unbeaten tracks in japan-第57部分

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course　of　less　than　fifteen　miles。

Looking　inland；　the　volcano　of　Tarumai；　with　a　bare　grey　top　and　a
blasted　forest　on　its　sides；　occupies　the　right　of　the　picture。　　To
the　left　and　inland　are　mountains　within　mountains；　tumbled
together　in　most　picturesque　confusion；　densely　covered　with　forest
and　cleft　by　magnificent　ravines；　here　and　there　opening　out　into
narrow　valleys。　　The　whole　of　the　interior　is　jungle　penetrable　for
a　few　miles　by　shallow　and　rapid　rivers；　and　by　nearly　smothered
trails　made　by　the　Ainos　in　search　of　game。　　The　general　lie　of　the
country　made　me　very　anxious　to　find　out　whether　a　much…broken
ridge　lying　among　the　mountains　is　or　is　not　a　series　of　tufa　cones
of　ancient　date；　and；　applying　for　a　good　horse　and　Aino　guide　on
horseback；　I　left　Ito　to　amuse　himself；　and　spent　much　of　a　most
splendid　day　in　investigations　and　in　attempting　to　get　round　the
back　of　the　volcano　and　up　its　inland　side。　　There　is　a　great　deal
to　see　and　learn　there。　　Oh　that　I　had　strength！　　After　hours　of
most　tedious　and　exhausting　work　I　reached　a　point　where　there　were
several　great　fissures　emitting　smoke　and　steam；　with　occasional
subterranean　detonations。　　These　were　on　the　side　of　a　small；　flank
crack　which　was　smoking　heavily。　　There　was　light　pumice
everywhere；　but　nothing　like　recent　lava　or　scoriae。　　One　fissure
was　completely　lined　with　exquisite；　acicular　crystals　of　sulphur；
which　perished　with　a　touch。　　Lower　down　there　were　two　hot　springs
with　a　deposit　of　sulphur　round　their　margins；　and　bubbles　of　gas；
which；　from　its　strong；　garlicky　smell；　I　suppose　to　be
sulphuretted　hydrogen。　　Farther　progress　in　that　direction　was
impossible　without　a　force　of　pioneers。　　I　put　my　arm　down　several
deep　crevices　which　were　at　an　altitude　of　only　about　500　feet；　and
had　to　withdraw　it　at　once；　owing　to　the　great　heat；　in　which　some
beautiful　specimens　of　tropical　ferns　were　growing。　　At　the　same
height　I　came　to　a　hot　springhot　enough　to　burst　one　of　my
thermometers；　which　was　graduated　above　the　boiling　point　of
Fahrenheit；　and　tying　up　an　egg　in　a　pocket…handkerchief　and
holding　it　by　a　stick　in　the　water；　it　was　hard　boiled　in　8。5
minutes。　　The　water　evaporated　without　leaving　a　trace　of　deposit
on　the　handkerchief；　and　there　was　no　crust　round　its　margin。　　It
boiled　and　bubbled　with　great　force。

Three　hours　more　of　exhausting　toil；　which　almost　knocked　up　the
horses；　brought　us　to　the　apparent　ridge；　and　I　was　delighted　to
find　that　it　consisted　of　a　lateral　range　of　tufa　cones；　which　I
estimate　as　being　from　200　to　350；　or　even　400　feet　high。　　They　are
densely　covered　with　trees　of　considerable　age；　and　a　rich　deposit
of　mould；　but　their　conical　form　is　still　admirably　defined。　　An
hour　of　very　severe　work；　and　energetic　use　of　the　knife　on　the
part　of　the　Aino；　took　me　to　the　top　of　one　of　these　through　a　mass
of　entangled　and　gigantic　vegetation；　and　I　was　amply　repaid　by
finding　a　deep；　well…defined　crateriform　cavity　of　great　depth；
with　its　sides　richly　clothed　with　vegetation；　closely　resembling
some　of　the　old　cones　in　the　island　of　Kauai。　　This　cone　is
partially　girdled　by　a　stream；　which　in　one　place　has　cut　through　a
bank　of　both　red　and　black　volcanic　ash。　　All　the　usual　phenomena
of　volcanic　regions　are　probably　to　be　met　with　north　of　Shiraoi；
and　I　hope　they　will　at　some　future　time　be　made　the　object　of
careful　investigation。

In　spite　of　the　desperate　and　almost　overwhelming　fatigue；　I　have
enjoyed　few　things　more　than　that　〃exploring　expedition。〃　　If　the
Japanese　have　no　one　to　talk　to　they　croon　hideous　discords　to
themselves；　and　it　was　a　relief　to　leave　Ito　behind　and　get　away
with　an　Aino；　who　was　at　once　silent；　trustworthy；　and　faithful。
Two　bright　rivers　bubbling　over　beds　of　red　pebbles　run　down　to
Shiraoi　out　of　the　back　country；　and　my　directions；　which　were
translated　to　the　Aino；　were　to　follow　up　one　of　these　and　go　into
the　mountains　in　the　direction　of　one　I　pointed　out　till　I　said
〃Shiraoi。〃　　It　was　one　of　those　exquisite　mornings　which　are　seen
sometimes　in　the　Scotch　Highlands　before　rain；　with　intense
clearness　and　visibility；　a　blue　atmosphere；　a　cloudless　sky；　blue
summits；　heavy　dew；　and　glorious　sunshine；　and　under　these
circumstances　scenery　beautiful　in　itself　became　entrancing。

The　trailers　are　so　formidable　that　we　had　to　stoop　over　our
horses'　necks　at　all　times；　and　with　pushing　back　branches　and
guarding　my　face　from　slaps　and　scratches；　my　thick　dogskin　gloves
were　literally　frayed　off；　and　some　of　the　skin　of　my　hands　and
face　in　addition；　so　that　I　returned　with　both　bleeding　and
swelled。　　It　was　on　the　return　ride；　fortunately；　that　in　stooping
to　escape　one　great　liana　the　loop　of　another　grazed　my　nose；　and；
being　unable　to　check　my　unbroken　horse　instantaneously；　the　loop
caught　me　by　the　throat；　nearly　strangled　me；　and　in　less　time　than
it　takes　to　tell　it　I　was　drawn　over　the　back　of　the　saddle；　and
found　myself　lying　on　the　ground；　jammed　between　a　tree　and　the
hind　leg　of　the　horse；　which　was　quietly　feeding。　　The　Aino；　whose
face　was　very　badly　scratched；　missing　me；　came　back；　said　never　a
word；　helped　me　up；　brought　me　some　water　in　a　leaf；　brought　my
hat；　and　we　rode　on　again。　　I　was　little　the　worse　for　the　fall；
but　on　borrowing　a　looking…glass　I　see　not　only　scratches　and
abrasions　all　over　my　face；　but　a　livid　mark　round　my　throat　as　if
I　had　been　hung！　　The　Aino　left　portions　of　his　bushy　locks　on　many
of　the　branches。　　You　would　have　been　amused　to　see　me　in　this
forest；　preceded　by　this　hairy　and　formidable…looking　savage；　who
was　dressed　in　a　coat　of　skins　with　the　fur　outside；　seated　on　the
top　of　a　pack…saddle　covered　with　a　deer　hide；　and　with　his　hairy
legs　crossed　over　the　horse's　necka　fashion　in　which　the　Ainos
ride　any　horses　over　any　ground　with　the　utmost　serenity。

It　was　a　wonderful　region　for　beauty。　　I　have　not　seen　so　beautiful
a　view　in　Japan　as　from　the　river…bed　from　which　I　had　the　first
near　view　of　the　grand　assemblage　of　tufa　cones；　covered　with　an
ancient　vegetation；　backed　by　high　mountains　of　volcanic　origin；　on
whose　ragged　crests　the　red　ash　was　blazing　vermilion　against　the
blue　sky；　with　a　foreground　of　bright　waters　flashing　through　a
primeval　forest。　　The　banks　of　these　streams　were　deeply　excavated
by　the　heavy　rains；　and　sometimes　we　had　to　jump　three　and　even
four　feet　out　of　the　forest　into　the　river；　and　as　much　up　again；
fording　the　Shiraoi　river　only　more　than　twenty　times；　and　often
making　a　pathway　of　its　treacherous　bed　and　rushing　waters；　because
the　forest　was　impassable　from　the　great　size　of　the　prostrate
trees。　　The　horses　look　at　these　jumps；　hold　back；　try　to　turn；　and
then；　making　up　their　minds；　suddenly　plunge　down　or　up。　　When　the
last　vestige　of　a　trail　disappeared；　I　signed　to　the　Aino　to　go　on；
and　our　subsequent　〃exploration〃　was　all　done　at　the　rate　of　about
a　mile　an　hour。　　On　the　openings　the　grass　grows　stiff　and　strong
to　the　height　of　eight　feet；　with　its　soft　reddish　plumes　waving　in
the　breeze。　　The　Aino　first　forced　his　horse　through　it；　but　of
course　it　closed　again；　so　that　constantly　when　he　was　close　in
front　I　was　only　aware　of　his　proximity　by　the　tinkling　of　his
horse's　bells；　for　I　saw　nothing　of　him　or　of　my　own　horse　except
the　horn　of　my　saddle。　　We　tumbled　into　holes　often；　and　as　easily
tumbled　out　of　them；　but　once　we　both　went　down　in　the　most
unexpected　manner　into　what　must　have　been　an　old　bear…trap；　both
going　over　our　horses'　heads；　the　horses　and　ourselves　struggling
together　in　a　narrow　space　in　a　mist　of　grassy　plumes；　and；　being
unable　to　communicate　with　my　guide；　the　sense　of　the　ridiculous
situation　was　so　overpowering　that；　even　in　the　midst　of　the
mishap；　I　was　exhausted　with　laughter；　though　not　a　little　bruised。
It　was　very　hard　to　get　out　of　that　pitfall；　and　I　hope　I　shall
never　get　into　one　again。　　It　is　not　the　first　occasion　on　which　I
have　been　glad　that　the　Yezo　horses　are　shoeless。　　It　was　through
this　long　grass　that　we　fought　our　way　to　the　tufa　cones；　with　the
red　ragged　crests　against　the　blue　sky。

The　scenery　was　magnificent；　and　after　getting　so　far　I　longed　to
explore　the　sources　of　the　rivers；　but　besides　the　many
difficulties　the　day　was　far　spent。　　I　was　also　too　weak　for　any
energetic　undertaking；　yet　I　felt　an　intuitive　perception　of　the
passion　and　fascination　of　exploring；　and　understood　how　people
could　give　up　their　lives　to　it。　　I　turned　away　from　the　tufa　cones
and　the　glory　of　the　ragged　crests　very　sadly；　to　ride　a　tired
horse　through　great　difficulties；　and　the　animal　was　so　thoroughly
done　up　that　I　had　to　walk；　or　rather　wade；　for　the　last　hour；　and
it　was　nightfall　when　I　returned；　to　find　that　Ito　had　packed　up
all　my　things；　had　been　waiting　ever　since　noon　to　start　for
Horobets；　was　very　grumpy　at　having　to　unpack；　and　thoroughly
disgusted　when　I　told　him　that　I　was　so　tired　and　bruised　that　I
should　have　to　remain　the　next　day　to　rest。　　He　said　indignantly；
〃I　never　thought　that　when　you'd　got　the　Kaitakushi　kuruma　you'd　go
off　the　road　into　those　woods！〃　　We　had　seen　some　deer　and　many
pheasants；　and　a　successful　hunter　brought　in　a　fine　stag；　so　that
I　had　venison　steak　for　supper；　and　was　much　comforted；　though　Ito
seasoned　the　meal　with　well…got…up　stories　of　the　impracticability
of　the　Volcano　Bay　route。

Shiraoi　consists　of　a　large　old　Honjin；　or　yadoya；　where　the
daimiyo　and　his　train　used　to　lodge　in　the　old　days；　and　about
eleven　Japanese　houses；　most　of　which　are　sake　shopsa　fact　which
supplies　an　explanation　of　the　squalor　of　the　Aino　village　of
fifty…two　houses；　which　is　on　the　shore　at　a　respectful　distance。
There　is　no　cultivation；　in　which　it　is　like　all　the　fishing
villages　on　this　part　of　the　coast；　but　fish…oil　and　fish…manure
are　made　in　immense　quantities；　and；　though　it　is　not　the　season
here；　the　place　is　pervaded　by　〃an　ancient　and　fish…like　smell。〃

The　Aino　houses　are　much　smaller；　poorer；　and　dirtier　than　those　of
Biratori。　　I　went　into　a　number　of　them；　and　conversed　with　the
people；　many　of　whom　understand　Japanese。　　Some　of　the　houses