unbeaten tracks in japan-第7部分

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childish　sport。

All　over　the　grounds　booths　with　the　usual　charcoal　fire；　copper
boiler；　iron　kettle　of　curious　workmanship；　tiny　cups；　fragrant
aroma　of　tea；　and　winsome；　graceful　girls；　invite　you　to　drink　and
rest；　and　more　solid　but　less　inviting　refreshments　are　also　to　be
had。　　Rows　of　pretty　paper　lanterns　decorate　all　the　stalls。　　Then
there　are　photograph　galleries；　mimic　tea…gardens；　tableaux　in
which　a　large　number　of　groups　of　life…size　figures　with
appropriate　scenery　are　put　into　motion　by　a　creaking　wheel　of
great　size；　matted　lounges　for　rest；　stands　with　saucers　of　rice；
beans　and　peas　for　offerings　to　the　gods；　the　pigeons；　and　the　two
sacred　horses；　Albino　ponies；　with　pink　eyes　and　noses；　revoltingly
greedy　creatures；　eating　all　day　long　and　still　craving　for　more。
There　are　booths　for　singing　and　dancing；　and　under　one　a
professional　story…teller　was　reciting　to　a　densely　packed　crowd
one　of　the　old；　popular　stories　of　crime。　　There　are　booths　where
for　a　few　rin　you　may　have　the　pleasure　of　feeding　some　very　ugly
and　greedy　apes；　or　of　watching　mangy　monkeys　which　have　been
taught　to　prostrate　themselves　Japanese　fashion。

This　letter　is　far　too　long；　but　to　pass　over　Asakusa　and　its
novelties　when　the　impression　of　them　is　fresh　would　be　to　omit　one
of　the　most　interesting　sights　in　Japan。　　On　the　way　back　we　passed
red　mail　carts　like　those　in　London；　a　squadron　of　cavalry　in
European　uniforms　and　with　European　saddles；　and　the　carriage　of
the　Minister　of　Marine；　an　English　brougham　with　a　pair　of　horses
in　English　harness；　and　an　escort　of　six　troopersa　painful
precaution　adopted　since　the　political　assassination　of　Okubo；　the
Home　Minister；　three　weeks　ago。　　So　the　old　and　the　new　in　this
great　city　contrast　with　and　jostle　each　other。　　The　Mikado　and　his
ministers；　naval　and　military　officers　and　men；　the　whole　of　the
civil　officials　and　the　police；　wear　European　clothes；　as　well　as　a
number　of　dissipated…looking　young　men　who　aspire　to　represent
〃young　Japan。〃　　Carriages　and　houses　in　English　style；　with
carpets；　chairs；　and　tables；　are　becoming　increasingly　numerous；
and　the　bad　taste　which　regulates　the　purchase　of　foreign
furnishings　is　as　marked　as　the　good　taste　which　everywhere
presides　over　the　adornment　of　the　houses　in　purely　Japanese　style。
Happily　these　expensive　and　unbecoming　innovations　have　scarcely
affected　female　dress；　and　some　ladies　who　adopted　our　fashions
have　given　them　up　because　of　their　discomfort　and　manifold
difficulties　and　complications。

The　Empress　on　State　occasions　appears　in　scarlet　satin　hakama；　and
flowing　robes；　and　she　and　the　Court　ladies　invariably　wear　the
national　costume。　　I　have　only　seen　two　ladies　in　European　dress；
and　this　was　at　a　dinner…party　here；　and　they　were　the　wives　of　Mr。
Mori；　the　go…ahead　Vice…Minister　for　Foreign　Affairs；　and　of　the
Japanese　Consul　at　Hong　Kong；　and　both　by　long　residence　abroad
have　learned　to　wear　it　with　ease。　　The　wife　of　Saigo；　the　Minister
of　Education；　called　one　day　in　an　exquisite　Japanese　dress　of
dove…coloured　silk　crepe；　with　a　pale　pink　under…dress　of　the　same
material；　which　showed　a　little　at　the　neck　and　sleeves。　　Her
girdle　was　of　rich　dove…coloured　silk；　with　a　ghost　of　a　pale　pink
blossom　hovering　upon　it　here　and　there。　　She　had　no　frills　or
fripperies　of　any　description；　or　ornaments；　except　a　single　pin　in
her　chignon；　and；　with　a　sweet　and　charming　face；　she　looked　as
graceful　and　dignified　in　her　Japanese　costume　as　she　would　have
looked　exactly　the　reverse　in　ours。　　Their　costume　has　one　striking
advantage　over　ours。　　A　woman　is　perfectly　CLOTHED　if　she　has　one
garment　and　a　girdle　on；　and　perfectly　DRESSED　if　she　has　two。
There　is　a　difference　in　features　and　expressionmuch　exaggerated；
however；　by　Japanese　artistsbetween　the　faces　of　high…born　women
and　those　of　the　middle　and　lower　classes。　　I　decline　to　admire
fat…faces；　pug　noses；　thick　lips；　long　eyes；　turned　up　at　the　outer
corners；　and　complexions　which　owe　much　to　powder　and　paint。　　The
habit　of　painting　the　lips　with　a　reddish…yellow　pigment；　and　of
heavily　powdering　the　face　and　throat　with　pearl　powder；　is　a
repulsive　one。　　But　it　is　hard　to　pronounce　any　unfavourable
criticism　on　women　who　have　so　much　kindly　grace　of　manner。　　I。　L。
B。



LETTER　VI



FearsTravelling　EquipmentsPassportsCoolie　CostumeA　Yedo
DioramaRice…FieldsTea…HousesA　Traveller's　ReceptionThe　Inn
at　KasukabeLack　of　PrivacyA　Concourse　of　NoisesA　Nocturnal
AlarmA　Vision　of　PolicemenA　Budget　from　Yedo。

KASUKABE；　June　10。

From　the　date　you　will　see　that　I　have　started　on　my　long　journey；
though　not　upon　the　〃unbeaten　tracks〃　which　I　hope　to　take　after
leaving　Nikko；　and　my　first　evening　alone　in　the　midst　of　this
crowded　Asian　life　is　strange；　almost　fearful。　　I　have　suffered
from　nervousness　all　daythe　fear　of　being　frightened；　of　being
rudely　mobbed；　as　threatened　by　Mr。　Campbell　of　Islay；　of　giving
offence　by　transgressing　the　rules　of　Japanese　politenessof；　I
know　not　what！　　Ito　is　my　sole　reliance；　and　he　may　prove　a　〃broken
reed。〃　　I　often　wished　to　give　up　my　project；　but　was　ashamed　of　my
cowardice　when；　on　the　best　authority；　I　received　assurances　of　its
safety。　｛6｝

The　preparations　were　finished　yesterday；　and　my　outfit　weighed　110
lbs。；　which；　with　Ito's　weight　of　90　lbs。；　is　as　much　as　can　be
carried　by　an　average　Japanese　horse。　　My　two　painted　wicker　boxes
lined　with　paper　and　with　waterproof　covers　are　convenient　for　the
two　sides　of　a　pack…horse。　　I　have　a　folding…chairfor　in　a
Japanese　house　there　is　nothing　but　the　floor　to　sit　upon；　and　not
even　a　solid　wall　to　lean　againstan　air…pillow　for　kuruma
travelling；　an　india…rubber　bath；　sheets；　a　blanket；　and　last；　and
more　important　than　all　else；　a　canvas　stretcher　on　light　poles；
which　can　be　put　together　in　two　minutes；　and　being　2。5　feet　high
is　supposed　to　be　secure　from　fleas。　　The　〃Food　Question〃　has　been
solved　by　a　modified　rejection　of　all　advice！　　I　have　only　brought
a　small　supply　of　Liebig's　extract　of　meat；　4　lbs。　of　raisins；　some
chocolate；　both　for　eating　and　drinking；　and　some　brandy　in　case　of
need。　　I　have　my　own　Mexican　saddle　and　bridle；　a　reasonable
quantity　of　clothes；　including　a　loose　wrapper　for　wearing　in　the
evenings；　some　candles；　Mr。　Brunton's　large　map　of　Japan；　volumes
of　the　Transactions　of　the　English　Asiatic　Society；　and　Mr。　Satow's
Anglo…Japanese　Dictionary。　　My　travelling　dress　is　a　short　costume
of　dust…coloured　striped　tweed；　with　strong　laced　boots　of
unblacked　leather；　and　a　Japanese　hat；　shaped　like　a　large　inverted
bowl；　of　light　bamboo　plait；　with　a　white　cotton　cover；　and　a　very
light　frame　inside；　which　fits　round　the　brow　and　leaves　a　space　of
1。5　inches　between　the　hat　and　the　head　for　the　free　circulation　of
air。　　It　only　weighs　2。5　ounces；　and　is　infinitely　to　be　preferred
to　a　heavy　pith　helmet；　and；　light　as　it　is；　it　protects　the　head
so　thoroughly；　that；　though　the　sun　has　been　unclouded　all　day　and
the　mercury　at　86　degrees；　no　other　protection　has　been　necessary。
My　money　is　in　bundles　of　50　yen；　and　50；　20；　and　10　sen　notes；
besides　which　I　have　some　rouleaux　of　copper　coins。　　I　have　a　bag
for　my　passport；　which　hangs　to　my　waist。　　All　my　luggage；　with　the
exception　of　my　saddle；　which　I　use　for　a　footstool；　goes　into　one
kuruma；　and　Ito；　who　is　limited　to　12　lbs。；　takes　his　along　with
him。

I　have　three　kurumas；　which　are　to　go　to　Nikko；　ninety　miles；　in
three　days；　without　change　of　runners；　for　about　eleven　shillings
each。

Passports　usually　define　the　route　over　which　the　foreigner　is　to
travel；　but　in　this　case　Sir　H。　Parkes　has　obtained　one　which　is
practically　unrestricted；　for　it　permits　me　to　travel　through　all
Japan　north　of　Tokiyo　and　in　Yezo　without　specifying　any　route。
This　precious　document；　without　which　I　should　be　liable　to　be
arrested　and　forwarded　to　my　consul；　is　of　course　in　Japanese；　but
the　cover　gives　in　English　the　regulations　under　which　it　is
issued。　　A　passport　must　be　applied　for；　for　reasons　of　〃health；
botanical　research；　or　scientific　investigation。〃　　Its　bearer　must
not　light　fires　in　woods；　attend　fires　on　horseback；　trespass　on
fields；　enclosures；　or　game…preserves；　scribble　on　temples；
shrines；　or　walls；　drive　fast　on　a　narrow　road；　or　disregard
notices　of　〃No　thoroughfare。〃　　He　must　〃conduct　himself　in　an
orderly　and　conciliating　manner　towards　the　Japanese　authorities
and　people；〃　he　〃must　produce　his　passport　to　any　officials　who　may
demand　it；〃　under　pain　of　arrest；　and　while　in　the　interior　〃is
forbidden　to　shoot；　trade；　to　conclude　mercantile　contracts　with
Japanese；　or　to　rent　houses　or　rooms　for　a　longer　period　than　his
journey　requires。〃

NIKKO；　June　13。This　is　one　of　the　paradises　of　Japan！　　It　is　a
proverbial　saying；　〃He　who　has　not　seen　Nikko　must　not　use　the　word
kek'ko〃　（splendid；　delicious；　beautiful）；　but　of　this　more
hereafter。　　My　attempt　to　write　to　you　from　Kasukabe　failed；　owing
to　the　onslaught　of　an　army　of　fleas；　which　compelled　me　to　retreat
to　my　stretcher；　and　the　last　two　nights；　for　this　and　other
reasons；　writing　has　been　out　of　the　question。

I　left　the　Legation　at　11　am。　on　Monday　and　reached　Kasukabe　at　5
p。m。；　the　runners　keeping　up　an　easy　trot　the　whole　journey　of
twenty…three　miles；　but　the　halts　for　smoking　and　eating　were
frequent。

These　kuruma…runners　wore　short　blue　cotton　drawers；　girdles　with
tobacco　pouch　and　pipe　attached；　short　blue　cotton　shirts　with　wide
sleeves；　and　open　in　front；　reaching　to　their　waists；　and　blue
cotton　handkerchiefs　knotted　round　their　heads；　except　when　the　sun
was　very　hot；　when　they　took　the　flat　flag　discs；　two　feet　in
diameter；　which　always　hang　behind　kurumas；　and　are　used　either　in
sun　or　rain；　and　tied　them　on　their　heads。　　They　wore　straw
sandals；　which　had　to　be　replaced　twice　on　the　way。　　Blue　and　white
towels　hung　from　the　shafts　to　wipe　away　the　sweat；　which　ran
profusely　down　the　lean；　brown　bodies。　　The　upper　garment　always
flew　behind　them；　displaying　chests　and　backs　elaborately　tattooed
with　dragons　and　fishes。　　Tattooing　has　recently　been　prohibited；
but　it　was