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country blue frocks and red handkerchiefs; and the butchers' coats;

shaggy; furry; and hairy: of calf…skin; cow…skin; horse…skin; and

bear…skin: towers a cocked hat and a blue cloak。  Slavery!  For OUR

Police wear great…coats and glazed hats。



But now the bartering is over; and the calves are sold。  'Ho!

Gregoire; Antoine; Jean; Louis!  Bring up the carts; my children!

Quick; brave infants!  Hola!  Hi!'



The carts; well littered with straw; are backed up to the edge of

the raised pavement; and various hot infants carry calves upon

their heads; and dexterously pitch them in; while other hot

infants; standing in the carts; arrange the calves; and pack them

carefully in straw。  Here is a promising young calf; not sold; whom

Madame Doche unbinds。  Pardon me; Madame Doche; but I fear this

mode of tying the four legs of a quadruped together; though

strictly a la mode; is not quite right。  You observe; Madame Doche;

that the cord leaves deep indentations in the skin; and that the

animal is so cramped at first as not to know; or even remotely

suspect that HE is unbound; until you are so obliging as to kick

him; in your delicate little way; and pull his tail like a bell…

rope。  Then; he staggers to his knees; not being able to stand; and

stumbles about like a drunken calf; or the horse at Franconi's;

whom you may have seen; Madame Doche; who is supposed to have been

mortally wounded in battle。  But; what is this rubbing against me;

as I apostrophise Madame Doche?  It is another heated infant with a

calf upon his head。  'Pardon; Monsieur; but will you have the

politeness to allow me to pass?'  'Ah; sir; willingly。  I am vexed

to obstruct the way。'  On he staggers; calf and all; and makes no

allusion whatever either to my eyes or limbs。



Now; the carts are all full。  More straw; my Antoine; to shake over

these top rows; then; off we will clatter; rumble; jolt; and

rattle; a long row of us; out of the first town…gate; and out at

the second town…gate; and past the empty sentry…box; and the little

thin square bandbox of a guardhouse; where nobody seems to live:

and away for Paris; by the paved road; lying; a straight; straight

line; in the long; long avenue of trees。  We can neither choose our

road; nor our pace; for that is all prescribed to us。  The public

convenience demands that our carts should get to Paris by such a

route; and no other (Napoleon had leisure to find that out; while

he had a little war with the world upon his hands); and woe betide

us if we infringe orders。



Drovers of oxen stand in the Cattle Market; tied to iron bars fixed

into posts of granite。  Other droves advance slowly down the long

avenue; past the second town…gate; and the first town…gate; and the

sentry…box; and the bandbox; thawing the morning with their smoky

breath as they come along。  Plenty of room; plenty of time。

Neither man nor beast is driven out of his wits by coaches; carts;

waggons; omnibuses; gigs; chaises; phaetons; cabs; trucks; boys;

whoopings; roarings; and multitudes。  No tail…twisting is necessary

… no iron pronging is necessary。  There are no iron prongs here。

The market for cattle is held as quietly as the market for calves。

In due time; off the cattle go to Paris; the drovers can no more

choose their road; nor their time; nor the numbers they shall

drive; than they can choose their hour for dying in the course of

nature。



Sheep next。  The sheep…pens are up here; past the Branch Bank of

Paris established for the convenience of the butchers; and behind

the two pretty fountains they are making in the Market。  My name is

Bull: yet I think I should like to see as good twin fountains … not

to say in Smithfield; but in England anywhere。  Plenty of room;

plenty of time。  And here are sheep…dogs; sensible as ever; but

with a certain French air about them … not without a suspicion of

dominoes … with a kind of flavour of moustache and beard …

demonstrative dogs; shaggy and loose where an English dog would be

tight and close … not so troubled with business calculations as our

English drovers' dogs; who have always got their sheep upon their

minds; and think about their work; even resting; as you may see by

their faces; but; dashing; showy; rather unreliable dogs: who might

worry me instead of their legitimate charges if they saw occasion …

and might see it somewhat suddenly。



The market for sheep passes off like the other two; and away they

go; by THEIR allotted road to Paris。  My way being the Railway; I

make the best of it at twenty miles an hour; whirling through the

now high…lighted landscape; thinking that the inexperienced green

buds will be wishing; before long; they had not been tempted to

come out so soon; and wondering who lives in this or that chateau;

all window and lattice; and what the family may have for breakfast

this sharp morning。



After the Market comes the Abattoir。  What abattoir shall I visit

first?  Montmartre is the largest。  So I will go there。



The abattoirs are all within the walls of Paris; with an eye to the

receipt of the octroi duty; but; they stand in open places in the

suburbs; removed from the press and bustle of the city。  They are

managed by the Syndicat or Guild of Butchers; under the inspection

of the Police。  Certain smaller items of the revenue derived from

them are in part retained by the Guild for the payment of their

expenses; and in part devoted by it to charitable purposes in

connexion with the trade。  They cost six hundred and eighty

thousand pounds; and they return to the city of Paris an interest

on that outlay; amounting to nearly six and a…half per cent。



Here; in a sufficiently dismantled space is the Abattoir of

Montmartre; covering nearly nine acres of ground; surrounded by a

high wall; and looking from the outside like a cavalry barrack。  At

the iron gates is a small functionary in a large cocked hat。

'Monsieur desires to see the abattoir?  Most certainly。'  State

being inconvenient in private transactions; and Monsieur being

already aware of the cocked hat; the functionary puts it into a

little official bureau which it almost fills; and accompanies me in

the modest attire … as to his head … of ordinary life。



Many of the animals from Poissy have come here。  On the arrival of

each drove; it was turned into yonder ample space; where each

butcher who had bought; selected his own purchases。  Some; we see

now; in these long perspectives of stalls with a high over…hanging

roof of wood and open tiles rising above the walls。  While they

rest here; before being slaughtered; they are required to be fed

and watered; and the stalls must be kept clean。  A stated amount of

fodder must always be ready in the loft above; and the supervision

is of the strictest kind。  The same regulations apply to sheep and

calves; for which; portions of these perspectives are strongly

railed off。  All the buildings are of the strongest and most solid

description。



After traversing these lairs; through which; besides the upper

provision for ventilation just mentioned; there may be a thorough

current of air from opposite windows in the side walls; and from

doors at either end; we traverse the broad; paved; court…yard until

we come to the slaughter…houses。  They are all exactly alike; and

adjoin each other; to the number of eight or nine together; in

blocks of solid building。  Let us walk into the first。



It is firmly built and paved with stone。  It is well lighted;

thoroughly aired; and lavishly provided with fresh water。  It has

two doors opposite each other; the first; the door by which I

entered from the main yard; the second; which is opposite; opening

on another smaller yard; where the sheep and calves are killed on

benches。  The pavement of that yard; I see; slopes downward to a

gutter; for its being more easily cleansed。  The slaughter…house is

fifteen feet high; sixteen feet and a…half wide; and thirty…three

feet long。  It is fitted with a powerful windlass; by which one man

at the handle can bring the head of an ox down to the ground to

receive the blow from the pole…axe that is to fell him … with the

means of raising the carcass and keeping it suspended during the

after…operation of dressing … and with hooks on which carcasses can

hang; when completely prepared; without touching the walls。  Upon

the pavement of this first stone chamber; lies an ox scarcely dead。

If I except the blood draining from him; into a little stone well

in a corner of the pavement; the place is free from offence as the

Place de la Concorde。  It is infinitely purer and cleaner; I know;

my friend the functionary; than the Cathedral of Notre Dame。  Ha;

ha!  Monsieur is pleasant; but; truly; there is reason; too; in

what he says。



I look into another of these slaughter…houses。  'Pray enter;' says

a gentleman in bloody boots。  'This is a calf I have killed this

morning。  Having a little time upon my hands; I have cut and

punctured this lace pattern in the coats of his stomach。  It is

pretty enough。  I did it to divert myself。' … 'It is beautiful;

Monsieur; the slaughterer!'  He tells me I have the gentility to

say so。



I look into rows of slaughter…houses。  In many; retail dealers; who

have come here for the purpose; are making bargains for meat。

There is killing enough; certainly; to satiate an unused eye; and

there are steaming carcasses enough; to suggest the expediency of a

fowl and salad for dinner; but; everywhere; there is an orderly;

clean; well…systematised routine of work in progress … horrible

work at the best; if you please; but; so much the greater reason

why it should be made the best of。  I don't know (I think I have

observed; my name is Bull) that a Parisian of the lowest order is

particularly delicate; or that his nature is remarkable for an

infinitesimal infusion of ferocity; but; I do know; my potent;

grave; and common counselling Signors; that he

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