wild wales-第31部分
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〃Your hanner is an Orange man; I see。 Well; your hanner; the
Orange is now in the kennel; and the Croppies have it all their own
way。〃
〃And perhaps;〃 said I; 〃before I die; the Orange will be out of the
kennel and the Croppies in; even as they were in my young days。〃
〃Who knows; your hanner? and who knows that I may not play the old
tune round Willie's image in College Green; even as I used some
twenty…seven years ago?〃
〃Oh then you have been an Orange fiddler?〃
〃I have; your hanner。 And now as your hanner has behaved like a
gentleman to me I will tell ye all my history。 I was born in the
city of Dublin; that is in the village of Donnybrook; as I tould
your hanner before。 It was to the trade of bricklaying I was bred;
and bricklaying I followed till at last; getting my leg smashed;
not by falling off the ladder; but by a row in the fair; I was
obliged to give it up; for how could I run up the ladder with a
patten on my foot; which they put on to make my broken leg as long
as the other。 Well your hanner; being obliged to give up my
bricklaying; I took to fiddling; to which I had always a natural
inclination; and played about the streets; and at fairs; and wakes;
and weddings。 At length some Orange men getting acquainted with
me; and liking my style of playing; invited me to their lodge;
where they gave me to drink and tould me that if I would change my
religion; and join them; and play their tunes; they would make it
answer my purpose。 Well; your hanner; without much stickling I
gave up my Popery; joined the Orange lodge; learned the Orange
tunes; and became a regular Protestant boy; and truly the Orange
men kept their word; and made it answer my purpose。 Oh the meat
and drink I got; and the money I made by playing at the Orange
lodges and before the processions when the Orange men paraded the
streets with their Orange colours。 And oh; what a day for me was
the glorious first of July when with my whole body covered with
Orange ribbons; I fiddled Croppies Lie Down; Boyne Water; and the
Protestant Boys before the procession which walked round Willie's
figure on horseback in College Green; the man and horse all ablaze
with Orange colours。 But nothing lasts under the sun; as your
hanner knows; Orangeism began to go down; the Government scowled at
it; and at last passed a law preventing the Protestant boys
dressing up the figure on the first of July; and walking round it。
That was the death…blow of the Orange party; your hanner; they
never recovered it; but began to despond and dwindle; and I with
them; for there was scarcely any demand for Orange tunes。 Then Dan
O'Connell arose with his emancipation and repale cries; and then
instead of Orange processions and walkings; there were Papist
processions and mobs; which made me afraid to stir out; lest
knowing me for an Orange fiddler; they should break my head; as the
boys broke my leg at Donnybrook fair。 At length some of the
repalers and emancipators knowing that I was a first…rate hand at
fiddling came to me and tould me; that if I would give over playing
Croppies Lie Down and other Orange tunes; and would play Croppies
Get Up; and what not; and become a Catholic and a repaler; and an
emancipator; they would make a man of me … so as my Orange trade
was gone; and I was half…starved; I consinted; not however till
they had introduced me to Daniel O'Connell; who called me a cridit
to my country; and the Irish Horpheus; and promised me a sovereign
if I would consint to join the cause; as he called it。 Well; your
hanner; I joined with the cause and became a Papist; I mane a
Catholic once more; and went at the head of processions covered all
over with green ribbons; playing Croppies Get Up; Granny Whale; and
the like。 But; your hanner; though I went the whole hog with the
repalers and emancipators; they did not make their words good by
making a man of me。 Scant and sparing were they in the mate and
drink; and yet more sparing in the money; and Daniel O'Connell
never gave me the sovereign which he promised me。 No; your hanner;
though I played Croppies Get Up; till my fingers ached; as I
stumped before him and his mobs and processions; he never gave me
the sovereign: unlike your hanner who gave me the shilling ye
promised me for playing Croppies Lie Down; Daniel O'Connell never
gave me the sovereign he promised me for playing Croppies Get Up。
Och; your hanner; I often wished the ould Orange days were back
again。 However as I could do no better I continued going the whole
hog with the emancipators and repalers and Dan O'Connell; I went
the whole animal with them till they had got emancipation; and I
went the whole animal with them till they had nearly got repale …
when all of a sudden they let the whole thing drop … Dan and his
party having frighted the Government out of its seven senses; and
gotten all they could get; in money and places; which was all they
wanted; let the whole hullabaloo drop; and of course myself; who
formed part of it。 I went to those who had persuaded me to give up
my Orange tunes; and to play Papist ones; begging them to give me
work; but they tould me very civilly that they had no further
occasion for my services。 I went to Daniel O'Connell reminding him
of the sovereign he had promised me; and offering if he gave it me
to play Croppies Get Up under the nose of the lord…lieutenant
himself; but he tould me that he had not time to attend to me; and
when I persisted; bade me go to the Divil and shake myself。 Well;
your hanner; seeing no prospect for myself in my own country; and
having incurred some little debts; for which I feared to be
arrested; I came over to England and Wales; where with little
content and satisfaction I have passed seven years。〃
〃Well;〃 said I; 〃thank you for your history … farewell。〃
〃Stap; your hanner; does your hanner think that the Orange will
ever be out of the kennel; and that the Orange boys will ever walk
round the brass man and horse in College Green as they did of
ould?〃
〃Who knows?〃 said I。 〃But suppose all that were to happen; what
would it signify to you?〃
〃Why then divil be in my patten if I would not go back to
Donnybrook and Dublin; hoist the Orange cockade; and become as good
an Orange boy as ever。〃
〃What;〃 said I; 〃and give up Popery for the second time?〃
〃I would; your hanner; and why not? for in spite of what I have
heard Father Toban say; I am by no means certain that all
Protestants will be damned。〃
〃Farewell;〃 said I。
〃Farewell; your hanner; and long life and prosperity to you! God
bless your hanner and your Orange face。 Ah; the Orange boys are
the boys for keeping faith。 They never served me as Dan O'Connell
and his dirty gang of repalers and emancipators did。 Farewell;
your hanner; once more; and here's another scratch of the illigant
tune your hanner is so fond of; to cheer up your hanner's ears upon
your way。〃
And long after I had left him I could hear him playing on his
fiddle in first…rate style the beautiful tune of 〃Down; down;
Croppies Lie Down。〃
CHAPTER XXVI
Ceiniog Mawr … Pentre Voelas … The Old Conway … Stupendous Pass …
The Gwedir Family … Capel Curig … The Two Children … Bread …
Wonderful Echo … Tremendous Walker。
I WALKED on briskly over a flat uninteresting country; and in about
an hour's time came in front of a large stone house。 It stood near
the road; on the left…hand side; with a pond and pleasant trees
before it; and a number of corn…stacks behind。 It had something
the appearance of an inn; but displayed no sign。 As I was standing
looking at it; a man with the look of a labourer; and with a dog by
his side; came out of the house and advanced towards me。
〃What is the name of this place?〃 said I to him in English as he
drew nigh。
〃Sir;〃 said the man; 〃the name of the house is Ceiniog Mawr。〃
〃Is it an inn?〃 said I。
〃Not now; sir; but some years ago it was an inn; and a very large
one; at which coaches used to stop; at present it is occupied by an
amaethwr … that is a farmer; sir。〃
〃Ceiniog Mawr means a great penny;〃 said I; 〃why is it called by
that name?〃
〃I have heard; sir; that before it was an inn it was a very
considerable place; namely a royal mint; at which pennies were
made; and on that account it was called Ceiniog Mawr。〃
I was subsequently told that the name of this place was Cernioge
Mawr。 If such be the real name the legend about the mint falls to
the ground; Cernioge having nothing to do with pence。 Cern in
Welsh means a jaw。 Perhaps the true name of the house is Corniawg;
which interpreted is a place with plenty of turrets or chimneys。 A
mile or two further the ground began to rise; and I came to a small
village at the entrance of which was a water…wheel … near the
village was a gentleman's seat almost surrounded by groves。 After
I had passed through the village; seeing a woman seated by the
roadside knitting; I asked her in English its name。 Finding she
had no Saesneg I repeated the question in Welsh; whereupon she told
me that it was called Pentre Voelas。
〃And whom does the 'Plas' belong to yonder amongst the groves?〃
said I。
〃It belongs to Mr Wynn; sir; and so does the village and a great
deal of the land about here。 A very good gentleman is Mr Wynn;
sir; he is very kind to his tenants and a very good lady is Mrs
Wynn; sir; in the winter she gives much soup to the poor。〃
After leaving the village of Pentre Voelas I soon found myself in a
wild hilly region。 I crossed a bridge over a river; which;
brawling and tumbling amidst rocks; shaped its course to the north…
east。 As I proceeded; the country became more and more wild; there
were dingles and hollows in abundance; and fantastic…looking hills;
some of which were bare; and others clad with trees of various
kinds。 Came to a little well in a cavity; dug in a high bank on
the left…hand side of the road; and fenced by rude stone work on
either side; the well was about ten inches in diameter; and as many
deep。 Water oozing from the bank upon a slanting tile fast