first across the continent-第14部分
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ting…pole。
〃If this be； as we suppose； the Musselshell； our Indian information is that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far from the sources of the Yellowstone； whence in its course to this place it waters a high broken country； well timbered； particularly on its borders； and interspersed with handsome fertile plains and meadows。 We have reason； however； to believe； from their giving a similar account of the timber where we now are； that the timber of which they speak is similar to that which we have seen for a few days past； which consists of nothing more than a few straggling small pines and dwarf cedars on the summits of the hills； nine…tenths of the ground being totally destitute of wood； and covered with short grass； aromatic herbs； and an immense quantity of prickly…pear； though the party who explored it for eight miles represented the low grounds on the river to be well supplied with cottonwood of a tolerable size； and of an excellent soil。 They also report that the country is broken and irregular； like that near our camp； and that about five miles up； a handsome river； about fifty yards wide； which we named after Chaboneau's wife； Sacajawea's or the Bird…woman's River； discharges into the Musselshell on the north or upper side。〃
Later explorations have shown that the Musselshell rises in the Little Belt Mountains； considerably to the north of the sources of the Yellowstone。 Modern geography has also taken from the good Sacajawea the honor of having her name bestowed on one of the branches of the Musselshell。 The stream once named for her is now known as Crooked Creek： it joins the river near its mouth； in the central portion of Montana。 The journal； under date of May 22； has this entry：
〃The river ＇the Missouri＇ continues about two hundred and fifty yards wide； with fewer sand…bars； and the current more gentle and regular。 Game is no longer in such abundance since leaving the Musselshell。 We have caught very few fish on this side of the Mandans； and these were the white catfish； of two to five pounds。 We killed a deer and a bear。 We have not seen in this quarter the black bear； common in the United States and on the lower parts of the Missouri； nor have we discerned any of their tracks。 They may easily be distinguished by the shortness of the talons from the brown； grizzly； or white bear； all of which seem to be of the same species； which assumes those colors at different seasons of the year。 We halted earlier than usual； and camped on the north； in a point of woods； at the distance of sixteen and one half miles ＇thus past the site of Fort Hawley； on the south＇。〃
Notwithstanding the advance of the season； the weather in those great altitudes grew more and more cold。 Under date of May 23； the journal records the fact that ice appeared along the edges of the river； and water froze upon their oars。 But notwithstanding the coolness of the nights and mornings； mosquitoes were very troublesome。
The explorers judged that the cold was somewhat unusual for that locality； inasmuch as the cottonwood trees lost their leaves by the frost； showing that vegetation； generally well suited to the temperature of its country； or habitat； had been caught by an unusual nip of the frost。 The explorers noticed that the air of those highlands was so pure and clear that objects appeared to be much nearer than they really were。 A man who was sent out to explore the country attempted to reach a ridge （now known as the Little Rocky Mountains）； apparently about fifteen miles from the river。 He travelled about ten miles； but finding himself not halfway to the object of his search； he returned without reaching it。
The party was now just westward of the site of the present town of Carroll； Montana； on the Missouri。 Their journal says：
〃The low grounds are narrow and without timber； the country is high and broken； a large portion of black rock and brown sandy rock appears in the face of the hills； the tops of which are covered with scattered pine； spruce； and dwarf cedar； the soil is generally poor； sandy near the tops of the hills； and nowhere producing much grass； the low grounds being covered with little else than the hyssop； or southernwood； and the pulpy…leaved thorn。 Game is more scarce； particularly beaver； of which we have seen but few for several days； and the abundance or scarcity of which seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber。 At twenty…four and one…half miles we reached a point of woodland on the south； where we observed that the trees had no leaves； and camped for the night。〃
The 〃hyssop； or southernwood；〃 the reader now knows to be the wild sage； or sage…brush。 The 〃pulpy…leaved thorn〃 mentioned in the journal is the greasewood ； and both of these shrubs flourish in the poverty…stricken； sandy； alkaline soil of the far West and Northwest。 The woody fibre of these furnished the only fuel available for early overland emigrants to the Pacific。
The character of this country now changed considerably as the explorers turned to the northward； in their crooked course； with the river。 On the twenty…fifth of May the journal records this：
〃The country on each side is high； broken； and rocky； the rock being either a soft brown sandstone； covered with a thin stratum of limestone； or else a hard； black； rugged granite； both usually in horizontal strata； and the sand…rock overlaying the other。 Salts and quartz； as well as some coal and pumice…stone； still appear。 The bars of the river are composed principally of gravel； the river low grounds are narrow； and afford scarcely any timber； nor is there much pine on the hills。 The buffalo have now become scarce； we saw a polecat ＇skunk＇ this evening； which was the first for several days； in the course of the day we also saw several herds of the bighorned animals among the steep cliffs on the north； and killed several of them。〃
The bighorned animals； the first of which were killed here； were sometimes called 〃Rocky Mountain sheep。〃 But sheep they were not； bearing hair and not wool。 As we have said； they are now more commonly known as bighorns。
The patience of the explorers was rewarded； on Sunday； May 26； 1806； by their first view of the Rocky Mountains。 Here is the journal's record on that date：
〃It was here ＇Cow Creek； Mont。＇ that； after ascending the highest summit of the hills on the north side of the river； Captain Lewis first caught a distant view of the Rock mountainsthe object of all our hopes； and the reward of all our ambition。 On both sides of the river； and at no great distance from it； the mountains followed its course。 Above these at the distance of fifty miles from us； an irregular range of mountains spread from west to northwest from his position。 To the north of these； a few elevated points； the most remarkable of which bore N。 65'0 W。； appeared above the horizon； and as the sun shone on the snows of their summits； he obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains which close on the Missouri the passage to the Pacific。〃
As they continued to ascend the Missouri they found themselves confronted by many considerable rapids which sometimes delayed their progress。 They also set forth this observation： 〃The only animals we have observed are the elk； the bighorn； and the hare common to this country。〃 Wayfarers across the plains now call this hare the jack…rabbit。 The river soon became very rapid with a marked descent； indicating their nearness to its mountain sources。 The journal says：
〃Its general width is about two hundred yards； the shoals are more frequent； and the rocky points at the mouths of the gullies more troublesome to pass。 Great quantities of stone lie in the river and on its bank； and seem to have fallen down as the rain washed away the clay and sand in which they were imbedded。 The water is bordered by high； rugged bluffs； composed of irregular but horizontal strata of yellow and brown or black clay； brown and yellowish…white sand； soft yellowish…white sandstone； and hard dark brown freestone； also； large round kidney…formed irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone； imbedded in the clay and sand； some coal or carbonated wood also makes its appearance in the cliffs； as do its usual attendants； the pumice…stone and burnt earth。 The salts and quartz are less abundant； and； generally speaking； the country is； if possible； more rugged and barren than that we passed yesterday； the only growth of the hills being a few pine； spruce； and dwarf cedar； interspersed with an occasional contrast； once in the course of some miles； of several acres of level ground； which supply a scanty subsistence for a few little cottonwoods。〃
But； a few days later； the party passed out of this inhospitable region； and； after passing a stream which they named Thompson's （now Birch） Creek； after one of their men； they were glad to make this entry in their diary：
〃Here the country assumed a totally different aspect： the hills retired on both sides from the river； which spreads to more than three times its former size； and is filled with a number of small handsome islands covered with cottonwood。 The low grounds on its banks are again wide； fertile； and enriched with trees： those on the north are particularly wide； the hills being comparatively low； and opening into three large valleys； which extend themselves for a considerable distance towards the north。 These appearances of vegetation are delightful after the dreary hills among which we have passed； and we have now to congratulate ourselves at having escaped from the last ridges of the Black Mountains。 On leaving Thompson's Creek we passed two small islands； and at twenty…three miles' distance encamped among some timber； on the north； opposite to a small creek； which we named Bull Creek。 The bighorn are in great quantities； and must bring forth their young at a very early season； as they are now half grown。 One of the party saw a large bear also； but； being at a distance from the river； and having no timber to conceal him； he would not venture to fire。〃
A curious adventure happened on the twenty…eighth； of which the journal； next day； makes this mention：
〃Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy。 A buffalo swam over from the op
