unbeaten tracks in japan-第58部分

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people；　many　of　whom　understand　Japanese。　　Some　of　the　houses
looked　like　dens；　and；　as　it　was　raining；　husband；　wife；　and　five
or　six　naked　children；　all　as　dirty　as　they　could　be；　with　unkempt；
elf…like　locks；　were　huddled　round　the　fires。　　Still；　bad　as　it
looked　and　smelt；　the　fire　was　the　hearth；　and　the　hearth　was
inviolate；　and　each　smoked　and　dirt…stained　group　was　a　family；　and
it　was　an　advance　upon　the　social　life　of；　for　instance；　Salt　Lake
City。　　The　roofs　are　much　flatter　than　those　of　the　mountain　Ainos；
and；　as　there　are　few　store…houses；　quantities　of　fish；　〃green〃
skins；　and　venison；　hang　from　the　rafters；　and　the　smell　of　these
and　the　stinging　of　the　smoke　were　most　trying。　　Few　of　the　houses
had　any　guest…seats；　but　in　the　very　poorest；　when　I　asked　shelter
from　the　rain；　they　put　their　best　mat　upon　the　ground；　and
insisted；　much　to　my　distress；　on　my　walking　over　it　in　muddy
boots；　saying；　〃It　is　Aino　custom。〃　　Ever；　in　those　squalid　homes
the　broad　shelf；　with　its　rows　of　Japanese　curios；　always　has　a
place。　　I　mentioned　that　it　is　customary　for　a　chief　to　appoint　a
successor　when　he　becomes　infirm；　and　I　came　upon　a　case　in　point；
through　a　mistaken　direction；　which　took　us　to　the　house　of　the
former　chief；　with　a　great　empty　bear　cage　at　its　door。　　On
addressing　him　as　the　chief；　he　said；　〃I　am　old　and　blind；　I　cannot
go　out；　I　am　of　no　more　good；〃　and　directed　us　to　the　house　of　his
successor。　　Altogether　it　is　obvious；　from　many　evidences　in　this
village；　that　Japanese　contiguity　is　hurtful；　and　that　the　Ainos
have　reaped　abundantly　of　the　disadvantages　without　the　advantages
of　contact　with　Japanese　civilisation。

That　night　I　saw　a　specimen　of　Japanese　horse…breaking　as　practised
in　Yezo。　　A　Japanese　brought　into　the　village　street　a　handsome；
spirited　young　horse；　equipped　with　a　Japanese　demi…pique　saddle；
and　a　most　cruel　gag　bit。　　The　man　wore　very　cruel　spurs；　and　was
armed　with　a　bit　of　stout　board　two　feet　long　by　six　inches　broad。
The　horse　had　not　been　mounted　before；　and　was　frightened；　but　not
the　least　vicious。　　He　was　spurred　into　a　gallop；　and　ridden　at
full　speed　up　and　down　the　street；　turned　by　main　force；　thrown　on
his　haunches；　goaded　with　the　spurs；　and　cowed　by　being　mercilessly
thrashed　over　the　ears　and　eyes　with　the　piece　of　board　till　he　was
blinded　with　blood。　　Whenever　he　tried　to　stop　from　exhaustion　he
was　spurred；　jerked；　and　flogged；　till　at　last；　covered　with　sweat；
foam；　and　blood；　and　with　blood　running　from　his　mouth　and
splashing　the　road；　he　reeled；　staggered；　and　fell；　the　rider
dexterously　disengaging　himself。　　As　soon　as　he　was　able　to　stand；
he　was　allowed　to　crawl　into　a　shed；　where　he　was　kept　without　food
till　morning；　when　a　child　could　do　anything　with　him。　　He　was
〃broken；〃　effectually　spirit…broken；　useless　for　the　rest　of　his
life。　　It　was　a　brutal　and　brutalising　exhibition；　as　triumphs　of
brute　force　always　are。



LETTER　XXXIX（Continued）



The　Universal　LanguageThe　Yezo　CorralsA　〃Typhoon　Rain〃
Difficult　TracksAn　Unenviable　RideDrying　ClothesA　Woman's
Remorse。

This　morning　I　left　early　in　the　kuruma　with　two　kind　and
delightful　savages。　　The　road　being　much　broken　by　the　rains　I　had
to　get　out　frequently；　and　every　time　I　got　in　again　they　put　my
air…pillow　behind　me；　and　covered　me　up　in　a　blanket；　and　when　we
got　to　a　rough　river；　one　made　a　step　of　his　back　by　which　I
mounted　their　horse；　and　gave　me　nooses　of　rope　to　hold　on　by；　and
the　other　held　my　arm　to　keep　me　steady；　and　they　would　not　let　me
walk　up　or　down　any　of　the　hills。　　What　a　blessing　it　is　that；
amidst　the　confusion　of　tongues；　the　language　of　kindness　and
courtesy　is　universally　understood；　and　that　a　kindly　smile　on　a
savage　face　is　as　intelligible　as　on　that　of　one's　own　countryman！
They　had　never　drawn　a　kuruma；　and　were　as　pleased　as　children　when
I　showed　them　how　to　balance　the　shafts。　　They　were　not　without　the
capacity　to　originate　ideas；　for；　when　they　were　tired　of　the
frolic　of　pulling；　they　attached　the　kuruma　by　ropes　to　the　horse；
which　one　of　them　rode　at　a　〃scramble；〃　while　the　other　merely　ran
in　the　shafts　to　keep　them　level。　　This　is　an　excellent　plan。

Horobets　is　a　fishing　station　of　antique　and　decayed　aspect；　with
eighteen　Japanese　and　forty…seven　Aino　houses。　　The　latter　are　much
larger　than　at　Shiraoi；　and　their　very　steep　roofs　are　beautifully
constructed。　　It　was　a　miserable　day；　with　fog　concealing　the
mountains　and　lying　heavily　on　the　sea；　but　as　no　one　expected　rain
I　sent　the　kuruma　back　to　Mororan　and　secured　horses。　　On　principle
I　always　go　to　the　corral　myself　to　choose　animals；　if　possible；
without　sore　backs；　but　the　choice　is　often　between　one　with　a　mere
raw　and　others　which　have　holes　in　their　backs　into　which　I　could
put　my　hand；　or　altogether　uncovered　spines。　　The　practice　does　no
immediate　good；　but　by　showing　the　Japanese　that　foreign　opinion
condemns　these　cruelties　an　amendment　may　eventually　be　brought
about。　　At　Horobets；　among　twenty　horses；　there　was　not　one　that　I
would　take；I　should　like　to　have　had　them　all　shot。　　They　are
cheap　and　abundant；　and　are　of　no　account。　　They　drove　a　number
more　down　from　the　hills；　and　I　chose　the　largest　and　finest　horse
I　have　seen　in　Japan；　with　some　spirit　and　action；　but　I　soon　found
that　he　had　tender　feet。　　We　shortly　left　the　high…road；　and　in
torrents　of　rain　turned　off　on　〃unbeaten　tracks；〃　which　led　us
through　a　very　bad　swamp　and　some　much　swollen　and　very　rough
rivers　into　the　mountains；　where　we　followed　a　worn…out　track　for
eight　miles。　　It　was　literally　〃FOUL　weather；〃　dark　and　still；　with
a　brown　mist；　and　rain　falling　in　sheets。　　I　threw　my　paper
waterproof　away　as　useless；　my　clothes　were　of　course　soaked；　and
it　was　with　much　difficulty　that　I　kept　my　shomon　and　paper　money
from　being　reduced　to　pulp。　　Typhoons　are　not　known　so　far　north　as
Yezo；　but　it　was　what　they　call　a　〃typhoon　rain〃　without　the
typhoon；　and　in　no　time　it　turned　the　streams　into　torrents　barely
fordable；　and　tore　up　such　of　a　road　as　there　is；　which　at　its　best
is　a　mere　water…channel。　　Torrents；　bringing　tolerable…sized
stones；　tore　down　the　track；　and　when　the　horses　had　been　struck
two　or　three　times　by　these；　it　was　with　difficulty　that　they　could
be　induced　to　face　the　rushing　water。　　Constantly　in　a　pass；　the
water　had　gradually　cut　a　track　several　feet　deep　between　steep
banks；　and　the　only　possible　walking　place　was　a　stony　gash　not
wide　enough　for　the　two　feet　of　a　horse　alongside　of　each　other；
down　which　water　and　stones　were　rushing　from　behind；　with　all
manner　of　trailers　matted　overhead；　and　between　avoiding　being
strangled　and　attempting　to　keep　a　tender…footed　horse　on　his　legs；
the　ride　was　a　very　severe　one。　　The　poor　animal　fell　five　times
from　stepping　on　stones；　and　in　one　of　his　falls　twisted　my　left
wrist　badly。　　I　thought　of　the　many　people　who　envied　me　my　tour　in
Japan；　and　wondered　whether　they　would　envy　me　that　ride！

After　this　had　gone　on　for　four　hours；　the　track；　with　a　sudden　dip
over　a　hillside；　came　down　on　Old　Mororan；　a　village　of　thirty　Aino
and　nine　Japanese　houses；　very　unpromising…looking；　although
exquisitely　situated　on　the　rim　of　a　lovely　cove。　　The　Aino　huts
were　small　and　poor；　with　an　unusual　number　of　bear　skulls　on
poles；　and　the　village　consisted　mainly　of　two　long　dilapidated
buildings；　in　which　a　number　of　men　were　mending　nets。　　It　looked　a
decaying　place；　of　low；　mean　lives。　　But　at　a　〃merchant's〃　there
was　one　delightful　room　with　two　translucent　sidesone　opening　on
the　village；　the　other　looking　to　the　sea　down　a　short；　steep
slope；　on　which　is　a　quaint　little　garden；　with　dwarfed　fir…trees
in　pots；　a　few　balsams；　and　a　red　cabbage　grown　with　much　pride　as
a　〃foliage　plant。〃

It　is　nearly　midnight；　but　my　bed　and　bedding　are　so　wet　that　I　am
still　sitting　up　and　drying　them；　patch　by　patch；　with　tedious
slowness；　on　a　wooden　frame　placed　over　a　charcoal　brazier；　which
has　given　my　room　the　dryness　and　warmth　which　are　needed　when　a
person　has　been　for　many　hours　in　soaked　clothing；　and　has　nothing
really　dry　to　put　on。　　Ito　bought　a　chicken　for　my　supper；　but　when
he　was　going　to　kill　it　an　hour　later　its　owner　in　much　grief
returned　the　money；　saying　she　had　brought　it　up　and　could　not　bear
to　see　it　killed。　　This　is　a　wild；　outlandish　place；　but　an
intuition　tells　me　that　it　is　beautiful。　　The　ocean　at　present　is
thundering　up　the　beach　with　the　sullen　force　of　a　heavy　ground…
swell；　and　the　rain　is　still　falling　in　torrents。

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　XL



〃More　than　Peace〃Geographical　DifficultiesUsu…takiSwimming
the　OsharuA　Dream　of　BeautyA　Sunset　EffectA　Nocturnal　Alarm
The　Coast　Ainos。

LEBUNGE；　VOLCANO　BAY；　YEZO；
September　6。

〃Weary　wave　and　dying　blast
Sob　and　moan　along　the　shore；
All　is　peace　at　last。〃

And　more　than　peace。　　It　was　a　heavenly　morning。　　The　deep　blue　sky
was　perfectly　unclouded；　a　blue　sea　with　diamond　flash　and　a　〃many…
twinkling　smile〃　rippled　gently　on　the　golden　sands　of　the　lovely
little　bay；　and　opposite；　forty　miles　away；　the　pink　summit　of　the
volcano　of　Komono…taki；　forming　the　south…western　point　of　Volcano
Bay；　rose　into　a　softening　veil　of　tender　blue　haze。　　There　was　a
balmy　breeziness　in　the　air；　and　tawny　tints　upon　the　hill；　patches
of　gold　in　the　woods；　and　a　scarlet　spray　here　and　there　heralded
the　glories　of　the　advancing　autumn。　　As　the　day　began；　so　it
closed。　　I　should　like　to　have　detained　each　hour　as　it　passed。　　It
was　thorough　enjoyment。　　I　visited　a　good　many　of　the　Mororan
Ainos；　saw　their　well…grown　bear　in　its　cage；　and；　tearing　myself
away　with　difficulty　at　noon；　crossed　a　steep　hill　and　a　wood　of
scrub　oak；　and　then　followed　a　trail　which　runs　on　the　amber　sands
close　to　the　sea；　crosses　several　small　streams；　and　passes　the
lonely　Aino　village　of　Maripu；　the　ocean　always　on　the　left　and
wooded　ranges　on　the　right；　and　in　front　an　apparent　bar　to　farther
progress　in　the　volcano　of　Usu…taki；　an　imposing　mountain；　rising
abruptly　to　a　height　of　nearly　3000　feet；　I　should　think。

In　Yezo；　as　on　the　main　island；　one　can　learn　v