wild wales-第87部分

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the　bwlch；　and　presently　came　to　a　place　where　the　two　waters　
joined。　　Just　below　the　confluence　on　a　fallen　tree　was　seated　a　
man　decently　dressed；　his　eyes　were　fixed　on　the　rushing　stream。　　I　
stopped　and　spoke　to　him。

He　had　no　English；　but　I　found　him　a　very　sensible　man。　　I　talked　
to　him　about　the　source　of　the　Dyfi。　　He　said　it　was　a　disputed　
point　which　was　the　source。　　He　himself　was　inclined　to　believe　
that　it　was　the　Pistyll　up　the　bwlch。　　I　asked　him　of　what　religion　
he　was。　　He　said　he　was　of　the　Church　of　England；　which　was　the　
Church　of　his　father　and　his　grandfather；　and　which　he　believed　to　
be　the　only　true　Church。　　I　inquired　if　it　flourished。　　He　said　it　
did；　but　that　it　was　dreadfully　persecuted　by　all　classes　of　
dissenters；　who；　though　they　were　continually　quarrelling　with　one　
another；　agreed　in　one　thing；　namely；　to　persecute　the　Church。　　I　
asked　him　if　he　ever　read。　　He　said　he　read　a　great　deal；　
especially　the　works　of　Huw　Morris；　and　that　reading　them　had　given　
him　a　love　for　the　sights　of　nature。　　He　added　that　his　greatest　
delight　was　to　come　to　the　place　where　he　then　was　of　an　evening；　
and　look　at　the　waters　and　hills。　　I　asked　him　what　trade　he　was。　　
〃The　trade　of　Joseph；〃　said　he；　smiling。　　〃Saer。〃　　〃Farewell；　
brother；〃　said　I；　〃I　am　not　a　carpenter；　but　like　you　I　read　the　
works　of　Huw　Morris　and　am　of　the　Church　of　England。〃　　I　then　shook　
him　by　the　hand　and　departed。

I　passed　a　village　with　a　stupendous　mountain　just　behind　it　to　the　
north；　which　I　was　told　was　called　Moel　Vrith　or　the　party…coloured　
moel。　　I　was　now　drawing　near　to　the　western　end　of　the　valley。　　
Scenery　of　the　wildest　and　most　picturesque　description　was　rife　
and　plentiful　to　a　degree：　　hills　were　here；　hills　were　there；　some　
tall　and　sharp；　others　huge　and　humpy；　hills　were　on　every　side；　
only　a　slight　opening　to　the　west　seemed　to　present　itself。　　〃What　
a　valley！〃　I　exclaimed。　　But　on　passing　through　the　opening　I　found　
myself　in　another；　wilder　and　stranger；　if　possible。　　Full　to　the　
west　was　a　long　hill　rising　up　like　the　roof　of　a　barn；　an　enormous　
round　hill　on　its　north…east　side；　and　on　its　south…east　the　tail　
of　the　range　which　I　had　long　had　on　my　left　…　there　were　trees　and　
groves　and　running　waters；　but　all　in　deep　shadow；　for　night　was　
now　close　at　hand。

〃What　is　the　name　of　this　place？〃　I　shouted　to　a　man　on　horseback；　
who　came　dashing　through　a　brook　with　a　woman　in　a　Welsh　dress　
behind　him。

〃Aber　Cowarch；　Saxon！〃　said　the　man　in　a　deep　guttural　voice；　and　
lashing　his　horse　disappeared　rapidly　in　the　night。

〃Aber　Cywarch！〃　I　cried；　springing　half　a　yard　into　the　air。　　〃Why；　
that's　the　place　where　Ellis　Wynn　composed　his　immortal　'Sleeping　
Bard；'　the　book　which　I　translated　in　the　blessed　days　of　my　youth。　　
Oh；　no　wonder　that　the　'Sleeping　Bard'　is　a　wild　and　wondrous　work；　
seeing　that　it　was　composed　amidst　the　wild　and　wonderful　scenes　
which　I　here　behold。〃

I　proceeded　onwards　up　an　ascent；　after　some　time　I　came　to　a　
bridge　across　a　stream；　which　a　man　told　me　was　called　Avon　Gerres。　　
It　runs　into　the　Dyfi；　coming　down　with　a　rushing　sound　from　a　wild　
vale　to　the　north…east　between　the　huge　barn…like　hill　and　Moel　
Vrith。　　The　barn…like　hill　I　was　informed　was　called　Pen　Dyn。　　I　
soon　reached　Dinas　Mawddwy；　which　stands　on　the　lower　part　of　a　
high　hill　connected　with　the　Pen　Dyn。　　Dinas；　trough　at　one　time　a　
place　of　considerable　importance；　if　we　may　judge　from　its　name；　
which　signifies　a　fortified　city；　is　at　present　little　more　than　a　
collection　of　filthy　huts。　　But　though　a　dirty　squalid　place；　I　
found　it　anything　but　silent　and　deserted。　　Fierce…looking；　red…
haired　men；　who　seemed　as　if　they　might　be　descendants　of　the　red…
haired　banditti　of　old；　were　staggering　about；　and　sounds　of　
drunken　revelry　echoed　from　the　huts。　　I　subsequently　learned　that　
Dinas　was　the　head…quarters　of　miners；　the　neighbourhood　abounding　
with　mines　both　of　lead　and　stone。　　I　was　glad　to　leave　it　behind　
me。　　Mallwyd　is　to　the　south　of　Dinas　…　the　way　to　it　is　by　a　
romantic　gorge　down　which　flows　the　Royal　Dyfi。　　As　I　proceeded　
along　this　gorge　the　moon　rising　above　Moel　Vrith　illumined　my　
path。　　In　about　half…an…hour　I　found　myself　before　the　inn　at　
Mallwyd。



CHAPTER　LXXV



Inn　at　Mallwyd　…　A　Dialogue　…　The　Cumro。


I　ENTERED　the　inn；　and　seeing　a　comely…looking　damsel　at　the　bar；　I　
told　her　that　I　was　in　need　of　supper　and　a　bed。　　She　conducted　me　
into　a　neat　sanded　parlour；　where　a　good　fire　was　blazing；　and　
asked　me　what　I　would　have　for　supper。　　〃Whatever　you　can　most　
readily　provide；〃　said　I；　〃I　am　not　particular。〃　　The　maid　retired；　
and　taking　off　my　hat；　and　disencumbering　myself　of　my　satchel；　I　
sat　down　before　the　fire　and　fell　into　a　doze；　in　which　I　dreamed　
of　some　of　the　wild　scenes　through　which　I　had　lately　passed。

I　dozed　and　dozed　till　I　was　roused　by　the　maid　touching　me　on　the　
shoulder　and　telling　me　that　supper　was　ready。　　I　got　up　and　
perceived　that　during　my　doze　she　had　laid　the　cloth　and　put　supper　
upon　the　table。　　It　consisted　of　bacon　and　eggs。　　During　supper　I　
had　some　conversation　with　the　maid。

MYSELF。　…　Are　you　a　native　of　this　place？

MAID。　…　I　am　not；　sir；　I　come　from　Dinas。

MYSELF。　…　Are　your　parents　alive？

MAID。　…　My　mother　is　alive；　sir；　but　my　father　is　dead。

MYSELF。　…　Where　does　your　mother　live？

MAID。　…　At　Dinas；　sir。

MYSELF。　…　How　does　she　support　herself？

MAID。　…　By　letting　lodgings　to　miners；　sir。

MYSELF。　…　Are　the　miners　quiet　lodgers？

MAID。　…　Not　always；　sir；　sometimes　they　get　up　at　night　and　fight　
with　each　other。

MYSELF。　…　What　does　your　mother　do　on　those　occasions？

MAID。　…　She　draws　the　quilt　over　her　head；　and　says　her　prayers；　
sir。

MYSELF。　…　Why　doesn't　she　get　up　and　part　them？

MAID。　…　Lest　she　should　get　a　punch　or　a　thwack　for　her　trouble；　
sir。

MYSELF。　…　Of　what　religion　are　the　miners？

MAID。　…　They　are　Methodists；　if　they　are　anything；　but　they　don't　
trouble　their　heads　much　about　religion。

MYSELF。　…　Of　what　religion　are　you？

MAID。　…　I　am　of　the　Church；　sir。

MYSELF。　…　Did　you　always　belong　to　the　Church？

MAID。　…　Not　always。　　When　I　was　at　Dinas　I　used　to　hear　the　
preacher；　but　since　I　have　been　here　I　have　listened　to　the　
clergyman。

MYSELF。　…　Is　the　clergyman　here　a　good　man？

MAID。　…　A　very　good　man　indeed；　sir。　　He　lives　close　by。　　Shall　I　
go　and　tell　him　you　want　to　speak　to　him？

MYSELF。　…　Oh　dear　me；　no！　　He　can　employ　his　time　much　more　
usefully　than　in　waiting　upon　me。

After　supper　I　sat　quiet　for　about　an　hour。　　Then　ringing　the　bell；　
I　inquired　of　the　maid　whether　there　was　a　newspaper　in　the　house。　　
She　told　me　there　was　not；　but　that　she　thought　she　could　procure　
me　one。　　In　a　little　time　she　brought　me　a　newspaper；　which　she　
said　she　had　borrowed　at　the　parsonage。　　It　was　the　CUMRO；　an　
excellent　Welsh　journal　written　in　the　interest　of　the　Church。　　In　
perusing　its　columns　I　passed　a　couple　of　hours　very　agreeably；　and　
then　went　to　bed。



CHAPTER　LXXVI



Mallwyd　and　its　Church　…　Sons　of　Shoemakers　…　Village　Inn　…　
Dottings。


THE　next　day　was　the　thirty…first　of　October；　and　was　rather　fine　
for　the　season。　　As　I　did　not　intend　to　journey　farther　this　day　
than　Machynlleth；　a　principal　town　in　Montgomeryshire；　distant　only　
twelve　miles；　I　did　not　start　from　Mallwyd　till　just　before　noon。

Mallwyd　is　a　small　but　pretty　village。　　The　church　is　a　long　
edifice　standing　on　a　slight　elevation　on　the　left　of　the　road。　　
Its　pulpit　is　illustrious　from　having　for　many　years　been　occupied　
by　one　of　the　very　celebrated　men　of　Wales；　namely　Doctor　John　
Davies；　author　of　the　great　Welsh　and　Latin　dictionary；　an　
imperishable　work。　　An　immense　yew　tree　grows　in　the　churchyard；　
and　partly　overshadows　the　road　with　its　branches。　　The　parsonage　
stands　about　a　hundred　yards　to　the　south　of　the　church；　near　a　
grove　of　firs。　　The　village　is　overhung　on　the　north　by　the　
mountains　of　the　Arran　range；　from　which　it　is　separated　by　the　
murmuring　Dyfi。　　To　the　south　for　many　miles　the　country　is　not　
mountainous；　but　presents　a　pleasant　variety　of　hill　and　dale。

After　leaving　the　village　a　little　way　behind　me　I　turned　round　to　
take　a　last　view　of　the　wonderful　region　from　which　I　had　emerged　
on　the　previous　evening。　　Forming　the　two　sides　of　the　pass　down　
which　comes　〃the　royal　river〃　stood　the　Dinas　mountain　and　Cefn　
Coch；　the　first　on　the　left；　and　the　other　on　the　right。　　Behind；　
forming　the　background　of　the　pass；　appearing；　though　now　some　
miles　distant；　almost　in　my　proximity；　stood　Pen　Dyn。　　This　hill　
has　various　names；　but　the　one　which　I　have　noted　here；　and　which　
signifies　the　head　of　a　man；　perhaps　describes　it　best。　　From　where　
I　looked　at　it　on　that　last　day　of　October　it　certainly　looked　like　
an　enormous　head；　and　put　me　in　mind　of　the　head　of　Mambrino；　
mentioned　in　the　master　work　which　commemorates　the　achievements　of　
the　Manchegan　knight。　　This　mighty　mountain　is　the　birthplace　of　
more　than　one　river。　　If　the　Gerres　issues　from　its　eastern　side；　
from　its　western　springs　the　Maw；　that　singularly　picturesque　
stream；　which　enters　the　ocean　at　the　place　which　the　Saxons　
corruptly　call　Barmouth　and　the　Cumry　with　great　propriety　Aber　
Maw；　or　the　disemboguement　of　the　Maw。

Just　as　I　was　about　to　pursue　my　journey　two　boys　came　up；　bound　in　
the　same　direction　as　myself。　　One　was　a　large　boy　dressed　in　a　
waggoner's　frock；　the　other　was　a　little　fellow　in　a　brown　coat　and　
yellowish　trowsers。　　As　we　walked　along　together　I　entered　into　
conversation　with　them。　　They　came　from　Dinas　Mawddwy。　　The　large　
boy　told　me　that　he　was　the　son　of　a　man　who　carted　mwyn　or　lead　
ore；　and　the　little　fellow　that　he　was　the　son　of　a　shoemaker。　　The　
latter　was　by　far　the　cleverest；　and　no　wonder；　for　the　son　of　
shoemakers　are　always　clever；　which　assertion　should　anybody　doubt　
I　beg　him　to　attend　the　examinations　at　Cambridge；　at　which　he　will　
find　that　in　three　cases　out　of　four　the　senior　wranglers　are　the　
sons　of　shoemakers。　　From　this　littl