an autobiography-第31部分

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y。

I　did　not　take　the　shortest　route　on　my　return　journey　to　London。　I　desired　to　pass　through　the　most　interesting　and　picturesque　places　without　unduly　diverging　from　the　right　direction。　　I　wished　to　see　the　venerable　buildings　and　cathedrals　of　the　olden　time；　as　well　as　the　engineering　establishments　of　the　new。　　Notwithstanding　my　love　for　mechanics　I　still　retained　a　spice　of　the　antiquarian　feeling。　It　enabled　me　to　look　back　to　the　remote　past；　into　the　material　records　of　man's　efforts　hundreds　of　years　ago；　and　contrast　them　with　the　modern　progress　of　arts　and　sciences。　　I　was　especially　interested　in　the　architecture　of　bygone　ages；　but　here；　alas！　arts　and　sciences　have　done　nothing。　　Modern　Gothic　architecture　is　merely　an　imitation　of　the　old；　and　often　a　very　bad　imitation。　　Even　ancient　domestic　architecture　is　much　superior　to　the　modern。　　We　can　now　only　imitate　it；　and　often　spoil　when　imitating。

I　left　Manchester　and　turned　my　steps　in　the　direction　of　Coalbrookdale。　I　passed　through　a　highly　picturesque　country；　in　which　I　enjoyed　the　sight　of　many　old　timber　houses；　most　attractive　subjects　for　my　pencil。　My　route　lay　through　Whitchurch；　Wem；　and　Wellington；　then　past　the　Wrekin　to　Coalbrookdale。　　Before　arriving　there　I　saw　the　first　iron　bridge　constructed　in　England；　an　object　of　historical　interest　in　that　class　of　structures。　　It　was　because　of　the　superb　quality　of　the　castings　produced　at　Coalbrookdale　that　the　ironmasters　there　were　able　to　accomplish　the　building　of　a　bridge　of　that　material；　which　before　had　baffled　all　projectors　both　at　home　and　abroad

I　possessed　a　letter　of　introduction　to　the　manager；　and　was　received　by　him　most　cordially。　　He　permitted　me　to　examine　the　works。　I　was　greatly　interested　at　the　sight　of　the　processes　of　casting。　Many　beautiful　objects　were　turned　out　for　architectural；　domestic；　and　other　purposes。　　I　saw　nothing　particularly　novel；　however；　in　the　methods　and　processes　of　moulding　and　casting。

The　excellence　of　the　work　depended　for　the　most　part　upon　the　great　care　and　skill　exercised　by　the　workmen　of　the　foundry。　　They　seemed　to　vie　with　each　other　in　turning　out　the　best　castings；　and　their　models　or　patterns　were　made　with　the　utmost　care。　　I　was　particularly　impressed　with　the　cheerful　zeal　and　activity　of　the　workmen　and　foremen　of　this　justly　celebrated　establishment。

On　leaving　Coalbrookdale　I　trudged　my　way　towards　Wolverhampton。　I　rested　at　Shiffnal　for　the　night。　　Next　day　I　was　in　the　middle　of　the　Black　Country。　　I　had　no　letters　of　introduction　to　employers　in　Wolverhampton；　so　that；　without　stopping　there；　I　proceeded　at　once　to　Dudley。　　The　Black　Country　is　anything　but　picturesque。　　The　earth　seems　to　have　been　turned　inside　out。　　Its　entrails　are　strewn　about；　nearly　the　entire　surface　of　the　ground　is　covered　with　cinder…heaps　and　mounds　of　scoriae。　　The　coal　which　has　been　drawn　from　below　ground　is　blazing　on　the　surface。　　The　district　is　crowded　with　iron　furnaces；　puddling　furnaces；　and　coal…pit　engine　furnaces。　　By　day　and　by　night　the　country　is　glowing　with　fire；　and　the　smoke　of　the　ironworks　hovers　over　it。　　There　is　a　rumbling　and　clanking　of　iron　forges　and　rolling　mills。　　Workmen　covered　with　smut；　and　with　fierce　white　eyes；　are　seen　moving　about　amongst　the　glowing　iron　and　the　dull　thud　of　forge…hammers。　Amidst　these　flaming；　smoky；　clanging　works；　I　beheld　the　remains　of　what　had　once　been　happy　farmhouses；　now　ruined　and　deserted。　The　ground　underneath　them　had　sunk　by　the　working　out　of　the　coal；　and　they　were　falling　to　pieces。　　They　had　in　former　times　been　surrounded　by　clumps　of　trees；　but　only　the　skeletons　of　them　remained；　dead；　black；　and　leafless。　　The　grass　had　been　parched　and　killed　by　the　vapours　of　sulphurous　acid　thrown　out　by　the　chimneys；　and　every　herbaceous　object　was　of　a　ghastly　graythe　emblem　of　vegetable　death　in　its　saddest　aspect。　　Vulcan　had　driven　out　Ceres。　　In　some　places　I　heard　a　sort　of　chirruping　sound；　as　of　some　forlorn　bird　haunting　the　ruins　of　the　old　farmsteads。　　But　no！　the　chirrup　was　a　vile　delusion。　　It　proceeded　from　the　shrill　creaking　of　the　coal…winding　chains；　which　were　placed　in　small　tunnels　beneath　the　hedgeless　road。

I　went　into　some　of　the　forges　to　see　the　workmen　at　their　labours。　There　was　no　need　of　introduction；　the　works　were　open　to　all；　for　they　were　unsurrounded　by　walls。　　I　saw　the　white…hot　iron　run　out　from　the　furnace；　I　saw　it　spun；　as　it　were；　into　bars　and　iron　ribbands；　with　an　ease　and　rapidity　which　seemed　marvellous。　　There　were　also　the　ponderous　hammers　and　clanking　rolling…mills。　　I　wandered　from　one　to　another　without　restraint。　　I　lingered　among　the　blast　furnaces；　seeing　the　flood　of　molten　iron　run　out　from　time　to　time；　and　remained　there　until　it　was　late。　　When　it　became　dark　the　scene　was　still　more　impressive。　　The　workmen　within　seemed　to　be　running　about　amidst　the　flames　as　in　a　pandemonium；　while　around　and　outside　the　horizon　was　a　glowing　belt　of　fire；　making　even　the　stars　look　pale　and　feeble。　At　last　I　came　away　with　reluctance；　and　made　my　way　towards　Dudley。　I　reached　the　town　at　a　late　hour。　　I　was　exhausted　in　mind　and　body；　yet　the　day　had　been　most　interesting　and　exciting。　　A　sound　sleep　refreshed　me；　and　I　was　up　in　the　morning　early；　to　recommence　my　journey　of　inquiry；

I　made　my　way　to　the　impressive　ruins　of　Dudley　Castle；　the　remnant　of　a　very　ancient　stronghold；　originally　built　by　Dud；　the　Saxon。　The　castle　is　situated　on　a　finely　wooded　hill；　it　is　so　extensive　that　it　more　resembles　the　ruins　of　a　town　than　of　a　single　building。　You　enter　through　a　treble　gateway；　and　see　the　remnants　of　the　moat；　the　court；　and　the　keep。　　Here　are　the　central　hall；　the　guard；　rooms；　and　the　chapel。　　It　must　have　been　a　magnificent　structure。　　In　the　Midlands　it　was　known　as　the　〃Castle　of　the　Woods〃　Now　it　is　abandoned　by　its　owners；　and　surrounded　by　the　Black　Country。　　It　is　undermined　by　collieries；　and　even　penetrated　by　a　canal。　　The　castle　walls　sometimes　tremble　when　a　blast　occurs　in　the　bowels　of　the　mountain　beneath。　　The　town　of　Dudley　lies　quite　close　to　the　castle；　and　was　doubtless　protected　by　it　in　ancient　times。

The　architectural　remains　are　of　various　degrees　of　antiquity；　and　are　well　worthy　of　study；　as　embodying　the　successive　periods　which　they　represent。　　Their　melancholy　grandeur　is　rendered　all　the　more　impressive　by　the　coal　and　iron　works　with　which　they　are　surrounded　the　olden　type　of　buildings　confronting　the　modern。　　The　venerable　trees　struggle　for　existence　under　the　destroying　influence　of　sulphurous　acid；　while　the　grass　is　withered　and　the　vegetation　everywhere　blighted。　　I　sat　down　on　an　elevated　part　of　the　ruins；　and　looked　down　upon　the　extensive　district；　with　its　roaring　and　blazing　furnaces；　the　smoke　of　which　blackened　the　country　as　far　as　the　eye　could　reach；　and　as　I　watched　the　decaying　trees　I　thought　of　the　price　we　had　to　pay　for　our　vaunted　supremacy　in　the　manufacture　of　iron。　　We　may　fill　our　purses；　but　we　pay　a　heavy　price　for　it　in　the　loss　of　picturesqueness　and　beauty。　　I　left　the　castle　with　reluctance；　and　proceeded　to　inspect　the　limestone　quarries　in　the　neighbourhood。　The　limestone　has　long　been　worked　out　from　underneath　the　castle；　but　not　far　from　it　is　Wren's　Nest　Hill；　a　mountain　of　limestone。　The　wrens　have　left；　but　the　quarries　are　there。　　The　walk　to　the　hill　is　along　green　lanes　and　over　quiet　fields。　　I　entered　one　of　the　quarries　opened　out　in　the　sloping　precipice；　and　penetrated　as　far　as　the　glimmer　of　sunlight　enabled　me　to　see　my　way。　　But　the　sound　of　the　dripping　of　water　from　the　root　of　the　cave　warned　me　that　I　was　approaching　some　deep　pool；　into　which　a　false　step　might　plunge　me。　I　therefore　kept　within　the　light　of　day。　　An　occasional　ray　of　the　sun　lit　up　the　enormous　rock　pillars　which　the　quarrymen　had　left　to　support　the　roof。　　It　was　a　most　impressive　sight。

Having　emerged　from　the　subterranean　cave；　I　proceeded　on　my　way　to　Birmingham。　　I　reached　the　town　in　the　evening；　and　found　most　comfortable　quarters。　　On　the　following　day　I　visited　some　of　the　factories　where　processes　were　carried　on　in　connection　with　the　Birmingham　trade。　　I　saw　the　mills　where　sheet　brass　and　copper　were　rolled　for　the　purpose　of　being　plated　with　silver。　　There　was　nothing　in　these　processes　of　novel　interest；　though　I　picked　up　many　practical　hints。　　I　could　not　fail　to　be　attracted　by　the　dexterous　and　rapid　manipulation　of　the　work　in　hand；　even　by　boys　and　girls　whose　quick　sight　and　nimble　fingers　were　educated　to　a　high　degree　of　perfection。　I　could　have　spent　a　month　profitably　among　the　vast　variety　of　small　traders　in　metal；　of　which　Birmingham　is　the　headquarters。　Even　in　what　is　called　〃the　toy　trade；〃　I　found　a　vast　amount　of　skill　displayed　in　the　production　of　goldsmith　work；　in　earrings；　brooches；　gold　chains；　rings；　beads；　and　glass　eyes　for　stuffed　birds；　dolls；　and　men。

I　was　especially　attracted　by　Soho；　once　the　famous　manufacturing　establishment　of　Boulton　and　Watt。　　Although　this　was　not　the　birthplace*　＇footnote。。。　The　birthplace　of　the　condensing　engine　of　Watt　was　the　workshop　in　the　Glasgow　University；　where　he　first　contrived　and　used　a　separate　condenserthe　true　and　vital　element　in　Watt's　invention。　The　condenser　afterwards　attained　its　true　effective　manhood　at　Soho　The　Newcomen　engine　was　in　fact　a　condensing　engine；　but　as　the　condensation　was　effected　inside　the　steam　cylinder　it　was　a　very　costly　source　of　power　in　respect　to　steam。　　Watt's　happy　idea　of　condensing　in　a　separate　vessel　removed　the　defect。　　This　was　first　done　in　his　experimental　engine　in　the　Glasgow　University　workshop；　and　before　he　had　made　the　one　at　Kinniel　for　Dr。　Roebuck。　　。。。＇　of　the　condensing　steam…engine　it　was　the　place　where　it　attained　its　full　manhood　of　efficiency；　and　became　the　source　and　origin　of　English　manufacturing　power。　　Watt's　engine　has　had　a　greater　influence　on　the　productive　arts　of　mankind　than　any　other　that　can　be　named。　　Boulton　also　was　a　thorough　man　of　business；　without　whom；　perhaps；　Watt　could　never　have　made　his　way　against　the　world；　or　perfected　his　magnificent　invention。　　Not　less　interesting　to