worldly ways and byways-第4部分

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to　tell　you　that　he　has　never　visited　the　〃Tower；〃　it　has　become　

good　form　to　ignore　the　sight…seeing　side　of　Europe；　hundreds　of　

New　Yorkers　never　seeing　anything　of　Paris　beyond　the　Rue　de　la　

Paix　and　the　Bois。　　They　would　as　soon　think　of　going　to　Cluny　or　

St。　Denis　as　of　visiting　the　museum　in　our　park！



Such　people　go　to　Fontainebleau　because　they　are　buying　furniture；　

and　they　wish　to　see　the　best　models。　　They　go　to　Versailles　on　the　

coach　and　〃do〃　the　Palace　during　the　half…hour　before　luncheon。　　

Beyond　that；　enthusiasm　rarely　carries　them。　　As　soon　as　they　have　

settled　themselves　at　the　Bristol　or　the　Rhin　begins　the　endless　

treadmill　of　leaving　cards　on　all　the　people　just　seen　at　home；　and　

whom　they　will　meet　again　in　a　couple　of　months　at　Newport　or　Bar　

Harbor。　　This　duty　and　the　all…entrancing　occupation　of　getting　

clothes　fills　up　every　spare　hour。　　Indeed；　clothes　seem　to　pervade　

the　air　of　Paris　in　May；　the　conversation　rarely　deviating　from　

them。　　If　you　meet　a　lady　you　know　looking　ill；　and　ask　the　cause；　

it　generally　turns　out　to　be　〃four　hours　a　day　standing　to　be　

fitted。〃　　Incredible　as　it　may　seem；　I　have　been　told　of　one　plain　

maiden　lady；　who　makes　a　trip　across；　spring　and　autumn；　with　the　

sole　object　of　getting　her　two　yearly　outfits。



Remembering　the　hundreds　of　cultivated　people　whose　dream　in　life　

（often　unrealized　from　lack　of　means）　has　been　to　go　abroad　and　

visit　the　scenes　their　reading　has　made　familiar；　and　knowing　what　

such　a　trip　would　mean　to　them；　and　how　it　would　be　looked　back　

upon　during　the　rest　of　an　obscure　life；　I　felt　it　almost　a　duty　to　

〃suppress〃　a　wealthy　female　（doubtless　an　American　cousin　of　Lady　

Midas）　when　she　informed　me；　the　other　day；　that　decidedly　she　

would　not　go　abroad　this　spring。



〃It　is　not　necessary。　　Worth　has　my　measures！〃









CHAPTER　4　…　The　Outer　and　the　Inner　Woman





IT　is　a　sad　commentary　on　our　boasted　civilization　that　cases　of　

shoplifting　occur　more　and　more　frequently　each　year；　in　which　the　

delinquents　are　women　of　education　and　refinement；　or　at　least　

belong　to　families　and　occupy　positions　in　which　one　would　expect　

to　find　those　qualities！　　The　reason；　however；　is　not　difficult　to　

discover。



In　the　wake　of　our　hasty　and　immature　prosperity　has　come　（as　it　

does　to　all　suddenly　enriched　societies）　a　love　of　ostentation；　a　

desire　to　dazzle　the　crowd　by　displays　of　luxury　and　rich　trappings　

indicative　of　crude　and　vulgar　standards。　　The　newly　acquired　

money；　instead　of　being　expended　for　solid　comforts　or　articles　

which　would　afford　lasting　satisfaction；　is　lavished　on　what　can　be　

worn　in　public；　or　the　outer　shell　of　display；　while　the　home　table　

and　fireside　belongings　are　neglected。　　A　glance　around　our　

theatres；　or　at　the　men　and　women　in　our　crowded　thoroughfares；　is　

sufficient　to　reveal　to　even　a　casual　observer　that　the　mania　for　

fine　clothes　and　what　is　costly；　PER　SE；　has　become　the　besetting　

sin　of　our　day　and　our　land。



The　tone　of　most　of　the　papers　and　of　our　theatrical　advertisements　

reflects　this　feeling。　　The　amount　of　money　expended　for　a　work　of　

art　or　a　new　building　is　mentioned　before　any　comment　as　to　its　

beauty　or　fitness。　　A　play　is　spoken　of　as　〃Manager　So　and　So's　

thirty…thousand…dollar　production！〃　　The　fact　that　a　favorite　

actress　will　appear　in　four　different　dresses　during　the　three　acts　

of　a　comedy；　each　toilet　being　a　special　creation　designed　for　her　

by　a　leading　Parisian　house；　is　considered　of　supreme　importance　

and　is　dwelt　upon　in　the　programme　as　a　special　attraction。



It　would　be　astonishing　if　the　taste　of　our　women　were　different；　

considering　the　way　clothes　are　eternally　being　dangled　before　

their　eyes。　　Leading　papers　publish　illustrated　supplements　devoted　

exclusively　to　the　subject　of　attire；　thus　carrying　temptation　into　

every　humble　home；　and　suggesting　unattainable　luxuries。　　Windows　

in　many　of　the　larger　shops　contain　life…sized　manikins　loaded　with　

the　latest　costly　and　ephemeral　caprices　of　fashion　arranged　to　

catch　the　eye　of　the　poorer　class　of　women；　who　stand　in　hundreds　

gazing　at　the　display　like　larks　attracted　by　a　mirror！　　Watch　

those　women　as　they　turn　away；　and　listen　to　their　sighs　of　

discontent　and　envy。　　Do　they　not　tell　volumes　about　petty　hopes　

and　ambitions？



I　do　not　refer　to　the　wealthy　women　whose　toilets　are　in　keeping　

with　their　incomes　and　the　general　footing　of　their　households；　

that　they　should　spend　more　or　less　in　fitting　themselves　out　

daintily　is　of　little　importance。　　The　point　where　this　subject　

becomes　painful　is　in　families　of　small　means　where　young　girls　

imagine　that　to　be　elaborately　dressed　is　the　first　essential　of　

existence；　and；　in　consequence；　bend　their　labors　and　their　

intelligence　towards　this　end。　　Last　spring　I　asked　an　old　friend　

where　she　and　her　daughters　intended　passing　their　summer。　　Her　

answer　struck　me　as　being　characteristic　enough　to　quote：　〃We　

should　much　prefer；〃　she　said；　〃returning　to　Bar　Harbor；　for　we　all　

enjoy　that　place　and　have　many　friends　there。　　But　the　truth　is；　my　

daughters　have　bought　themselves　very　little　in　the　way　of　toilet　

this　year；　as　our　finances　are　not　in　a　flourishing　condition。　　So　

my　poor　girls　will　be　obliged　to　make　their　last　year's　dresses　do　

for　another　season。　　Under　these　circumstances；　it　is　out　of　the　

question　for　us　to　return　a　second　summer　to　the　same　place。〃



I　do　not　know　how　this　anecdote　strikes　my　readers。　　It　made　me　

thoughtful　and　sad　to　think　that；　in　a　family　of　intelligent　and　

practical　women；　such　a　reason　should　be　considered　sufficient　to　

outweigh　enjoyment；　social　relations；　even　health；　and　allowed　to　

change　the　plans　of　an　entire　family。



As　American　women　are　so　fond　of　copying　English　ways　they　should　

be　willing　to　take　a　few　lessons　on　the　subject　of　raiment　from　

across　the　water。　　As　this　is　not　intended　to　be　a　dissertation　on　

〃How　to　Dress　Well　on　Nothing　a　Year；〃　and　as　I　feel　the　greatest　

diffidence　in　approaching　a　subject　of　which　I　know　absolutely　

nothing；　it　will　be　better　to　sheer　off　from　these　reefs　and　

quicksands。　　Every　one　who　reads　these　lines　will　know　perfectly　

well　what　is　meant；　when　reference　is　made　to　the　good　sense　and　

practical　utility　of　English　women's　dress。



What　disgusts　and　angers　me　（when　my　way　takes　me　into　our　surface　

or　elevated　cars　or　into　ferry　boats　and　local　trains）　is　the　utter　

dissonance　between　the　outfit　of　most　of　the　women　I　meet　and　their　

position　and　occupation。　　So　universal　is　this；　that　it　might　

almost　be　laid　down　as　an　axiom；　that　the　American　woman；　no　matter　

in　what　walk　of　life　you　observe　her；　or　what　the　time　or　the　

place；　is　always　persistently　and　grotesquely　overdressed。　　From　

the　women　who　frequent　the　hotels　of　our　summer　or　winter　resorts；　

down　all　the　steps　of　the　social　staircase　to　the　char…woman；　who　

consents　（spasmodically）　to　remove　the　dust　and　waste…papers　from　

my　office；　there　seems　to　be　the　same　complete　disregard　of　

fitness。　　The　other　evening；　in　leaving　my　rooms；　I　brushed　against　

a　portly　person　in　the　half…light　of　the　corridor。　　There　was　a　

shimmer　of　（what　appeared　to　my　inexperienced　eyes　as）　costly　

stuffs；　a　huge　hat　crowned　the　shadow　itself；　〃topped　by　nodding　

plumes；〃　which　seemed　to　account　for　the　depleted　condition　of　my　

feather　duster。



I　found　on　inquiring　of　the　janitor；　that　the　dressy　person　I　had　

met；　was　the　char…woman　in　street　attire；　and　that　a　closet　was　set　

aside　in　the　building；　for　the　special　purpose　of　her　morning　and　

evening　transformations；　which　she　underwent　in　the　belief　that　her　

social　position　in　Avenue　A　would　suffer；　should　she　appear　in　the　

streets　wearing　anything　less　costly　than　seal…skin　and　velvet　or　

such　imitations　of　those　expensive　materials　as　her　stipend　would　

permit。



I　have　as　tenants　of　a　small　wooden　house　in　Jersey　City；　a　bank　

clerk；　his　wife　and　their　three　daughters。　　He　earns　in　the　

neighborhood　of　fifteen　hundred　dollars　a　year。　　Their　rent　（with　

which；　by　the　way；　they　are　always　in　arrears）　is　three　hundred　

dollars。　　I　am　favored　spring　and　autumn　by　a　visit　from　the　ladies　

of　that　family；　in　the　hope　（generally　futile）　of　inducing　me　to　do　

some　ornamental　papering　or　painting　in　their　residence；　subjects　

on　which　they　have　by　experience　found　my　agent　to　be　

unapproachable。　　When　those　four　women　descend　upon　me；　I　am　fairly　

dazzled　by　the　splendor　of　their　attire；　and　lost　in　wonder　as　to　

how　the　price　of　all　that　finery　can　have　been　squeezed　out　of　the　

twelve　remaining　hundreds　of　their　income。　　When　I　meet　the　father　

he　is　shabby　to　the　outer　limits　of　the　genteel。　　His　hat　has；　I　am　

sure；　supported　the　suns　and　snowstorms　of　a　dozen　seasons。　　There　

is　a　threadbare　shine　on　his　apparel　that　suggests　a　heartache　in　

each　whitened　seam；　but　the　ladies　are　mirrors　of　fashion；　as　well　

as　moulds　of　form。　　What　can　remain　for　any　creature　comforts　after　

all　those　fine　clothes　have　been　paid　for？　　And　how　much　is　put　

away　for　the　years　when　the　long…suffering　money　maker　will　be　past　

work；　or　saved　towards　the　time　when　sickness　or　accident　shall　

appear　on　the　horizon？　　How　those　ladies　had　the　〃nerve〃　to　enter　a　

ferry　boat　or　crowd　into　a　cable　car；　dressed　as　they　were；　has　

always　been　a　marvel　to　me。　　A　landau　and　two　liveried　servants　

would　barely　have　been　in　keeping　with　their　appearance。



Not　long　ago；　a　great　English　nobleman；　who　is　also　famous　in　the　

yachting　world；　visited　this　country　accompanied　by　his　two　

daughters；　high…bred　and　genial　ladies。　　No　self…respecting　

American　shop　girl　or　fashionable　typewriter　would　have　

condescended　to　appear　in　the　inexpensive　attire　which　those　

English　women　wore。　　Wherever　one　me