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architecture; and we get unexpected sea…views through cracks in the
street doors; on the whole; however; we are very snug and
comfortable; and well accommodated。 But the Home Secretary (if
there be such an officer) cannot too soon shut up the burial…ground
of the old parish church。 It is in the midst of us; and
Pavilionstone will get no good of it; if it be too long left alone。
The lion of Pavilionstone is its Great Hotel。 A dozen years ago;
going over to Paris by South…Eastern Tidal Steamer; you used to be
dropped upon the platform of the main line Pavilionstone Station
(not a junction then); at eleven o'clock on a dark winter's night;
in a roaring wind; and in the howling wilderness outside the
station; was a short omnibus which brought you up by the forehead
the instant you got in at the door; and nobody cared about you; and
you were alone in the world。 You bumped over infinite chalk; until
you were turned out at a strange building which had just left off
being a barn without having quite begun to be a house; where nobody
expected your coming; or knew what to do with you when you were
come; and where you were usually blown about; until you happened to
be blown against the cold beef; and finally into bed。 At five in
the morning you were blown out of bed; and after a dreary
breakfast; with crumpled company; in the midst of confusion; were
hustled on board a steamboat and lay wretched on deck until you saw
France lunging and surging at you with great vehemence over the
bowsprit。
Now; you come down to Pavilionstone in a free and easy manner; an
irresponsible agent; made over in trust to the South…Eastern
Company; until you get out of the railway…carriage at high…water
mark。 If you are crossing by the boat at once; you have nothing to
do but walk on board and be happy there if you can … I can't。 If
you are going to our Great Pavilionstone Hotel; the sprightliest
porters under the sun; whose cheerful looks are a pleasant welcome;
shoulder your luggage; drive it off in vans; bowl it away in
trucks; and enjoy themselves in playing athletic games with it。 If
you are for public life at our great Pavilionstone Hotel; you walk
into that establishment as if it were your club; and find ready for
you; your news…room; dining…room; smoking…room; billiard…room;
music…room; public breakfast; public dinner twice a…day (one plain;
one gorgeous); hot baths and cold baths。 If you want to be bored;
there are plenty of bores always ready for you; and from Saturday
to Monday in particular; you can be bored (if you like it) through
and through。 Should you want to be private at our Great
Pavilionstone Hotel; say but the word; look at the list of charges;
choose your floor; name your figure … there you are; established in
your castle; by the day; week; month; or year; innocent of all
comers or goers; unless you have my fancy for walking early in the
morning down the groves of boots and shoes; which so regularly
flourish at all the chamber…doors before breakfast; that it seems
to me as if nobody ever got up or took them in。 Are you going
across the Alps; and would you like to air your Italian at our
Great Pavilionstone Hotel? Talk to the Manager … always
conversational; accomplished; and polite。 Do you want to be aided;
abetted; comforted; or advised; at our Great Pavilionstone Hotel?
Send for the good landlord; and he is your friend。 Should you; or
any one belonging to you; ever be taken ill at our Great
Pavilionstone Hotel; you will not soon forget him or his kind wife。
And when you pay your bill at our Great Pavilionstone Hotel; you
will not be put out of humour by anything you find in it。
A thoroughly good inn; in the days of coaching and posting; was a
noble place。 But no such inn would have been equal to the
reception of four or five hundred people; all of them wet through;
and half of them dead sick; every day in the year。 This is where
we shine; in our Pavilionstone Hotel。 Again … who; coming and
going; pitching and tossing; boating and training; hurrying in; and
flying out; could ever have calculated the fees to be paid at an
old…fashioned house? In our Pavilionstone Hotel vocabulary; there
is no such word as fee。 Everything is done for you; every service
is provided at a fixed and reasonable charge; all the prices are
hung up in all the rooms; and you can make out your own bill
beforehand; as well as the book…keeper。
In the case of your being a pictorial artist; desirous of studying
at small expense the physiognomies and beards of different nations;
come; on receipt of this; to Pavilionstone。 You shall find all the
nations of the earth; and all the styles of shaving and not
shaving; hair cutting and hair letting alone; for ever flowing
through our hotel。 Couriers you shall see by hundreds; fat
leathern bags for five…franc pieces; closing with violent snaps;
like discharges of fire…arms; by thousands; more luggage in a
morning than; fifty years ago; all Europe saw in a week。 Looking
at trains; steamboats; sick travellers; and luggage; is our great
Pavilionstone recreation。 We are not strong in other public
amusements。 We have a Literary and Scientific Institution; and we
have a Working Men's Institution … may it hold many gipsy holidays
in summer fields; with the kettle boiling; the band of music
playing; and the people dancing; and may I be on the hill…side;
looking on with pleasure at a wholesome sight too rare in England!
… and we have two or three churches; and more chapels than I have
yet added up。 But public amusements are scarce with us。 If a poor
theatrical manager comes with his company to give us; in a loft;
Mary Bax; or the Murder on the Sand Hills; we don't care much for
him … starve him out; in fact。 We take more kindly to wax…work;
especially if it moves; in which case it keeps much clearer of the
second commandment than when it is still。 Cooke's Circus (Mr。
Cooke is my friend; and always leaves a good name behind him) gives
us only a night in passing through。 Nor does the travelling
menagerie think us worth a longer visit。 It gave us a look…in the
other day; bringing with it the residentiary van with the stained
glass windows; which Her Majesty kept ready…made at Windsor Castle;
until she found a suitable opportunity of submitting it for the
proprietor's acceptance。 I brought away five wonderments from this
exhibition。 I have wondered ever since; Whether the beasts ever do
get used to those small places of confinement; Whether the monkeys
have that very horrible flavour in their free state; Whether wild
animals have a natural ear for time and tune; and therefore every
four…footed creature began to howl in despair when the band began
to play; What the giraffe does with his neck when his cart is shut
up; and; Whether the elephant feels ashamed of himself when he is
brought out of his den to stand on his head in the presence of the
whole Collection。
We are a tidal harbour at Pavilionstone; as indeed I have implied
already in my mention of tidal trains。 At low water; we are a heap
of mud; with an empty channel in it where a couple of men in big
boots always shovel and scoop: with what exact object; I am unable
to say。 At that time; all the stranded fishing…boats turn over on
their sides; as if they were dead marine monsters; the colliers and
other shipping stick disconsolate in the mud; the steamers look as
if their white chimneys would never smoke more; and their red
paddles never turn again; the green sea…slime and weed upon the
rough stones at the entrance; seem records of obsolete high tides
never more to flow; the flagstaff…halyards droop; the very little
wooden lighthouse shrinks in the idle glare of the sun。 And here I
may observe of the very little wooden lighthouse; that when it is
lighted at night; … red and green; … it looks so like a medical
man's; that several distracted husbands have at various times been
found; on occasions of premature domestic anxiety; going round and
round it; trying to find the Nightbell。
But; the moment the tide begins to make; the Pavilionstone Harbour
begins to revive。 It feels the breeze of the rising water before
the water comes; and begins to flutter and stir。 When the little
shallow waves creep in; barely overlapping one another; the vanes
at the mastheads wake; and become agitated。 As the tide rises; the
fishing…boats get into good spirits and dance; the flagstaff hoists
a bright red flag; the steamboat smokes; cranes creak; horses and
carriages dangle in the air; stray passengers and luggage appear。
Now; the shipping is afloat; and comes up buoyantly; to look at the
wharf。 Now; the carts that have come down for coals; load away as
hard as they can load。 Now; the steamer smokes immensely; and
occasionally blows at the paddle…boxes like a vaporous whale…
greatly disturbing nervous loungers。 Now; both the tide and the
breeze have risen; and you are holding your hat on (if you want to
see how the ladies hold THEIR hats on; with a stay; passing over
the broad brim and down the nose; come to Pavilionstone)。 Now;
everything in the harbour splashes; dashes; and bobs。 Now; the
Down Tidal Train is telegraphed; and you know (without knowing how
you know); that two hundred and eighty…seven people are coming。
Now; the fishing…boats that have been out; sail in at the top of
the tide。 Now; the bell goes; and the locomotive hisses and
shrieks; and the train comes gliding in; and the two hundred and
eighty…seven come scuffling out。 Now; there is not only a tide of
water; but a tide of people; and a tide of luggage … all tumbling
and flowing and bouncing about together。 Now; after infinite
bustle; the steamer steams out; and we (on the Pier) are all
delighted when she rolls as if she would roll her funnel out; and
all are disappointed when she don't。 Now; the other steamer is
coming in; and the Custom