a journey to-第30部分

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Our　boat　could　not　be　forced　very　near　the　dry　ground；　and　our
Highlanders　carried　us　over　the　water。

We　were　now　treading　that　illustrious　Island；　which　was　once　the
luminary　of　the　Caledonian　regions；　whence　savage　clans　and　roving
barbarians　derived　the　benefits　of　knowledge；　and　the　blessings　of
religion。　　To　abstract　the　mind　from　all　local　emotion　would　be
impossible；　if　it　were　endeavoured；　and　would　be　foolish；　if　it
were　possible。　　Whatever　withdraws　us　from　the　power　of　our　senses；
whatever　makes　the　past；　the　distant；　or　the　future　predominate
over　the　present；　advances　us　in　the　dignity　of　thinking　beings。
Far　from　me　and　from　my　friends；　be　such　frigid　philosophy　as　may
conduct　us　indifferent　and　unmoved　over　any　ground　which　has　been
dignified　by　wisdom；　bravery；　or　virtue。　　That　man　is　little　to　be
envied；　whose　patriotism　would　not　gain　force　upon　the　plain　of
Marathon；　or　whose　piety　would　not　grow　warmer　among　the　ruins　of
Iona！

We　came　too　late　to　visit　monuments：　　some　care　was　necessary　for
ourselves。　　Whatever　was　in　the　Island；　Sir　Allan　could　command；
for　the　inhabitants　were　Macleans；　but　having　little　they　could　not
give　us　much。　　He　went　to　the　headman　of　the　Island；　whom　Fame；　but
Fame　delights　in　amplifying；　represents　as　worth　no　less　than　fifty
pounds。　　He　was　perhaps　proud　enough　of　his　guests；　but　ill
prepared　for　our　entertainment；　however；　he　soon　produced　more
provision　than　men　not　luxurious　require。　　Our　lodging　was　next　to
be　provided。　　We　found　a　barn　well　stocked　with　hay；　and　made　our
beds　as　soft　as　we　could。

In　the　morning　we　rose　and　surveyed　the　place。　　The　churches　of　the
two　convents　are　both　standing；　though　unroofed。　　They　were　built
of　unhewn　stone；　but　solid；　and　not　inelegant。　　I　brought　away　rude
measures　of　the　buildings；　such　as　I　cannot　much　trust　myself；
inaccurately　taken；　and　obscurely　noted。　　Mr。　Pennant's
delineations；　which　are　doubtless　exact；　have　made　my　unskilful
description　less　necessary。

The　episcopal　church　consists　of　two　parts；　separated　by　the
belfry；　and　built　at　different　times。　　The　original　church　had；
like　others；　the　altar　at　one　end；　and　tower　at　the　other：　　but　as
it　grew　too　small；　another　building　of　equal　dimension　was　added；
and　the　tower　then　was　necessarily　in　the　middle。

That　these　edifices　are　of　different　ages　seems　evident。　　The　arch
of　the　first　church　is　Roman；　being　part　of　a　circle；　that　of　the
additional　building　is　pointed；　and　therefore　Gothick；　or
Saracenical；　the　tower　is　firm；　and　wants　only　to　be　floored　and
covered。

Of　the　chambers　or　cells　belonging　to　the　monks；　there　are　some
walls　remaining；　but　nothing　approaching　to　a　complete　apartment。

The　bottom　of　the　church　is　so　incumbered　with　mud　and　rubbish；
that　we　could　make　no　discoveries　of　curious　inscriptions；　and　what
there　are　have　been　already　published。　　The　place　is　said　to　be
known　where　the　black　stones　lie　concealed；　on　which　the　old
Highland　Chiefs；　when　they　made　contracts　and　alliances；　used　to
take　the　oath；　which　was　considered　as　more　sacred　than　any　other
obligation；　and　which　could　not　be　violated　without　the　blackest
infamy。　　In　those　days　of　violence　and　rapine；　it　was　of　great
importance　to　impress　upon　savage　minds　the　sanctity　of　an　oath；　by
some　particular　and　extraordinary　circumstances。　　They　would　not
have　recourse　to　the　black　stones；　upon　small　or　common　occasions；
and　when　they　had　established　their　faith　by　this　tremendous
sanction；　inconstancy　and　treachery　were　no　longer　feared。

The　chapel　of　the　nunnery　is　now　used　by　the　inhabitants　as　a　kind
of　general　cow…house；　and　the　bottom　is　consequently　too　miry　for
examination。　　Some　of　the　stones　which　covered　the　later　abbesses
have　inscriptions；　which　might　yet　be　read；　if　the　chapel　were
cleansed。　　The　roof　of　this；　as　of　all　the　other　buildings；　is
totally　destroyed；　not　only　because　timber　quickly　decays　when　it
is　neglected；　but　because　in　an　island　utterly　destitute　of　wood；
it　was　wanted　for　use；　and　was　consequently　the　first　plunder　of
needy　rapacity。

The　chancel　of　the　nuns'　chapel　is　covered　with　an　arch　of　stone；
to　which　time　has　done　no　injury；　and　a　small　apartment
communicating　with　the　choir；　on　the　north　side；　like　the　chapter…
house　in　cathedrals；　roofed　with　stone　in　the　same　manner；　is
likewise　entire。

In　one　of　the　churches　was　a　marble　altar；　which　the　superstition
of　the　inhabitants　has　destroyed。　　Their　opinion　was；　that　a
fragment　of　this　stone　was　a　defence　against　shipwrecks；　fire；　and
miscarriages。　　In　one　corner　of　the　church　the　bason　for　holy　water
is　yet　unbroken。

The　cemetery　of　the　nunnery　was；　till　very　lately；　regarded　with
such　reverence；　that　only　women　were　buried　in　it。　　These　reliques
of　veneration　always　produce　some　mournful　pleasure。　　I　could　have
forgiven　a　great　injury　more　easily　than　the　violation　of　this
imaginary　sanctity。

South　of　the　chapel　stand　the　walls　of　a　large　room；　which　was
probably　the　hall；　or　refectory　of　the　nunnery。　　This　apartment　is
capable　of　repair。　　Of　the　rest　of　the　convent　there　are　only
fragments。

Besides　the　two　principal　churches；　there　are；　I　think；　five
chapels　yet　standing；　and　three　more　remembered。　　There　are　also
crosses；　of　which　two　bear　the　names　of　St。　John　and　St。　Matthew。

A　large　space　of　ground　about　these　consecrated　edifices　is　covered
with　gravestones；　few　of　which　have　any　inscription。　　He　that
surveys　it；　attended　by　an　insular　antiquary；　may　be　told　where　the
Kings　of　many　nations　are　buried；　and　if　he　loves　to　sooth　his
imagination　with　the　thoughts　that　naturally　rise　in　places　where
the　great　and　the　powerful　lie　mingled　with　the　dust；　let　him
listen　in　submissive　silence；　for　if　he　asks　any　questions；　his
delight　is　at　an　end。

Iona　has　long　enjoyed；　without　any　very　credible　attestation；　the
honour　of　being　reputed　the　cemetery　of　the　Scottish　Kings。　　It　is
not　unlikely；　that；　when　the　opinion　of　local　sanctity　was
prevalent；　the　Chieftains　of　the　Isles；　and　perhaps　some　of　the
Norwegian　or　Irish　princes　were　reposited　in　this　venerable
enclosure。　　But　by　whom　the　subterraneous　vaults　are　peopled　is　now
utterly　unknown。　　The　graves　are　very　numerous；　and　some　of　them
undoubtedly　contain　the　remains　of　men；　who　did　not　expect　to　be　so
soon　forgotten。

Not　far　from　this　awful　ground；　may　be　traced　the　garden　of　the
monastery：　　the　fishponds　are　yet　discernible；　and　the　aqueduct；
which　supplied　them；　is　still　in　use。

There　remains　a　broken　building；　which　is　called　the　Bishop's
house；　I　know　not　by　what　authority。　　It　was　once　the　residence　of
some　man　above　the　common　rank；　for　it　has　two　stories　and　a
chimney。　　We　were　shewn　a　chimney　at　the　other　end；　which　was　only
a　nich；　without　perforation；　but　so　much　does　antiquarian
credulity；　or　patriotick　vanity　prevail；　that　it　was　not　much　more
safe　to　trust　the　eye　of　our　instructor　than　the　memory。

There　is　in　the　Island　one　house　more；　and　only　one；　that　has　a
chimney：　　we　entered　it；　and　found　it　neither　wanting　repair　nor
inhabitants；　but　to　the　farmers；　who　now　possess　it；　the　chimney　is
of　no　great　value；　for　their　fire　was　made　on　the　floor；　in　the
middle　of　the　room；　and　notwithstanding　the　dignity　of　their
mansion；　they　rejoiced；　like　their　neighbours；　in　the　comforts　of
smoke。

It　is　observed；　that　ecclesiastical　colleges　are　always　in　the　most
pleasant　and　fruitful　places。　　While　the　world　allowed　the　monks
their　choice；　it　is　surely　no　dishonour　that　they　chose　well。　　This
Island　is　remarkably　fruitful。　　The　village　near　the　churches　is
said　to　contain　seventy　families；　which；　at　five　in　a　family；　is
more　than　a　hundred　inhabitants　to　a　mile。　　There　are　perhaps　other
villages：　　yet　both　corn　and　cattle　are　annually　exported。

But　the　fruitfulness　of　Iona　is　now　its　whole　prosperity。　　The
inhabitants　are　remarkably　gross；　and　remarkably　neglected：　　I　know
not　if　they　are　visited　by　any　Minister。　　The　Island；　which　was
once　the　metropolis　of　learning　and　piety；　has　now　no　school　for
education；　nor　temple　for　worship；　only　two　inhabitants　that　can
speak　English；　and　not　one　that　can　write　or　read。

The　people　are　of　the　clan　of　Maclean；　and　though　Sir　Allan　had　not
been　in　the　place　for　many　years；　he　was　received　with　all　the
reverence　due　to　their　Chieftain。　　One　of　them　being　sharply
reprehended　by　him；　for　not　sending　him　some　rum；　declared　after
his　departure；　in　Mr。　Boswell's　presence；　that　he　had　no　design　of
disappointing　him；　'for；'　said　he；　'I　would　cut　my　bones　for　him；
and　if　he　had　sent　his　dog　for　it；　he　should　have　had　it。'

When　we　were　to　depart；　our　boat　was　left　by　the　ebb　at　a　great
distance　from　the　water；　but　no　sooner　did　we　wish　it　afloat；　than
the　islanders　gathered　round　it；　and；　by　the　union　of　many　hands；
pushed　it　down　the　beach；　every　man　who　could　contribute　his　help
seemed　to　think　himself　happy　in　the　opportunity　of　being；　for　a
moment；　useful　to　his　Chief。

We　now　left　those　illustrious　ruins；　by　which　Mr。　Boswell　was　much
affected；　nor　would　I　willingly　be　thought　to　have　looked　upon　them
without　some　emotion。　　Perhaps；　in　the　revolutions　of　the　world；
Iona　may　be　sometime　again　the　instructress　of　the　Western　Regions。

It　was　no　long　voyage　to　Mull；　where；　under　Sir　Allan's　protection；
we　landed　in　the　evening；　and　were　entertained　for　the　night　by　Mr。
Maclean；　a　Minister　that　lives　upon　the　coast；　whose　elegance　of
conversation；　and　strength　of　judgment；　would　make　him　conspicuous
in　places　of　greater　celebrity。　　Next　day　we　dined　with　Dr。
Maclean；　another　physician；　and　then　travelled　on　to　the　house　of　a
very　powerful　Laird；　Maclean　of　Lochbuy；　for　in　this　country　every
man's　name　is　Maclean。

Where　races　are　thus　numerous；　and　thus　combined；　none　but　the
Chief　of　a　clan　is　addressed　by　his　name。　　The　Laird　of　Dunvegan　is
called　Macleod；　but　other　gentlemen　of　the　same　family　are
denominated　by　the　places　where　they　reside；　as　Raasa；　or　Talisker。
The　distinction　of　the　meaner　people　is　made　by　their　Christian
names。　　In　consequence　of　this　practice；　the　late　Laird　of
Macfarlane；　an　eminent　genealogist；　considered