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exclusive and difficult of access; does at first seem incredible。



That humble young painters or singers should long to know 

personally the great lights of their professions; and should strive 

to be accepted among them is easily understood; since the aspirants 

can reap but benefit; present and future; from such companionship。  

That a rising politician should deem it all…important to be on 

friendly terms with the 〃bosses〃 is not astonishing; for those 

magnates have it in their power to make or mar his fortune。  But in 

a MILIEU as fluctuating as any social circle must necessarily be; 

shading off on all sides and changing as constantly as light on 

water; the end can never be considered as achieved or the goal 

attained。



Neither does any particular result accompany success; more 

substantial than the moral one which lies in self…congratulation。  

That; however; is enough for a climber if she is bitten with the 

〃ascending〃 madness。  (I say 〃she;〃 because this form of ambition 

is more frequent among women; although by no means unknown to the 

sterner sex。)



It amuses me vastly to sit in my corner and watch one of these FIN…

DE…SIECLE diplomatists work out her little problem。  She generally 

comes plunging into our city from outside; hot for conquest; making 

acquaintances right and left; indiscriminately; thus falling an 

easy prey to the wolves that prowl around the edges of society; 

waiting for just such lambs to devour。  Her first entertainments 

are worth attending for she has ingeniously contrived to get 

together all the people she should have left out; and failed to 

attract the social lights and powers of the moment。  If she be a 

quick…witted lady; she soon sees the error of her ways and begins a 

process of 〃weeding〃 … as difficult as it is unwise; each rejected 

〃weed〃 instantly becoming an enemy for life; not to speak of the 

risk she; in her ignorance; runs of mistaking for 〃detrimentals〃 

the FINES FLEURS of the worldly parterre。  Ah! the way of the 

Climber is hard; she now begins to see that her path is not strewn 

with flowers。



One tactful person of this kind; whose gradual 〃unfolding〃 was 

watched with much amusement and wonder by her acquaintances; 

avoided all these errors by going in early for a 〃dear friend。〃  

Having; after mature reflection; chosen her guide among the most 

exclusive of the young matrons; she proceeded quietly to pay her 

court EN REGLE。  Flattering little notes; boxes of candy; and 

bunches of flowers were among the forms her devotion took。  As a 

natural result; these two ladies became inseparable; and the most 

hermetically sealed doors opened before the new arrival。



A talent for music or acting is another aid。  A few years ago an 

entire family were floated into the desired haven on the waves of 

the sister's voice; and one young couple achieved success by the 

husband's aptitude for games and sports。  In the latter case it was 

the man of the family who did the work; dragging his wife up after 

him。  A polo pony is hardly one's idea of a battle…horse; but in 

this case it bore its rider on to success。



Once climbers have succeeded in installing themselves in the 

stronghold of their ambitions; they become more exclusive than 

their new friends ever dreamed of being; and it tries one's self…

restraint to hear these new arrivals deploring 〃the levelling 

tendencies of the age;〃 or wondering 〃how nice people can be 

beginning to call on those horrid So…and…Sos。  Their father sold 

shoes; you know。〃  This ultra…exclusiveness is not to be wondered 

at。  The only attraction the circle they have just entered has for 

the climbers is its exclusiveness; and they do not intend that it 

shall lose its market value in their hands。  Like Baudelaire; they 

believe that 〃it is only the small number saved that makes the 

charm of Paradise。〃  Having spent hard cash in this investment; 

they have every intention of getting their money's worth。



In order to give outsiders a vivid impression of the footing on 

which they stand with the great of the world; all the women they 

have just met become Nellys and Jennys; and all the men Dicks and 

Freds … behind their backs; BIEN ENTENDU … for Mrs。 〃Newcome〃 has 

not yet reached that point of intimacy which warrants using such 

abbreviations directly to the owners。



Another amiable weakness common to the climber is that of knowing 

everybody。  No name can be mentioned at home or abroad but Parvenu 

happens to be on the most intimate terms with the owner; and when 

he is conversing; great names drop out of his mouth as plentifully 

as did the pearls from the pretty lips of the girl in the fairy 

story。  All the world knows how such a gentleman; being asked on 

his return from the East if he had seen 〃the Dardanelles;〃 

answered; 〃Oh; dear; yes!  I dined with them several times!〃 thus 

settling satisfactorily his standing in the Orient!



Climbing; like every other habit; soon takes possession of the 

whole nature。  To abstain from it is torture。  Napoleon; we are 

told; found it impossible to rest contented on his successes; but 

was impelled onward by a force stronger than his volition。  In some 

such spirit the ambitious souls here referred to; after 〃the 

Conquest of America〃 and the discovery that the fruit of their 

struggles was not worth very much; victory having brought the 

inevitable satiety in its wake; sail away in search of new fields 

of adventure。  They have long ago left behind the friends and 

acquaintances of their childhood。  Relations they apparently have 

none; which accounts for the curious phenomenon that a parvenu is 

never in mourning。  As no friendships bind them to their new 

circle; the ties are easily loosened。  Why should they care for one 

city more than for another; unless it offer more of the sport they 

love?  This continent has become tame; since there is no longer any 

struggle; while over the sea vast hunting grounds and game worthy 

of their powder; form an irresistible temptation … old and 

exclusive societies to be besieged; and contests to be waged 

compared to which their American experiences are but light 

skirmishes。  As the polo pony is supposed to pant for the fray; so 

the hearts of social conquerors warm within them at the prospect of 

more brilliant victories。



The pleasure of following them on their hunting parties abroad will 

have to be deferred; so vast is the subject; so full of thrilling 

adventure and; alas! also of humiliating defeat。









CHAPTER 27 … The Last of the Dandies





SO completely has the dandy disappeared from among us; that even 

the word has an old…time look (as if it had strayed out of some 

half…forgotten novel or 〃keepsake〃); raising in our minds the 

picture of a slender; clean…shaven youth; in very tight 

unmentionables strapped under his feet; a dark green frock…coat 

with a collar up to the ears and a stock whose folds cover his 

chest; butter…colored gloves; and a hat … oh! a hat that would 

collect a crowd in two minutes in any neighborhood!  A gold…headed 

stick; and a quizzing glass; with a black ribbon an inch wide; 

complete the toilet。  In such a rig did the swells of the last 

generation stroll down Pall Mall or drive their tilburys in the 

Bois。



The recent illness of the Prince de Sagan has made a strange and 

sad impression in many circles in Paris; for he has always been a 

favorite; and is the last surviving type of a now extinct species。  

He is the last Dandy!  No understudy will be found to fill his role 

… the dude and the swell are whole generations away from the dandy; 

of which they are but feeble reflections … the comedy will have to 

be continued now; without its leading gentleman。  With his head of 

silvery hair; his eye…glass and his wonderful waistcoats; he held 

the first place in the 〃high life〃 of the French capital。



No first night or ball was complete without him; Sagan。  The very 

mention of his name in their articles must have kept the wolf from 

the door of needy reporters。  No DEBUTANTE; social or theatrical; 

felt sure of her success until it had received the hall…mark of his 

approval。  When he assisted at a dress rehearsal; the actors and 

the managers paid him more attention than Sarcey or Sardou; for he 

was known to be the real arbiter of their fate。  His word was law; 

the world bowed before it as before the will of an autocrat。  

Mature matrons received his dictates with the same reverence that 

the Old Guard evinced for Napoleon's orders。  Had he not led them 

on to victory in their youth?



On the boulevards or at a race…course; he was the one person always 

known by sight and pointed out。  〃There goes Sagan!〃  He had become 

an institution。  One does not know exactly how or why he achieved 

the position; which made him the most followed; flattered; and 

copied man of his day。  It certainly was unique!



The Prince of Sagan is descended from Maurice de Saxe (the natural 

son of the King of Saxony and Aurora of Koenigsmark); who in his 

day shone brilliantly at the French court and was so madly loved by 

Adrienne Lecouvreur。  From his great ancestor; Sagan inherited the 

title of Grand Duke Of Courland (the estates have been absorbed 

into a neighboring empire)。  Nevertheless; he is still an R。H。; and 

when crowned heads visit Paris they dine with him and receive him 

on a footing of equality。  He married a great fortune; and the 

daughter of the banker Selliere。  Their house on the Esplanade des 

Invalides has been for years the centre of aristocratic life in 

Paris; not the most exclusive circle; but certainly the gayest of 

this gay capital; and from the days of Louis Philippe he has given 

the keynote to the fast set。



Oddly enough; he has always been a great favorite with the lower 

classes (a popularity shared by all the famo

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