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the most ancient; for there go always four to a mess。 If there is
a temple within that syphogranty; the priest and his wife sit with
the syphogrant above all the rest: next them there is a mixture of
old and young; who are so placed; that as the young are set near
others; so they are mixed with the more ancient; which they say
was appointed on this account; that the gravity of the old people;
and the reverence that is due to them; might restrain the younger
from all indecent words and gestures。 Dishes are not served up to
the whole table at first; but the best are first set before the
old; whose seats are distinguished from the young; and after them
all the rest are served alike。 The old men distribute to the
younger any curious meats that happen to be set before them; if
there is not such an abundance of them that the whole company may
be served alike。
Thus old men are honored with a particular respect; yet all the
rest fare as well as they。 Both dinner and supper are begun with
some lecture of morality that is read to them; but it is so short;
that it is not tedious nor uneasy to them to hear it: from hence
the old men take occasion to entertain those about them with some
useful and pleasant enlargements; but they do not engross the
whole discourse so to themselves; during their meals; that the
younger may not put in for a share: on the contrary; they engage
them to talk; that so they may in that free way of conversation
find out the force of everyone's spirit and observe his temper。
They despatch their dinners quickly; but sit long at supper;
because they go to work after the one; and are to sleep after the
other; during which they think the stomach carries on the
concoction more vigorously。 They never sup without music; and
there is always fruit served up after meat; while they are at
table; some burn perfumes and sprinkle about fragrant ointments
and sweet waters: in short; they want nothing that may cheer up
their spirits: they give themselves a large allowance that way;
and indulge themselves in all such pleasures as are attended with
no inconvenience。 Thus do those that are in the towns live
together; but in the country; where they live at great distance;
everyone eats at home; and no family wants any necessary sort of
provision; for it is from them that provisions are sent unto those
that live in the towns。