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common　people。　Although　it　has　been　acted　time　out　of　mind；　it　never

fails　to　draw　crowds；　who　become　completely　lost　in　the　delusions　of

the　scene。　When　their　favorite　Pulgar　strides　about　with　many　a　mouthy

speech；　in　the　very　midst　of　the　Moorish　capital；　he　is　cheered　with

enthusiastic　bravos；　and　when　he　nails　the　tablet　to　the　door　of　the

mosque；　the　theatre　absolutely　shakes　with　the　thunders　of　applause。

On　the　other　hand；　the　unlucky　actors　who　figure　in　the　part　of　the

Moors；　have　to　bear　the　brunt　of　popular　indignation；　which　at　times

equals　that　of　the　Hero　of　La　Mancha；　at　the　puppet…show　of　Gines　de

Passamonte；　for；　when　the　infidel　Tarfe　plucks　down　the　tablet　to

tie　it　to　his　horse's　tail；　some　of　the　audience　rise　in　fury；　and　are

ready　to　jump　upon　the　stage　to　revenge　this　insult　to　the　Virgin。

　　By　the　way；　the　actual　lineal　descendant　of　Hernando　del　Pulgar

was　the　Marquis　de　Salar。　As　the　legitimate　representative　of　that

madcap　hero；　and　in　commemoration　and　reward　of　this　hero's　exploit；

above　mentioned；　he　inherited　the　right　to　enter　the　cathedral　on

certain　occasions；　on　horseback；　to　sit　within　the　choir；　and　to　put

on　his　hat　at　the　elevation　of　the　host；　though　these　privileges

were　often　and　obstinately　contested　by　the　clergy。　I　met　him

occasionally　in　society；　he　was　young；　of　agreeable　appearance　and

manners；　with　bright　black　eyes；　in　which　appeared　to　lurk　some　of　the

fire　of　his　ancestors。　Among　the　paintings　in　the　Vivarrambla；　on

the　fete　of　Corpus　Christi；　were　some　depicting；　in　vivid　style；　the

exploits　of　the　family　hero。　An　old　gray…headed　servant　of　the　Pulgars

shed　tears　on　beholding　them；　and　hurried　home　to　inform　the

marquis。　The　eager　zeal　and　enthusiasm　of　the　old　domestic　only

provoked　a　light　laugh　from　his　young　master；　whereupon；　turning　to

the　brother　of　the　marquis；　with　that　freedom　allowed　in　Spain　to

old　family　servants；　〃Come；　senor；〃　cried　he；　〃you　are　more

considerate　than　your　brother；　come　and　see　your　ancestor　in　all　his

glory！〃

　　In　emulation　of　this　great　Dia　de　la　Toma　of　Granada；　almost　every

village　and　petty　town　of　the　mountains　has　its　own　anniversary；

commemorating；　with　rustic　pomp　and　uncouth　ceremonial；　its

deliverance　from　the　Moorish　yoke。　On　these　occasions；　according　to

Mateo；　a　kind　of　resurrection　takes　place　of　ancient　armor　and

weapons；　great　two…handed　swords；　ponderous　arquebuses　with

matchlocks；　and　other　warlike　relics；　treasured　up　from　generation

to　generation；　since　the　time　of　the　Conquest；　and　happy　the　community

that　possesses　some　old　piece　of　ordnance；　peradventure　one　of　the

identical　lombards　used　by　the　conquerors；　it　is　kept　thundering　along

the　mountains　all　day　long；　provided　the　community　can　afford

sufficient　expenditure　of　powder。

　　In　the　course　of　the　day；　a　kind　of　warlike　drama　is　enacted。　Some

of　the　populace　parade　the　streets；　fitted　out　with　the　old　armor；

as　champions　of　the　faith。　Others　appear　dressed　up　as　Moorish

warriors。　A　tent　is　pitched　in　the　public　square；　inclosing　an　altar

with　an　image　of　the　Virgin。　The　Christian　warriors　approach　to

perform　their　devotions；　the　infidels　surround　the　tent　to　prevent

their　entrance；　a　mock　fight　ensues；　the　combatants　sometimes　forget

that　they　are　merely　playing　a　part；　and　dry　blows　of　grievous

weight　are　apt　to　be　exchanged。　The　contest；　however；　invariably

terminates　in　favor　of　the　good　cause。　The　Moors　are　defeated　and

taken　prisoners。　The　image　of　the　Virgin；　rescued　from　thraldom；　is

elevated　in　triumph；　a　grand　procession　succeeds；　in　which　the

conquerors　figure　with　great　applause　and　vainglory；　while　their

captives　are　led　in　chains；　to　the　evident　delight　and　edification

of　the　spectators。

　　These　celebrations　are　heavy　drains　on　the　treasuries　of　these　petty

communities；　and　have　sometimes　to　be　suspended　for　want　of　funds；

but；　when　times　grow　better；　or　sufficient　money　has　been　hoarded

for　the　purpose；　they　are　resumed　with　new　zeal　and　prodigality。

　　Mateo　informed　me　that　he　had　occasionally　assisted　at　these　fetes

and　taken　a　part　in　the　combats；　but　always　on　the　side　of　the　true

faith；　〃Porque　senor；〃　added　the　ragged　descendant　of　the　cardinal

Ximenes；　tapping　his　breast　with　something　of　an　air；　〃porque　senor；

soy　Cristiano　viejo。〃

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　Local　Traditions。



　　THE　COMMON　people　of　Spain　have　an　Oriental　passion　for

story…telling；　and　are　fond　of　the　marvellous。　They　will　gather

round　the　doors　of　their　cottages　in　summer　evenings；　or　in　the

great　cavernous　chimney…corners　of　the　ventas　in　the　winter；　and

listen　with　insatiable　delight　to　miraculous　legends　of　saints；

perilous　adventures　of　travellers；　and　daring　exploits　of　robbers

and　contrabandistas。　The　wild　and　solitary　character　of　the　country；

the　imperfect　diffusion　of　knowledge；　the　scarceness　of　general　topics

of　conversation；　and　the　romantic　adventurous　life　that　every　one

leads　in　a　land　where　travelling　is　yet　in　its　primitive　state；　all

contribute　to　cherish　this　love　of　oral　narration；　and　to　produce　a

strong　infusion　of　the　extravagant　and　incredible。　There　is　no

theme；　however；　more　prevalent　and　popular　than　that　of　treasures

buried　by　the　Moors；　it　pervades　the　whole　country。　In　traversing

the　wild　sierras；　the　scenes　of　ancient　foray　and　exploit；　you

cannot　see　a　Moorish　atalaya；　or　watchtower；　perched　among　the　cliffs；

or　beetling　above　its　rock…built　village；　but　your　muleteer；　on

being　closely　questioned；　will　suspend　the　smoking　of　his　cigarillo　to

tell　some　tale　of　Moslem　gold　buried　beneath　its　foundations；　nor　is

there　a　ruined　alcazar　in　a　city　but　has　its　golden　tradition；

handed　down　from　generation　to　generation　among　the　poor　people　of　the

neighborhood。

　　These；　like　most　popular　fictions；　have　sprung　from　some　scanty

groundwork　of　fact。　During　the　wars　between　Moor　and　Christian　which

distracted　this　country　for　centuries；　towns　and　castles　were　liable

frequently　and　suddenly　to　change　owners；　and　the　inhabitants；

during　sieges　and　assaults；　were　fain　to　bury　their　money　and　jewels

in　the　earth；　or　hide　them　in　vaults　and　wells；　as　is　often　done　at

the　present　day　in　the　despotic　and　belligerent　countries　of　the　East。

At　the　time　of　the　expulsion　of　the　Moors　also；　many　of　them　concealed

their　most　precious　effects；　hoping　that　their　exile　would　be　but

temporary；　and　that　they　would　be　enabled　to　return　and　retrieve　their

treasures　at　some　future　day。　It　is　certain　that　from　time　to　time

hoards　of　gold　and　silver　coin　have　been　accidentally　digged　up；　after

a　lapse　of　centuries；　from　among　the　ruins　of　Moorish　fortresses　and

habitations；　and　it　requires　but　a　few　facts　of　the　kind　to　give　birth

to　a　thousand　fictions。

　　The　stories　thus　originating　have　generally　something　of　an　Oriental

tinge；　and　are　marked　with　that　mixture　of　the　Arabic　and　the　Gothic

which　seems　to　me　to　characterize　every　thing　in　Spain；　and　especially

in　its　southern　provinces。　The　hidden　wealth　is　always　laid　under

magic　spell；　and　secured　by　charm　and　talisman。　Sometimes　it　is

guarded　by　uncouth　monsters　or　fiery　dragons；　sometimes　by　enchanted

Moors；　who　sit　by　it　in　armor；　with　drawn　swords；　but　motionless　as

statues；　maintaining　a　sleepless　watch　for　ages。

　　The　Alhambra　of　course；　from　the　peculiar　circumstances　of　its

history；　is　a　strong…hold　for　popular　fictions　of　the　kind；　and

various　relics；　digged　up　from　time　to　time；　have　contributed　to

strengthen　them。　At　one　time　an　earthen　vessel　was　found　containing

Moorish　coins　and　the　skeleton　of　a　cock；　which；　according　to　the

opinion　of　certain　shrewd　inspectors；　must　have　been　buried　alive。

At　another　time　a　vessel　was　dug　up　containing　a　great　scarabaeus　or

beetle　of　baked　clay；　covered　with　Arabic　inscriptions；　which　was

pronounced　a　prodigious　amulet　of　occult　virtues。　In　this　way　the　wits

of　the　ragged　brood　who　inhabit　the　Alhambra　have　been　set

wool…gathering；　until　there　is　not　a　hall；　nor　tower；　nor　vault；　of

the　old　fortress；　that　has　not　been　made　the　scene　of　some

marvellous　tradition。　Having；　I　trust；　in　the　preceding　papers　made

the　reader　in　some　degree　familiar　with　the　localities　of　the

Alhambra；　I　shall　now　launch　out　more　largely　into　the　wonderful

legends　connected　with　it；　and　which　I　have　diligently　wrought　into

shape　and　form；　from　various　legendary　scraps　and　hints　picked　up　in

the　course　of　my　perambulations；　in　the　same　manner；　that　an　antiquary

works　out　a　regular　historical　document　from　a　few　scattered　letters

of　an　almost　defaced　inscription。

　　If　any　thing　in　these　legends　should　shock　the　faith　of　the

over…scrupulous　reader；　he　must　remember　the　nature　of　the　place；

and　make　due　allowances。　He　must　not　expect　here　the　same　laws　of

probability　that　govern　commonplace　scenes　and　everyday　life；　he

must　remember　that　he　treads　the　halls　of　an　enchanted　palace；　and

that　all　is　〃haunted　ground。〃

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　The　House　of　the　Weathercock。



　　ON　THE　brow　of　the　lofty　hill　of　the　Albaycin；　the　highest　part　of

Granada；　and　which　rises　from　the　narrow　valley　of　the　Darro；　directly

opposite　to　the　Alhambra；　stands　all　that　is　left　of　what　was　once　a

royal　palace　of　the　Moors。　it　has；　in　fact；　fallen　into　such

obscurity；　that　it　cost　me　much　trouble　to　find　it；　though　aided　in　my

researches；　by　the　sagacious　and　all…knowing　Mateo　Ximenes。　This

edifice　has　borne　for　centuries　the　name　of　〃The　House　of　the

Weathercock〃　（La　Casa　del　Gallo　de　Viento）；　from　a　bronze　figure　on

one　of　its　turrets；　in　ancient　times；　of　a　warrior　on　horseback；　and

turning　with　every　breeze。　This　weathercock　was　considered　by　the

Moslems　of　Granada　a　portentous　talisman。　According　to　some

traditions；　it　bore　the　following　Arabic　inscription：



　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　Calet　et　Bedici　Aben　Habuz；

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　Quidat　ehahet　Lindabuz。



Which　has　been　rendered　into　Spanish：