tracks of a rolling stone-第42部分

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e　he　knew　the　pistol　　must　have　escaped　from　his　FAJA。　　Near　it；　three　rough…　looking　knaves　in　shaggy　goatskin　garments；　with　guns　over　　their　shoulders；　were　watching　the　progress　of　my　sketch。　　On　　his　return　Cayley　asked　two　of　these　（the　third　moved　away　as　　he　came　up）　whether　they　had　seen　the　pistol。　　They　declared　　they　had　not；　upon　which　he　said　he　must　search　them。　　He　was　　not　a　man　to　be　trifled　with；　and　although　they　refused　at　　first；　they　presently　submitted。　　He　then　overtook　the　third；　　and　at　once　accused　him　of　the　theft。　　The　man　swore　he　knew　　nothing　of　the　lost　weapon；　and　brought　his　gun　to　the　　charge。　　As　he　did　so；　Cayley　caught　sight　of　the　pistol　　under　the　fellow's　sheepskin　jacket；　and　with　characteristic　　promptitude　seized　it；　while　he　presented　a　revolver　at　the　　thief's　head。　　All　this　he　told　me　with　great　glee　a　minute　　or　two　later。

When　we　got　back　to　Argamasilla　the　Medico　was　already　　awaiting　us。　　He　conducted　us　to　the　house　of　the　Quijanas；　　where　an　old　woman…servant；　lamp　in　hand；　showed　the　way　down　　a　flight　of　steps　into　the　dungeon。　　It　was　a　low　vaulted　　chamber；　eight　feet　high；　ten　broad；　and　twenty…four　long；　　dimly　lighted　by　a　lancet　window　six　feet　from　the　ground。　　　She　confidently　informed　us　that　Cervantes　was　in　the　habit　　of　writing　at　the　farthest　end；　and　that　he　was　allowed　a　　lamp　for　the　purpose。　　We　accepted　the　information　with　　implicit　faith；　silently　picturing　on　our　mental　retinas　the　　image　of　him　whose　genius　had　brightened　the　dark　hours　of　　millions　for　over　three　hundred　years。　　One　could　see　the　　spare　form　of　the　man　of　action　pacing　up　and　down　his　cell；　　unconscious　of　prison　walls；　roaming　in　spirit　through　the　　boundless　realms　of　Fancy；　his　piercing　eyes　intent　upon　the　　conjured　visions　of　his　brain。　　One　noted　his　vast　expanse　of　　brow；　his　short；　crisp；　curly　hair；　his　high　cheek…bones　and　　singularly　high…bridged　nose；　his　refined　mouth；　small　　projecting　chin　and　pointed　beard。　　One　noticed；　too；　as　he　　turned；　the　stump　of　the　left　wrist　clasped　by　the　remaining　　hand。　　Who　could　stand　in　such　a　presence　and　fail　to　bow　　with　veneration　before　this　insulted　greatness！　　Potentates　　pass　like　Ozymandias；　but　not　the　men　who；　through　the　ages；　　help　to　save　us　from　this　tread…mill　world；　and　from　　ourselves。

We　visited　Cuenca；　Segovia；　and　many　an　out…of…the…way　spot。　　　If　it　be　true；　as　Don　Quixote　declares；　that　'No　hay　libro　　tan　malo　que　no　tenga　alguna　cosa　buena'　（'there　is　no　book　　so　worthless　that　has　not　some　good　in　it'）；　still　more　true　　is　this　of　a　country　like　Spain。　　And　the　pleasantest　places　　are　just　those　which　only　by…roads　lead　to。　　In　and　near　the　　towns　every　other　man；　if　not　by　profession　still　by　　practice；　is　a　beggar。　　From　the　seedy…looking　rascal　in　the　　street；　of　whom　you　incautiously　ask　the　way；　and　who　　piteously　whines　'para　zapatos'　…　for　the　wear　and　tear　of　　shoe　leather；　to　the　highest　official；　one　and　all　hold　out　　their　hands　for　the　copper　CUARTO　or　the　eleemosynary　　sinecure。　　As　it　was　then；　so　is　it　now；　the　Government　wants　　support；　and　it　is　always　to　be　had；　at　a　price；　deputies　　always　want　'places。'　　For　every　duty　the　functionary　　performs；　or　ought　to　perform；　he　receives　his　bribe。　　The　　Government　is　too　poor　to　keep　him　honest；　but　his　POUR…　BOIRES　are　not　measured　by　his　scruples。　　All　is　winked　at；　　if　the　Ministry　secures　a　vote。

Away　in　the　pretty　rural　districts；　in　the　little　villages　　amid　the　woods　and　the　mountains；　with　their　score　or　so　of　　houses　and　their　little　chapel　with　its　tinkling　old　bell　and　　its　poverty…stricken　curate；　the　hard…working；　simple…minded　　men　are　too　proud　and　too　honest　to　ask　for　more　than　a　pinch　　of　tobacco　for　the　CIGARILLO。　　The　maidens　are　comely；　and　as　　chaste　as　…　can　reasonably　be　expected。

Madrid　is　worth　visiting　…　not　for　its　bull…fights；　which　are　　disgusting　proofs　of　man's　natural　brutality；　but　for　its　　picture　gallery。　　No　one　knows　what　Velasquez　could　do；　or　　has　done；　till　he　has　seen　Madrid；　and　Charles　V。　was　　practically　master　of　Europe　when　the　collection　was　in　his　　hands。　　The　Escurial's　chief　interests　are　in　its　　associations　with　Charles　V。　and　Philip　II。　　In　the　dark　and　　gloomy　little　bedroom　of　the　latter　is　a　small　window　opening　　into　the　church；　so　that　the　King　could　attend　the　services　　in　bed　if　necessary。

It　cannot　be　said　of　Philip　that　he　was　nothing　if　not　　religious；　for　Nero　even　was　not　a　more　indefatigable　　murderer；　nor　a　more　diabolical　specimen　of　cruelty　and　　superstition。　　The　very　thought　of　the　wretch　tempts　one　to　　revolt　at　human　piety；　at　any　rate　where　priestcraft　and　its　　fabrications　are　at　the　bottom　of　it。

When　at　Madrid　we　met　Mr。　Arthur　Birch。　　He　had　been　with　　Cayley　at　Eton；　as　captain　of　the　school。　　While　we　were　　together；　he　received　and　accepted　the　offer　of　an　Eton　　mastership。　　We　were　going　by　diligence　to　Toledo；　and　Birch　　agreed　to　go　with　us。　　I　mention　the　fact　because　the　place　　reminds　me　of　a　clever　play　upon　its　name　by　the　Eton　　scholar。　　Cayley　bought　a　Toledo　sword…blade；　and　asked　Birch　　for　a　motto　to　engrave　upon　it。　　In　a　minute　or　two　he　hit　　off　this：　　TIMETOLETUM；　which　reads　Time　Toletum=Honour　　Toledo；　or　Timeto　Letum=Fear　death。　　Cayley's　attempts；　　though　not　so　neat；　were　not　bad。　　Here　are　a　couple　of　　them：…


Though　slight　I　am；　no　slight　I　stand；　Saying　my　master's　sleight　of　hand。


or：…


Come　to　the　point；　unless　you　do；　The　point　will　shortly　come　to　you。


Birch　got　the　Latin　poem　medal　at　Cambridge　the　same　year　　that　Cayley　got　the　English　one。

Before　we　set　forth　again　upon　our　gipsy　tramp；　I　received　a　　letter　from　Mr。　Ellice　bidding　me　hasten　home　to　contest　the　　Borough　of　Cricklade　in　the　General　Election　of　1852。　　Under　　these　circumstances　we　loitered　but　little　on　the　Northern　　roads。　　At　the　end　of　May　we　reached　Yrun。　　Here　we　sold　our　　ponies　…　now　quite　worn　out　…　for　twenty…three　dollars　…　　about　five　guineas。　　So　that　a　thousand　miles　of　locomotion　　had　cost　us　a　little　over　five　guineas　apiece。　　Not　counting　　hotels　at　Madrid　and　such　smart　places；　our　daily　cost　for　　selves　and　ponies　rarely　exceeded　six　pesetas；　or　three　　shillings　each　all　told。　　The　best　of　it　was；　the　trip　　restored　the　health　of　my　friend。



CHAPTER　XXXV



IN　February　of　this　year；　1852；　Lord　Palmerston；　aided　by　an　　incongruous　force　of　Peelites　and　Protectionists；　turned　Lord　　John　Russell　out　of　office　on　his　Militia　Bill。　　Lord　Derby；　　with　Disraeli　as　Chancellor　of　the　Exchequer　and　leader　of　　the　House　of　Commons；　came　into　power　on　a　cry　for　　Protection。

Not　long　after　my　return　to　England；　I　was　packed　off　to　　canvas　the　borough　of　Cricklade。　　It　was　then　a　very　　extensive　borough；　including　a　large　agricultural　district；　　as　well　as　Swindon；　the　headquarters　of　the　Great　Western　　Railway。　　For　many　years　it　had　returned　two　Conservative　　members；　Messrs。　Nield　and　Goddard。　　It　was　looked　upon　as　an　　impregnable　Tory　stronghold；　and　the　fight　was　little　better　　than　a　forlorn　hope。

My　headquarters　were　at　Coleshill；　Lord　Radnor's。　　The　old　　lord　had；　in　his　Parliamentary　days；　been　a　Radical；　hence；　　my　advanced　opinions　found　great　favour　in　his　eyes。　　My　　programme　was　…　Free　Trade；　Vote　by　Ballot；　and　　Disestablishment。　　Two　of　these　have　become　common…places　　（one　perhaps　effete）；　and　the　third　is　nearer　to　　accomplishment　than　it　was　then。

My　first　acquaintance　with　a　constituency；　amongst　whom　I　　worked　enthusiastically　for　six　weeks；　was　comic　enough。　　My　　instructions　were　to　go　to　Swindon；　there　an　agent；　whom　I　　had　never　seen；　would　join　me。　　A　meeting　of　my　supporters　　had　been　arranged　by　him；　and　I　was　to　make　my　maiden　speech　　in　the　market…place。

My　address；　it　should　be　stated　…　ultra…Radical；　of　course　…　　was　mainly　concocted　for　me　by　Mr。　Cayley；　an　almost　rabid　　Tory；　and　then　member　for　the　North　Riding　of　Yorkshire；　but　　an　old　Parliamentary　hand；　and；　in　consequence　of　my　　attachment　to　his　son；　at　that　time　and　until　his　death；　like　　a　father　to　me。

When　the　train　stopped　at　Swindon；　there　was　a　crowd　of　　passengers；　but　not　a　face　that　I　knew；　and　it　was　not　till　　all　but　one　or　two　had　left；　that　a　business…looking　man　came　　up　and　asked　if　I　were　the　candidate　for　Cricklade。　　He　told　　me　that　a　carriage　was　in　attendance　to　take　us　up　to　the　　town；　and　that　a　procession；　headed　by　a　band；　was　ready　to　　accompany　us　thither。　　The　procession　was　formed　mainly　of　　the　Great　Western　boiler…makers　and　artisans。　　Their　　enthusiasm　seemed　slightly　disproportioned　to　the　occasion；　　and　the　vigour　of　the　brass；　and　especially　of　the　big　drum；　　so　filled　my　head　with　visions　of　Mr。　Pickwick　and　his　friend　　the　Honourable　Samuel　Slumkey；　that　by　the　time　I　reached　the　　market…place；　I　had　forgotten　every　syllable　of　the　speech　　which　I　had　carefully　learnt　by　heart。　　Nor　was　it　the　band　　alone　that　upset　me；　going　up　the　hill　the　carriage　was　all　　but　capsized　by　the　frightened　horses　and　the　breaking　of　the　　pole。　　The　gallant　boiler…makers；　however；　at　once　removed　　the　horses；　and　dragged　the　carriage　with　cheers　of　defiance　　into　the　crowd　awaiting　us。

My　agent　had　settled　that　I　was　to　speak　from　a　window　of　the　　hotel。　　The　only　available　one　was　an　upper　window；　the　lower　　sash　of　which　could　not　be　persuaded　to　keep　up　without　being　　held。　　The　consequence　was；　just　as　I　was　getting　over　the　　embarrassment　of　extemporary　oration；　down　came　the　sash　and　　guillotined　me。　　This　put　the　crowd　in　the　best　of　humours；　　they　roared　with　laughter；　and　after　that　we　got　on　capitally　　together。

A　still　more　inopportune　accident　happened　to　me　later　in　the　　day；　when　speaking　at　Shrivenham。　　A　large　yard　enclosed　by　　buildings　was　chosen　for　the　meeting。　　The　difficulty　was　to　　elevate　the　speaker　above　the　heads　of　the　assembly。　　In　one　　corner　of　the　yard　was　a　water…butt。　　An　ingenious　elector　　got　a　board；　placed　it　on　the　top　of　the　butt　…　which　was　　full　of　water　…　and　persuaded　me　to　make　this　my　rostrum。　　　Here；　again；　in　the　midst　of　my　harangue　…　perhaps　I　stamped　　to　emphasize　my　horror　of　small　loaves　and　other　Tory　　abominations　…　the　board　gave　way；　and　I　narrowly　e