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guards to call on me; we kept him to lunch; and the old 

gentleman was very good and amiable。  He asked me why I had 

not been to see him?  I reminded him a law had been made; and 

told him I was not a small boy to go and ask leave of the 

consuls; and perhaps be refused。  He told me to pay no 

attention to the law but come when I would; and begged me to 

name a day to lunch。  The next day (I think it was) early in 

the morning; a man appeared; he had metal buttons like a 

policeman … but he was none of our Apia force; he was a rebel 

policeman; and had been all night coming round inland through 

the forest from Malie。  He brought a letter addressed



I LAUA SUSUGA         To his Excellency

MISI MEA。             Mr。 Thingumbob。



(So as not to compromise me)。  I can read Samoan now; though 

not speak it。  It was to ask me for last Wednesday。  My 

difficulty was great; I had no man here who was fit; or who 

would have cared to write for me; and I had to postpone the 

visit。  So I gave up half…a…day with a groan; went down to 

the priests; arranged for Monday week to go to Malie; and 

named Thursday as my day to lunch with Laupepa。  I was 

sharply ill on Wednesday; mail day。  But on Thursday I had to 

trail down and go through the dreary business of a feast; in 

the King's wretched shanty; full in view of the President's 

fine new house; it made my heart burn。



This gave me my chance to arrange a private interview with 

the King; and I decided to ask Mr。 Whitmee; one of our 

missionaries; to be my interpreter。  On Friday; being too 

much exhausted to go down; I begged him to come up。  He did; 

I told him the heads of what I meant to say; and he not only 

consented; but said; if we got on well with the King; he 

would even proceed with me to Malie。  Yesterday; in 

consequence; I rode down to W。's house by eight in the 

morning; waited till ten; received a message that the King 

was stopped by a meeting with the President and FAIPULE; made 

another engagement for seven at night; came up; went down; 

waited till eight; and came away again; BREDOUILLE; and a 

dead body。  The poor; weak; enslaved King had not dared to 

come to me even in secret。  Now I have to…day for a rest; and 

to…morrow to Malie。  Shall I be suffered to embark?  It is 

very doubtful; they are on the trail。  On Thursday; a 

policeman came up to me and began that a boy had been to see 

him; and said I was going to see Mataafa。  … 'And what did 

you say?' said I。 … 'I told him I did not know about where 

you were going;' said he。 … 'A very good answer;' said I; and 

turned away。  It is lashing rain to…day; but to…morrow; rain 

or shine; I must at least make the attempt; and I am so 

weary; and the weather looks so bad。  I could half wish they 

would arrest me on the beach。  All this bother and pother to 

try and bring a little chance of peace; all this opposition 

and obstinacy in people who remain here by the mere 

forbearance of Mataafa; who has a great force within six 

miles of their government buildings; which are indeed only 

the residences of white officials。  To understand how I have 

been occupied; you must know that 'Misi Mea' has had another 

letter; and this time had to answer himself; think of doing 

so in a language so obscure to me; with the aid of a Bible; 

concordance and dictionary!  What a wonderful Baboo 

compilation it must have been!  I positively expected to hear 

news of its arrival in Malie by the sound of laughter。  I 

doubt if you will be able to read this scrawl; but I have 

managed to scramble somehow up to date; and to…morrow; one 

way or another; should be interesting。  But as for me; I am a 

wreck; as I have no doubt style and handwriting both testify。





8 P。M。





Wonderfully rested; feel almost fit for to…morrow's dreary 

excursion … not that it will be dreary if the weather favour; 

but otherwise it will be death; and a native feast; and I 

fear I am in for a big one; is a thing I loathe。  I wonder if 

you can really conceive me as a politician in this extra…

mundane sphere … presiding at public meetings; drafting 

proclamations; receiving mis…addressed letters that have been 

carried all night through tropical forests?  It seems strange 

indeed; and to you; who know me really; must seem stranger。  

I do not say I am free from the itch of meddling; but God 

knows this is no tempting job to meddle in; I smile at 

picturesque circumstances like the Misi Mea (MONSIEUR CHOSE 

is the exact equivalent) correspondence; but the business as 

a whole bores and revolts me。  I do nothing and say nothing; 

and then a day comes; and I say 'this can go on no longer。'





9。30 P。 M。





The wretched native dilatoriness finds me out。  News has just 

come that we must embark at six to…morrow; I have divided the 

night in watches; and hope to be called to…morrow at four and 

get under way by five。  It is a great chance if it be 

managed; but I have given directions and lent my own clock to 

the boys; and hope the best。  If I get called at four we 

shall do it nicely。  Good…night; I must turn in。





MAY 3RD。





Well; we did get off by about 5。30; or; by'r lady! quarter of 

six: myself on Donald; the huge grey cart…horse; with a ship…

bag across my saddle bow; Fanny on Musu and Belle on Jack。  

We were all feeling pretty tired and sick; and I looked like 

heaven knows what on the cart horse: 'death on the pale 

horse;' I suggested … and young Hunt the missionary; who met 

me to…day on the same charger; squinted up at my perch and 

remarked; 'There's a sweet little cherub that sits up aloft。'  

The boat was ready and we set off down the lagoon about 

seven; four oars; and Talolo; my cook; steering。





MAY 9TH (MONDAY ANYWAY)。





And see what good resolutions came to!  Here is all this time 

past; and no speed made。  Well; we got to Malie and were 

received with the most friendly consideration by the rebel 

chief。  Belle and Fanny were obviously thought to be my two 

wives; they were served their kava together; as were Mataafa 

and myself。  Talolo utterly broke down as interpreter; long 

speeches were made to me by Mataafa and his orators; of which 

he could make nothing but they were 'very much surprised' … 

his way of pronouncing obliged … and as he could understand 

nothing that fell from me except the same form of words; the 

dialogue languished and all business had to be laid aside。  

We had kava; and then a dish of arrowroot; one end of the 

house was screened off for us with a fine tapa; and we lay 

and slept; the three of us heads and tails; upon the mats 

till dinner。  After dinner his illegitimate majesty and 

myself had a walk; and talked as well as my twopenny Samoan 

would admit。  Then there was a dance to amuse the ladies 

before the house; and we came back by moonlight; the sky 

piled full of high faint clouds that long preserved some of 

the radiance of the sunset。  The lagoon was very shallow; we 

continually struck; for the moon was young and the light 

baffling; and for a long time we were accompanied by; and 

passed and re…passed; a huge whale…boat from Savaii; pulling 

perhaps twelve oars; and containing perhaps forty people who 

sang in time as they went So to the hotel; where we slept; 

and returned the next Tuesday morning on the three same 

steeds。



Meanwhile my business was still untransacted。  And on 

Saturday morning; I sent down and arranged with Charlie 

Taylor to go down that afternoon。  I had scarce got the 

saddle bags fixed and had not yet mounted; when the rain 

began。  But it was no use delaying now; off I went in a wild 

waterspout to Apia; found Charlie (Sale) Taylor … a 

sesquipedalian young half…caste … not yet ready; had a snack 

of bread and cheese at the hotel while waiting him; and then 

off to Malie。  It rained all the way; seven miles; the road; 

which begins in triumph; dwindles down to a nasty; boggy; 

rocky footpath with weeds up to a horseman's knees; and there 

are eight pig fences to jump; nasty beastly jumps … the next 

morning we found one all messed with blood where a horse had 

come to grief … but my Jack is a clever fencer; and 

altogether we made good time; and got to Malie about dark。  

It is a village of very fine native houses; high; domed; oval 

buildings; open at the sides; or only closed with slatted 

Venetians。  To be sure; Mataafa's is not the worst。  It was 

already quite dark within; only a little fire of cocoa…shell 

blazed in the midst and showed us four servants; the chief 

was in his chapel; whence we heard the sound of chaunting。  

Presently he returned; Taylor and I had our soaking clothes 

changed; family worship was held; kava brewed; I was 

exhibited to the chiefs as a man who had ridden through all 

that rain and risked deportation to serve their master; they 

were bidden learn my face; and remember upon all occasions to 

help and serve me。  Then dinner; and politics; and fine 

speeches until twelve at night … O; and some more kava … when 

I could sit up no longer; my usual bed…time is eight; you 

must remember。  Then one end of the house was screened off 

for me alone; and a bed made … you never saw such a couch … I 

believe of nearly fifty (half at least) fine mats; by 

Mataafa's daughter; Kalala。  Here I reposed alone; and on the 

other side of the tafa; Majesty and his household。  Armed 

guards and a drummer patrolled about the house all night; 

they had no shift; poor devils; but stood to arms from sun…

down to sun…up。



About four in the morning; I was awakened by the sound of a 

whistle pipe blown outside on the dark; very softly and to a 

pleasing simple air; I really think I have hit the first 

phrase:



'Fragment of music score which cannot be reproduced'



It sounded very peaceful; sweet and strange in the dark; and 

I found this 

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