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penhwiaid; or ducks…heads; from the similarity which the head of a 
pike bears to that of a duck; are said to be tenants of this pool。

We returned to the vicarage; and at about ten we all sat down to 
supper。  On the supper…table was a mighty pitcher full of foaming 
ale。

〃There;〃 said my excellent host; as he poured me out a glass; 
〃there is a glass of cwrw; which Evan Evans himself might have 
drunk。〃

One evening my wife; Henrietta; and myself; attended by John Jones; 
went upon the Berwyn; a little to the east of the Geraint or 
Barber's Hill; to botanize。  Here we found a fern which John Jones 
called Coed llus y Bran; or the plant of the Crow's berry。  There 
was a hard kind of berry upon it; of which he said the crows were 
exceedingly fond。  We also discovered two or three other strange 
plants; the Welsh names of which our guide told us; and which were 
curious and descriptive enough。  He took us home by a romantic path 
which we had never before seen; and on our way pointed out to us a 
small house in which he said he was born。

The day after; finding myself on the banks of the Dee in the upper 
part of the valley; I determined to examine the Llam Lleidyr or 
Robber's Leap; which I had heard spoken of on a former occasion。  A 
man passing near me with a cart I asked him where the Robber's Leap 
was。  I spoke in English; and with a shake of his head he replied 
〃Dim Saesneg。〃  On my putting the question to him in Welsh; 
however; his countenance brightened up。

〃Dyna Llam Lleidyr; sir!〃 said he; pointing to a very narrow part 
of the stream a little way down。

〃And did the thief take it from this side?〃 I demanded。

〃Yes; sir; from this side;〃 replied the man。

I thanked him; and passing over the dry part of the river's bed; 
came to the Llam Lleidyr。  The whole water of the Dee in the dry 
season gurgles here through a passage not more than four feet 
across; which; however; is evidently profoundly deep; as the water 
is as dark as pitch。  If the thief ever took the leap he must have 
taken it in the dry season; for in the wet the Dee is a wide and 
roaring torrent。  Yet even in the dry season it is difficult to 
conceive how anybody could take this leap; for on the other side is 
a rock rising high above the dark gurgling stream。  On observing 
the opposite side; however; narrowly; I perceived that there was a 
small hole a little way up the rock; in which it seemed possible to 
rest one's foot for a moment。  So I supposed that if the leap was 
ever taken; the individual who took it darted the tip of his foot 
into the hole; then springing up seized the top of the rock with 
his hands; and scrambled up。  From either side the leap must have 
been a highly dangerous one … from the farther side the leaper 
would incur the almost certain risk of breaking his legs on a ledge 
of hard rock; from this of falling back into the deep horrible 
stream; which would probably suck him down in a moment。

From the Llam y Lleidyr I went to the canal and walked along it 
till I came to the house of the old man who sold coals; and who had 
put me in mind of Smollett's Morgan; he was now standing in his 
little coal…yard; leaning over the pales。  I had spoken to him on 
two or three occasions subsequent to the one on which I made his 
acquaintance; and had been every time more and more struck with the 
resemblance which his ways and manners bore to those of Smollett's 
character; on which account I shall call him Morgan; though such 
was not his name。  He now told me that he expected that I should 
build a villa and settle down in the neighbourhood; as I seemed so 
fond of it。  After a little discourse; induced either by my 
questions or from a desire to talk about himself; he related to me 
his history; which; though not one of the most wonderful; I shall 
repeat。  He was born near Aberdarron in Caernarvonshire; and in 
order to make me understand the position of the place; and its 
bearing with regard to some other places; he drew marks in the 
coal…dust on the earth。  His father was a Baptist minister; who 
when Morgan was about six years of age; went to live at Canol Lyn; 
a place at some little distance from Port Heli。  With his father he 
continued till he was old enough to gain his own maintenance; when 
he went to serve a farmer in the neighbourhood。  Having saved some 
money young Morgan departed to the foundries at Cefn Mawr; at which 
he worked thirty years with an interval of four; which he had 
passed partly in working in slate quarries; and partly upon the 
canal。  About four years before the present time he came to where 
he now lived; where he commenced selling coals; at first on his own 
account and subsequently for some other person。  He concluded his 
narration by saying that he was now sixty…two years of age; was 
afflicted with various disorders; and believed that he was breaking 
up。

Such was Morgan's history; certainly not a very remarkable one。  
Yet Morgan was a most remarkable individual; as I shall presently 
make appear。

Rather affected at the bad account he gave me of his health I asked 
him if he felt easy in his mind?  He replied perfectly so; and when 
I inquired how he came to feel so comfortable; he said that his 
feeling so was owing to his baptism into the faith of Christ Jesus。  
On my telling him that I too had been baptized; he asked me if I 
had been dipped; and on learning that I had not; but only been 
sprinkled; according to the practice of my church; he gave me to 
understand that my baptism was not worth three halfpence。  Feeling 
rather nettled at hearing the baptism of my church so undervalued; 
I stood up for it; and we were soon in a dispute; in which I got 
rather the worst; for though he spuffled and sputtered in a most 
extraordinary manner; and spoke in a dialect which was neither 
Welsh; English nor Cheshire; but a mixture of all three; he said 
two or three things rather difficult to be got over。  Finding that 
he had nearly silenced me; he observed that he did not deny that I 
had a good deal of book learning; but that in matters of baptism I 
was as ignorant as the rest of the people of the church were; and 
had always been。  He then said that many church people had entered 
into argument with him on the subject of baptism; but that he had 
got the better of them all; that Mr P。; the minister of the parish 
of L。; in which we then were; had frequently entered into argument 
with him; but quite unsuccessfully; and had at last given up the 
matter; as a bad job。  He added that a little time before; as Mr P。 
was walking close to the canal with his wife and daughter and a 
spaniel dog; Mr P。 suddenly took up the dog and flung it in; giving 
it a good ducking; whereupon he; Morgan; cried out:  〃Dyna y gwir 
vedydd!  That is the right baptism; sir!  I thought I should bring 
you to it at last!〃 at which words Mr P。 laughed heartily; but made 
no particular reply。

After a little time he began to talk about the great men who had 
risen up amongst the Baptists; and mentioned two or three 
distinguished individuals。

I said that he had not mentioned the greatest man who had been born 
amongst the Baptists。

〃What was his name?〃 said he。

〃His name was Joost Van Vondel;〃 I replied。

〃I never heard of him before;〃 said Morgan。

〃Very probably;〃 said I:  〃he was born; bred; and died in Holland。〃

〃Has he been dead long?〃 said Morgan。

〃About two hundred years;〃 said I。

〃That's a long time;〃 said Morgan; 〃and maybe is the reason that I 
never heard of him。  So he was a great man?〃

〃He was indeed;〃 said I。  〃He was not only the greatest man that 
ever sprang up amongst the Baptists; but the greatest; and by far 
the greatest; that Holland ever produced; though Holland has 
produced a great many illustrious men。〃

〃Oh I daresay he was a great man if he was a Baptist;〃 said Morgan。  
〃Well; it's strange I never read of him。  I thought I had read the 
lives of all the eminent people who lived and died in our 
communion。〃

〃He did not die in the Baptist communion;〃 said I。

〃Oh; he didn't die in it;〃 said Morgan; 〃What; did he go over to 
the Church of England? a pretty fellow!〃

〃He did not go over to the Church of England;〃 said I; 〃for the 
Church of England does not exist in Holland; he went over to the 
Church of Rome。〃

〃Well; that's not quite so bad;〃 said Morgan; 〃however; it's bad 
enough。  I daresay he was a pretty blackguard。〃

〃No;〃 said I:  〃he was a pure virtuous character; and perhaps the 
only pure and virtuous character that ever went over to Rome。  The 
only wonder is that so good a man could ever have gone over to so 
detestable a church; but he appears to have been deluded。〃

〃Deluded indeed!〃 said Morgan。  〃However; I suppose he went over 
for advancement's sake。〃

〃No;〃 said I; 〃he lost every prospect of advancement by going over 
to Rome:  nine…tenths of his countrymen were of the reformed 
religion; and he endured much poverty and contempt by the step he 
took。〃

〃How did he support himself?〃 said Morgan。

〃He obtained a livelihood;〃 said I; 〃by writing poems and plays; 
some of which are wonderfully fine。〃

〃What;〃 said Morgan; 〃a writer of Interludes?  One of Twm o'r 
Nant's gang!  I thought he would turn out a pretty fellow。〃  I told 
him that the person in question certainly did write Interludes; for 
example Noah; and Joseph at Goshen; but that he was a highly 
respectable; nay venerable character。

〃If he was a writer of Interludes;〃 said Morgan; 〃he was a 
blackguard; there never yet was a writer of Interludes; or a person 
who went about playing them; that was not a scamp。  He might be a 
clever man; I don't say he was not。  Who was a cleverer man than 
Twm o'r Nant with his Pleasure and Care; and Riches and Poverty; 
but where was there a greater blackguard?  Why; not in all Wales。  
And if you knew this other fellow … what's his name … Fondle's 
history; you would find that he was not a bit more respectable than 
Twm o'r Nant; and not half so clever。  As for his leaving the 
Baptists I don't believe a word of it; he was turned out of the 
connection; and then went about the c

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