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take my Bible oath that it was not made there; and that the priests 

kept it all for themselves。







CHAPTER XCIX







A cloister … Half English … New acquaintance … Mixed liquors … 


Turning Papist … Purposes of charity … Foreign religion … 

Melancholy … Elbowing and pushing … Outlandish sight … The figure … 

I don't care for you … Merry…andrews … One good … Religion of my 

country … Fellow of spirit … A dispute … The next morning … Female 

doll … Proper dignity … Fetish country。



'THE day after our arrival;' continued the postilion; 'I was sent; 

under the guidance of a lackey of the place; with a letter; which 

the priest; when he left; had given us for a friend of his in the 

Eternal City。  We went to a large house; and on ringing were 

admitted by a porter into a cloister; where I saw some ill…looking; 

shabby young fellows walking about; who spoke English to one 

another。  To one of these the porter delivered the letter; and the 

young fellow; going away; presently returned and told me to follow 

him; he led me into a large room where; behind a table on which 

were various papers and a thing which they call; in that country; a 

crucifix; sat a man in a kind of priestly dress。  The lad having 

opened the door for me; shut it behind me; and went away。  The man 

behind the table was so engaged in reading the letter which I had 

brought; that at first he took no notice of me; he had red hair; a 

kind of half…English countenance; and was seemingly about five…and…

thirty。  After a little time he laid the letter down; appeared to 

consider a moment; and then opened his mouth with a strange laugh; 

not a loud laugh; for I heard nothing but a kind of hissing deep 

down the throat; all of a sudden; however; perceiving me; he gave a 

slight start; but; instantly recovering himself; he inquired in 

English concerning the health of the family; and where we lived:  

on my delivering him a card; he bade me inform my master and the 

ladies that in the course of the day he would do himself the honour 

of waiting upon them。  He then arose and opened the door for me to 

depart。  The man was perfectly civil and courteous; but I did not 

like that strange laugh of his after having read the letter。  He 

was as good as his word; and that same day paid us a visit。  It was 

now arranged that we should pass the winter in Rome … to my great 

annoyance; for I wished to return to my native land; being heartily 

tired of everything connected with Italy。  I was not; however; 

without hope that our young master would shortly arrive; when I 

trusted that matters; as far as the family were concerned; would be 

put on a better footing。  In a few days our new acquaintance; who; 

it seems; was a mongrel Englishman; had procured a house for our 

accommodation; it was large enough; but not near so pleasant as 

that we had at Naples; which was light and airy; with a large 

garden。  This was a dark gloomy structure in a narrow street; with 

a frowning church beside it; it was not far from the place where 

our new friend lived; and its being so was probably the reason why 

he selected it。  It was furnished partly with articles which we 

bought; and partly with those which we hired。  We lived something 

in the same way as at Naples; but though I did not much like 

Naples; I yet liked it better than this place; which was so gloomy。  

Our new acquaintance made himself as agreeable as he could; 

conducting the ladies to churches and convents; and frequently 

passing the afternoon drinking with the governor; who was fond of a 

glass of brandy and water and a cigar; as the new acquaintance also 

was … no; I remember; he was fond of gin and water; and did not 

smoke。  I don't think he had so much influence over the young 

ladies as the other priest; which was; perhaps; owing to his not 

being so good…looking; but I am sure he had more influence with the 

governor; owing; doubtless; to his bearing him company in drinking 

mixed liquors; which the other priest did not do。



'He was a strange fellow; that same new acquaintance of ours; and 

unlike all the priests I saw in that country; and I saw plenty of 

various nations; they were always upon their guard; and had their 

features and voice modulated; but this man was subject to fits of 

absence; during which he would frequently mutter to himself; then; 

though he was perfectly civil to everybody; as far as words went; I 

observed that he entertained a thorough contempt for most people; 

especially for those whom he was making dupes。  I have observed him 

whilst drinking with our governor; when the old man's head was 

turned; look at him with an air which seemed to say; 〃What a 

thundering old fool you are〃; and at our young ladies; when their 

backs were turned; with a glance which said distinctly enough; 〃You 

precious pair of ninnyhammers〃; and then his laugh … he had two 

kinds of laughs … one which you could hear; and another which you 

could only see。  I have seen him laugh at our governor and the 

young ladies; when their heads were turned away; but I heard no 

sound。  My mother had a sandy cat; which sometimes used to open its 

mouth wide with a mew which nobody could hear; and the silent laugh 

of that red…haired priest used to put me wonderfully in mind of the 

silent mew of my mother's sandy…red cat。  And then the other laugh; 

which you could hear; what a strange laugh that was; never loud; 

yes; I have heard it tolerably loud。  He once passed near me; after 

having taken leave of a silly English fellow … a limping parson of 

the name of Platitude; who; they said; was thinking of turning 

Papist; and was much in his company; I was standing behind the 

pillar of a piazza; and as he passed he was laughing heartily。  O 

he was a strange fellow; that same red…haired acquaintance of ours!



'After we had been at Rome about six weeks our old friend the 

priest of Naples arrived; but without his subordinate; for whose 

services he now perhaps thought that he had no occasion。  I believe 

he found matters in our family wearing almost as favourable an 

aspect as he could desire:  with what he had previously taught them 

and shown them at Naples and elsewhere; and with what the red…

haired confederate had taught them and shown them at Rome; the poor 

young ladies had become quite handmaids of superstition; so that 

they; especially the youngest; were prepared to bow down to 

anything; and kiss anything; however vile and ugly; provided a 

priest commanded them; and as for the old governor; what with the 

influence which his daughters exerted; and what with the ascendency 

which the red…haired man had obtained over him; he dared not say 

his purse; far less his soul; was his own。  Only think of an 

Englishman not being master of his own purse!  My acquaintance; the 

lady's maid; assured me that; to her certain knowledge; he had 

disbursed to the red…haired man; for purposes of charity; as it was 

said; at least one thousand pounds during the five weeks we had 

been at Rome。  She also told me that things would shortly be 

brought to a conclusion … and so indeed they were; though in a 

different manner from what she and I and some other people 

imagined; that there was to be a grand festival; and a mass; at 

which we were to be present; after which the family were to be 

presented to the Holy Father; for so those two priestly sharks had 

managed it; and then 。 。 。 she said she was certain that the two 

ladies; and perhaps the old governor; would forsake the religion of 

their native land; taking up with that of these foreign regions; 

for so my fellow…servant expressed it; and that perhaps attempts 

might be made to induce us poor English servants to take up with 

the foreign religion; that is herself and me; for as for our 

fellow…servant; the other maid; she wanted no inducing; being 

disposed body and soul to go over to it。  Whereupon I swore with an 

oath that nothing should induce me to take up with the foreign 

religion; and the poor maid; my fellow…servant; bursting into 

tears; said that for her part she would die sooner than have 

anything to do with it; thereupon we shook hands and agreed to 

stand by and countenance one another:  and moreover; provided our 

governors were fools enough to go over to the religion of these 

here foreigners; we would not wait to be asked to do the like; but 

leave them at once; and make the best of our way home; even if we 

were forced to beg on the road。



'At last the day of the grand festival came; and we were all to go 

to the big church to hear the mass。  Now it happened that for some 

time past I had been much afflicted with melancholy; especially 

when I got up of a morning; produced by the strange manner in which 

I saw things going on in our family; and to dispel it in some 

degree; I had been in the habit of taking a dram before breakfast。  

On the morning in question; feeling particularly low spirited when 

I thought of the foolish step our governor would probably take 

before evening; I took two drams before breakfast; and after 

breakfast; feeling my melancholy still continuing; I took another; 

which produced a slight effect upon my head; though I am convinced 

nobody observed it。



'Away we drove to the big church; it was a dark misty day; I 

remember; and very cold; so that if anybody had noticed my being 

slightly in liquor; I could have excused myself by saying that I 

had merely taken a glass to fortify my constitution against the 

weather; and of one thing I am certain; which is; that such an 

excuse would have stood me in stead with our governor; who looked; 

I thought; as if he had taken one too; but I may be mistaken; and 

why should I notice him; seeing that he took no notice of me? so 

away we drove to the big church; to which all the population of the 

place appeared to be moving。



'On arriving t

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