wild wales-第119部分

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considerable　village。　　It　stood　on　the　right…hand　side　of　the　road；　
fronting　the　east；　having　a　high　romantic　hill　behind　it　on　the　
sides　of　which　were　woods；　groves；　and　pleasant…looking　white　
houses。

〃What　place　is　this？〃　said　I　to　my　companion。

〃This　is　…；　your　honour；　and　here；　if　your　honour　will　accept　a　
glass　of　whiskey　we　will　splice　the　mainbrace　together。〃

〃Thank　you；〃　said　I；　〃but　I　am　in　haste　to　get　to　Swansea。　　
Moreover；　if　I　am　over　fond　of　the　drop；　as　you　say　I　am；　the　
sooner　I　begin　to　practise　abstinence　the　better。〃

〃Very　true；　your　honour！　　Well；　at　any　rate；　when　your　honour　gets　
to　Swansea；　you　will　not　be　able　to　say　that　Pat　Flannagan　walked　
for　miles　with　your　honour　along　the　road；　without　offering　your　
honour　a　glass　of　whiskey。〃

〃Nor　shall　Pat　Flannagan　be　able　to　say　the　same　thing　of　my　
honour。　　I　have　a　shilling　in　my　pocket　at　Pat　Flannagan's　service；　
if　he　chooses　to　splice　with　it　the　mainbrace　for　himself　and　for　
me。〃

〃Thank　your　honour；　but　I　have　a　shilling　in　my　own　pocket；　and　a　
dollar　too；　and　a　five…pound　note　besides；　so　I　needn't　be　beholden　
for　drink　money　to　anybody　under　the　sun。〃

〃Well　then；　farewell！　　Here's　my　hand！　…　Slan　leat　a　Phatraic　ui　
Flannagan！〃

〃Slan　leat　a　dhuine…uasail！〃　said　Patrick；　giving　me　his　hand；　〃and　
health；　hope；　and　happiness　to　ye。〃

Thereupon　he　turned　aside　to　…；　and　I　continued　my　way　to　Swansea。　　
Arrived　at　a　place　called　Glandwr；　about　two　miles　from　Swansea；　I　
found　that　I　was　splashed　from　top　to　toe；　for　the　roads　were　
frightfully　miry；　and　was　sorry　to　perceive　that　my　boots　had　given　
way　at　the　soles；　large　pieces　of　which　were　sticking　out。　　I　must；　
however；　do　the　poor　things　the　justice　to　say；　that　it　was　no　
wonder　that　they　were　in　this　dilapidated　condition；　for　in　those　
boots　I　had　walked　at　least　two　hundred　miles；　over　all　kinds　of　
paths；　since　I　had　got　them　soled　at　Llangollen。　　〃Well；〃　said　I　to　
myself；　〃it　won't　do　to　show　myself　at　Swansea　in　this　condition；　
more　especially　as　I　shall　go　to　the　best　hotel；　I　must　try　and　get　
myself　made　a　little　decent　here。〃　　Seeing　a　little　inn；　on　my　
right；　I　entered　it；　and　addressing　myself　to　a　neat　comfortable　
landlady；　who　was　standing　within　the　bar；　I　said：…

〃Please　to　let　me　have　a　glass　of　ale！　…　and　hearkee；　as　I　have　
been　walking　along　the　road；　I　should　be　glad　of　the　services　of　
the　'boots。'〃

〃Very　good；　sir；〃　said　the　landlady　with　a　curtsey。

Then　showing　me　into　a　nice　little　sanded　parlour；　she　brought　me　
the　glass　of　ale；　and　presently　sent　in　a　lad　with　a　boot…jack　to　
minister　to　me。　　Oh；　what　can't　a　little　money　effect？　　For　
sixpence　in　that　small　nice　inn；　I　had　a　glass　of　ale；　my　boots　
cleaned；　and　the　excrescences　cut　off；　my　clothes　wiped　with　a　
dwile；　and　then　passed　over　with　a　brush；　and　was　myself　thanked　
over　and　over　again。　　Starting　again　with　all　the　spirited　
confidence　of　one　who　has　just　cast　off　his　slough；　I　soon　found　
myself　in　the　suburbs　of　Swansea。　　As　I　passed　under　what　appeared　
to　be　a　railroad　bridge　I　inquired　in　Welsh　of　an　ancient…looking　
man；　in　coaly　habiliments；　if　it　was　one。　　He　answered　in　the　same　
language　that　it　was；　then　instantly　added　in　English：…

〃You　have　taken　your　last　farewell　of　Wales；　sir；　it's　no　use　
speaking　Welsh　farther　on。〃

I　passed　some　immense　edifices；　probably　manufactories；　and　was　
soon　convinced　that；　whether　I　was　in　Wales　or　not；　I　was　no　longer　
amongst　Welsh。　　The　people　whom　I　met　did　not　look　like　Welsh。　　
They　were　taller　and　bulkier　than　the　Cambrians；　and　were　speaking　
a　dissonant　English　jargon。　　The　women　had　much　the　appearance　of　
Dutch　fisherwomen；　some　of　them　were　carrying　huge　loads　on　their　
heads。　　I　spoke　in　Welsh　to　two　or　three　whom　I　overtook。

〃No　Welsh；　sir！〃

〃Why　don't　you　speak　Welsh？〃　said　I。

〃Because　we　never　learnt　it。　　We　are　not　Welsh。〃

〃Who　are　you　then？〃

〃English；　some　calls　us　Flamings。〃

〃Ah；　ah！〃　said　I　to　myself；　〃I　had　forgot。〃

Presently　I　entered　the　town；　a　large；　bustling；　dirty；　gloomy　
place；　and　inquiring　for　the　first　hotel；　was　directed　to　the　
〃Mackworth　Arms；〃　in　Wine　Street。

As　soon　as　I　was　shown　into　the　parlour　I　summoned　the　〃boots；〃　and　
on　his　making　his　appearance　I　said　in　a　stern　voice：　　〃My　boots　
want　soling；　let　them　be　done　by　to…morrow　morning。〃

〃Can't　be；　sir；　it's　now　Saturday　afternoon；　the　shoemaker　couldn't　
begin　them　to…night！〃

〃But　you　must　make　him！〃　said　I；　〃and　look　here；　I　shall　give　him　a　
shilling　extra；　and　you　an　extra　shilling　for　seeing　after　him。〃

〃Yes；　sir；　I'll　see　after　him　…　they　shall　be　done；　sir。　　Bring　you　
your　slippers　instantly。　　Glad　to　see　you　again　in　Swansea；　sir；　
looking　so　well。〃



CHAPTER　CI



Swansea　…　The　Flemings　…　Towards　England。


SWANSEA　is　called　by　the　Welsh　Abertawe；　which　signifies　the　mouth　
of　the　Tawy。　　Aber；　as　I　have　more　than　once　had　occasion　to　
observe；　signifies　the　place　where　a　river　enters　into　the　sea　or　
joins　another。　　It　is　a　Gaelic　as　well　as　a　Cumric　word；　being　
found　in　the　Gaelic　names　Aberdeen　and　Lochaber；　and　there　is　good　
reason　for　supposing　that　the　word　harbour　is　derived　from　it。　　
Swansea　or　Swansey　is　a　compound　word　of　Scandinavian　origin；　which　
may　mean　either　a　river　abounding　with　swans；　or　the　river　of　
Swanr；　the　name　of　some　northern　adventurer　who　settled　down　at　its　
mouth。　　The　final　ea　or　ey　is　the　Norwegian　aa；　which　signifies　a　
running　water；　it　is　of　frequent　occurrence　in　the　names　of　rivers　
in　Norway；　and　is　often　found；　similarly　modified；　in　those　of　
other　countries　where　the　adventurous　Norwegians　formed　
settlements。

Swansea　first　became　a　place　of　some　importance　shortly　after　the　
beginning　of　the　twelfth　century。　　In　the　year　1108；　the　greater　
part　of　Flanders　having　been　submerged　by　the　sea　（19）　an　immense　
number　of　Flemings　came　over　to　England；　and　entreated　of　Henry　the　
First　the　king　then　occupying　the　throne；　that　he　would　all　allot　
to　them　lands　in　which　they　might　settle；　The　king　sent　them　to　
various　parts　of　Wales；　which　had　been　conquered　by　his　barons　or　
those　of　his　predecessors：　　a　considerable　number　occupied　Swansea　
and　the　neighbourhood；　but　far　the　greater　part　went　to　Dyfed；　
generally　but　improperly　called　Pembroke；　the　south…eastern　part　of　
which；　by　far　the　most　fertile；　they　entirely　took　possession　of；　
leaving　to　the　Welsh　the　rest；　which　is　very　mountainous　and　
barren。

I　have　already　said　that　the　people　of　Swansea　stand　out　in　broad　
distinctness　from　the　Cumry；　differing　from　them　in　stature；　
language；　dress；　and　manners；　and　wished　to　observe　that　the　same　
thing　may　be　said　of　the　inhabitants　of　every　part　of　Wales　which　
the　Flemings　colonised　in　any　considerable　numbers。

I　found　the　accommodation　very　good　at　the　〃Mackworth　Arms〃；　I　
passed　the　Saturday　evening　very　agreeably；　and　slept　well　
throughout　the　night。　　The　next　morning　to　my　great　joy　I　found　my　
boots；　capitally　repaired；　awaiting　me　before　my　chamber　door。　　Oh　
the　mighty　effect　of　a　little　money！　　After　breakfast　I　put　them　
on；　and　as　it　was　Sunday　went　out　in　order　to　go　to　church。　　The　
streets　were　thronged　with　people；　a　new　mayor　had　just　been　
elected；　and　his　worship；　attended　by　a　number　of　halbert　and　
javelin　men；　was　going　to　church　too。　　I　followed　the　procession；　
which　moved　with　great　dignity　and　of　course　very　slowly。　　The　
church　had　a　high　square　tower；　and　looked　a　very　fine　edifice　on　
the　outside；　and　no　less　so　within；　for　the　nave　was　lofty　with　
noble　pillars　on　each　side。　　I　stood　during　the　whole　of　the　
service　as　did　many　others；　for　the　congregation　was　so　great　that　
it　was　impossible　to　accommodate　all　with　seats。　　The　ritual　was　
performed　in　a　very　satisfactory　manner；　and　was　followed　by　an　
excellent　sermon。　　I　am　ashamed　to　say　that　have　forgot　the　text；　
but　I　remember　a　good　deal　of　the　discourse。　　The　preacher　said　
amongst　other　thing　that　the　Gospel　was　not　preached　in　vain；　and　
that　he　very　much　doubted　whether　a　sermon　was　ever　delivered　which　
did　not　do　some　good。　　On　the　conclusion　of　the　service　I　strolled　
about　in　order　to　see　the　town　and　what　pertained　to　it。　　The　town　
is　of　considerable　size；　with　some　remarkable　edifices；　spacious　
and　convenient　quays；　and　a　commodious　harbour　into　which　the　river　
Tawy　flowing　from　the　north　empties　itself。　　The　town　and　harbour　
are　overhung　on　the　side　of　the　east　by　a　lofty　green　mountain　with　
a　Welsh　name；　no　doubt　exceedingly　appropriate；　but　which　I　regret　
to　say　has　escaped　my　memory。

After　having　seen　all　that　I　wished；　I　returned　to　my　inn　and　
discharged　all　my　obligations。　　I　then　departed；　framing　my　course　
eastward　towards　England；　having　traversed　Wales　nearly　from　north　
to　south。



CHAPTER　CII



Leave　Swansea　…　The　Pandemonium　…　Neath　Abbey　…　Varied　Scenery。


IT　was　about　two　o'clock　of　a　dull　and　gloomy　afternoon　when　I　
started　from　Abertawy　or　Swansea；　intending　to　stop　at　Neath；　some　
eight　miles　distant。　　As　I　passed　again　through　the　suburbs　I　was　
struck　with　their　length　and　the　evidences　of　enterprise　which　they　
exhibited　…　enterprise；　however；　evidently　chiefly　connected　with　
iron　and　coal；　for　almost　every　object　looked　awfully　grimy。　　
Crossing　a　bridge　I　proceeded　to　the　east　up　a　broad　and　spacious　
valley；　the　eastern　side　of　which　was　formed　by　russet…coloured　
hills；　through　a　vista　of　which　I　could　descry　a　range　of　tall　blue　
mountains。　　As　I　proceeded　I　sometimes　passed　pleasant　groves　and　
hedgerows；　sometimes　huge　works；　in　this　valley　there　was　a　
singular　mixture　of　nature　and　art；　of　the　voices　of　birds　and　the　
clanking　of　chains；　of　the　mists　of　heaven　and　the　smoke　of　
furnaces。

I　reached　Llan…　；　a　small　village　half…way　between　Swansea　and　
Neath；　and　without　stopping　continued　my　course；　walking　very　fast。　　
I　had　surmounted　a　hill；　and　had　nearly　descended　that　side　of　it　
which　looked　towards　the　east；　having　on　my　left；　that　is　to　the　
north；　a　wooded　height；　when　an　extraordinary　scene　presented　
itself　to　my　eyes。　　Somewhat　t