unbeaten tracks in japan-第26部分

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〃unbeaten　tracks〃　that　I　wish　to　take；　the　answers　are；　〃It's　an
awful　road　through　mountains；〃　or　〃There　are　many　bad　rivers　to
cross；〃　or　〃There　are　none　but　farmers'　houses　to　stop　at。〃　　No
encouragement　is　ever　given；　but　we　get　on；　and　shall　get　on；　I
doubt　not；　though　the　hardships　are　not　what　I　would　desire　in　my
present　state　of　health。

Very　few　horses　are　kept　here。　　Cows　and　coolies　carry　much　of　the
merchandise；　and　women　as　well　as　men　carry　heavy　loads。　　A　baggage
coolie　carries　about　50　lbs。；　but　here　merchants　carrying　their　own
goods　from　Yamagata　actually　carry　from　90　to　140　lbs。；　and　even
more。　　It　is　sickening　to　meet　these　poor　fellows　struggling　over
the　mountain…passes　in　evident　distress。　　Last　night　five　of　them
were　resting　on　the　summit　ridge　of　a　pass　gasping　violently。
Their　eyes　were　starting　out；　all　their　muscles；　rendered　painfully
visible　by　their　leanness；　were　quivering；　rills　of　blood　from　the
bite　of　insects；　which　they　cannot　drive　away；　were　literally
running　all　over　their　naked　bodies；　washed　away　here　and　there　by
copious　perspiration。　　Truly　〃in　the　sweat　of　their　brows〃　they
were　eating　bread　and　earning　an　honest　living　for　their　families！
Suffering　and　hard…worked　as　they　were；　they　were　quite
independent。　　I　have　not　seen　a　beggar　or　beggary　in　this　strange
country。　　The　women　were　carrying　70　lbs。　　These　burden…bearers
have　their　backs　covered　by　a　thick　pad　of　plaited　straw。　　On　this
rests　a　ladder；　curved　up　at　the　lower　end　like　the　runners　of　a
sleigh。　　On　this　the　load　is　carefully　packed　till　it　extends　from
below　the　man's　waist　to　a　considerable　height　above　his　head。　　It
is　covered　with　waterproof　paper；　securely　roped；　and　thatched　with
straw；　and　is　supported　by　a　broad　padded　band　just　below　the
collar　bones。　　Of　course；　as　the　man　walks　nearly　bent　double；　and
the　position　is　a　very　painful　one；　he　requires　to　stop　and
straighten　himself　frequently；　and　unless　he　meets　with　a　bank　of
convenient　height；　he　rests　the　bottom　of　his　burden　on　a　short；
stout　pole　with　an　L…shaped　top；　carried　for　this　purpose。　　The
carrying　of　enormous　loads　is　quite　a　feature　of　this　region；　and
so；　I　am　sorry　to　say；　are　red　stinging　ants　and　the　small　gadflies
which　molest　the　coolies。

Yesterday's　journey　was　18　miles　in　twelve　hours！　　Ichinono　is　a
nice；　industrious　hamlet；　given　up；　like　all　others；　to　rearing
silk…worms；　and　the　pure　white　and　sulphur　yellow　cocoons　are
drying　on　mats　in　the　sun　everywhere。

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　XVIII



Comely　KineJapanese　Criticism　on　a　Foreign　UsageA　Pleasant
HaltRenewed　CourtesiesThe　Plain　of　YonezawaA　Curious　Mistake…
…The　Mother's　MemorialArrival　at　KomatsuStately　Accommodation
A　Vicious　HorseAn　Asiatic　ArcadiaA　Fashionable　Watering…place
A　Belle〃Godowns。〃

KAMINOYAMA。

A　severe　day　of　mountain　travelling　brought　us　into　another　region。
We　left　Ichinono　early　on　a　fine　morning；　with　three　pack…cows；　one
of　which　I　rode　＇and　their　calves＇；　very　comely　kine；　with　small
noses；　short　horns；　straight　spines；　and　deep　bodies。　　I　thought
that　I　might　get　some　fresh　milk；　but　the　idea　of　anything　but　a
calf　milking　a　cow　was　so　new　to　the　people　that　there　was　a
universal　laugh；　and　Ito　told　me　that　they　thought　it　〃most
disgusting；〃　and　that　the　Japanese　think　it　〃most　disgusting〃　in
foreigners　to　put　anything　〃with　such　a　strong　smell　and　taste〃
into　their　tea！　　All　the　cows　had　cotton　cloths；　printed　with　blue
dragons；　suspended　under　their　bodies　to　keep　them　from　mud　and
insects；　and　they　wear　straw　shoes　and　cords　through　the　cartilages
of　their　noses。　　The　day　being　fine；　a　great　deal　of　rice　and　sake
was　on　the　move；　and　we　met　hundreds　of　pack…cows；　all　of　the　same
comely　breed；　in　strings　of　four。

We　crossed　the　Sakuratoge；　from　which　the　view　is　beautiful；　got
horses　at　the　mountain　village　of　Shirakasawa；　crossed　more　passes；
and　in　the　afternoon　reached　the　village　of　Tenoko。　　There；　as
usual；　I　sat　under　the　verandah　of　the　Transport　Office；　and　waited
for　the　one　horse　which　was　available。　　It　was　a　large　shop；　but
contained　not　a　single　article　of　European　make。　　In　the　one　room　a
group　of　women　and　children　sat　round　the　fire；　and　the　agent　sat
as　usual　with　a　number　of　ledgers　at　a　table　a　foot　high；　on　which
his　grandchild　was　lying　on　a　cushion。　　Here　Ito　dined　on　seven
dishes　of　horrors；　and　they　brought　me　sake；　tea；　rice；　and　black
beans。　　The　last　are　very　good。　　We　had　some　talk　about　the
country；　and　the　man　asked　me　to　write　his　name　in　English
characters；　and　to　write　my　own　in　a　book。　　Meanwhile　a　crowd
assembled；　and　the　front　row　sat　on　the　ground　that　the　others
might　see　over　their　heads。　　They　were　dirty　and　pressed　very
close；　and　when　the　women　of　the　house　saw　that　I　felt　the　heat
they　gracefully　produced　fans　and　fanned　me　for　a　whole　hour。　　On
asking　the　charge　they　refused　to　make　any；　and　would　not　receive
anything。　　They　had　not　seen　a　foreigner　before；　they　said；　they
would　despise　themselves　for　taking　anything；　they　had　my
〃honourable　name〃　in　their　book。　　Not　only　that；　but　they　put　up　a
parcel　of　sweetmeats；　and　the　man　wrote　his　name　on　a　fan　and
insisted　on　my　accepting　it。　　I　was　grieved　to　have　nothing　to　give
them　but　some　English　pins；　but　they　had　never　seen　such　before；
and　soon　circulated　them　among　the　crowd。　　I　told　them　truly　that　I
should　remember　them　as　long　as　I　remember　Japan；　and　went　on；　much
touched　by　their　kindness。

The　lofty　pass　of　Utsu；　which　is　ascended　and　descended　by　a　number
of　stone　slabs；　is　the　last　of　the　passes　of　these　choked…up
ranges。　　From　its　summit　in　the　welcome　sunlight　I　joyfully　looked
down　upon　the　noble　plain　of　Yonezawa；　about　30　miles　long　and　from
10　to　18　broad；　one　of　the　gardens　of　Japan；　wooded　and　watered；
covered　with　prosperous　towns　and　villages；　surrounded　by
magnificent　mountains　not　altogether　timbered；　and　bounded　at　its
southern　extremity　by　ranges　white　with　snow　even　in　the　middle　of
July。

In　the　long　street　of　the　farming　village　of　Matsuhara　a　man　amazed
me　by　running　in　front　of　me　and　speaking　to　me；　and　on　Ito　coming
up；　he　assailed　him　vociferously；　and　it　turned　out　that　he　took　me
for　an　Aino；　one　of　the　subjugated　aborigines　of　Yezo。　　I　have
before　now　been　taken　for　a　Chinese！

Throughout　the　province　of　Echigo　I　have　occasionally　seen　a　piece
of　cotton　cloth　suspended　by　its　four　corners　from　four　bamboo
poles　just　above　a　quiet　stream。　　Behind　it　there　is　usually　a　long
narrow　tablet；　notched　at　the　top；　similar　to　those　seen　in
cemeteries；　with　characters　upon　it。　　Sometimes　bouquets　of　flowers
are　placed　in　the　hollow　top　of　each　bamboo；　and　usually　there　are
characters　on　the　cloth　itself。　　Within　it　always　lies　a　wooden
dipper。　　In　coming　down　from　Tenoko　I　passed　one　of　these　close　to
the　road；　and　a　Buddhist　priest　was　at　the　time　pouring　a　dipper
full　of　water　into　it；　which　strained　slowly　through。　　As　he　was
going　our　way　we　joined　him；　and　he　explained　its　meaning。

According　to　him　the　tablet　bears　on　it　the　kaimiyo；　or　posthumous
name　of　a　woman。　　The　flowers　have　the　same　significance　as　those
which　loving　hands　place　on　the　graves　of　kindred。　　If　there　are
characters　on　the　cloth；　they　represent　the　well…known　invocation
of　the　Nichiren　sect；　Namu　mio　ho　ren　ge　kio。　　The　pouring　of　the
water　into　the　cloth；　often　accompanied　by　telling　the　beads　on　a
rosary；　is　a　prayer。　　The　whole　is　called　〃The　Flowing　Invocation。〃
I　have　seldom　seen　anything　more　plaintively　affecting；　for　it
denotes　that　a　mother　in　the　first　joy　of　maternity　has　passed　away
to　suffer　（according　to　popular　belief）　in　the　Lake　of　Blood；　one
of　the　Buddhist　hells；　for　a　sin　committed　in　a　former　state　of
being；　and　it　appeals　to　every　passer…by　to　shorten　the　penalties
of　a　woman　in　anguish；　for　in　that　lake　she　must　remain　until　the
cloth　is　so　utterly　worn　out　that　the　water　falls　through　it　at
once。

Where　the　mountains　come　down　upon　the　plain　of　Yonezawa　there　are
several　raised　banks；　and　you　can　take　one　step　from　the　hillside
to　a　dead　level。　　The　soil　is　dry　and　gravelly　at　the　junction；
ridges　of　pines　appeared；　and　the　look　of　the　houses　suggested
increased　cleanliness　and　comfort。　　A　walk　of　six　miles　took　us
from　Tenoko　to　Komatsu；　a　beautifully　situated　town　of　3000　people；
with　a　large　trade　in　cotton　goods；　silk；　and　sake。

As　I　entered　Komatsu　the　first　man　whom　I　met　turned　back　hastily；
called　into　the　first　house　the　words　which　mean　〃Quick；　here's　a
foreigner；〃　the　three　carpenters　who　were　at　work　there　flung　down
their　tools　and；　without　waiting　to　put　on　their　kimonos；　sped　down
the　street　calling　out　the　news；　so　that　by　the　time　I　reached　the
yadoya　a　large　crowd　was　pressing　upon　me。　　The　front　was　mean　and
unpromising…looking；　but；　on　reaching　the　back　by　a　stone　bridge
over　a　stream　which　ran　through　the　house；　I　found　a　room　40　feet
long　by　15　high；　entirely　open　along　one　side　to　a　garden　with　a
large　fish…pond　with　goldfish；　a　pagoda；　dwarf　trees；　and　all　the
usual　miniature　adornments。　　Fusuma　of　wrinkled　blue　paper　splashed
with　gold　turned　this　〃gallery〃　into　two　rooms；　but　there　was　no
privacy；　for　the　crowds　climbed　upon　the　roofs　at　the　back；　and　sat
there　patiently　until　night。

These　were　daimiyo's　rooms。　　The　posts　and　ceilings　were　ebony　and
gold；　the　mats　very　fine；　the　polished　alcoves　decorated　with
inlaid　writing…tables　and　sword…racks；　spears　nine　feet　long；　with
handles　of　lacquer　inlaid　with　Venus'　ear；　hung　in　the　verandah；
the　washing　bowl　was　fine　inlaid　black　lacquer；　and　the　rice…bowls
and　their　covers　were　gold　lacquer。

In　this；　as　in　many　other　yadoyas；　there　were　kakemonos　with　large
Chinese　characters　representing　the　names　of　the　Prime　Minister；
Provincial　Governor；　or　distinguished　General；　who　had　honoured　it
by　halting　there；　and　lines　of　poetry　were　hung　up；　as　is　usual；　in
the　same　fashion。　　I　have　several　times　been　asked　to　write
something　to　be　thus　displayed。　　I　spent　Sunday　at　Komatsu；　but　not
restfully；　owing　to　the　nocturnal　croaking　of　the　frogs　in　the
pond。　　In　it；　as　in　most　towns；　there　were　shops　which