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country blue frocks and red handkerchiefs; and the butchers' coats;
shaggy; furry; and hairy: of calf…skin; cow…skin; horse…skin; and
bear…skin: towers a cocked hat and a blue cloak。 Slavery! For OUR
Police wear great…coats and glazed hats。
But now the bartering is over; and the calves are sold。 'Ho!
Gregoire; Antoine; Jean; Louis! Bring up the carts; my children!
Quick; brave infants! Hola! Hi!'
The carts; well littered with straw; are backed up to the edge of
the raised pavement; and various hot infants carry calves upon
their heads; and dexterously pitch them in; while other hot
infants; standing in the carts; arrange the calves; and pack them
carefully in straw。 Here is a promising young calf; not sold; whom
Madame Doche unbinds。 Pardon me; Madame Doche; but I fear this
mode of tying the four legs of a quadruped together; though
strictly a la mode; is not quite right。 You observe; Madame Doche;
that the cord leaves deep indentations in the skin; and that the
animal is so cramped at first as not to know; or even remotely
suspect that HE is unbound; until you are so obliging as to kick
him; in your delicate little way; and pull his tail like a bell…
rope。 Then; he staggers to his knees; not being able to stand; and
stumbles about like a drunken calf; or the horse at Franconi's;
whom you may have seen; Madame Doche; who is supposed to have been
mortally wounded in battle。 But; what is this rubbing against me;
as I apostrophise Madame Doche? It is another heated infant with a
calf upon his head。 'Pardon; Monsieur; but will you have the
politeness to allow me to pass?' 'Ah; sir; willingly。 I am vexed
to obstruct the way。' On he staggers; calf and all; and makes no
allusion whatever either to my eyes or limbs。
Now; the carts are all full。 More straw; my Antoine; to shake over
these top rows; then; off we will clatter; rumble; jolt; and
rattle; a long row of us; out of the first town…gate; and out at
the second town…gate; and past the empty sentry…box; and the little
thin square bandbox of a guardhouse; where nobody seems to live:
and away for Paris; by the paved road; lying; a straight; straight
line; in the long; long avenue of trees。 We can neither choose our
road; nor our pace; for that is all prescribed to us。 The public
convenience demands that our carts should get to Paris by such a
route; and no other (Napoleon had leisure to find that out; while
he had a little war with the world upon his hands); and woe betide
us if we infringe orders。
Drovers of oxen stand in the Cattle Market; tied to iron bars fixed
into posts of granite。 Other droves advance slowly down the long
avenue; past the second town…gate; and the first town…gate; and the
sentry…box; and the bandbox; thawing the morning with their smoky
breath as they come along。 Plenty of room; plenty of time。
Neither man nor beast is driven out of his wits by coaches; carts;
waggons; omnibuses; gigs; chaises; phaetons; cabs; trucks; boys;
whoopings; roarings; and multitudes。 No tail…twisting is necessary
… no iron pronging is necessary。 There are no iron prongs here。
The market for cattle is held as quietly as the market for calves。
In due time; off the cattle go to Paris; the drovers can no more
choose their road; nor their time; nor the numbers they shall
drive; than they can choose their hour for dying in the course of
nature。
Sheep next。 The sheep…pens are up here; past the Branch Bank of
Paris established for the convenience of the butchers; and behind
the two pretty fountains they are making in the Market。 My name is
Bull: yet I think I should like to see as good twin fountains … not
to say in Smithfield; but in England anywhere。 Plenty of room;
plenty of time。 And here are sheep…dogs; sensible as ever; but
with a certain French air about them … not without a suspicion of
dominoes … with a kind of flavour of moustache and beard …
demonstrative dogs; shaggy and loose where an English dog would be
tight and close … not so troubled with business calculations as our
English drovers' dogs; who have always got their sheep upon their
minds; and think about their work; even resting; as you may see by
their faces; but; dashing; showy; rather unreliable dogs: who might
worry me instead of their legitimate charges if they saw occasion …
and might see it somewhat suddenly。
The market for sheep passes off like the other two; and away they
go; by THEIR allotted road to Paris。 My way being the Railway; I
make the best of it at twenty miles an hour; whirling through the
now high…lighted landscape; thinking that the inexperienced green
buds will be wishing; before long; they had not been tempted to
come out so soon; and wondering who lives in this or that chateau;
all window and lattice; and what the family may have for breakfast
this sharp morning。
After the Market comes the Abattoir。 What abattoir shall I visit
first? Montmartre is the largest。 So I will go there。
The abattoirs are all within the walls of Paris; with an eye to the
receipt of the octroi duty; but; they stand in open places in the
suburbs; removed from the press and bustle of the city。 They are
managed by the Syndicat or Guild of Butchers; under the inspection
of the Police。 Certain smaller items of the revenue derived from
them are in part retained by the Guild for the payment of their
expenses; and in part devoted by it to charitable purposes in
connexion with the trade。 They cost six hundred and eighty
thousand pounds; and they return to the city of Paris an interest
on that outlay; amounting to nearly six and a…half per cent。
Here; in a sufficiently dismantled space is the Abattoir of
Montmartre; covering nearly nine acres of ground; surrounded by a
high wall; and looking from the outside like a cavalry barrack。 At
the iron gates is a small functionary in a large cocked hat。
'Monsieur desires to see the abattoir? Most certainly。' State
being inconvenient in private transactions; and Monsieur being
already aware of the cocked hat; the functionary puts it into a
little official bureau which it almost fills; and accompanies me in
the modest attire … as to his head … of ordinary life。
Many of the animals from Poissy have come here。 On the arrival of
each drove; it was turned into yonder ample space; where each
butcher who had bought; selected his own purchases。 Some; we see
now; in these long perspectives of stalls with a high over…hanging
roof of wood and open tiles rising above the walls。 While they
rest here; before being slaughtered; they are required to be fed
and watered; and the stalls must be kept clean。 A stated amount of
fodder must always be ready in the loft above; and the supervision
is of the strictest kind。 The same regulations apply to sheep and
calves; for which; portions of these perspectives are strongly
railed off。 All the buildings are of the strongest and most solid
description。
After traversing these lairs; through which; besides the upper
provision for ventilation just mentioned; there may be a thorough
current of air from opposite windows in the side walls; and from
doors at either end; we traverse the broad; paved; court…yard until
we come to the slaughter…houses。 They are all exactly alike; and
adjoin each other; to the number of eight or nine together; in
blocks of solid building。 Let us walk into the first。
It is firmly built and paved with stone。 It is well lighted;
thoroughly aired; and lavishly provided with fresh water。 It has
two doors opposite each other; the first; the door by which I
entered from the main yard; the second; which is opposite; opening
on another smaller yard; where the sheep and calves are killed on
benches。 The pavement of that yard; I see; slopes downward to a
gutter; for its being more easily cleansed。 The slaughter…house is
fifteen feet high; sixteen feet and a…half wide; and thirty…three
feet long。 It is fitted with a powerful windlass; by which one man
at the handle can bring the head of an ox down to the ground to
receive the blow from the pole…axe that is to fell him … with the
means of raising the carcass and keeping it suspended during the
after…operation of dressing … and with hooks on which carcasses can
hang; when completely prepared; without touching the walls。 Upon
the pavement of this first stone chamber; lies an ox scarcely dead。
If I except the blood draining from him; into a little stone well
in a corner of the pavement; the place is free from offence as the
Place de la Concorde。 It is infinitely purer and cleaner; I know;
my friend the functionary; than the Cathedral of Notre Dame。 Ha;
ha! Monsieur is pleasant; but; truly; there is reason; too; in
what he says。
I look into another of these slaughter…houses。 'Pray enter;' says
a gentleman in bloody boots。 'This is a calf I have killed this
morning。 Having a little time upon my hands; I have cut and
punctured this lace pattern in the coats of his stomach。 It is
pretty enough。 I did it to divert myself。' … 'It is beautiful;
Monsieur; the slaughterer!' He tells me I have the gentility to
say so。
I look into rows of slaughter…houses。 In many; retail dealers; who
have come here for the purpose; are making bargains for meat。
There is killing enough; certainly; to satiate an unused eye; and
there are steaming carcasses enough; to suggest the expediency of a
fowl and salad for dinner; but; everywhere; there is an orderly;
clean; well…systematised routine of work in progress … horrible
work at the best; if you please; but; so much the greater reason
why it should be made the best of。 I don't know (I think I have
observed; my name is Bull) that a Parisian of the lowest order is
particularly delicate; or that his nature is remarkable for an
infinitesimal infusion of ferocity; but; I do know; my potent;
grave; and common counselling Signors; that he