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monster of conceit;〃 he went on; as he saw me smile at the avidity

with which he adopted my illustration; 〃I confess that I am in one of

those moods when great things seem possible!  This is one of my

nervous nightsI dream waking!  When the south wind blows over

Florence at midnight it seems to coax the soul from all the fair

things locked away in her churches and galleries; it comes into my

own little studio with the moonlight; and sets my heart beating too

deeply for rest。  You see I am always adding a thought to my


conception!  This evening I felt that I couldn't sleep unless I had

communed with the genius of Buonarotti!〃



He seemed deeply versed in local history and tradition; and he

expatiated con amore on the charms of Florence。  I gathered that he

was an old resident; and that he had taken the lovely city into his

heart。  〃I owe her everything;〃 he declared。  〃It's only since I came

here that I have really lived; intellectually。  One by one; all

profane desires; all mere worldly aims; have dropped away from me;

and left me nothing but my pencil; my little note…book〃 (and he

tapped his breast…pocket); 〃and the worship of the pure masters

those who were pure because they were innocent; and those who were

pure because they were strong!〃



〃And have you been very productive all this time?〃 I asked

sympathetically。



He was silent a while before replying。  〃Not in the vulgar sense!〃 he

said at last。  〃I have chosen never to manifest myself by

imperfection。  The good in every performance I have re…absorbed into

the generative force of new creations; the badthere is always

plenty of thatI have religiously destroyed。  I may say; with some

satisfaction; that I have not added a mite to the rubbish of the

world。  As a proof of my conscientiousness and he stopped short; and

eyed me with extraordinary candour; as if the proof were to be

overwhelming〃I have never sold a picture!  'At least no merchant

traffics in my heart!'  Do you remember that divine line in Browning?

My little studio has never been profaned by superficial; feverish;

mercenary work。  It's a temple of labour; but of leisure!  Art is

long。  If we work for ourselves; of course we must hurry。  If we work

for her; we must often pause。  She can wait!〃



This had brought us to my hotel door; somewhat to my relief; I

confess; for I had begun to feel unequal to the society of a genius

of this heroic strain。  I left him; however; not without expressing a

friendly hope that we should meet again。  The next morning my

curiosity had not abated; I was anxious to see him by common

daylight。  I counted upon meeting him in one of the many pictorial

haunts of Florence; and I was gratified without delay。  I found him

in the course of the morning in the Tribune of the Uffizithat

little treasure…chamber of world…famous things。  He had turned his

back on the Venus de' Medici; and with his arms resting on the rail…

mug which protects the pictures; and his head buried in his hands; he

was lost in the contemplation of that superb triptych of Andrea

Mantegnaa work which has neither the material splendour nor the

commanding force of some of its neighbours; but which; glowing there

with the loveliness of patient labour; suits possibly a more constant

need of the soul。  I looked at the picture for some time over his

shoulder; at last; with a heavy sigh; he turned away and our eyes

met。  As he recognised me a deep blush rose to his face; he fancied;

perhaps; that he had made a fool of himself overnight。  But I offered

him my hand with a friendliness which assured him I was not a

scoffer。  I knew him by his ardent chevelure; otherwise he was much

altered。  His midnight mood was over; and he looked as haggard as an

actor by daylight。  He was far older than I had supposed; and he had

less bravery of costume and gesture。  He seemed the quiet; poor;

patient artist he had proclaimed himself; and the fact that he had

never sold a picture was more obvious than glorious。  His velvet coat

was threadbare; and his short slouched hat; of an antique pattern;

revealed a rustiness which marked it an 〃original;〃 and not one of

the picturesque reproductions which brethren of his craft affect。

His eye was mild and heavy; and his expression singularly gentle and

acquiescent; the more so for a certain pallid leanness of visage;

which I hardly knew whether to refer to the consuming fire of genius

or to a meagre diet。  A very little talk; however; cleared his brow

and brought back his eloquence。



〃And this is your first visit to these enchanted halls?〃 he cried。

〃Happy; thrice happy youth!〃 And taking me by the arm; he prepared to

lead me to each of the pre…eminent works in turn and show me the

cream of the gallery。  But before we left the Mantegna he pressed my

arm and gave it a loving look。  〃HE was not in a hurry;〃 he murmured。

〃He knew nothing of 〃raw Haste; half…sister to Delay!〃  How sound a

critic my friend was I am unable to say; but he was an extremely

amusing one; overflowing with opinions; theories; and sympathies;

with disquisition and gossip and anecdote。  He was a shade too

sentimental for my own sympathies; and I fancied he was rather too

fond of superfine discriminations and of discovering subtle

intentions in shallow places。  At moments; too; he plunged into the

sea of metaphysics; and floundered a while in waters too deep for

intellectual security。  But his abounding knowledge and happy

judgment told a touching story of long attentive hours in this

worshipful company; there was a reproach to my wasteful saunterings

in so devoted a culture of opportunity。  〃There are two moods;〃 I

remember his saying; 〃in which we may walk through galleriesthe

critical and the ideal。  They seize us at their pleasure; and we can

never tell which is to take its turn。  The critical mood; oddly; is

the genial one; the friendly; the condescending。  It relishes the

pretty trivialities of art; its vulgar cleverness; its conscious

graces。  It has a kindly greeting for anything which looks as if;

according to his light; the painter had enjoyed doing itfor the

little Dutch cabbages and kettles; for the taper fingers and breezy

mantles of late…coming Madonnas; for the little blue…hilled;

pastoral; sceptical Italian landscapes。  Then there are the days of

fierce; fastidious longingsolemn church feasts of the intellect

when all vulgar effort and all petty success is a weariness; and

everything but the bestthe best of the bestdisgusts。  In these

hours we are relentless aristocrats of taste。  We will not take

Michael Angelo for granted; we will not swallow Raphael whole!〃



The gallery of the Uffizi is not only rich in its possessions; but

peculiarly fortunate in that fine architectural accident; as one may

call it; which unites itwith the breadth of river and city between

themto those princely chambers of the Pitti Palace。  The Louvre and

the Vatican hardly give you such a sense of sustained inclosure as

those long passages projected over street and stream to establish a

sort of inviolate transition between the two palaces of art。  We

passed along the gallery in which those precious drawings by eminent

hands hang chaste and gray above the swirl and murmur of the yellow

Arno; and reached the ducal saloons of the Pitti。  Ducal as they are;

it must be confessed that they are imperfect as show…rooms; and that;

with their deep…set windows and their massive mouldings; it is rather

a broken light that reaches the pictured walls。  But here the

masterpieces hang thick; and you seem to see them in a luminous

atmosphere of their own。  And the great saloons; with their superb

dim ceilings; their outer wall in splendid shadow; and the sombre

opposite glow of mellow canvas and dusky gilding; make; themselves;

almost as fine a picture as the Titians and Raphaels they imperfectly

reveal。  We lingered briefly before many a Raphael and Titian; but I

saw my friend was impatient; and I suffered him at last to lead me

directly to the goal of our journeythe most tenderly fair of

Raphael's virgins; the Madonna in the Chair。  Of all the fine

pictures of the world; it seemed to me this is the one with which

criticism has least to do。  None betrays less effort; less of the

mechanism of success and of the irrepressible discord between

conception and result; which shows dimly in so many consummate works。

Graceful; human; near to our sympathies as it is; it has nothing of

manner; of method; nothing; almost; of style; it blooms there in

rounded softness; as instinct with harmony as if it were an immediate

exhalation of genius。  The figure melts away the spectator's mind

into a sort of passionate tenderness which he knows not whether he

has given to heavenly purity or to earthly charm。  He is intoxicated

with the fragrance of the tenderest blossom of maternity that ever

bloomed on earth。



〃That's what I call a fine picture;〃 said my companion; after we had

gazed a while in silence。  〃I have a right to say so; for I have

copied it so often and so carefully that I could repeat it now with

my eyes shut。  Other works are of Raphael:  this IS Raphael himself。

Others you can praise; you can qualify; you can measure; explain;

account for:  this you can only love and admire。  I don't know in

what seeming he walked among men while this divine mood was upon him;

but after it; surely; he could do nothing but die; this world had

nothing more to teach him。  Think of it a while; my friend; and you

will admit that I am not raving。  Think of his seeing that spotless

image; not for a moment; for a day; in a happy dream; or a restless

fever…fit; not as a poet in a five minutes' frenzytime to snatch

his phrase and scribble his immortal stanza; but for days together;

while the slow labour of the brush went on; while the foul vapours of

life interposed; and the fancy ached with tension; fixed; radiant;

distinct; as we see it now!  Wh

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