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the overwrought conceits; and allegorical groups; which abound on

modern monuments。 I have been struck; also; with the superiority of

many of the old sepulchral inscriptions。 There was a noble way; in

former times; of saying things simply; and yet saying them proudly;

and I do not know an epitaph that breathes a loftier consciousness

of family worth and honorable lineage; than one which affirms; of a

noble house; that 〃all the brothers were brave; and all the sisters

virtuous。〃

  In the opposite transept to Poet's Corner stands a monument which is

among the most renowned achievements of modern art; but which to me

appears horrible rather than sublime。 It is the tomb of Mrs。

Nightingale; by Roubillac。 The bottom of the monument is represented

as throwing open its marble doors; and a sheeted skeleton is

starting forth。 The shroud is falling from his fleshless frame as he

launches his dart at his victim。 She is sinking into her affrighted

husband's arms; who strives; with vain and frantic effort; to avert

the blow。 The whole is executed with terrible truth and spirit; we

almost fancy we hear the gibbering yell of triumph bursting from the

distended jaws of the spectre。… But why should we thus seek to

clothe death with unnecessary terrors; and to spread horrors round the

tomb of those we love? The grave should be surrounded by every thing

that might inspire tenderness and veneration for the dead; or that

might win the living to virtue。 It is the place; not of disgust and

dismay; but of sorrow and meditation。

  While wandering about these gloomy vaults and silent aisles;

studying the records of the dead; the sound of busy existence from

without occasionally reaches the ear;… the rumbling of the passing

equipage; the murmur of the multitude; or perhaps the light laugh of

pleasure。 The contrast is striking with the deathlike repose around:

and it has a strange effect upon the feelings; thus to hear the surges

of active life hurrying along; and beating against the very walls of

the sepulchre。

  I continued in this way to move from tomb to tomb; and from chapel

to chapel。 The day was gradually wearing away; the distant tread of

loiterers about the abbey grew less and less frequent; the

sweet…tongued bell was summoning to evening prayers; and I saw at a

distance the choristers; in their white surplices; crossing the

aisle and entering the choir。 I stood before the entrance to Henry the

Seventh's chapel。 A flight of steps lead up to it; through a deep

and gloomy; but magnificent arch。 Great gates of brass; richly and

delicately wrought; turn heavily upon their hinges; as if proudly

reluctant to admit the feet of common mortals into this most

gorgeous of sepulchres。

  On entering; the eye is astonished by the pomp of architecture;

and the elaborate beauty of sculptured detail。 The very walls are

wrought into universal ornament; incrusted with tracery; and scooped

into niches; crowded with the statues of saints and martyrs。 Stone

seems; by the cunning labor of the chisel; to have been robbed of

its weight and density; suspended aloft; as if by magic; and the

fretted roof achieved with the wonderful minuteness and airy

security of a cobweb。

  Along the sides of the chapel are the lofty stalls of the Knights of

the Bath; richly carved of oak; though with the grotesque

decorations of Gothic architecture。 On the pinnacles of the stalls are

affixed the helmets and crests of the knights; with their scarfs and

swords; and above them are suspended their banners; emblazoned with

armorial bearings; and contrasting the splendor of gold and purple and

crimson; with the cold gray fretwork of the roof。 In the midst of this

grand mausoleum stands the sepulchre of its founder;… his effigy; with

that of his queen; extended on a sumptuous tomb; and the whole

surrounded by a superbly…wrought brazen railing。

  There is a sad dreariness in this magnificence; this strange mixture

of tombs and trophies; these emblems of living and aspiring

ambition; close beside mementos which show the dust and oblivion in

which all must sooner or later terminate。 Nothing impresses the mind

with a deeper feeling of loneliness; than to tread the silent and

deserted scene of former throng and pageant。 On looking round on the

vacant stalls of the knights and their esquires; and on the rows of

dusty but gorgeous banners that were once borne before them; my

imagination conjured up the scene when this hall was bright with the

valor and beauty of the land; glittering with the splendor of jewelled

rank and military array; alive with the tread of many feet and the hum

of an admiring multitude。 All had passed away; the silence of death

had settled again upon the place; interrupted only by the casual

chirping of birds; which had found their way into the chapel; and

built their nests among its friezes and pendants… sure sign of

solitariness and desertion。

  When I read the names inscribed on the banners; they were those of

men scattered far and wide about the world; some tossing upon

distant seas; some under arms in distant lands; some mingling in the

busy intrigues of courts and cabinets; all seeking to deserve one more

distinction in this mansion of shadowy honors: the melancholy reward

of a monument。

  Two small aisles on each side of this chapel present a touching

instance of the equality of the grave; which brings down the oppressor

to a level with the oppressed; and mingles the dust of the bitterest

enemies together。 In one is the sepulchre of the haughty Elizabeth; in

the other is that of her victim; the lovely and unfortunate Mary。

Not an hour in the day but some ejaculation of pity is uttered over

the fate of the latter; mingled with indignation at her oppressor。 The

walls of Elizabeth's sepulchre continually echo with the sighs of

sympathy heaved at the grave of her rival。

  A peculiar melancholy reigns over the aisle where Mary lies

buried。 The light struggles dimly through windows darkened by dust。

The greater part of the place is in deep shadow; and the walls are

stained and tinted by time and weather。 A marble figure of Mary is

stretched upon the tomb; round which is an iron railing; much

corroded; bearing her national emblem… the thistle。 I was weary with

wandering; and sat down to rest myself by the monument; revolving in

my mind the chequered and disastrous story of poor Mary。

  The sound of casual footsteps had ceased from the abbey。 I could

only hear; now and then; the distant voice of the priest repeating the

evening service; and the faint responses of the choir; these paused

for a time; and all was hushed。 The stillness; the desertion and

obscurity that were gradually prevailing around; gave a deeper and

more solemn interest to the place:



           For in the silent grave no conversation;

           No joyful tread of friends; no voice of lovers;

           No careful father's counsel… nothing's heard;

           For nothing is; but all oblivion;

           Dust; and an endless darkness。



  Suddenly the notes of the deep…laboring organ burst upon the ear;

falling with doubled and redoubled intensity; and rolling; as it were;

huge billows of sound。 How well do their volume and grandeur accord

with this mighty building! With what pomp do they swell through its

vast vaults; and breathe their awful harmony through these caves of

death; and make the silent sepulchre vocal!… And now they rise in

triumph and acclamation; heaving higher and higher their accordant

notes; and piling sound on sound。… And now they pause; and the soft

voices of the choir break out into sweet gushes of melody; they soar

aloft; and warble along the roof; and seem to play about these lofty

vaults like the pure airs of heaven。 Again the pealing organ heaves

its thrilling thunders; compressing air into music; and rolling it

forth upon the soul。 What long…drawn cadences! What solemn sweeping

concords! It grows more and more dense and powerful… it fills the vast

pile; and seems to jar the very walls… the ear is stunned… the

senses are overwhelmed。 And now it is winding up in full jubilee… it

is rising from the earth to heaven… the very soul seems rapt away

and floated upwards on this swelling tide of harmony!

  I sat for some time lost in that kind of reverie which a strain of

music is apt sometimes to inspire: the shadows of evening were

gradually thickening round me; the monuments began to cast deeper

and deeper gloom; and the distant clock again gave token of the slowly

waning day。

  I rose and prepared to leave the abbey。 As I descended the flight of

steps which lead into the body of the building; my eye was caught by

the shrine of Edward the Confessor; and I ascended the small staircase

that conducts to it; to take from thence a general survey of this

wilderness of tombs。 The shrine is elevated upon a kind of platform;

and close around it are the sepulchres of various kings and queens。

From this eminence the eye looks down between pillars and funeral

trophies to the chapels and chambers below; crowded with tombs;

where warriors; prelates; courtiers and statesmen; lie mouldering in

their 〃beds of darkness。〃 Close by me stood the great chair of

coronation; rudely carved of oak; in the barbarous taste of a remote

and Gothic age。 The scene seemed almost as if contrived; with

theatrical artifice; to produce an effect upon the beholder。 Here

was a type of the beginning and the end of human pomp and power;

here it was literally but a step from the throne to the sepulchre。

Would not one think that these incongruous mementos had been

gathered together as a lesson to living greatness?… to show it; even

in the moment of its proudest exaltation; the neglect and dishonor

to which it must soon arrive; how soon that crown which encircles

its brow must pass away; and it must lie down in the dust and

disgraces of the tomb; and be trampled upon by the feet of the meanest

of the multitude。 For; strange to tell; even the grave is here no

longer a sanctuary。 There is a shocking levity in some natures;

which leads them to sp

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