unbeaten tracks in japan-第30部分

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soon　as　I　put　my　hand　on　the　saddle　he　swung　his　hind　legs　round　to
kick　me；　and　it　required　some　agility　to　avoid　being　hurt。　　Nor　was
this　all。　　The　evil　beast　made　dashes　with　his　tethered　head　at
flies；　threatening　to　twist　or　demolish　my　foot　at　each；　flung　his
hind　legs　upwards；　attempted　to　dislodge　flies　on　his　nose　with　his
hind　hoof；　executed　capers　which　involved　a　total　disappearance　of
everything　in　front　of　the　saddle；　squealed；　stumbled；　kicked　his
old　shoes　off；　and　resented　the　feeble　attempts　which　the　mago　made
to　replace　them；　and　finally　walked　in　to　Yokote　and　down　its　long
and　dismal　street　mainly　on　his　hind　legs；　shaking　the　rope　out　of
his　timid　leader's　hand；　and　shaking　me　into　a　sort　of　aching
jelly！　　I　used　to　think　that　horses　were　made　vicious　either　by
being　teased　or　by　violence　in　breaking；　but　this　does　not　account
for　the　malignity　of　the　Japanese　horses；　for　the　people　are　so
much　afraid　of　them　that　they　treat　them　with　great　respect：　　they
are　not　beaten　or　kicked；　are　spoken　to　in　soothing　tones；　and；　on
the　whole；　live　better　than　their　masters。　　Perhaps　this　is　the
secret　of　their　villainy〃Jeshurun　waxed　fat　and　kicked。〃

Yokote；　a　town　of　10；000　people；　in　which　the　best　yadoyas　are　all
non…respectable；　is　an　ill…favoured；　ill…smelling；　forlorn；　dirty；
damp；　miserable　place；　with　a　large　trade　in　cottons。　　As　I　rode
through　on　my　temporary　biped　the　people　rushed　out　from　the　baths
to　see　me；　men　and　women　alike　without　a　particle　of　clothing。　　The
house…master　was　very　polite；　but　I　had　a　dark　and　dirty　room；　up　a
bamboo　ladder；　and　it　swarmed　with　fleas　and　mosquitoes　to　an
exasperating　extent。　　On　the　way　I　heard　that　a　bullock　was　killed
every　Thursday　in　Yokote；　and　had　decided　on　having　a　broiled　steak
for　supper　and　taking　another　with　me；　but　when　I　arrived　it　was
all　sold；　there　were　no　eggs；　and　I　made　a　miserable　meal　of　rice
and　bean　curd；　feeling　somewhat　starved；　as　the　condensed　milk　I
bought　at　Yamagata　had　to　be　thrown　away。　　I　was　somewhat　wretched
from　fatigue　and　inflamed　ant　bites；　but　in　the　early　morning；　hot
and　misty　as　all　the　mornings　have　been；　I　went　to　see　a　Shinto
temple；　or　miya；　and；　though　I　went　alone；　escaped　a　throng。

The　entrance　into　the　temple　court　was；　as　usual；　by　a　torii；　which
consisted　of　two　large　posts　20　feet　high；　surmounted　with　cross
beams；　the　upper　one　of　which　projects　beyond　the　posts　and
frequently　curves　upwards　at　both　ends。　　The　whole；　as　is　often　the
case；　was　painted　a　dull　red。　　This　torii；　or　〃birds'　rest；〃　is
said　to　be　so　called　because　the　fowls；　which　were　formerly　offered
but　not　sacrificed；　were　accustomed　to　perch　upon　it。　　A　straw
rope；　with　straw　tassels　and　strips　of　paper　hanging　from　it；　the
special　emblem　of　Shinto；　hung　across　the　gateway。　　In　the　paved
court　there　were　several　handsome　granite　lanterns　on　fine　granite
pedestals；　such　as　are　the　nearly　universal　accompaniments　of　both
Shinto　and　Buddhist　temples。

After　leaving　Yakote　we　passed　through　very　pretty　country　with
mountain　views　and　occasional　glimpses　of　the　snowy　dome　of
Chokaizan；　crossed　the　Omono　（which　has　burst　its　banks　and
destroyed　its　bridges）　by　two　troublesome　ferries；　and　arrived　at
Rokugo；　a　town　of　5000　people；　with　fine　temples；　exceptionally
mean　houses；　and　the　most　aggressive　crowd　by　which　I　have　yet　been
asphyxiated。

There；　through　the　good　offices　of　the　police；　I　was　enabled　to
attend　a　Buddhist　funeral　of　a　merchant　of　some　wealth。　　It
interested　me　very　much　from　its　solemnity　and　decorum；　and　Ito's
explanations　of　what　went　before　were　remarkably　distinctly　given。
I　went　in　a　Japanese　woman's　dress；　borrowed　at　the　tea…house；　with
a　blue　hood　over　my　head；　and　thus　escaped　all　notice；　but　I　found
the　restraint　of　the　scanty　〃tied　forward〃　kimono　very　tiresome。
Ito　gave　me　many　injunctions　as　to　what　I　was　to　do　and　avoid；
which　I　carried　out　faithfully；　being　nervously　anxious　to　avoid
jarring　on　the　sensibilities　of　those　who　had　kindly　permitted　a
foreigner　to　be　present。

The　illness　was　a　short　one；　and　there　had　been　no　time　either　for
prayers　or　pilgrimages　on　the　sick　man's　behalf。　　When　death　occurs
the　body　is　laid　with　its　head　to　the　north　（a　position　that　the
living　Japanese　scrupulously　avoid）；　near　a　folding　screen；　between
which　and　it　a　new　zen　is　placed；　on　which　are　a　saucer　of　oil　with
a　lighted　rush；　cakes　of　uncooked　rice　dough；　and　a　saucer　of
incense　sticks。　　The　priests　directly　after　death　choose　the
kaimiyo；　or　posthumous　name；　write　it　on　a　tablet　of　white　wood；
and　seat　themselves　by　the　corpse；　his　zen；　bowls；　cups；　etc。；　are
filled　with　vegetable　food　and　are　placed　by　his　side；　the
chopsticks　being　put　on　the　wrong；　i。e。　the　left；　side　of　the　zen。
At　the　end　of　forty…eight　hours　the　corpse　is　arranged　for　the
coffin　by　being　washed　with　warm　water；　and　the　priest；　while
saying　certain　prayers；　shaves　the　head。　　In　all　cases；　rich　or
poor；　the　dress　is　of　the　usual　make；　but　of　pure　white　linen　or
cotton。

At　Omagori；　a　town　near　Rokugo；　large　earthenware　jars　are
manufactured；　which　are　much　used　for　interment　by　the　wealthy；　but
in　this　case　there　were　two　square　boxes；　the　outer　one　being　of
finely　planed　wood　of　the　Retinospora　obtusa。　　The　poor　use　what　is
called　the　〃quick…tub；〃　a　covered　tub　of　pine　hooped　with　bamboo。
Women　are　dressed　for　burial　in　the　silk　robe　worn　on　the　marriage
day；　tabi　are　placed　beside　them　or　on　their　feet；　and　their　hair
usually　flows　loosely　behind　them。　　The　wealthiest　people　fill　the
coffin　with　vermilion　and　the　poorest　use　chaff；　but　in　this　case　I
heard　that　only　the　mouth；　nose；　and　ears　were　filled　with
vermilion；　and　that　the　coffin　was　filled　up　with　coarse　incense。
The　body　is　placed　within　the　tub　or　box　in　the　usual　squatting
position。　　It　is　impossible　to　understand　how　a　human　body；　many
hours　after　death；　can　be　pressed　into　the　limited　space　afforded
by　even　the　outermost　of　the　boxes。　　It　has　been　said　that　the
rigidity　of　a　corpse　is　overcome　by　the　use　of　a　powder　called
dosia；　which　is　sold　by　the　priests；　but　this　idea　has　been
exploded；　and　the　process　remains　incomprehensible。

Bannerets　of　small　size　and　ornamental　staves　were　outside　the
house　door。　　Two　men　in　blue　dresses；　with　pale　blue　over…garments
resembling　wings　received　each　person；　two　more　presented　a
lacquered　bowl　of　water　and　a　white　silk　crepe　towel；　and　then　we
passed　into　a　large　room；　round　which　were　arranged　a　number　of
very　handsome　folding　screens；　on　which　lotuses；　storks；　and
peonies　were　realistically　painted　on　a　dead　gold　ground。　　Near　the
end　of　the　room　the　coffin；　under　a　canopy　of　white　silk；　upon
which　there　was　a　very　beautiful　arrangement　of　artificial　white
lotuses；　rested　upon　trestles；　the　face　of　the　corpse　being　turned
towards　the　north。　　Six　priests；　very　magnificently　dressed；　sat　on
each　side　of　the　coffin；　and　two　more　knelt　in　front　of　a　small
temporary　altar。

The　widow；　an　extremely　pretty　woman；　squatted　near　the　deceased；
below　the　father　and　mother；　and　after　her　came　the　children；
relatives；　and　friends；　who　sat　in　rows；　dressed　in　winged　garments
of　blue　and　white。　　The　widow　was　painted　white；　her　lips　were
reddened　with　vermilion；　her　hair　was　elaborately　dressed　and
ornamented　with　carved　shell　pins；　she　wore　a　beautiful　dress　of
sky…blue　silk；　with　a　haori　of　fine　white　crepe　and　a　scarlet　crepe
girdle　embroidered　in　gold；　and　looked　like　a　bride　on　her　marriage
day　rather　than　a　widow。

Indeed；　owing　to　the　beauty　of　the　dresses　and　the　amount　of　blue
and　white　silk；　the　room　had　a　festal　rather　than　a　funereal　look。
When　all　the　guests　had　arrived；　tea　and　sweetmeats　were　passed
round；　incense　was　burned　profusely；　litanies　were　mumbled；　and　the
bustle　of　moving　to　the　grave　began；　during　which　I　secured　a　place
near　the　gate　of　the　temple　grounds。

The　procession　did　not　contain　the　father　or　mother　of　the
deceased；　but　I　understood　that　the　mourners　who　composed　it　were
all　relatives。　　The　oblong　tablet　with　the　〃dead　name〃　of　the
deceased　was　carried　first　by　a　priest；　then　the　lotus　blossom　by
another　priest；　then　ten　priests　followed；　two　and　two；　chanting
litanies　from　books；　then　came　the　coffin　on　a　platform　borne　by
four　men　and　covered　with　white　drapery；　then　the　widow；　and　then
the　other　relatives。　　The　coffin　was　carried　into　the　temple　and
laid　upon　trestles；　while　incense　was　burned　and　prayers　were　said；
and　was　then　carried　to　a　shallow　grave　lined　with　cement；　and
prayers　were　said　by　the　priests　until　the　earth　was　raised　to　the
proper　level；　when　all　dispersed；　and　the　widow；　in　her　gay　attire；
walked　home　unattended。　　There　were　no　hired　mourners　or　any　signs
of　grief；　but　nothing　could　be　more　solemn；　reverent；　and　decorous
than　the　whole　service。　　＇I　have　since　seen　many　funerals；　chiefly
of　the　poor；　and；　though　shorn　of　much　of　the　ceremony；　and　with
only　one　officiating　priest；　the　decorum　was　always　most
remarkable。＇　　The　fees　to　the　priests　are　from　2　up　to　40　or　50
yen。　　The　graveyard；　which　surrounds　the　temple；　was　extremely
beautiful；　and　the　cryptomeria　specially　fine。　　It　was　very　full　of
stone　gravestones；　and；　like　all　Japanese　cemeteries；　exquisitely
kept。　　As　soon　as　the　grave　was　filled　in；　a　life…size　pink　lotus
plant　was　placed　upon　it；　and　a　lacquer　tray；　on　which　were　lacquer
bowls　containing　tea　or　sake；　beans；　and　sweetmeats。

The　temple　at　Rokugo　was　very　beautiful；　and；　except　that　its
ornaments　were　superior　in　solidity　and　good　taste；　differed　little
from　a　Romish　church。　　The　low　altar；　on　which　were　lilies　and
lighted　candles；　was　draped　in　blue　and　silver；　and　on　the　high
altar；　draped　in　crimson　and　cloth　of　gold；　there　was　nothing　but　a
closed　shrine；　an　incense…burner；　and　a　vase　of　lotuses。



LETTER　XX（Concluded）



A　Casual　InvitationA　Ludicrous　IncidentPoliteness　of　a
PolicemanA　Comfortless　SundayAn　Outrageous　IrruptionA
Privileged　Stare。

At　a　wayside　tea…house；　soon　after　leaving　Rokugo　in　kurumas；　I　met
the　same　courteous　and　agreeable　young　doctor　who　was　stationed　at
Innai　during　the　prevalence　o