unbeaten tracks in japan-第11部分

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sweetmeats　made　of　black　beans　and　sugar；　all　sorts　of　boxes；
trays；　cups；　and　stands；　made　of　plain；　polished　wood；　and　more
grotesque　articles　made　from　the　roots　of　trees。

It　was　not　part　of　my　plan　to　stay　at　the　beautiful　yadoya　which
receives　foreigners　in　Hachiishi；　and　I　sent　Ito　half　a　mile
farther　with　a　note　in　Japanese　to　the　owner　of　the　house　where　I
now　am；　while　I　sat　on　a　rocky　eminence　at　the　top　of　the　street；
unmolested　by　anybody；　looking　over　to　the　solemn　groves　upon　the
mountains；　where　the　two　greatest　of　the　Shoguns　〃sleep　in　glory。〃
Below；　the　rushing　Daiyagawa；　swollen　by　the　night's　rain；
thundered　through　a　narrow　gorge。　　Beyond；　colossal　flights　of
stone　stairs　stretch　mysteriously　away　among　cryptomeria　groves；
above　which　tower　the　Nikkosan　mountains。　　Just　where　the　torrent
finds　its　impetuosity　checked　by　two　stone　walls；　it　is　spanned　by
a　bridge；　84　feet　long　by　18　wide；　of　dull　red　lacquer；　resting　on
two　stone　piers　on　either　side；　connected　by　two　transverse　stone
beams。　　A　welcome　bit　of　colour　it　is　amidst　the　masses　of　dark
greens　and　soft　greys；　though　there　is　nothing　imposing　in　its
structure；　and　its　interest　consists　in　being　the　Mihashi；　or
Sacred　Bridge；　built　in　1636；　formerly　open　only　to　the　Shoguns；
the　envoy　of　the　Mikado；　and　to　pilgrims　twice　a　year。　　Both　its
gates　are　locked。　　Grand　and　lonely　Nikko　looks；　the　home　of　rain
and　mist。　　Kuruma　roads　end　here；　and　if　you　wish　to　go　any
farther；　you　must　either　walk；　ride；　or　be　carried。

Ito　was　long　away；　and　the　coolies　kept　addressing　me　in　Japanese；
which　made　me　feel　helpless　and　solitary；　and　eventually　they
shouldered　my　baggage；　and；　descending　a　flight　of　steps；　we
crossed　the　river　by　the　secular　bridge；　and　shortly　met　my　host；
Kanaya；　a　very　bright；　pleasant…looking　man；　who　bowed　nearly　to
the　earth。　　Terraced　roads　in　every　direction　lead　through
cryptomerias　to　the　shrines；　and　this　one　passes　many　a　stately
enclosure；　but　leads　away　from　the　temples；　and　though　it　is　the
highway　to　Chiuzenjii；　a　place　of　popular　pilgrimage；　Yumoto；　a
place　of　popular　resort；　and　several　other　villages；　it　is　very
rugged；　and；　having　flights　of　stone　steps　at　intervals；　is　only
practicable　for　horses　and　pedestrians。

At　the　house；　with　the　appearance　of　which　I　was　at　once　delighted；
I　regretfully　parted　with　my　coolies；　who　had　served　me　kindly　and
faithfully。　　They　had　paid　me　many　little　attentions；　such　as
always　beating　the　dust　out　of　my　dress；　inflating　my　air…pillow；
and　bringing　me　flowers；　and　were　always　grateful　when　I　walked　up
hills；　and　just　now；　after　going　for　a　frolic　to　the　mountains；
they　called　to　wish　me　good…bye；　bringing　branches　of　azaleas。　　I。
L。　B。



LETTER　VII



A　Japanese　IdyllMusical　Stillness　　…My　RoomsFloral　Decorations…
…Kanaya　and　his　HouseholdTable　Equipments。

KANAYA'S；　NIKKO；　June　15。

I　don't　know　what　to　write　about　my　house。　　It　is　a　Japanese　idyll；
there　is　nothing　within　or　without　which　does　not　please　the　eye；
and；　after　the　din　of　yadoyas；　its　silence；　musical　with　the　dash
of　waters　and　the　twitter　of　birds；　is　truly　refreshing。　　It　is　a
simple　but　irregular　two…storied　pavilion；　standing　on　a　stone…
faced　terrace　approached　by　a　flight　of　stone　steps。　　The　garden　is
well　laid　out；　and；　as　peonies；　irises；　and　azaleas　are　now　in
blossom；　it　is　very　bright。　　The　mountain；　with　its　lower　part
covered　with　red　azaleas；　rises　just　behind；　and　a　stream　which
tumbles　down　it　supplies　the　house　with　water；　both　cold　and　pure；
and　another；　after　forming　a　miniature　cascade；　passes　under　the
house　and　through　a　fish…pond　with　rocky　islets　into　the　river
below。　　The　grey　village　of　Irimichi　lies　on　the　other　side　of　the
road；　shut　in　with　the　rushing　Daiya；　and　beyond　it　are　high；
broken　hills；　richly　wooded；　and　slashed　with　ravines　and
waterfalls。

Kanaya's　sister；　a　very　sweet；　refined…looking　woman；　met　me　at　the
door　and　divested　me　of　my　boots。　　The　two　verandahs　are　highly
polished；　so　are　the　entrance　and　the　stairs　which　lead　to　my　room；
and　the　mats　are　so　fine　and　white　that　I　almost　fear　to　walk　over
them；　even　in　my　stockings。　　The　polished　stairs　lead　to　a　highly
polished；　broad　verandah　with　a　beautiful　view；　from　which　you
enter　one　large　room；　which；　being　too　large；　was　at　once　made　into
two。　　Four　highly　polished　steps　lead　from　this　into　an　exquisite
room　at　the　back；　which　Ito　occupies；　and　another　polished
staircase　into　the　bath…house　and　garden。　　The　whole　front　of　my
room　is　composed　of　shoji；　which　slide　back　during　the　day。　　The
ceiling　is　of　light　wood　crossed　by　bars　of　dark　wood；　and　the
posts　which　support　it　are　of　dark　polished　wood。　　The　panels　are
of　wrinkled　sky…blue　paper　splashed　with　gold。　　At　one　end　are　two
alcoves　with　floors　of　polished　wood；　called　tokonoma。　　In　one
hangs　a　kakemono；　or　wall…picture；　a　painting　of　a　blossoming
branch　of　the　cherry　on　white　silka　perfect　piece　of　art；　which
in　itself　fills　the　room　with　freshness　and　beauty。　　The　artist　who
painted　it　painted　nothing　but　cherry　blossoms；　and　fell　in　the
rebellion。　　On　a　shelf　in　the　other　alcove　is　a　very　valuable
cabinet　with　sliding　doors；　on　which　peonies　are　painted　on　a　gold
ground。　　A　single　spray　of　rose　azalea　in　a　pure　white　vase　hanging
on　one　of　the　polished　posts；　and　a　single　iris　in　another；　are　the
only　decorations。　　The　mats　are　very　fine　and　white；　but　the　only
furniture　is　a　folding　screen　with　some　suggestions　of　landscape　in
Indian　ink。　　I　almost　wish　that　the　rooms　were　a　little　less
exquisite；　for　I　am　in　constant　dread　of　spilling　the　ink；
indenting　the　mats；　or　tearing　the　paper　windows。　　Downstairs　there
is　a　room　equally　beautiful；　and　a　large　space　where　all　the
domestic　avocations　are　carried　on。　　There　is　a　kura；　or　fire…proof
storehouse；　with　a　tiled　roof；　on　the　right　of　the　house。

Kanaya　leads　the　discords　at　the　Shinto　shrines；　but　his　duties　are
few；　and　he　is　chiefly　occupied　in　perpetually　embellishing　his
house　and　garden。　　His　mother；　a　venerable　old　lady；　and　his
sister；　the　sweetest　and　most　graceful　Japanese　woman　but　one　that
I　have　seen；　live　with　him。　　She　moves　about　the　house　like　a
floating　fairy；　and　her　voice　has　music　in　its　tones。　　A　half…
witted　servant…man　and　the　sister's　boy　and　girl　complete　the
family。　　Kanaya　is　the　chief　man　in　the　village；　and　is　very
intelligent　and　apparently　well　educated。　　He　has　divorced　his
wife；　and　his　sister　has　practically　divorced　her　husband。　　Of
late；　to　help　his　income；　he　has　let　these　charming　rooms　to
foreigners　who　have　brought　letters　to　him；　and　he　is　very　anxious
to　meet　their　views；　while　his　good　taste　leads　him　to　avoid
Europeanising　his　beautiful　home。

Supper　came　up　on　a　zen；　or　small　table　six　inches　high；　of　old
gold　lacquer；　with　the　rice　in　a　gold　lacquer　bowl；　and　the　teapot
and　cup　were　fine　Kaga　porcelain。　　For　my　two　rooms；　with　rice　and
tea；　I　pay　2s。　a　day。　　Ito　forages　for　me；　and　can　occasionally　get
chickens　at　10d。　each；　and　a　dish　of　trout　for　6d。；　and　eggs　are
always　to　be　had　for　1d。　each。　　It　is　extremely　interesting　to　live
in　a　private　house　and　to　see　the　externalities；　at　least；　of
domestic　life　in　a　Japanese　middle…class　home。　　I。　L。　B。



LETTER　VIII



The　Beauties　of　NikkoThe　Burial　of　IyeyasuThe　Approach　to　the
Great　ShrinesThe　Yomei　GateGorgeous　DecorationsSimplicity　of
the　MausoleumThe　Shrine　of　IyemitsuReligious　Art　of　Japan　and
IndiaAn　EarthquakeBeauties　of　Wood…carving。

KANAYA'S；　NIKKO；　June　21。

I　have　been　at　Nikko　for　nine　days；　and　am　therefore　entitled　to
use　the　word　〃Kek'ko！〃

Nikko　means　〃sunny　splendour；〃　and　its　beauties　are　celebrated　in
poetry　and　art　all　over　Japan。　　Mountains　for　a　great　part　of　the
year　clothed　or　patched　with　snow；　piled　in　great　ranges　round
Nantaizan；　their　monarch；　worshipped　as　a　god；　forests　of
magnificent　timber；　ravines　and　passes　scarcely　explored；　dark
green　lakes　sleeping　in　endless　serenity；　the　deep　abyss　of　Kegon；
into　which　the　waters　of　Chiuzenjii　plunge　from　a　height　of　250
feet；　the　bright　beauty　of　the　falls　of　Kiri　Furi；　the　loveliness
of　the　gardens　of　Dainichido；　the　sombre　grandeur　of　the　passes
through　which　the　Daiyagawa　forces　its　way　from　the　upper　regions；
a　gorgeousness　of　azaleas　and　magnolias；　and　a　luxuriousness　of
vegetation　perhaps　unequalled　in　Japan；　are　only　a　few　of　the
attractions　which　surround　the　shrines　of　the　two　greatest　Shoguns。

To　a　glorious　resting…place　on　the　hill…slope　of　Hotoke　Iwa；　sacred
since　767；　when　a　Buddhist　saint；　called　Shodo　Shonin；　visited　it；
and　declared　the　old　Shinto　deity　of　the　mountain　to　be　only　a
manifestation　of　Buddha；　Hidetada；　the　second　Shogun　of　the
Tokugawa　dynasty；　conveyed　the　corpse　of　his　father；　Iyeyasu；　in
1617。　　It　was　a　splendid　burial。　　An　Imperial　envoy；　a　priest　of
the　Mikado's　family；　court　nobles　from　Kivoto；　and　hundreds　of
daimiyos；　captains；　and　nobles　of　inferior　rank；　took　part　in　the
ceremony。　　An　army　of　priests　in　rich　robes　during　three　days
intoned　a　sacred　classic　10；000　times；　and　Iyeyasu　was　deified　by　a
decree　of　the　Mikado　under　a　name　signifying　〃light　of　the　east；
great　incarnation　of　Buddha。〃　　The　less　important　Shoguns　of　the
line　of　Tokugawa　are　buried　in　Uyeno　and　Shiba；　in　Yedo。　　Since　the
restoration；　and　what　may　be　called　the　disestablishment　of
Buddhism；　the　shrine　of　Iyeyasu　has　been　shorn　of　all　its　glories
of　ritual　and　its　magnificent　Buddhist　paraphernalia；　the　200
priests　who　gave　it　splendour　are　scattered；　and　six　Shinto　priests
alternately　attend　upon　it　as　much　for　the　purpose　of　selling
tickets　of　admission　as　for　any　priestly　duties。

All　roads；　bridges；　and　avenues　here　lead　to　these　shrines；　but　the
grand　approach　is　by　the　Red　Bridge；　and　up　a　broad　road　with　steps
at　intervals　and　stone…faced　embankments　at　each　side；　on　the　top
of　which　are　belts　of　cryptomeria。　　At　the　summit　of　this　ascent　is
a　fine　granite　torii；　27　feet　6　inches　high；　with　columns　3　feet　6
inches　in　diameter；　offered　by　the　daimiyo　of　Chikuzen　in　1618　from
his　own　quarries。　　After　this　come　118　magnificent　bronze　lanterns
on　massive　st