wild wales-第22部分
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penhwiaid; or ducks…heads; from the similarity which the head of a
pike bears to that of a duck; are said to be tenants of this pool。
We returned to the vicarage; and at about ten we all sat down to
supper。 On the supper…table was a mighty pitcher full of foaming
ale。
〃There;〃 said my excellent host; as he poured me out a glass;
〃there is a glass of cwrw; which Evan Evans himself might have
drunk。〃
One evening my wife; Henrietta; and myself; attended by John Jones;
went upon the Berwyn; a little to the east of the Geraint or
Barber's Hill; to botanize。 Here we found a fern which John Jones
called Coed llus y Bran; or the plant of the Crow's berry。 There
was a hard kind of berry upon it; of which he said the crows were
exceedingly fond。 We also discovered two or three other strange
plants; the Welsh names of which our guide told us; and which were
curious and descriptive enough。 He took us home by a romantic path
which we had never before seen; and on our way pointed out to us a
small house in which he said he was born。
The day after; finding myself on the banks of the Dee in the upper
part of the valley; I determined to examine the Llam Lleidyr or
Robber's Leap; which I had heard spoken of on a former occasion。 A
man passing near me with a cart I asked him where the Robber's Leap
was。 I spoke in English; and with a shake of his head he replied
〃Dim Saesneg。〃 On my putting the question to him in Welsh;
however; his countenance brightened up。
〃Dyna Llam Lleidyr; sir!〃 said he; pointing to a very narrow part
of the stream a little way down。
〃And did the thief take it from this side?〃 I demanded。
〃Yes; sir; from this side;〃 replied the man。
I thanked him; and passing over the dry part of the river's bed;
came to the Llam Lleidyr。 The whole water of the Dee in the dry
season gurgles here through a passage not more than four feet
across; which; however; is evidently profoundly deep; as the water
is as dark as pitch。 If the thief ever took the leap he must have
taken it in the dry season; for in the wet the Dee is a wide and
roaring torrent。 Yet even in the dry season it is difficult to
conceive how anybody could take this leap; for on the other side is
a rock rising high above the dark gurgling stream。 On observing
the opposite side; however; narrowly; I perceived that there was a
small hole a little way up the rock; in which it seemed possible to
rest one's foot for a moment。 So I supposed that if the leap was
ever taken; the individual who took it darted the tip of his foot
into the hole; then springing up seized the top of the rock with
his hands; and scrambled up。 From either side the leap must have
been a highly dangerous one … from the farther side the leaper
would incur the almost certain risk of breaking his legs on a ledge
of hard rock; from this of falling back into the deep horrible
stream; which would probably suck him down in a moment。
From the Llam y Lleidyr I went to the canal and walked along it
till I came to the house of the old man who sold coals; and who had
put me in mind of Smollett's Morgan; he was now standing in his
little coal…yard; leaning over the pales。 I had spoken to him on
two or three occasions subsequent to the one on which I made his
acquaintance; and had been every time more and more struck with the
resemblance which his ways and manners bore to those of Smollett's
character; on which account I shall call him Morgan; though such
was not his name。 He now told me that he expected that I should
build a villa and settle down in the neighbourhood; as I seemed so
fond of it。 After a little discourse; induced either by my
questions or from a desire to talk about himself; he related to me
his history; which; though not one of the most wonderful; I shall
repeat。 He was born near Aberdarron in Caernarvonshire; and in
order to make me understand the position of the place; and its
bearing with regard to some other places; he drew marks in the
coal…dust on the earth。 His father was a Baptist minister; who
when Morgan was about six years of age; went to live at Canol Lyn;
a place at some little distance from Port Heli。 With his father he
continued till he was old enough to gain his own maintenance; when
he went to serve a farmer in the neighbourhood。 Having saved some
money young Morgan departed to the foundries at Cefn Mawr; at which
he worked thirty years with an interval of four; which he had
passed partly in working in slate quarries; and partly upon the
canal。 About four years before the present time he came to where
he now lived; where he commenced selling coals; at first on his own
account and subsequently for some other person。 He concluded his
narration by saying that he was now sixty…two years of age; was
afflicted with various disorders; and believed that he was breaking
up。
Such was Morgan's history; certainly not a very remarkable one。
Yet Morgan was a most remarkable individual; as I shall presently
make appear。
Rather affected at the bad account he gave me of his health I asked
him if he felt easy in his mind? He replied perfectly so; and when
I inquired how he came to feel so comfortable; he said that his
feeling so was owing to his baptism into the faith of Christ Jesus。
On my telling him that I too had been baptized; he asked me if I
had been dipped; and on learning that I had not; but only been
sprinkled; according to the practice of my church; he gave me to
understand that my baptism was not worth three halfpence。 Feeling
rather nettled at hearing the baptism of my church so undervalued;
I stood up for it; and we were soon in a dispute; in which I got
rather the worst; for though he spuffled and sputtered in a most
extraordinary manner; and spoke in a dialect which was neither
Welsh; English nor Cheshire; but a mixture of all three; he said
two or three things rather difficult to be got over。 Finding that
he had nearly silenced me; he observed that he did not deny that I
had a good deal of book learning; but that in matters of baptism I
was as ignorant as the rest of the people of the church were; and
had always been。 He then said that many church people had entered
into argument with him on the subject of baptism; but that he had
got the better of them all; that Mr P。; the minister of the parish
of L。; in which we then were; had frequently entered into argument
with him; but quite unsuccessfully; and had at last given up the
matter; as a bad job。 He added that a little time before; as Mr P。
was walking close to the canal with his wife and daughter and a
spaniel dog; Mr P。 suddenly took up the dog and flung it in; giving
it a good ducking; whereupon he; Morgan; cried out: 〃Dyna y gwir
vedydd! That is the right baptism; sir! I thought I should bring
you to it at last!〃 at which words Mr P。 laughed heartily; but made
no particular reply。
After a little time he began to talk about the great men who had
risen up amongst the Baptists; and mentioned two or three
distinguished individuals。
I said that he had not mentioned the greatest man who had been born
amongst the Baptists。
〃What was his name?〃 said he。
〃His name was Joost Van Vondel;〃 I replied。
〃I never heard of him before;〃 said Morgan。
〃Very probably;〃 said I: 〃he was born; bred; and died in Holland。〃
〃Has he been dead long?〃 said Morgan。
〃About two hundred years;〃 said I。
〃That's a long time;〃 said Morgan; 〃and maybe is the reason that I
never heard of him。 So he was a great man?〃
〃He was indeed;〃 said I。 〃He was not only the greatest man that
ever sprang up amongst the Baptists; but the greatest; and by far
the greatest; that Holland ever produced; though Holland has
produced a great many illustrious men。〃
〃Oh I daresay he was a great man if he was a Baptist;〃 said Morgan。
〃Well; it's strange I never read of him。 I thought I had read the
lives of all the eminent people who lived and died in our
communion。〃
〃He did not die in the Baptist communion;〃 said I。
〃Oh; he didn't die in it;〃 said Morgan; 〃What; did he go over to
the Church of England? a pretty fellow!〃
〃He did not go over to the Church of England;〃 said I; 〃for the
Church of England does not exist in Holland; he went over to the
Church of Rome。〃
〃Well; that's not quite so bad;〃 said Morgan; 〃however; it's bad
enough。 I daresay he was a pretty blackguard。〃
〃No;〃 said I: 〃he was a pure virtuous character; and perhaps the
only pure and virtuous character that ever went over to Rome。 The
only wonder is that so good a man could ever have gone over to so
detestable a church; but he appears to have been deluded。〃
〃Deluded indeed!〃 said Morgan。 〃However; I suppose he went over
for advancement's sake。〃
〃No;〃 said I; 〃he lost every prospect of advancement by going over
to Rome: nine…tenths of his countrymen were of the reformed
religion; and he endured much poverty and contempt by the step he
took。〃
〃How did he support himself?〃 said Morgan。
〃He obtained a livelihood;〃 said I; 〃by writing poems and plays;
some of which are wonderfully fine。〃
〃What;〃 said Morgan; 〃a writer of Interludes? One of Twm o'r
Nant's gang! I thought he would turn out a pretty fellow。〃 I told
him that the person in question certainly did write Interludes; for
example Noah; and Joseph at Goshen; but that he was a highly
respectable; nay venerable character。
〃If he was a writer of Interludes;〃 said Morgan; 〃he was a
blackguard; there never yet was a writer of Interludes; or a person
who went about playing them; that was not a scamp。 He might be a
clever man; I don't say he was not。 Who was a cleverer man than
Twm o'r Nant with his Pleasure and Care; and Riches and Poverty;
but where was there a greater blackguard? Why; not in all Wales。
And if you knew this other fellow … what's his name … Fondle's
history; you would find that he was not a bit more respectable than
Twm o'r Nant; and not half so clever。 As for his leaving the
Baptists I don't believe a word of it; he was turned out of the
connection; and then went about the c