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the expedition of humphry clinker-第60部分

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of the Clyde and Leven; ten miles below Glasgow。 The same
neighbourhood gave birth to St Patrick; the apostle of Ireland;
at a place where there is still a church and village; which
retain his name。 Hard by are some vestiges of the famous Roman
wall; built in the reign of Antonine; from the Clyde to the
Forth; and fortified with castles; to restrain the incursions of
the Scots or Caledonians; who inhabited the West…Highlands。 In a
line parallel to this wall; the merchants of Glasgow have
determined to make a navigable canal betwixt the two Firths which
will be of incredible advantage to their commerce; in
transporting merchandize from one side of the island to the
other。

From Glasgow we travelled along the Clyde; which is a delightful
stream; adorned on both sides with villas; towns; and villages。
Here is no want of groves; and meadows; and corn…fields
interspersed; but on this side of Glasgow; there is little other
grain than oats and barley; the first are much better; the last
much worse; than those of the same species in England。 I wonder;
there is so little rye; which is a grain that will thrive in
almost any soil; and it is still more surprising; that the
cultivation of potatoes should be so much neglected in the
Highlands; where the poor people have not meal enough to supply
them with bread through the winter。 On the other side of the
river are the towns of Paisley and Renfrew。 The first; from an
inconsiderable village; is become one of the most flourishing
places of the kingdom; enriched by the linen; cambrick; flowered
lawn; and silk manufactures。 It was formerly noted for a rich
monastery of the monks of Clugny; who wrote the famous Scoti…Chronicon;
called The Black Book of Paisley。 The old abbey still
remains; converted into a dwelling…house; belonging to the earl
of Dundonald。 Renfrew is a pretty town; on the banks of Clyde;
capital of the shire; which was heretofore the patrimony of the
Stuart family; and gave the title of baron to the king's eldest
son; which is still assumed by the prince of Wales。

The Clyde we left a little on our left…hand at Dunbritton; where
it widens into an aestuary or frith; being augmented by the
influx of the Leven。 On this spot stands the castle formerly
called Alcluyd; washed; by these two rivers on all sides; except
a narrow isthmus; which at every spring…tide is overflowed。 The
whole is a great curiosity; from the quality and form of the
rock; as well as from the nature of its situation  We now crossed
the water of Leven; which; though nothing near so considerable as
the Clyde; is much more transparent; pastoral; and delightful。
This charming stream is the outlet of Lough…Lomond; and through a
tract of four miles pursues its winding course; murmuring over a
bed of pebbles; till it joins the Frith at Dunbritton。 A very
little above its source; on the lake; stands the house of
Cameron; belonging to Mr Smollett; so embosomed in an oak wood;
that we did not see it till we were within fifty yards of the
door。 I have seen the Lago di Garda; Albano; De Vico; Bolsena;
and Geneva; and; upon my honour; I prefer Lough…Lomond to them
all; a preference which is certainly owing to the verdant islands
that seem to float upon its surface; affording the most
inchanting objects of repose to the excursive view。 Nor are the
banks destitute of beauties; which even partake of the sublime。
On this side they display a sweet variety of woodland; cornfield;
and pasture; with several agreeable villas emerging as it were
out of the lake; till; at some distance; the prospect terminates
in huge mountains covered with heath; which being in the bloom;
affords a very rich covering of purple。 Every thing here is
romantic beyond imagination。 This country is justly stiled the
Arcadia of Scotland; and I don't doubt but it may vie with
Arcadia in every thing but climate。  I am sure it excels it in
verdure; wood; and water。  What say you to a natural bason of
pure water; near thirty miles long; and in some places seven
miles broad; and in many above a hundred fathom deep; having four
and twenty habitable islands; some of them stocked with deer; and
all of them covered with wood; containing immense quantities of
delicious fish; salmon; pike; trout; perch; flounders; eels; and
powans; the last a delicate kind of fresh…water herring peculiar
to this lake; and finally communicating with the sea; by sending
off the Leven; through which all those species (except the powan)
make their exit and entrance occasionally?

Inclosed I send you the copy of a little ode to this river; by Dr
Smollett; who was born on the banks of it; within two miles of
the place where I am now writing。  It is at least picturesque and
accurately descriptive; if it has no other merit。  There is an
idea of truth in an agreeable landscape taken from nature; which
pleases me more than the gayest fiction which the most luxuriant
fancy can display。

I have other remarks to make; but as my paper is full; I must
reserve them till the next occasion。 I shall only observe at
present; that I am determined to penetrate at least forty miles
into the Highlands; which now appear like a vast fantastic vision
in the clouds; inviting the approach of

Yours always;
MATT。 BRAMBLE
CAMERON; Aug。 28。

ODE TO LEVEN…WATER

On Leven's banks; while free to rove;
And tune the rural pipe to love;
I envied not the happiest swain
That ever trod th' Arcadian plain。

Pure stream! in whose transparent wave
My youthful limbs I wont to lave;
No torrents stain thy limpid source;
No rocks impede thy dimpling course;
That sweetly warbles o'er its bed;
With white; round; polish'd pebbles spread;
While; lightly pois'd; the scaly brood
In myriads cleave thy crystal flood;
The springing trout in speckled pride;
The salmon; monarch of the tide;
The ruthless pike; intent on war;
The silver eel; and motled par。*

Devolving from thy parent lake;
A charming maze thy waters make;
By bow'rs of birch; and groves of pine;
And hedges flow'r'd with eglantine。

Still on thy banks so gayly green;
May num'rous herds and flocks be seen;
And lasses chanting o'er the pail;
And shepherds piping in the dale;
And ancient faith that knows no guile;
And industry imbrown'd with toil;
And hearts resolv'd; and hands prepar'd;
The blessings they enjoy to guard。

* The par is a small fish; not unlike the smelt; which it rivals
in delicacy and flavour。



To Dr LEWIS。

DEAR DOCTOR;

If I was disposed to be critical; I should say this house of
Cameron is too near the lake; which approaches; on one side; to
within six or seven yards of the window。 It might have been
placed in a higher site; which would have afforded a more
extensive prospect and a drier atmosphere; but this imperfection
is not chargeable on the present proprietor; who purchased it
ready built; rather than be at the trouble of repairing his own
family…house of Bonhill; which stands two miles from hence on the
Leven; so surrounded with plantation; that it used to be known by
the name of the Mavis (or thrush) Nest。 Above that house is a
romantic glen or clift of a mountain; covered with hanging woods
having at bottom a stream of fine water that forms a number of
cascades in its descent to join the Leven; so that the scene is
quite enchanting。 A captain of a man of war; who had made the
circuit of the globe with Mr Anson; being conducted to this glen;
exclaimed; 'Juan Fernandez; by God!'

Indeed; this country would be a perfect paradise; if it was not;
like Wales; cursed with a weeping climate; owing to the same
cause in both; the neighbourhood of high mountains; and a
westerly situation; exposed to the vapours of the Atlantic ocean。
This air; however; notwithstanding its humidity; is so healthy;
that the natives are scarce ever visited by any other disease
than the smallpox; and certain cutaneous evils; which are the
effects of dirty living; the great and general reproach of the
commonalty of this kingdom。 Here are a great many living
monuments of longaevity; and among the rest a person; whom I
treat with singular respect; as a venerable druid; who has lived
near ninety years; without pain or sickness; among oaks of his
own planting。  He was once proprietor of these lands; but being
of a projecting spirit; some of his schemes miscarried; and he
was obliged to part with his possession; which hath shifted hands
two or three times since that period; but every succeeding
proprietor hath done every thing in his power; to make his old
age easy and comfortable。 He has a sufficiency to procure the
necessaries of life; and he and his old woman reside in a small
convenient farm…house; having a little garden which he cultivates
with his own hands。 This ancient couple live in great health;
peace; and harmony; and; knowing no wants; enjoy the perfection
of content。 Mr Smollet calls him the admiral; because he insists
upon steering his pleasure…boat upon the lake; and he spends most
of his time in ranging through the woods; which he declares he
enjoys as much as if they were still his own property  I asked
him the other day; if he was never sick; and he answered; Yes;
he had a slight fever the year before the union。 If he was not
deaf; I should take much pleasure in his conversation; for he is
very intelligent; and his memory is surprisingly retentive  These
are the happy effects of temperance; exercise; and good nature 
Notwithstanding all his innocence; however; he was the cause of
great perturbation to my man Clinker; whose natural superstition
has been much injured; by the histories of witches; fairies;
ghosts; and goblins; which he has heard in this country  On the
evening after our arrival; Humphry strolled into the wood; in the
course of his meditation; and all at once the admiral stood
before him; under the shadow of a spreading oak。 Though the
fellow is far from being timorous in cases that are not supposed
preternatural; he could not stand the sight of this apparition;
but ran into the kitchen; with his hair standing on end; staring
wildly; and deprived of utterance。 Mrs Jenkins; seeing him in
this condition; screamed aloud; 'Lord have mercy upon us; he has
seen something!' Mrs Tabitha wa

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