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〃A pint of ale;〃 said I。

The man got up and with his pipe in his mouth went staggering out 
of the room。  In about a minute he returned holding a mug in his 
hand; which he put down on a table before me; spilling no slight 
quantity of the liquor as he did so。  I put down three…pence on the 
table。  He took the money up slowly piece by piece; looked at it 
and appeared to consider; then taking the pipe out of his mouth he 
dashed it to seven pieces against the table; then staggered out of 
the room into the passage; and from thence apparently out of the 
house。  I tasted the ale which was very good; then turning to the 
woman who seemed about three…and…twenty and was rather good…
looking; I spoke to her in Welsh。

〃I have no Welsh; sir;〃 said she。

〃How is that?〃 said I; 〃this village is I think in the Welshery。〃

〃It is;〃 said she; 〃but I am from Shropshire。〃

〃Are you the mistress of the house?〃 said I。

〃No;〃 said she; 〃I am married to a collier;〃 then getting up she 
said; 〃I must go and see after my husband。〃

〃Won't you take a glass of ale first?〃 said I; offering to fill a 
glass which stood on the table。

〃No;〃 said she; 〃I am the worst in the world for a glass of ale;〃 
and without saying anything more she departed。

〃I wonder whether your husband is anything like you with respect to 
a glass of ale;〃 said I to myself; then finishing my ale I got up 
and left the house; which when I departed appeared to be entirely 
deserted。

It was now quite night; and it would have been pitchy…dark but for 
the glare of forges。  There was an immense glare to the south…west; 
which I conceived proceeded from those of Cefn Mawr。  It lighted up 
the south…western sky; then there were two other glares nearer to 
me; seemingly divided by a lump of something; perhaps a grove of 
trees。

Walking very fast I soon overtook a man。  I knew him at once by his 
staggering gait。

〃Ah; landlord!〃 said I; 〃whither bound?〃

〃To Rhiwabon;〃 said he; huskily; 〃for a pint。〃

〃Is the ale so good at Rhiwabon;〃 said I; 〃that you leave home for 
it?〃

〃No;〃 said he; rather shortly; 〃there's not a glass of good ale in 
Rhiwabon。〃

〃Then why do you go thither?〃 said I。

〃Because a pint of bad liquor abroad is better than a quart of good 
at home;〃 said the landlord; reeling against the hedge。

〃There are many in a higher station than you who act upon that 
principle;〃 thought I to myself as I passed on。

I soon reached Rhiwabon。  There was a prodigious noise in the 
public…houses as I passed through it。  〃Colliers carousing;〃 said 
I。  〃Well; I shall not go amongst them to preach temperance; though 
perhaps in strict duty I ought。〃  At the end of the town; instead 
of taking the road on the left side of the church; I took that on 
the right。  It was not till I had proceeded nearly a mile that I 
began to be apprehensive that I had mistaken the way。  Hearing some 
people coming towards me on the road I waited till they came up; 
they proved to be a man and a woman。  On my inquiring whether I was 
right for Llangollen; the former told me that I was not; and in 
order to get there it was necessary that I should return to 
Rhiwabon。  I instantly turned round。  About half…way back I met a 
man who asked me in English where I was hurrying to。  I said to 
Rhiwabon; in order to get to Llangollen。  〃Well; then;〃 said he; 
〃you need not return to Rhiwabon … yonder is a short cut across the 
fields;〃 and he pointed to a gate。  I thanked him; and said I would 
go by it; before leaving him I asked to what place the road led 
which I had been following。

〃To Pentre Castren;〃 he replied。  I struck across the fields and 
should probably have tumbled half…a…dozen times over pales and the 
like; but for the light of the Cefn furnaces before me which cast 
their red glow upon my path。  I debauched upon the Llangollen road 
near to the tramway leading to the collieries。  Two enormous sheets 
of flame shot up high into the air from ovens; illumining two 
spectral chimneys as high as steeples; also smoky buildings; and 
grimy figures moving about。  There was a clanging of engines; a 
noise of shovels and a falling of coals truly horrible。  The glare 
was so great that I could distinctly see the minutest lines upon my 
hand。  Advancing along the tramway I obtained a nearer view of the 
hellish buildings; the chimneys; and the demoniac figures。  It was 
just such a scene as one of those described by Ellis Wynn in his 
Vision of Hell。  Feeling my eyes scorching I turned away; and 
proceeded towards Llangollen; sometimes on the muddy road; 
sometimes on the dangerous causeway。  For three miles at least I 
met nobody。  Near Llangollen; as I was walking on the causeway; 
three men came swiftly towards me。  I kept the hedge; which was my 
right; the two first brushed roughly past me; the third came full 
upon me and was tumbled into the road。  There was a laugh from the 
two first and a loud curse from the last as he sprawled in the 
mire。  I merely said 〃Nos Da'ki;〃 and passed on; and in about a 
quarter of an hour reached home; where I found my wife awaiting me 
alone; Henrietta having gone to bed being slightly indisposed。  My 
wife received me with a cheerful smile。  I looked at her and the 
good wife of the Triad came to my mind。

〃She is modest; void of deceit; and obedient。

〃Pure of conscience; gracious of tongue; and true to her husband。

〃Her heart not proud; her manners affable; and her bosom full of 
compassion for the poor。

〃Labouring to be tidy; skilful of hand; and fond of praying to God。

〃Her conversation amiable; her dress decent; and her house orderly。

〃Quick of hand; quick of eye; and quick of understanding。

〃Her person shapely; her manners agreeable; and her heart innocent。

〃Her face benignant; her head intelligent; and provident。

〃Neighbourly; gentle; and of a liberal way of thinking。

〃Able in directing; providing what is wanting; and a good mother to 
her children。

〃Loving her husband; loving peace; and loving God。

〃Happy the man;〃 adds the Triad; 〃who possesses such a wife。〃  Very 
true; O Triad; always provided he is in some degree worthy of her; 
but many a man leaves an innocent wife at home for an impure 
Jezebel abroad; even as many a one prefers a pint of hog's wash 
abroad to a tankard of generous liquor at home。



CHAPTER LXIII



Preparations for Departure … Cat provided for … A Pleasant Party … 
Last Night at Llangollen。


I WAS awakened early on the Sunday morning by the howling of wind。  
There was a considerable storm throughout the day; but 
unaccompanied by rain。  I went to church both in the morning and 
the evening。  The next day there was a great deal of rain。  It was 
now the latter end of October; winter was coming on; and my wife 
and daughter were anxious to return home。  After some consultation 
it was agreed that they should depart for London; and that I should 
join them there after making a pedestrian tour in South Wales。

I should have been loth to quit Wales without visiting the 
Deheubarth or Southern Region; a land differing widely; as I had 
heard; both in language and customs from Gwynedd or the Northern; a 
land which had given birth to the illustrious Ab Gwilym; and where 
the great Ryce family had flourished; which very much distinguished 
itself in the Wars of the Roses … a member of which Ryce ap Thomas 
placed Henry the Seventh on the throne of Britain … a family of 
royal extraction; and which after the death of Roderic the Great 
for a long time enjoyed the sovereignty of the south。

We set about making the necessary preparations for our respective 
journeys。  Those for mine were soon made。  I bought a small leather 
satchel with a lock and key; in which I placed a white linen shirt; 
a pair of worsted stockings; a razor and a prayer…book。  Along with 
it I bought a leather strap with which to sling it over my 
shoulder:  I got my boots new soled; my umbrella; which was rather 
dilapidated; mended; put twenty sovereigns into my purse; and then 
said I am all right for the Deheubarth。

As my wife and daughter required much more time in making 
preparations for their journey than I for mine; and as I should 
only be in their way whilst they were employed; it was determined 
that I should depart on my expedition on Thursday; and that they 
should remain at Llangollen till the Saturday。

We were at first in some perplexity with respect to the disposal of 
the ecclesiastical cat; it would of course not do to leave it in 
the garden to the tender mercies of the Calvinistic Methodists of 
the neighbourhood; more especially those of the flannel 
manufactory; and my wife and daughter could hardly carry it with 
them。  At length we thought of applying to a young woman of sound 
church principles; who was lately married and lived over the water 
on the way to the railroad station; with whom we were slightly 
acquainted; to take charge of the animal; and she on the first 
intimation of our wish; willingly acceded to it。  So with her poor 
puss was left along with a trifle for its milk…money; and with her; 
as we subsequently learned; it continued in peace and comfort till 
one morning it sprang suddenly from the hearth into the air; gave a 
mew; and died。  So much for the ecclesiastical cat!

The morning of Tuesday was rather fine; and Mr Ebenezer E…; who had 
heard of our intended departure; came to invite us to spend the 
evening at the Vicarage。  His father had left Llangollen the day 
before for Chester; where he expected to be detained some days。  I 
told him we should be most happy to come。  He then asked me to take 
a walk。  I agreed with pleasure; and we set out; intending to go to 
Llansilio at the western end of the valley and look at the church。  
The church was an ancient building。  It had no spire; but had the 
little erection on its roof; so usual to Welsh churches; for 
holding a bell。

In the churchyard is a tomb in which an old squire of the name of 
Jones was buried about the middle of the last century。  There is a 
tradition about this squire and tomb to the following effect。  
After the squire's death there was

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