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We came to a cottage standing under a hillock; down the side of 
which tumbled a streamlet close by the northern side of the 
building。  The door was open; and inside were two or three females 
and some children。  〃Have you any enwyn?〃 said the lad; peeping in。

〃Oh yes!〃 said a voice … 〃digon! digon!〃  Presently a buxom; 
laughing girl brought out two dishes of buttermilk; one of which 
she handed to me and the other to the guide。  I asked her the name 
of the place。

〃Gwen Frwd … the 'Fair Rivulet;'〃 said she。

〃Who lives here?〃

〃A shepherd。〃

〃Have you any English?〃

〃Nagos!〃 said she; bursting into a loud laugh。  〃What should we do 
with English here?〃 After we had drunk the buttermilk I offered the 
girl some money; but she drew back her hand angrily; and said:  〃We 
don't take money from tired strangers for two drops of buttermilk; 
there's plenty within; and there are a thousand ewes on the hill。  
Farvel!〃

〃Dear me!〃 thought I to myself as I walked away; 〃that I should 
once in my days have found shepherd life something as poets have 
represented it!〃

I saw a mighty mountain at a considerable distance on the right; 
the same I believe which I had noted some hours before。  I inquired 
of my guide whether it was Plynlimmon。

〃Oh no!〃 said he; 〃that is Gaverse; Pumlimmon is to the left。〃

〃Plynlimmon is a famed hill;〃 said I; 〃I suppose it is very high。〃

〃Yes!〃 said he; 〃it is high; but it is not famed because it is 
high; but because the three grand rivers of the world issue from 
its breast; the Hafren; the Rheidol; and the Gwy。〃

Night was now coming rapidly on; attended with a drizzling rain。  I 
inquired if we were far from Pont Erwyd。  〃About a mile;〃 said my 
guide; 〃we shall soon be there。〃  We quickened our pace。  After a 
little time he asked me if I was going farther than Pont Erwyd。

〃I am bound for the bridge of the evil man;〃 said I; 〃but I daresay 
I shall stop at Pont Erwyd to…night。〃

〃You will do right;〃 said he; 〃it is only three miles from Pont 
Erwyd to the bridge of the evil man; but I think we shall have a 
stormy night。〃

〃When I get to Pont Erwyd;〃 said I; 〃how far shall I be from South 
Wales?〃

〃From South Wales!〃 said he; 〃you are in South Wales now; you 
passed the Terfyn of North Wales a quarter of an hour ago。〃

The rain now fell fast and there was so thick a mist that I could 
only see a few yards before me。  We descended into a valley; at the 
bottom of which I heard a river roaring。

〃That's the Rheidol;〃 said my guide; 〃coming from Pumlimmon; 
swollen with rain。〃

Without descending to the river; we turned aside up a hill; and; 
after passing by a few huts; came to a large house; which my guide 
told me was the inn of Pont Erwyd。



CHAPTER LXXXII



Consequential Landlord … Cheek … Darfel Gatherel … Dafydd Nanmor … 
Sheep Farms … Wholesome Advice … The Old Postman … The Plant de Bat 
… The Robber's Cavern。


MY guide went to a side door; and opening it without ceremony went 
in。  I followed and found myself in a spacious and comfortable…
looking kitchen:  a large fire blazed in a huge grate; on one side 
of which was a settle; plenty of culinary utensils; both pewter and 
copper; hung around on the walls; and several goodly rows of hams 
and sides of bacon were suspended from the roof。  There were 
several people present; some on the settle and others on chairs in 
the vicinity of the fire。  As I advanced; a man arose from a chair 
and came towards me。  He was about thirty…five years of age; well 
and strongly made; with a fresh complexion; a hawk nose; and a keen 
grey eye。  He wore top…boots and breeches; a half jockey coat; and 
had a round cap made of the skin of some animal on his head。

 〃Servant; sir!〃 said he in rather a sharp tone; and surveying me 
with something of a supercilious air。

〃Your most obedient humble servant!〃 said I; 〃I presume you are the 
landlord of this house。〃

〃Landlord!〃 said he; 〃landlord!  It is true I receive guests 
sometimes into my house; but I do so solely with the view of 
accommodating them; I do not depend upon innkeeping for a 
livelihood。  I hire the principal part of the land in this 
neighbourhood。〃

〃If that be the case;〃 said I; 〃I had better continue my way to the 
Devil's Bridge; I am not at all tired; and I believe it is not very 
far distant。〃

〃Oh; as you are here;〃 said the farmer…landlord; 〃I hope you will 
stay。  I should be very sorry if any gentleman should leave my 
house at night after coming with an intention of staying; more 
especially in a night like this。  Martha!〃 said he; turning to a 
female between thirty and forty … who I subsequently learned was 
the mistress … 〃prepare the parlour instantly for this gentleman; 
and don't fail to make up a good fire。〃

Martha forthwith hurried away; attended by a much younger female。

〃Till your room is prepared; sir;〃 said he; 〃perhaps you will have 
no objection to sit down before our fire?〃

〃Not the least;〃 said I; 〃nothing gives me greater pleasure than to 
sit before a kitchen fire。  First of all; however; I must settle 
with my guide; and likewise see that he has something to eat and 
drink。〃

〃Shall I interpret for you?〃 said the landlord; 〃the lad has not a 
word of English; I know him well。〃

〃I have not been under his guidance for the last three hours;〃 said 
I; 〃without knowing that he cannot speak English; but I want no 
interpreter。〃

〃You do not mean to say; sir;〃 said the landlord; with a surprised 
and dissatisfied air; 〃that you understand Welsh?〃

I made no answer; but turning to the guide thanked him for his 
kindness; and giving him some money asked him if it was enough。

〃More than enough; sir;〃 said the lad; 〃I did not expect half as 
much。  Farewell!〃

He was then about to depart; but I prevented him saying:

〃You must not go till you have eaten and drunk。  What will you 
have?〃

〃Merely a cup of ale; sir;〃 said the lad。

〃That won't do;〃 said I; 〃you shall have bread and cheese and as 
much ale as you can drink。  Pray;〃 said I to the landlord; 〃let 
this young man have some bread and cheese and a large quart of 
ale。〃

The landlord looked at me for a moment; then turning to the lad he 
said:

〃What do you think of that; Shon?  It is some time since you had a 
quart of ale to your own cheek。〃

〃Cheek;〃 said I … 〃cheek!  Is that a Welsh word?  Surely it is an 
importation from the English; and not a very genteel one。〃

〃Oh come; sir!〃 said the landlord; 〃we can dispense with your 
criticisms。  A pretty thing indeed for you; on the strength of 
knowing half…a…dozen words of Welsh; to set up for a Welsh critic 
in the house of a person who knows the ancient British language 
perfectly。〃

〃Dear me!〃 said I; 〃how fortunate I am! a person thoroughly versed 
in the ancient British language is what I have long wished to see。  
Pray what is the meaning of Darfel Gatherel?〃

〃Oh sir!〃 said the landlord; 〃you must answer that question 
yourself; I don't pretend to understand gibberish!〃

〃Darfel Gatherel;〃 said I; 〃is not gibberish; it was the name of 
the great wooden image at Ty Dewi; or Saint David's; in 
Pembrokeshire; to which thousands of pilgrims in the days of popery 
used to repair for the purpose of adoring it; and which at the time 
of the Reformation was sent up to London as a curiosity; where it 
eventually served as firewood to burn the monk Forrest upon; who 
was sentenced to the stake by Henry the Eighth for denying his 
supremacy。  What I want to know is; the meaning of the name; which 
I could never get explained; but which you who know the ancient 
British language perfectly can doubtless interpret。〃

〃Oh; sir;〃 said the landlord; 〃when I said I knew the British 
language perfectly; I perhaps went too far there are; of course; 
some obsolete terms in the British tongue; which I don't 
understand。  Dar; Dar … what is it?  Darmod Cotterel amongst the 
rest; but to a general knowledge of the Welsh language I think I 
may lay some pretensions; were I not well acquainted with it; I 
should not have carried off the prize at various eisteddfodau; as I 
have done。  I am a poet; sir … a prydydd。〃

〃It is singular enough;〃 said I; 〃that the only two Welsh poets I 
have seen have been innkeepers … one is yourself; the other a 
person I met in Anglesey。  I suppose the Muse is fond of cwrw da。〃

〃You would fain be pleasant; sir;〃 said the landlord; 〃but I beg 
leave to inform you that I am not fond of pleasantries; and now; as 
my wife and the servant are returned; I will have the pleasure of 
conducting you to the parlour。〃

〃Before I go;〃 said I; 〃I should like to see my guide provided with 
what I ordered。〃  I stayed till the lad was accommodated with bread 
and cheese and a foaming tankard of ale; and then bidding him 
farewell; I followed the landlord into the parlour; where I found a 
fire kindled; which; however; smoked exceedingly。  I asked my host 
what I could have for supper; and was told that he did not know; 
but that if I would leave the matter to him he would send the best 
he could。  As he was going away; I said:  〃So you are a poet?  
Well; I am very glad to hear it; for I have been fond of Welsh 
poetry from my boyhood。  What kind of verse do you employ in 
general?  Did you ever write an awdl in the four…and…twenty 
measures?  What are the themes of your songs?  The deeds of the 
ancient heroes of South Wales; I suppose; and the hospitality of 
the great men of the neighbourhood who receive you as an honoured 
guest at their tables。  I'll bet a guinea that however clever a 
fellow you may be you never sang anything in praise of your 
landlord's housekeeping equal to what Dafydd Nanmor sang in praise 
of that of Ryce of Twyn four hundred years ago:


'For Ryce if hundred thousands plough'd
The lands around his fair abode;
Did vines of thousand vineyards bleed;
Still corn and wine great Ryce would need;
If all the earth had bread's sweet savour;
And water all had cyder's flavour;
Three roaring feasts in Ryce's hall
Would swallow earth and ocean all。'


Hey?〃

〃Really; sir;〃 said the landlord; 〃I don't know how to reply to 

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