glaucus-or the wonders of the shore(格劳高斯)-第9部分
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writing his book on British land…shells； the present writer learnt more of
the art of observing than he would have learnt in three years' desultory
hunting on his own account； and he has often regretted that no naturalist
has established shore…lectures at some watering…place； like those up hill
and down dale field…lectures which； in pleasant bygone Cambridge days；
Professor Sedgwick used to give to young geologists； and Professor
Henslow to young botanists。
In the meanwhile； to show you something of what may be seen by
those who care to see； let me take you； in imagination； to a shore where I
was once at home； and for whose richness I can vouch； and choose our
season and our day to start forth； on some glorious September or
October morning； to see what last night's equinoctial gale has swept
from the populous shallows of Torbay； and cast up； high and dry； on
Paignton sands。
Torbay is a place which should be as much endeared to the naturalist
as to the patriot and to the artist。 We cannot gaze on its blue ring of
water； and the great limestone bluffs which bound it to the north and
south； without a glow passing through our hearts； as we remember the
terrible and glorious pageant which passed by in the glorious July days
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of 1588； when the Spanish Armada ventured slowly past Berry Head；
with Elizabeth's gallant pack of Devon captains （for the London fleet
had not yet joined） following fast in its wake； and dashing into the midst
of the vast line； undismayed by size and numbers； while their kin and
friends stood watching and praying on the cliffs； spectators of Britain's
Salamis。 The white line of houses； too； on the other side of the bay； is
Brixham； famed as the landing…place of William of Orange； the stone on
the pier…head； which marks his first footsteps on British ground； is
sacred in the eyes of all true English Whigs； and close by stands the
castle of the settler of Newfoundland； Sir Humphrey Gilbert； Raleigh's
half…brother； most learned of all Elizabeth's admirals in life； most pious
and heroic in death。 And as for scenery； though it can boast of neither
mountain peak nor dark fiord； and would seem tame enough in the eyes
of a western Scot or Irishman； yet Torbay surely has a soft beauty of its
own。 The rounded hills slope gently to the sea； spotted with squares of
emerald grass； and rich red fallow fields； and parks full of stately timber
trees。 Long lines of tall elms run down to the very water's edge； their
boughs unwarped by any blast； here and there apple orchards are
bending under their loads of fruit； and narrow strips of water…meadow
line the glens； where the red cattle are already lounging in richest
pastures； within ten yards of the rocky pebble beach。 The shore is
silent now； the tide far out： but six hours hence it will be hurling
columns of rosy foam high into the sunlight； and sprinkling passengers；
and cattle； and trim gardens which hardly know what frost and snow
may be； but see the flowers of autumn meet the flowers of spring； and
the old year linger smilingly to twine a garland for the new。 No wonder
that such a spot as Torquay； with its delicious Italian climate； and endless
variety of rich woodland； flowery lawn； fantastic rock…cavern； and broad
bright tide…sand； sheltered from every wind of heaven except the soft
south…east； should have become a favourite haunt； not only for invalids；
but for naturalists。 Indeed； it may well claim the honour of being the
original home of marine zoology and botany in England； as the Firth of
Forth； under the auspices of Sir J。 G。 Dalyell； has been for Scotland。
For here worked Montagu； Turton； and Mrs。 Griffith； to whose
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extraordinary powers of research English marine botany almost owes its
existence； and who survived to an age long beyond the natural term of
man； to see； in her cheerful and honoured old age； that knowledge
become popular and general which she pursued for many a year
unassisted and alone。 Here； too； the scientific succession is still
maintained by Mr。 Pengelly and Mr。 Gosse； the latter of whom by his
delightful and； happily； well…known books has done more for the study
of marine zoology than any other living man。 Torbay； moreover； from
the variety of its rocks； aspects； and sea…floors； where limestones
alternate with traps； and traps with slates； while at the valley…mouth the
soft sandstones and hard conglomerates of the new red series slope down
into the tepid and shallow waves； affords an abundance and variety of
animal and vegetable life； unequalled； perhaps； in any other part of Great
Britain。 It cannot boast； certainly； of those strange deep…sea forms
which Messrs。 Alder； Goodsir； and Laskey dredge among the lochs of
the western Highlands； and the sub…marine mountain glens of the
Zetland sea； but it has its own varieties； its own ever…fresh novelties：
and in spite of all the research which has been lavished on its shores； a
naturalist cannot； I suspect； work there for a winter without discovering
forms new to science； or meeting with curiosities which have escaped all
observers； since the lynx eye of Montagu espied them full fifty years
ago。
Follow us； then； reader； in imagination； out of the gay watering… place；
with its London shops and London equipages； along the broad road
beneath the sunny limestone cliff； tufted with golden furze； past the huge
oaks and green slopes of Tor Abbey； and past the fantastic rocks of
Livermead； scooped by the waves into a labyrinth of double and triple
caves； like Hindoo temples； upborne on pillars banded with yellow and
white and red； a week's study； in form and colour and chiaro…oscuro； for
any artist； and a mile or so further along a pleasant road； with land…
locked glimpses of the bay； to the broad sheet of sand which lies
between the village of Paignton and the sea … sands trodden a hundred
times by Montagu and Turton； perhaps； by Dillwyn and Gaertner； and
many another pioneer of science。 And once there； before we look at
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anything else； come down straight to the sea marge； for yonder lies； just
left by the retiring tide； a mass of life such as you will seldom see again。
It is somewhat ugly； perhaps； at first sight； for ankle…deep are spread； for
some ten yards long by five broad； huge dirty bivalve shells； as large as
the hand； each with its loathly grey and black siphons hanging out； a
confused mass of slimy death。 Let us walk on to some cleaner heap；
and leave these； the great Lutraria Elliptica； which have been lying
buried by thousands in the sandy mud； each with the point of its long
siphon above the surface； sucking in and driving out again the salt water
on which it feeds； till last night's ground…swell shifted the sea…bottom；
and drove them up hither to perish helpless； but not useless； on the
beach。
See； close by is another shell bed； quite as large； but comely enough
to please any eye。 What a variety of forms and colours are there； amid
the purple and olive wreaths of wrack； and bladder… weed； and tangle （ore…
weed； as they call it in the south）； and the delicate green ribbons of the
Zostera （the only English flowering plant which grows beneath the sea）。
What are they all？ What are the long white razors？ What are the
delicate green…grey scimitars？ What are the tapering brown spires？
What the tufts of delicate yellow plants like squirrels' tails； and lobsters'
horns； and tamarisks； and fir…trees； and all other finely cut animal and
vegetable forms？ What are the groups of grey bladders； with
something like a li
