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the　peasant　women；　always　neatly　and　comfortably　dressed；　riding

home；　with　the　pleasantest　saddle…furniture　of　clean　milk…pails；

bright　butter…kegs；　and　the　like；　on　the　jolliest　little　donkeys　in

the　world。



We　have　another　market　in　our　French　watering…place　…　that　is　to

say；　a　few　wooden　hutches　in　the　open　street；　down　by　the　Port　…

devoted　to　fish。　　Our　fishing…boats　are　famous　everywhere；　and　our

fishing　people；　though　they　love　lively　colours；　and　taste　is

neutral　（see　Bilkins）；　are　among　the　most　picturesque　people　we

ever　encountered。　　They　have　not　only　a　quarter　of　their　own　in　the

town　itself；　but　they　occupy　whole　villages　of　their　own　on　the

neighbouring　cliffs。　　Their　churches　and　chapels　are　their　own；

they　consort　with　one　another；　they　intermarry　among　themselves；

their　customs　are　their　own；　and　their　costume　is　their　own　and

never　changes。　　As　soon　as　one　of　their　boys　can　walk；　he　is

provided　with　a　long　bright　red　nightcap；　and　one　of　their　men

would　as　soon　think　of　going　afloat　without　his　head；　as　without

that　indispensable　appendage　to　it。　　Then；　they　wear　the　noblest

boots；　with　the　hugest　tops　…　flapping　and　bulging　over　anyhow；

above　which；　they　encase　themselves　in　such　wonderful　overalls　and

petticoat　trousers；　made　to　all　appearance　of　tarry　old　sails；　so

additionally　stiffened　with　pitch　and　salt；　that　the　wearers　have　a

walk　of　their　own；　and　go　straddling　and　swinging　about　among　the

boats　and　barrels　and　nets　and　rigging；　a　sight　to　see。　　Then；

their　younger　women；　by　dint　of　going　down　to　the　sea　barefoot；　to

fling　their　baskets　into　the　boats　as　they　come　in　with　the　tide；

and　bespeak　the　first　fruits　of　the　haul　with　propitiatory　promises

to　love　and　marry　that　dear　fisherman　who　shall　fill　that　basket

like　an　Angel；　have　the　finest　legs　ever　carved　by　Nature　in　the

brightest　mahogany；　and　they　walk　like　Juno。　　Their　eyes；　too；　are

so　lustrous　that　their　long　gold　ear…rings　turn　dull　beside　those

brilliant　neighbours；　and　when　they　are　dressed；　what　with　these

beauties；　and　their　fine　fresh　faces；　and　their　many　petticoats　…

striped　petticoats；　red　petticoats；　blue　petticoats；　always　clean

and　smart；　and　never　too　long　…　and　their　home…made　stockings；

mulberry…coloured；　blue；　brown；　purple；　lilac　…　which　the　older

women；　taking　care　of　the　Dutch…looking　children；　sit　in　all　sorts

of　places　knitting；　knitting；　knitting　from　morning　to　night　…　and

what　with　their　little　saucy　bright　blue　jackets；　knitted　too；　and

fitting　close　to　their　handsome　figures；　and　what　with　the　natural

grace　with　which　they　wear　the　commonest　cap；　or　fold　the　commonest

handkerchief　round　their　luxuriant　hair　…　we　say；　in　a　word　and　out

of　breath；　that　taking　all　these　premises　into　our　consideration；

it　has　never　been　a　matter　of　the　least　surprise　to　us　that　we　have

never　once　met；　in　the　cornfields；　on　the　dusty　roads；　by　the

breezy　windmills；　on　the　plots　of　short　sweet　grass　overhanging　the

sea　…　anywhere　…　a　young　fisherman　and　fisherwoman　of　our　French

watering…place　together；　but　the　arm　of　that　fisherman　has

invariably　been；　as　a　matter　of　course　and　without　any　absurd

attempt　to　disguise　so　plain　a　necessity；　round　the　neck　or　waist

of　that　fisherwoman。　　And　we　have　had　no　doubt　whatever；　standing

looking　at　their　uphill　streets；　house　rising　above　house；　and

terrace　above　terrace；　and　bright　garments　here　and　there　lying

sunning　on　rough　stone　parapets；　that　the　pleasant　mist　on　all　such

objects；　caused　by　their　being　seen　through　the　brown　nets　hung

across　on　poles　to　dry；　is；　in　the　eyes　of　every　true　young

fisherman；　a　mist　of　love　and　beauty；　setting　off　the　goddess　of

his　heart。



Moreover　it　is　to　be　observed　that　these　are　an　industrious　people；

and　a　domestic　people；　and　an　honest　people。　　And　though　we　are

aware　that　at　the　bidding　of　Bilkins　it　is　our　duty　to　fall　down

and　worship　the　Neapolitans；　we　make　bold　very　much　to　prefer　the

fishing　people　of　our　French　watering…place　…　especially　since　our

last　visit　to　Naples　within　these　twelvemonths；　when　we　found　only

four　conditions　of　men　remaining　in　the　whole　city：　to　wit；

lazzaroni；　priests；　spies；　and　soldiers；　and　all　of　them　beggars；

the　paternal　government　having　banished　all　its　subjects　except　the

rascals。



But　we　can　never　henceforth　separate　our　French　watering…place　from

our　own　landlord　of　two　summers；　M。　Loyal　Devasseur；　citizen　and

town…councillor。　　Permit　us　to　have　the　pleasure　of　presenting　M。

Loyal　Devasseur。



His　own　family　name　is　simply　Loyal；　but；　as　he　is　married；　and　as

in　that　part　of　France　a　husband　always　adds　to　his　own　name　the

family　name　of　his　wife；　he　writes　himself　Loyal　Devasseur。　　He

owns　a　compact　little　estate　of　some　twenty　or　thirty　acres　on　a

lofty　hill…side；　and　on　it　he　has　built　two　country　houses；　which

he　lets　furnished。　　They　are　by　many　degrees　the　best　houses　that

are　so　let　near　our　French　watering…place；　we　have　had　the　honour

of　living　in　both；　and　can　testify。　　The　entrance…hall　of　the　first

we　inhabited　was　ornamented　with　a　plan　of　the　estate；　representing

it　as　about　twice　the　size　of　Ireland；　insomuch　that　when　we　were

yet　new　to　the　property　（M。　Loyal　always　speaks　of　it　as　'La

propriete'）　we　went　three　miles　straight　on　end　in　search　of　the

bridge　of　Austerlitz　…　which　we　afterwards　found　to　be　immediately

outside　the　window。　　The　Chateau　of　the　Old　Guard；　in　another　part

of　the　grounds；　and；　according　to　the　plan；　about　two　leagues　from

the　little　dining…room；　we　sought　in　vain　for　a　week；　until；

happening　one　evening　to　sit　upon　a　bench　in　the　forest　（forest　in

the　plan）；　a　few　yards　from　the　house…door；　we　observed　at　our

feet；　in　the　ignominious　circumstances　of　being　upside　down　and

greenly　rotten；　the　Old　Guard　himself：　that　is　to　say；　the　painted

effigy　of　a　member　of　that　distinguished　corps；　seven　feet　high；

and　in　the　act　of　carrying　arms；　who　had　had　the　misfortune　to　be

blown　down　in　the　previous　winter。　　It　will　be　perceived　that　M。

Loyal　is　a　staunch　admirer　of　the　great　Napoleon。　　He　is　an　old

soldier　himself　…　captain　of　the　National　Guard；　with　a　handsome

gold　vase　on　his　chimney…piece　presented　to　him　by　his　company　…

and　his　respect　for　the　memory　of　the　illustrious　general　is

enthusiastic。　　Medallions　of　him；　portraits　of　him；　busts　of　him；

pictures　of　him；　are　thickly　sprinkled　all　over　the　property。

During　the　first　month　of　our　occupation；　it　was　our　affliction　to

be　constantly　knocking　down　Napoleon：　if　we　touched　a　shelf　in　a

dark　corner；　he　toppled　over　with　a　crash；　and　every　door　we

opened；　shook　him　to　the　soul。　　Yet　M。　Loyal　is　not　a　man　of　mere

castles　in　the　air；　or；　as　he　would　say；　in　Spain。　　He　has　a

specially　practical；　contriving；　clever；　skilful　eye　and　hand。　　His

houses　are　delightful。　　He　unites　French　elegance　and　English

comfort；　in　a　happy　manner　quite　his　own。　　He　has　an　extraordinary

genius　for　making　tasteful　little　bedrooms　in　angles　of　his　roofs；

which　an　Englishman　would　as　soon　think　of　turning　to　any　account

as　he　would　think　of　cultivating　the　Desert。　　We　have　ourself

reposed　deliciously　in　an　elegant　chamber　of　M。　Loyal's

construction；　with　our　head　as　nearly　in　the　kitchen　chimney…pot　as

we　can　conceive　it　likely　for　the　head　of　any　gentleman；　not　by

profession　a　Sweep；　to　be。　　And；　into　whatsoever　strange　nook　M。

Loyal's　genius　penetrates；　it；　in　that　nook；　infallibly　constructs

a　cupboard　and　a　row　of　pegs。　　In　either　of　our　houses；　we　could

have　put　away　the　knapsacks　and　hung　up　the　hats　of　the　whole

regiment　of　Guides。



　Aforetime；　M。　Loyal　was　a　tradesman　in　the　town。　　You　can　transact

business　with　no　present　tradesman　in　the　town；　and　give　your　card

'chez　M。　Loyal；'　but　a　brighter　face　shines　upon　you　directly。　　We

doubt　if　there　is；　ever　was；　or　ever　will　be；　a　man　so　universally

pleasant　in　the　minds　of　people　as　M。　Loyal　is　in　the　minds　of　the

citizens　of　our　French　watering…place。　　They　rub　their　hands　and

laugh　when　they　speak　of　him。　　Ah；　but　he　is　such　a　good　child；

such　a　brave　boy；　such　a　generous　spirit；　that　Monsieur　Loyal！　　It

is　the　honest　truth。　　M。　Loyal's　nature　is　the　nature　of　a

gentleman。　　He　cultivates　his　ground　with　his　own　hands　（assisted

by　one　little　labourer；　who　falls　into　a　fit　now　and　then）；　and　he

digs　and　delves　from　morn　to　eve　in　prodigious　perspirations　…

'works　always；'　as　he　says　…　but；　cover　him　with　dust；　mud；　weeds；

water；　any　stains　you　will；　you　never　can　cover　the　gentleman　in　M。

Loyal。　　A　portly；　upright；　broad…shouldered；　brown…faced　man；　whose

soldierly　bearing　gives　him　the　appearance　of　being　taller　than　he

is；　look　into　the　bright　eye　of　M。　Loyal；　standing　before　you　in

his　working…blouse　and　cap；　not　particularly　well　shaved；　and；　it

may　be；　very　earthy；　and　you　shall　discern　in　M。　Loyal　a　gentleman

whose　true　politeness　is　ingrain；　and　confirmation　of　whose　word　by

his　bond　you　would　blush　to　think　of。　　Not　without　reason　is　M。

Loyal　when　he　tells　that　story；　in　his　own　vivacious　way；　of　his

travelling　to　Fulham；　near　London；　to　buy　all　these　hundreds　and

hundreds　of　trees　you　now　see　upon　the　Property；　then　a　bare；　bleak

hill；　and　of　his　sojourning　in　Fulham　three　months；　and　of　his

jovial　evenings　with　the　market…gardeners；　and　of　the　crowning

banquet　before　his　departure；　when　the　market…gardeners　rose　as　one

man；　clinked　their　glasses　all　together　（as　the　custom　at　Fulham

is）；　and　cried；　'Vive　Loyal！'



M。　Loyal　has　an　agreeable　wife；　but　no　family；　and　he　loves　to

drill　the　children　of　his　tenants；　or　run　races　with　them；　or　do

anything　with　them；　or　for　them；　that　is　good…natured。　　He　is　of　a

highly　convivial　temperament；　and　his　hospitality　is　unbounded。

Billet　a　soldier　on　him；　and　he　is　delighted。　　Five…and…thirty

soldiers　had　M。　Loyal　billeted　on　him　this　present　summer；　and　they

all　got　fat　and　red…faced　i