wild wales-第75部分
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〃A pint of ale;〃 said I。
The man got up and with his pipe in his mouth went staggering out
of the room。 In about a minute he returned holding a mug in his
hand; which he put down on a table before me; spilling no slight
quantity of the liquor as he did so。 I put down three…pence on the
table。 He took the money up slowly piece by piece; looked at it
and appeared to consider; then taking the pipe out of his mouth he
dashed it to seven pieces against the table; then staggered out of
the room into the passage; and from thence apparently out of the
house。 I tasted the ale which was very good; then turning to the
woman who seemed about three…and…twenty and was rather good…
looking; I spoke to her in Welsh。
〃I have no Welsh; sir;〃 said she。
〃How is that?〃 said I; 〃this village is I think in the Welshery。〃
〃It is;〃 said she; 〃but I am from Shropshire。〃
〃Are you the mistress of the house?〃 said I。
〃No;〃 said she; 〃I am married to a collier;〃 then getting up she
said; 〃I must go and see after my husband。〃
〃Won't you take a glass of ale first?〃 said I; offering to fill a
glass which stood on the table。
〃No;〃 said she; 〃I am the worst in the world for a glass of ale;〃
and without saying anything more she departed。
〃I wonder whether your husband is anything like you with respect to
a glass of ale;〃 said I to myself; then finishing my ale I got up
and left the house; which when I departed appeared to be entirely
deserted。
It was now quite night; and it would have been pitchy…dark but for
the glare of forges。 There was an immense glare to the south…west;
which I conceived proceeded from those of Cefn Mawr。 It lighted up
the south…western sky; then there were two other glares nearer to
me; seemingly divided by a lump of something; perhaps a grove of
trees。
Walking very fast I soon overtook a man。 I knew him at once by his
staggering gait。
〃Ah; landlord!〃 said I; 〃whither bound?〃
〃To Rhiwabon;〃 said he; huskily; 〃for a pint。〃
〃Is the ale so good at Rhiwabon;〃 said I; 〃that you leave home for
it?〃
〃No;〃 said he; rather shortly; 〃there's not a glass of good ale in
Rhiwabon。〃
〃Then why do you go thither?〃 said I。
〃Because a pint of bad liquor abroad is better than a quart of good
at home;〃 said the landlord; reeling against the hedge。
〃There are many in a higher station than you who act upon that
principle;〃 thought I to myself as I passed on。
I soon reached Rhiwabon。 There was a prodigious noise in the
public…houses as I passed through it。 〃Colliers carousing;〃 said
I。 〃Well; I shall not go amongst them to preach temperance; though
perhaps in strict duty I ought。〃 At the end of the town; instead
of taking the road on the left side of the church; I took that on
the right。 It was not till I had proceeded nearly a mile that I
began to be apprehensive that I had mistaken the way。 Hearing some
people coming towards me on the road I waited till they came up;
they proved to be a man and a woman。 On my inquiring whether I was
right for Llangollen; the former told me that I was not; and in
order to get there it was necessary that I should return to
Rhiwabon。 I instantly turned round。 About half…way back I met a
man who asked me in English where I was hurrying to。 I said to
Rhiwabon; in order to get to Llangollen。 〃Well; then;〃 said he;
〃you need not return to Rhiwabon … yonder is a short cut across the
fields;〃 and he pointed to a gate。 I thanked him; and said I would
go by it; before leaving him I asked to what place the road led
which I had been following。
〃To Pentre Castren;〃 he replied。 I struck across the fields and
should probably have tumbled half…a…dozen times over pales and the
like; but for the light of the Cefn furnaces before me which cast
their red glow upon my path。 I debauched upon the Llangollen road
near to the tramway leading to the collieries。 Two enormous sheets
of flame shot up high into the air from ovens; illumining two
spectral chimneys as high as steeples; also smoky buildings; and
grimy figures moving about。 There was a clanging of engines; a
noise of shovels and a falling of coals truly horrible。 The glare
was so great that I could distinctly see the minutest lines upon my
hand。 Advancing along the tramway I obtained a nearer view of the
hellish buildings; the chimneys; and the demoniac figures。 It was
just such a scene as one of those described by Ellis Wynn in his
Vision of Hell。 Feeling my eyes scorching I turned away; and
proceeded towards Llangollen; sometimes on the muddy road;
sometimes on the dangerous causeway。 For three miles at least I
met nobody。 Near Llangollen; as I was walking on the causeway;
three men came swiftly towards me。 I kept the hedge; which was my
right; the two first brushed roughly past me; the third came full
upon me and was tumbled into the road。 There was a laugh from the
two first and a loud curse from the last as he sprawled in the
mire。 I merely said 〃Nos Da'ki;〃 and passed on; and in about a
quarter of an hour reached home; where I found my wife awaiting me
alone; Henrietta having gone to bed being slightly indisposed。 My
wife received me with a cheerful smile。 I looked at her and the
good wife of the Triad came to my mind。
〃She is modest; void of deceit; and obedient。
〃Pure of conscience; gracious of tongue; and true to her husband。
〃Her heart not proud; her manners affable; and her bosom full of
compassion for the poor。
〃Labouring to be tidy; skilful of hand; and fond of praying to God。
〃Her conversation amiable; her dress decent; and her house orderly。
〃Quick of hand; quick of eye; and quick of understanding。
〃Her person shapely; her manners agreeable; and her heart innocent。
〃Her face benignant; her head intelligent; and provident。
〃Neighbourly; gentle; and of a liberal way of thinking。
〃Able in directing; providing what is wanting; and a good mother to
her children。
〃Loving her husband; loving peace; and loving God。
〃Happy the man;〃 adds the Triad; 〃who possesses such a wife。〃 Very
true; O Triad; always provided he is in some degree worthy of her;
but many a man leaves an innocent wife at home for an impure
Jezebel abroad; even as many a one prefers a pint of hog's wash
abroad to a tankard of generous liquor at home。
CHAPTER LXIII
Preparations for Departure … Cat provided for … A Pleasant Party …
Last Night at Llangollen。
I WAS awakened early on the Sunday morning by the howling of wind。
There was a considerable storm throughout the day; but
unaccompanied by rain。 I went to church both in the morning and
the evening。 The next day there was a great deal of rain。 It was
now the latter end of October; winter was coming on; and my wife
and daughter were anxious to return home。 After some consultation
it was agreed that they should depart for London; and that I should
join them there after making a pedestrian tour in South Wales。
I should have been loth to quit Wales without visiting the
Deheubarth or Southern Region; a land differing widely; as I had
heard; both in language and customs from Gwynedd or the Northern; a
land which had given birth to the illustrious Ab Gwilym; and where
the great Ryce family had flourished; which very much distinguished
itself in the Wars of the Roses … a member of which Ryce ap Thomas
placed Henry the Seventh on the throne of Britain … a family of
royal extraction; and which after the death of Roderic the Great
for a long time enjoyed the sovereignty of the south。
We set about making the necessary preparations for our respective
journeys。 Those for mine were soon made。 I bought a small leather
satchel with a lock and key; in which I placed a white linen shirt;
a pair of worsted stockings; a razor and a prayer…book。 Along with
it I bought a leather strap with which to sling it over my
shoulder: I got my boots new soled; my umbrella; which was rather
dilapidated; mended; put twenty sovereigns into my purse; and then
said I am all right for the Deheubarth。
As my wife and daughter required much more time in making
preparations for their journey than I for mine; and as I should
only be in their way whilst they were employed; it was determined
that I should depart on my expedition on Thursday; and that they
should remain at Llangollen till the Saturday。
We were at first in some perplexity with respect to the disposal of
the ecclesiastical cat; it would of course not do to leave it in
the garden to the tender mercies of the Calvinistic Methodists of
the neighbourhood; more especially those of the flannel
manufactory; and my wife and daughter could hardly carry it with
them。 At length we thought of applying to a young woman of sound
church principles; who was lately married and lived over the water
on the way to the railroad station; with whom we were slightly
acquainted; to take charge of the animal; and she on the first
intimation of our wish; willingly acceded to it。 So with her poor
puss was left along with a trifle for its milk…money; and with her;
as we subsequently learned; it continued in peace and comfort till
one morning it sprang suddenly from the hearth into the air; gave a
mew; and died。 So much for the ecclesiastical cat!
The morning of Tuesday was rather fine; and Mr Ebenezer E…; who had
heard of our intended departure; came to invite us to spend the
evening at the Vicarage。 His father had left Llangollen the day
before for Chester; where he expected to be detained some days。 I
told him we should be most happy to come。 He then asked me to take
a walk。 I agreed with pleasure; and we set out; intending to go to
Llansilio at the western end of the valley and look at the church。
The church was an ancient building。 It had no spire; but had the
little erection on its roof; so usual to Welsh churches; for
holding a bell。
In the churchyard is a tomb in which an old squire of the name of
Jones was buried about the middle of the last century。 There is a
tradition about this squire and tomb to the following effect。
After the squire's death there was