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American heart lingers the secret hope that with luck and good 

management they too may do those very things; or at least that 

their children will enjoy the fortunes they have gained; in just 

those ways。  The gloom of the monotonous present is brightened; the 

patient toiler returns to his desk with something definite before 

him … an objective point … towards which he can struggle; he knows 

that this is no impossible dream。  Dozens have succeeded and prove 

to him what energy and enterprise can accomplish。



Do not laugh at this suggestion; it is far truer than you imagine。  

Many a weary woman has turned from such reading to her narrow 

duties; feeling that life is not all work; and with renewed hope in 

the possibilities of the future。



Doubtless a certain amount of purely idle curiosity is mingled with 

the other feelings。  I remember quite well showing our city sights 

to a bored party of Western friends; and failing entirely to amuse 

them; when; happening to mention as we drove up town; 〃there goes 

Mr。 Blank;〃 (naming a prominent leader of cotillions); my guests 

nearly fell over each other and out of the carriage in their 

eagerness to see the gentleman of whom they had read so much; and 

who was; in those days; a power in his way; and several times after 

they expressed the greatest satisfaction at having seen him。



I have found; with rare exceptions; and the experience has been 

rather widely gathered all over the country; that this interest … 

or call it what you will … has been entirely without spite or 

bitterness; rather the delight of a child in a fairy story。  For 

people are rarely envious of things far removed from their grasp。  

You will find that a woman who is bitter because her neighbor has a 

girl 〃help〃 or a more comfortable cottage; rarely feels envy 

towards the owners of opera…boxes or yachts。  Such heart…burnings 

(let us hope they are few) are among a class born in the shadow of 

great wealth; and bred up with tastes that they can neither 

relinquish nor satisfy。  The large majority of people show only a 

good…natured inclination to chaff; none of the 〃class feeling〃 

which certain papers and certain politicians try to excite。  

Outside of the large cities with their foreign…bred; semi…

anarchistic populations; the tone is perfectly friendly; for the 

simple reason that it never entered into the head of any American 

to imagine that there WAS any class difference。  To him his rich 

neighbors are simply his lucky neighbors; almost his relations; 

who; starting from a common stock; have been able to 〃get there〃 

sooner than he has done。  So he wishes them luck on the voyage in 

which he expects to join them as soon as he has had time to make a 

fortune。



So long as the world exists; or at least until we have reformed it 

and adopted Mr。 Bellamy's delightful scheme of existence as 

described in 〃Looking Backward;〃 great fortunes will be made; and 

painful contrasts be seen; especially in cities; and it would seem 

to be the duty of the press to soften … certainly not to sharpen … 

the edge of discontent。  As long as human nature is human nature; 

and the poor care to read of the doings of the more fortunate; by 

all means give them the reading they enjoy and demand; but let it 

be written in a kindly spirit so that it may be a cultivation as 

well as a recreation。  Treat this perfectly natural and honest 

taste honestly and naturally; for; after all; it is





The desire of the moth for the star;

Of the night for the morrow。

The devotion to something afar

From the sphere of our sorrow。









CHAPTER 3 … Contrasted Travelling





WHEN our parents went to Europe fifty years ago; it was the event 

of a lifetime … a tour lovingly mapped out in advance with advice 

from travelled friends。  Passports were procured; books read; wills 

made; and finally; prayers were offered up in church and solemn 

leave…taking performed。  Once on the other side; descriptive 

letters were conscientiously written; and eagerly read by friends 

at home; … in spite of these epistles being on the thinnest of 

paper and with crossing carried to a fine art; for postage was high 

in the forties。  Above all; a journal was kept。



Such a journal lies before me as I write。  Four little volumes in 

worn morocco covers and faded 〃Italian〃 writing; more precious than 

all my other books combined; their sight recalls that lost time … 

my youth … when; as a reward; they were unlocked that I might look 

at the drawings; and the sweetest voice in the world would read to 

me from them!  Happy; vanished days; that are so far away they seem 

to have been in another existence!



The first volume opens with the voyage across the Atlantic; made in 

an American clipper (a model unsurpassed the world over); which was 

accomplished in thirteen days; a feat rarely equalled now; by sail。  

Genial Captain Nye was in command。  The same who later; when a 

steam propelled vessel was offered him; refused; as unworthy of a 

seaman; 〃to boil a kettle across the ocean。〃



Life friendships were made in those little cabins; under the 

swinging lamp the travellers re…read last volumes so as to be 

prepared to appreciate everything on landing。  Ireland; England and 

Scotland were visited with an enthusiasm born of Scott; the tedium 

of long coaching journeys being beguiled by the first 〃numbers〃 of 

〃Pickwick;〃 over which the men of the party roared; but which the 

ladies did not care for; thinking it vulgar; and not to be compared 

to 〃Waverley;〃 〃Thaddeus of Warsaw;〃 or 〃The Mysteries of Udolpho。〃



A circular letter to our diplomatic agents abroad was presented in 

each city; a rite invariably followed by an invitation to dine; for 

which occasions a black satin frock with a low body and a few 

simple ornaments; including (supreme elegance) a diamond cross; 

were carried in the trunks。  In London a travelling carriage was 

bought and stocked; the indispensable courier engaged; half guide; 

half servant; who was expected to explore a city; or wait at table; 

as occasion required。  Four days were passed between Havre and 

Paris; and the slow progress across Europe was accomplished; Murray 

in one hand and Byron in the other。



One page used particularly to attract my boyish attention。  It was 

headed by a naive little drawing of the carriage at an Italian inn 

door; and described how; after the dangers and discomforts of an 

Alpine pass; they descended by sunny slopes into Lombardy。  Oh! the 

rapture that breathes from those simple pages!  The vintage scenes; 

the mid…day halt for luncheon eaten in the open air; the afternoon 

start; the front seat of the carriage heaped with purple grapes; 

used to fire my youthful imagination and now recalls Madame de 

Stael's line on perfect happiness: 〃To be young! to be in love! to 

be in Italy!〃



Do people enjoy Europe as much now?  I doubt it!  It has become too 

much a matter of course; a necessary part of the routine of life。  

Much of the bloom is brushed from foreign scenes by descriptive 

books and photographs; that St。 Mark's or Mt。 Blanc has become as 

familiar to a child's eye as the house he lives in; and in 

consequence the reality now instead of being a revelation is often 

a disappointment。



In my youth; it was still an event to cross。  I remember my first 

voyage on the old side…wheeled SCOTIA; and Captain Judkins in a 

wheeled chair; and a perpetual bad temper; being pushed about the 

deck; and our delight; when the inevitable female asking him (three 

days out) how far we were from land; got the answer 〃about a mile!〃



〃Indeed!  How interesting!  In which direction?〃



〃In that direction; madam;〃 shouted the captain; pointing downward 

as he turned his back to her。



If I remember; we were then thirteen days getting to Liverpool; and 

made the acquaintance on board of the people with whom we travelled 

during most of that winter。  Imagine anyone now making an 

acquaintance on board a steamer!  In those simple days people 

depended on the friendships made at summer hotels or boarding…

houses for their visiting list。  At present; when a girl comes out; 

her mother presents her to everybody she will be likely to know if 

she were to live a century。  In the seventies; ladies cheerfully 

shared their state…rooms with women they did not know; and often 

became friends in consequence; but now; unless a certain deck…suite 

can be secured; with bath and sitting…room; on one or two 

particular 〃steamers;〃 the great lady is in despair。  Yet our 

mothers were quite as refined as the present generation; only they 

took life simply; as they found it。



Children are now taken abroad so young; that before they have 

reached an age to appreciate what they see; Europe has become to 

them a twice…told tale。  So true is this; that a receipt for making 

children good Americans is to bring them up abroad。  Once they get 

back here it is hard to entice them away again。



With each improvement in the speed of our steamers; something of 

the glamour of Europe vanishes。  The crowds that yearly rush across 

see and appreciate less in a lifetime than our parents did in their 

one tour abroad。  A good lady of my acquaintance was complaining 

recently how much Paris bored her。



〃What can you do to pass the time?〃 she asked。  I innocently 

answered that I knew nothing so entrancing as long mornings passed 

at the Louvre。



〃Oh; yes; I do that too;〃 she replied; 〃but I like the 'Bon Marche' 

best!〃



A trip abroad has become a purely social function to a large number 

of wealthy Americans; including 〃presentation〃 in London and a 

winter in Rome or Cairo。  And just as a 〃smart〃 Englishman is sure 

to tell you that he has never visited the 〃Tower;〃 it has become 

good form to ignore the sight…seeing side of Europe; hundreds of 

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