men of invention and industry-第21部分
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locomotives; ironclads propelled by the screw; and iron and steel
bridges miles in length。
The silk manufacture; though originating in the secretion of a
tiny caterpillar; is perhaps equally extraordinary。 Hundreds of
thousands of pounds weight of this slender thread; no thicker
than the filaments spun by a spider; give employment to millions
of workers throughout the world。 Silk; and the many textures
wrought from this beautiful material; had long been known in the
East; but the period cannot be fixed when man first divested the
chrysalis of its dwelling; and discovered that the little yellow
ball which adhered to the leaf of the mulberry tree; could be
evolved into a slender filament; from which tissues of endless
variety and beauty could be made。 The Chinese were doubtless
among the first who used the thread spun by the silkworm for the
purposes of clothing。 The manufacture went westward from China
to India and Persia; and from thence to Europe。 Alexander the
Great brought home with him a store of rich silks from Persia
Aristotle and Pliny give descriptions of the industrious little
worm and its productions。 Virgil is the first of the Roman
writers who alludes to the production of silk in China; and the
terms he employs show how little was then known about the
article。 It was introduced at Rome about the time of Julius
Caesar; who displayed a profusion of silks in some of his
magnificent theatrical spectacles。 Silk was so valuable that it
was then sold for an equal weight of gold。 Indeed; a law was
passed that no man should disgrace himself by wearing a silken
garment。 The Emperor Heliogabalus despised the law; and wore a
dress composed wholly of silk。 The example thus set was followed
by wealthy citizens。 A demand for silk from the East soon became
general。
It was not until about the middle of the sixth century that two
Persian monks; who had long resided in China; and made themselves
acquainted with the mode of rearing the silkworm; succeeded in
carrying the eggs of the insect to Constantinople。 Under their
direction they were hatched and fed。 A sufficient number of
butterflies were saved to propagate the race; and mulberry trees
were planted to afford nourishment to the rising generations of
caterpillars。 Thus the industry was propagated。 It spread into
the Italian peninsula; and eventually manufactures of silk
velvet; damask; and satin became established in Venice; Milan;
Florence; Lucca; and other places。
Indeed; for several centuries the manufacture of silk in Europe
was for the most part confined to Italy。 The rearing of
silkworms was of great importance in Modena; and yielded a
considerable revenue to the State。 The silk produced there was
esteemed the best in Lombardy。 Until the beginning of the
sixteenth century; Bologna was the only city which possessed
proper 〃throwing〃 mills; or the machinery requisite for twisting
and preparing silken fibres for the weaver。 Thousands of people
were employed at Florence and Genoa about the same time in the
silk manufacture。 And at Venice it was held in such high esteem;
that the business of a silk factory was considered a noble
employment。'1'
It was long before the use of silk became general in England。
〃Silk;〃 said an old writer; 〃does not immediately come hither
from the Worm that spins and makes it; but passes many a Climate;
travels many a Desert; employs many a Hand; loads many a Camel;
and freights many a Ship before it arrives here; and when at last
it comes; it is in return for other manufactures; or in exchange
for our money。〃'2' It is said that the first pair of silk
stockings was brought into England from Spain; and presented to
Henry VIII。 He had before worn hose of cloth。 In the third year
of Queen Elizabeth's reign; her tiring woman; Mrs。 Montagu;
presented her with a pair of black silk stockings as a New Year's
gift; whereupon her Majesty asked if she could have any more; in
which case she would wear no more cloth stockings。 When James
VI。 of Scotland received the ambassadors sent to congratulate him
upon his accession to the throne of Great Britain; he asked one
of his lords to lend him his pair of silken hose; that he 〃might
not appear a scrub before strangers。〃 From these circumstances
it will be observed how rare the wearing of silk was in England。
Shortly after becoming king; James I。 endeavoured to establish
the silk manufacture in England; as had already been successfully
done in France。 He gave every encouragement to the breeding of
silkworms。 He sent circular letters to all the counties of
England; strongly recommending the inhabitants to plant mulberry
trees。 The trees were planted in many places; but the leaves did
not ripen in sufficient time for the sustenance of the silkworms。
The same attempt was made at Inneshannon; near Bandon; in
Ireland; by the Hugnenot refugees; but proved abortive。 The
climate proved too cold or damp for the rearing of silkworms with
advantage。 All that remains is 〃The Mulberry Field;〃 which still
retains its name。 Nevertheless the Huguenots successfully
established the silk manufacture at London and Dublin; obtaining
the spun silk from abroad。
Down to the beginning of last century; the Italians were the
principal producers of organzine or thrown silk; and for a long
time they succeeded in keeping their art a secret。 Although the
silk manufacture; as we have seen; was introduced into this
country by the Huguenot artizans; the price of thrown silk was so
great that it interfered very considerably with its progress。
Organzine was principally made within the dominions of Savoy; by
means of a large and curious engine; the like of which did not
exist elsewhere。 The Italians; by the most severe laws; long
preserved the mystery of the invention。 The punishment
prescribed by one of their laws to be inflicted upon anyone who
discovered the secret; or attempted to carry it out of the
Sardinian dominions; was death; with the forfeiture of all the
goods the delinquent possessed; and the culprit was 〃to be
afterwards painted on the outside of the prison walls; hanging to
the gallows by one foot; with an inscription denoting the name
and crime of the person; there to be continued for a perpetual
mark of infamy。〃'3'
Nevertheless; a bold and ingenious man was found ready to brave
all this danger in the endeavour to discover the secret。 It may
be remembered with what courage and determination the founder of
the Foley family introduced the manufacture of nails into
England。 He went into the Danemora mine district; near Upsala in
Sweden; fiddling his way among the miners; and after making two
voyages; he at last wrested from them the secret of making nails;
and introduced the new industry into the Staffordshire
district。'4' The courage of John Lombe; who introduced the
thrown…silk industry into England; was equally notable。 He was a
native of Norwich。 Playfair; in his 'Family Antiquity' (vii。
312); says his name 〃may have been taken from the French Lolme;
or de Lolme;〃 as there were many persons of French and Flemish
origin settled at Norwich towards the close of the sixteenth
century; but there is no further information as to his special
origin。
John Lombe's father; Henry Lombe; was a worsted weaver; and was
twice married。 By his first wife he had two sons; Thomas and
Henry; and by his second; he had also two sons; Benjamin and
John。 At his death in 1695; he left his two brothers his
〃supervisors;〃 or trustees; and directed them to educate his
children in due time to some useful trade。 Thomas; the eldest
son; went to London。 He was apprenticed to a trade; and
succeeded in business; as we find him Sheriff of London and
Middlesex in 1727; when in his forty…second year。 He was also
knighted in the same year; most probably on the accession of
George II。 to the throne。
John; the youngest son of the family; and half…brother of Thomas;
was put an apprentice to a trade。 In 1702; we find him at Derby;
working as a mechanic with one Mr。 Crotchet。 This unfortunate
gentleman started a small silk…mill at Derby; with the object of
participating in the profits derived from the manufacture。
〃The wear of silks;〃 says Hutton; in his 'History of Derby;' 〃was
the taste of the ladies; and the British merchant was obliged to
apply to the Italian with ready money for the article at an
exorbitant price。〃 Crotchet did not succeed in his undertaking。
〃Three engines were found necessary for the process: he had but
one。 An untoward trade is a dreadful sink for money; and an
imprudent tradesman is still more dreadfuL。 We often see
instances where a fortune would last a man much longer if he
lived upon his capital; than if he sent it into trade。 Crotchet
soon became insolvent。〃
John Lombe; who had been a mechanic in Crotchet's silk mill; lost
his situation accordingly。 But he seems to have been possessed
by an intense desire to ascertain the Italian method of
silk…throwing。 He could not learn it in England。 There was no
other method but going to Italy; getting into a silk mill; and
learning the secret of the Italian art。 He was a good mechanic
and a clever draughtsman; besides being intelligent and fearless。
But he had not the necessary money wherewith to proceed to Italy。
His half…brother Thomas; however; was doing well in London; and
was willing to help him with the requisite means。 Accordingly;
John set out for Italy; not long after the failure of Crotchet。
John Lombe succeeded in getting employment in a silk mill in
Piedmont; where the art of silk…throwing was kept a secret。 He
was employed as a mechanic; and had thus an opportunity; in
course of time; of becoming familiar with the operation of the
engine。 Hutton says that he bribed the workmen; but this would
have been a dangerous step;