　the　mouth　of　the　Catua；　a　channel　leading　to　one　of　the　great　lakes　so　numerous　in　the　plains　of　the　Amazons；　which　we　passed　on　the　25th；　the　river　appeared　greatly　increased　in　breadth。　We　travelled　for　three　days　along　a　broad　reach　which　both　up　and　down　river　presented　a　blank　horizon　of　water　and　sky　this　clear　view　was　owing　to　the　absence　of　islands；　but　it　renewed　one's　impressions　of　the　magnitude　of　the　stream；　which　here；　1200　miles　from　its　mouth；　showed　so　little　diminution　of　width。　Further　westward；　a　series　of　large　islands　commences；　which　divides　the　river　into　two　and　sometimes　three　channels；　each　about　a　mile　in　breadth。　We　kept　to　the　southernmost　of　these；　travelling　all　day　on　the　30th　of　April　along　a　high　and　rather　sloping　bank。

In　the　evening　we　arrived　at　a　narrow　opening；　which　would　be　taken　by　a　stranger　navigating　the　main　channel　for　the　cutlet　of　some　insignificant　stream　it　was　the　mouth　of　the　Teffe；　on　whose　banks　Ega　is　situated；　the　termination　of　our　voyage。　After　having　struggled　for　thirty…five　days　with　the　muddy　currents　and　insect　pests　of　the　Solimoens；　it　was　unspeakably　refreshing　to　find　oneself　again　in　a　dark…water　river；　smooth　as　a　lake；　and　free　from　Pium　and　Motuca。　The　rounded　outline；　small　foliage；　and　sombre…green　of　the　woods；　which　seemed　to　rest　on　the　glassy　waters；　made　a　pleasant　contrast　to　the　tumultuous　piles　of　rank；　glaring；　light…green　vegetation；　and　torn；　timber…strewn　banks　to　which　we　had　been　so　long　accustomed　on　the　main　river。　The　men　rowed　lazily　until　nightfall；　when；　having　done　a　laborious　day's　work；　they　discontinued　and　went　to　sleep；　intending　to　make　for　Ega　in　the　morning。　It　was　not　thought　worthwhile　to　secure　the　vessel　to　the　trees　or　cast　anchor；　as　there　was　no　current。　I　sat　up　for　two　or　three　hours　after　my　companions　had　gone　to　rest；　enjoying　the　solemn　calm　of　the　night。　Not　a　breath　of　air　stirred；　the　sky　was　of　a　deep　blue；　and　the　stars　seemed　to　stand　forth　in　sharp　relief；　there　was　no　sound　of　life　in　the　woods；　except　the　occasional　melancholy　note　of　some　nocturnal　bird。　I　reflected　on　my　own　wandering　life；　I　had　now　reached　the　end　of　the　third　stage　of　my　journey；　and　was　now　more　than　half　way　across　the　continent。　It　was　necessary　for　me；　on　many　accounts；　to　find　a　rich　locality　for　Natural　History　explorations；　and　settle　myself　in　it　for　some　months　or　years。　Would　the　neighbourhood　of　Ega　turn　out　to　be　suitable；　and　should　I；　a　solitary　stranger　on　a　strange　errand；　find　a　welcome　amongst　its　people？

Our　Indians　resumed　their　oars　at　sunrise　the　next　morning　（May　1st）；　and　after　an　hour's　rowing　along　the　narrow　channel；　which　varies　in　breadth　from　100　to　500　yards；　we　doubled　a　low　wooded　point；　and　emerged　suddenly　on　the　so…called　Lake　of　Ega　a　magnificent　sheet　of　water；　five　miles　broad；　the　expanded　portion　of　the　Teffe。　It　is　quite　clear　of　islands；　and　curves　away　to　the　west　and　south；　so　that　its　full　extent　is　not　visible　from　this　side。　To　the　left；　on　a　gentle　grassy　slope　at　the　point　of　junction　of　a　broad　tributary　with　the　Teffe；　lay　the　little　settlement　a　cluster　of　a　hundred　or　so　of　palm…　thatched　cottages　and　white…washed　red…tiled　houses；　each　with　its　neatly…enclosed　orchard　of　orange；　lemon；　banana；　and　guava　trees。　Groups　of　palms；　with　their　tall　slender　shafts　and　feathery　crowns；　overtopped　the　buildings　and　lower　trees。　A　broad　grass…carpeted　street　led　from　the　narrow　strip　of　white　sandy　beach　to　the　rudely…built　barn…like　church；　with　its　wooden　crucifix　on　the　green　before　it；　in　the　centre　of　the　town。　Cattle　were　grazing　before　the　houses；　and　a　number　of　dark…　skinned　natives　were　taking　their　morning　bath　amongst　the　canoes　of　various　sizes；　which　were　anchored　or　moored　to　stakes　in　the　port。　We　let　off　rockets　and　fired　salutes；　according　to　custom；　in　token　of　our　safe　arrival；　and　shortly　afterwards　went　ashore。

A　few　days'　experience　of　the　people　and　the　forests　of　the　vicinity　showed　me　that　I　might　lay　myself　out　for　a　long；　pleasant；　and　busy　residence　at　this　place。　An　idea　of　the　kind　of　people　I　had　fallen　amongst　may　be　conveyed　by　an　account　of　my　earliest　acquaintances　in　the　place。　On　landing；　the　owner　of　the　canoe　killed　an　ox　in　honour　of　our　arrival；　and　the　next　day　took　me　round　the　town　to　introduce　me　to　the　principal　residents。　We　first　went　to　the　Delegado　of　police；　Senor　Antonio　Cardozo；　of　whom　I　shall　have　to　make　frequent　mention　by…and…by。　He　was　a　stout；　broad…featured　man；　ranking　as　a　white；　but　having　a　tinge　of　negro　blood；　his　complexion；　however；　was　ruddy；　and　scarcely　betrayed　the　mixture。　He　received　us　in　a　very　cordial；　winning　manner；　I　had　afterwards　occasion　to　be　astonished　at　the　boundless　good　nature　of　this　excellent　fellow；　whose　greatest　pleasure　seemed　to　be　to　make　sacrifices　for　his　friends。　He　was　a　Paraense；　and　came　to　Ega　originally　as　a　trader；　but；　not　succeeding　in　this；　he　turned　planter　on　a　small　scale　and　collector　of　the　natural　commodities　of　the　country；　employing　half…a…dozen　Indians　in　the　business。

We　then　visited　the　military　commandant；　an　officer　in　the　Brazilian　army；　named　Praia。　He　was　breakfasting　with　the　Vicar；　and　we　found　the　two　in　dishabille　（morning…gown；　loose　round　the　neck；　and　slippers）；　seated　at　a　rude　wooden　table　in　an　open　mud…floored　verandah；　at　the　back　of　the　house。　Commander　Praia　was　a　little　curly…headed　man　（also　somewhat　of　a　mulatto）；　always　merry　and　fond　of　practical　jokes。　His　wife；　Donna　Anna；　a　dressy　dame　from　Santarem；　was　the　leader　of　fashion　in　the　settlement。　The　Vicar；　Father　Luiz　Gonsalvo　Gomez；　was　a　nearly　pureblood　Indian；　a　native　of　one　of　the　neighbouring　villages；　but　educated　at　Maranham；　a　city　on　the　Atlantic　seaboard。　I　afterwards　saw　a　good　deal　of　him；　as　he　was　an　agreeable；　sociable　fellow；　fond　of　reading　and　hearing　about　foreign　countries；　and　quite　free　from　the　prejudices　which　might　be　expected　in　a　man　of　his　profession。　I　found　him；　moreover；　a　thoroughly　upright；　sincere；　and　virtuous　man。　He　supported　his　aged　mother　and　unmarried　sisters　in　a　very　creditable　way　out　of　his　small　salary　and　emoluments。　It　is　a　pleasure　to　be　able　to　speak　in　these　terms　of　a　Brazilian　priest；　for　the　opportunity　occurs　rarely　enough。

Leaving　these　agreeable　new　acquaintances　to　finish　their　breakfast；　we　next　called　on　the　Director　of　the　Indians　of　the　Japura；　Senor　Jose　Chrysostomo　Monteiro；　a　thin　wiry　Mameluco；　the　most　enterprising　person　in　the　settlement。　Each　of　the　neighbouring　rivers　with　its　numerous　wild　tribes　is　under　the　control　of　a　Director；　who　is　nominated　by　the　Imperial　Government。　There　are　now　no　missions　in　the　regions　of　the　Upper　Amazons；　the　〃gentios〃　（heathens；　or　unbaptised　Indians）　being　considered　under　the　management　and　protection　of　these　despots；　who；　like　the　captains　of　Trabalhadores；　before　mentioned；　use　the　natives　for　their　own　private　ends。　Senor　Chrysostomo　had；　at　this　time；　200　of　the　Japura　Indians　in　his　employ。　He　was　half　Indian　himself；　but　was　a　far　worse　m