an autobiography-第53部分

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


o　trust　to　correspondence；　but　to　see　the　directors　on　the　spot。　We　found　that　there　were　several　riskful　conditions　attached　to　the　proposed　contract；　which　we　considered　it　imprudent　to　agree　to。　We　had　afterwards　good　reason　to　feel　satisfied　that　we　had　not　yielded　to　the　very　tempting　commercial　blandishments　that　were　offered　to　us；　but　that　we　refrained　from　undertaking　an　order　that　required　so　many　important　modifications。

Nevertheless；　I　was　exceedingly　delighted　with　the　appearance　of　the　city　of　Nuremberg。　　It　carries　one　back　to　the　mediaeval　times！　The　architecture；　even　of　the　ordinary　houses；　is　excellent。　St。　Lawrence；　St。　Sebald's；　and　the　Frauenkirche；　are　splendid　specimens　of　Gothic　design。　　The　city　is　surrounded　by　old　walls　and　turrets；　by　ramparts　and　bastions；　enclosed　by　a　ditch　faced　with　masonry。　Very　few　cities　have　so　well　escaped　the　storm　of　war　and　sieges　in　the　Middle　Ages；　and　even　in　modern　times。　　Everything　has　been　carefully　preserved；　and　many　of　the　best　houses　are　still　inhabited　by　the　families　whose　forefathers　originally　constructed　them。　　But　〃progress〃　is　beginning　to　affect　Nuremberg。　　It　is　the　centre　of　railways；　buildings　are　extending　in　all　directions；　tram…cars　are　running　in　the　streets；　and　before　long；　I　fear；　the　ditch　will　be　filled　up；　the　surrounding　picturesque　walls　and　towers　demolished；　and　the　city　thrown　open　to　the　surrounding　country。

I　visited　the　house　of　Albert　Durer；　one　of　the　greatest　artists　who　ever　lived。　　He　was　a　man　of　universal　geniusa　painter；　sculptor；　engraver；　mathematician；　and　engineer。　　He　was　to　Germany　what　Leonardo　da　Vinci　was　to　Italy。　　His　house　is　wonderfully　preserved。　You　see　his　entrance　hall；　his　exhibition　room；　his　bedroom；　his　studio；　and　the　opening　into　which　his　wifethat　veritable　Xantippe　thrust　the　food　that　was　to　sustain　him　during　his　solitary　hours　of　labour。　　I　saw　his　grave；　too；　in　the　old　churchyard　beyond　the　Thiergarten　gate。　　I　saw　the　bronze　plate　commemorating　the　day　of　his　death。　　〃Emigravit　8　idus　Aprilis　1528。〃　　〃Emigravit〃　only；　for　the　true　artist　never　dies。　　Hans　Sachs's　grave　is　there　toothe　great　Reformation　poet　of　Luther's　time。

Adam　Krafft　must　have　been　a　great　sculptor；　though　his　name　is　little　known　out　of　Nuremberg。　　Perhaps　his　finest　work　is　in　St。　Lawrence　Cathedralthe　Sacramentshauslein；　or　the　repository　for　the　sacred　wafera　graceful　tapering　stone　spire　of　florid　Gothic　open　work；　more　than　sixty　feet　high；　which　stands　at　the　opening　of　the　right　transept。　　Its　construction　and　decoration　occupied　the　sculptor　and　his　two　apprentices　no　less　than　five　years；　and　all　that　he　received　for　his　hard　labour　and　skilful　work　was　770　gulden；　or　about　#80　sterling。　　No　wonder　that　he　died　in　the　deepest　distress。　St。　Sebald's　and　the　Frauenkirche　also　contain　numerous　specimens　of　his　admirable　work。

In　the　course　of　the　following　year　（1843）　it　was　necessary　for　me　to　make　a　journey　to　St。　Petersburg。　　My　object　was　to　endeavour　to　obtain　an　order　for　a　portion　of　the　locomotives　required　for　working　the　line　between　that　city　and　Moscow。　　The　railway　had　been　constructed　under　the　engineership　of　Major　Whistler；　father　of　the　well…known　artist；　and　it　was　shortly　about　to　be　opened。　　It　appeared　that　the　Emperor　Nicholas　was　desirous　of　securing　a　home　supply　of　locomotives；　and　that；　like　a　wise　monarch；　he　wished　to　employ　his　own　subjects　rather　than　foreigners　in　producing　them。　　No　one　could　object　to　this。

The　English　locomotive　manufacturers　were　not　aware　of　the　Emperor's　intention。　　When　I　arrived　in　the　city　I　expected　an　order　for　locomotives。　　The　representatives　of　the　principal　English　firms　were　there　like　myself；　they；　too；　expected　a　share　of　the　order。　It　so　happened　that　at　the　table　d'hote　dinner　I　sat　near　a　very　intelligent　American；　with　whom　I　soon　became　intimate。　　He　told　me　that　he　was　very　well　acquainted　with　Major　Whistler；　and　offered　to　introduce　me　to　him。　　By　all　means！　　There　is　no　thing　like　friendly　feelings　in　matters　of　business。

The　Major　gave　me　a　frank　and　cordial　reception；　and　informed　me　of　the　position　of　affairs。　　The　Emperor；　he　said；　was　desirous　of　training　a　class　of　Russian　mechanics　to　supply　not　only　the　locomotives　but　to　keep　them　constantly　in　repair。　　He　could　not　solely　depend　upon　foreign　artisans　for　the　latter　purpose。　　The　locomotives　must　be　made　in　Russia。　　The　Emperor　had　given　up　the　extensive　premises　of　the　Imperial　China　Manufactory；　which　were　to　be　devoted　to　the　manufacture　of　engines。

The　Major　appointed　Messrs。　　Eastwick；　Harrison；　and　Wynants；　to　supply　the　entire　mechanical　plant　of　the　railway。　　I　saw　that　it　would　be　of　no　use　to　apply　for　any　order　for　locomotives；　but　I　offered　to　do　all　that　I　could　to　supply　the　necessary　details。　　In　the　course　of　a　few　days　I　was　introduced　to　Joseph　Harrison；　the　chief　mechanic　of　the　firm；　and　I　then　entered　into　a　friendship　which　proved　long　and　lasting。　　He　gave　me　a　large　order　for　boilers；　and　for　detail　parts　of　the　Moscow　enginesall　of　which　helped　him　forward　in　the　completion　of　the　locomotives。　　We　also　supplied　many　of　our　special　machine　tools；　without　which　engines　could　not　then　be　very　satisfactorily　made　or　kept　in　repair。　　In　this　way　I　was　in　all　respects　highly　remunerated　for　my　journey。

The　enjoyment　of　my　visit　to　St。　Petersburg　was　much　enhanced　by　frequent　visits　to　my　much　valued　friend　General　Alexander　Wilson。　He　was　a　native　of　Edinburgh；　and　delighted　to　enjoy　cracks　with　me　upon　subjects　of　mutual　interest。　　His　sister；　who　kept　house　for　him；　joined　in　our　conversation。　　She　had　been　married　to　the　Emperor　Paul's　physician；　who　was　also　a　Scotsman；　and　was　able　to　narrate　many　terrible　events　in　relation　to　Russian　Court　affairs。　　The　General　had　worked　his　way　upwards；　like　the　rest　of　us。　　During　the　principal　part　of　his　life　he　had　superintended　the　great　mechanical　establishments　at　Alexandrosky　and　Colpenha；　where　about　3000　operatives　were　employed。　These　establishments　were　originally　founded　by　the　Empress　Catherine　for　the　purpose　of　creating　a　native　manufacturing　population　capable　of　carrying　on　textile　and　mechanical　works　of　all　kinds。　The　sail…cloth　for　the　Russian　navy　was　manufactured　at　Alexandrosky　by　excellent　machinery。　　Cotton　fabrics　were　also　manufactured；　as　well　as　playing　cards；　which　were　a　Crown　monopoly。　　The　great　establishment　at　Colpenha　consisted　of　a　foundry；　a　machine　manufactory；　and　a　mint　where　the　copper　money　of　the　empire　was　coined。　　General　Wilson　was　the　directing　chief　officer　of　all　these　establishments。

Through　him　I　had　the　happiness　of　being　introduced　to　General　Greg；　son　of　the　great　admiral　who　shed　such　honour　on　the　Russian　flag　during　the　reign　of　the　Empress　Catherine。　　He　was　then　well　advanced　in　years；　but　full　of　keen　intelligence　and　devoted　to　astronomical　pursuits。　　He　was　in　a　great　measure　the　founder　of　the　Imperial　Observatory　at　Pulkowa；　situated　on　an　appropriate　eminence　about　eight　miles　from　St。　Petersburg。　　The　observatory　was　furnished　under　his　directions　with　the　most　magnificent　astronomical　instruments。　I　had　the　honour　to　be　introduced　by　him　to　the　elder　Struve；　whose　astronomical　labours　procured　him　a　well…earned　reputation　throughout　Europe。　　I　had　the　rare　happiness　of　spending　some　nights　with　Struve；　when　he　showed　me　the　wonderful　capabilities　of　his　fine　instruments。　The　observatory　is　quite　imperial　in　its　arrangement　and　management；　and　was　supported　in　the　most　liberal　manner　by　the　Emperor　Nicholas。　Indeed；　it　is　a　perfect　example　of　what　so　noble　an　establishment　should　be。

Struve　most　kindly　invited　me　to　come　whenever　the　state　of　the　weather　permitted　him　to　show　forth　the　wonderful　perfection　of　his　instruments；a　rare　chance；　which　I　seized　every　opportunity　of　enjoying。　　It　was　quite　a　picture　to　see　the　keen　interest　and　intense　enjoyment　with　which　the　profound　astronomer　would　seat　himself　at　his　instrument　and　pick　out　some　exquisite　test　objects；　such　as　the　double　stars　in　Virgo；　Cygnus；　or　Ursa　Major。　　The　beautiful　order　and　neatness　with　which　the　instruments　were　kept　in　their　magnificent　appropriate　apartments；　each　having　its　appropriate　observer　proceeding　quietly　with　his　allotted　special　work；　with　nothing　to　break　the　silence　but　the　〃tick；　tack！〃　of　the　sidereal　clockthis　was　indeed　a　most　impressive　sight！　　And　the　kindly　companionable　manner　of　the　great　master　of　the　establishment　was　in　all　respects　in　harmony　with　the　astronomical　work　which　he　conducted　in　this　great　Temple　of　the　Universe！

Through　my　friendship　with　General　Wilson　I　was　enabled　to　extend　my　acquaintance　with　many　of　my　countrymen　who　had　been　long　settled　at　St。　Petersburg　in　connection　with　commercial　affairs。　　I　enjoyed　their　kind　hospitality；　and　soon　found　myself　quite　at　home　amongst　them。　I　remained　in　the　city　for　about　two　months。　　During　that　time　I　was　constantly　about。　　The　shops；　the　streets；　the　houses；　the　museums；　were　objects　of　great　interest。　　The　view　of　the　magnificent　buildings　along　the　sides　of　the　quay　is　very　imposing。　　Looking　from　the　front　of　the　statue　of　Peter　the　Great　you　observe　the　long　facade　of　the　Admiralty；　the　column　of　Alexander；　the　Winter　Palace；　and　other　public　buildings。　　The　Neva　flows　in　front　of　them　in　a　massive　volume　of　pure　water。　　On　an　island　opposite　stands　the　citadel。　　The　whole　presents　a　coup　d'oeil　of　unexampled　architectural　magnificence。

I　was　much　interested　by　the　shops　and　their　signboards。　The　latter　were　fixed　all　over　the　fronts　of　the　shops；　and　contained　a　delineation　of　the　goods　sold　within。　There　was　no　necessity　for　reading。　　The　pictorial　portraits　told　their　own　tale。　They　were　admirable　specimens　of　what　is　called　still…life　pictures；　not　only　as　regards　the　drawing　and　colouring　of　each　object；　but　with　respect　to　the　grouping；　which　was　in　most　cases　artistic　and　natural。　Two　reasons　were　given　me　for　this　style　of　artistic　sign…painting：　one　was　that　many　of　the　people　could　not　read　the　written　words　defining　the　articles　sold　within；　and　the　other　was　that　the　severe　and　long…continued　frosts　of　the　St。　Petersburg　winter　rendered　large　shop　windows　i