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by about two hundred of our American colony; and a dinner at



which he and Mrs。 Harrison made the acquaintance of leading



representative Germans in various fields。







In another chapter of these memoirs I have spoken of President



Harrison as of cold and; at times; abrupt manners; but the



absence of these characteristics during his stay in Berlin; and



afterward in New York; made it clear to me that the cold exterior



which I had noted in him at Washington; especially when Mr。



Roosevelt; Mr。 Lodge; and sundry others of us urged upon him an



extension of the classified civil service; was adopted as a means



of preventing encroachments upon the time necessary for his daily



duties。 He now appeared in a very different light; his discussion



of men and events showing not only earnest thought and deep



penetration; but a rich vein of humor; his whole bearing being



simple; kindly; and dignified。







During the winter of 1899…1900 came an addition to my experiences



of what American representatives abroad have to expect under our



present happy…go…lucky provision for the diplomatic service。 As



already stated; on arriving in Berlin; I had great difficulty in



obtaining any fitting quarters; but at last secured a large and



suitable apartment in an excellent part of the city; its only



disadvantage being that my guests had to plod up seventy…five



steps in order to reach it。 Having been obliged to make large



outlays for suitable fittings; extensive repairs; and furniture



throughout; I found that more than the entire salary of my first



year had been thus sunk; but I congratulated myself that I had at



least obtained a residence good; comfortable; and suitable。 To be



sure; it was inferior to that of any other ambassador; but I had



fitted it up so that it was considered creditable。 Suddenly;



about two years afterward; without a word of warning; came notice



from the proprietor that my lease was voidthat he had sold the



house; and that I must leave it; so that it looked as if the



American Embassy would; at an early day; be turned into the



street。 This was trying indeed。 It was at the beginning of the



social season; and interfered greatly with my duties of every



sort。 And there cropped out a feeling; among all conversant with



the case; which I cannot say was conducive to respect for the



wisdom of those who give laws to our country。







But; happily; I had insisted on inserting in the lease a clause



which seemed to make it doubtful whether the proprietor could



turn me out so easily and speedily。 Under German law it was a



very precarious reliance; but on this I took my stand; and at



last; thanks mainly to the kindness of my colleague who succeeded



me as a tenant; made a compromise under which I was enabled to



retain the apartment for something over a year longer。







It may be interesting for an American who has a proper feeling



regarding the position of his country abroad to know that the



purchaser of the entire housenot only of the floor which I had



occupied; but of the similar apartment beneath; as well as that



on the ground floorwas the little Grand Duchy of Baden; which



in this way provided for its minister; secretaries; and others



connected with its legation in the German capital。







On the theory of line upon line and precept upon precept; I again



call attention; NOT to the wrong done ME by this American policy;



or rather want of policy;for I knew in coming what I had to



expect;but to the injury thus done to the PROPER STANDING OF



OUR COUNTRY BEFORE THE OTHER NATIONS OF THE WORLD。 Again I insist



that; in its own interest; a government like ours ought; in every



capital where it is represented; to possess or to hold on long



lease a house or apartment suitable to its representative and



creditable to itself。







Early in the spring of 1900 came an event of some historical



interest。 On the 19th of March and the two days following was



celebrated the two…hundredth anniversary of the founding of the



Royal Academy of Sciences。 The Emperor; as well as the Academy;



had determined to make it a great occasion; and the result was a



series of very brilliant pageants。 These began by a solemn



reception of the delegates from all parts of the world in the



great hall of the palace; my duty being to represent the



Smithsonian Institution at Washington; and my colleagues being



Professors White and Wolf of Harvard; who had been sent by the



American Academy of Sciences。 The scene was very striking; all



the delegates; except those from America and Switzerland; being



in the costumes of the organizations they represented; most were



picturesque; and some had a very mediaeval appearance; those from



the ancient universities of Wurzburg and Prague; especially;



looking as if they had just stepped out of an illuminated



manuscript of the fourteenth century。 At the time named for the



beginning of the festival the Emperor entered; announced by the



blare of trumpets; preceded by ministers bearing the sword;



standard; and great seal; and by generals bearing the crown;



scepter; and orb。 He was surrounded by the highest officials of



the kingdom and empire; and having taken his seat on the throne;



there came majestic music preluding sundry orations and lists of



honors conferred on eminent men of science in all parts of the



world; among whom I was glad to note Professors Gibbs of Yale;



James of Harvard; and Rowland of Johns Hopkins。







The Emperor's speech was characteristic。 It showed that his heart



was in the matter; that he felt a just pride in the achievements



of German science; and was determined that no efforts of his



should be wanting to increase and extend them。 After the close of



the function; which was made in the same stately way as its



beginning; my colleagues drove home with me; and one of them



said; 〃Well; I am an American and a republican; but when I am in



a monarchy I like to see a thing of this kind done in the most



magnificent way possible; as it was this morning。〃 A day or two



afterward; at the dinner given to the ambassadors by the Emperor;



I told him this story。 He laughed heartily; and then said: 〃Your



friend is right: if a man is to be a monarch; let him be a



monarch; Dom Pedro of Brazil tried to be something else; and it



did not turn out well。〃







Impressive in a different way were the ceremonies attendant upon



the coming of age of the German crown prince; on the 6th of May;



1900。 To do honor to the occasion; the Emperor Franz Josef of



Austria…Hungary had sent word that he would be present; and for



many days the whole city seemed mainly devoted to decorating its



buildings and streets for his visit; the culmination of the whole



being at the Pariser Platz; in front of the Brandenburg Gate;



where a triumphal arch and obelisks were erected; with other



decorations; patriotic and complimentary。 On the morning of the



4th he arrived; and; entering the city at the side of the German



Emperor; each in the proper uniform of the other; he was received



by the burgomaster and town council of Berlin with a most cordial



speech; and then; passing on through the Linden; which was



showily decorated; he was enthusiastically greeted everywhere。 No



doubt this greeting was thoroughly sincere; since all good



Germans look upon Franz Josef as their truest ally。







Next evening there was a 〃gala〃 performance at the Royal Opera;



the play presented being; of all things in the world; Auber's



〃Bronze Horse;〃 which is a farcical Chinese fairy tale set to



very light and pleasing music。 The stage setting was gorgeous;



but the audience was still more so; delegates from all the



greater powers of the world being present; including the heirs to



the British and Italian thrones; the Grand Duke Constantine of



Russia; and a multitude of other scions of royalty。 One feature



was comical。 Near me sat His Excellency the Chinese minister;



surrounded by his secretaries and attaches; all apparently



delighted; and on my asking him; through his interpreter; how he



liked it; he said; 〃Very much; this shows the Europeans that in



China we know how to amuse ourselves。〃 Of the fact that it was a



rather highly charged caricature of Chinese officialdom he seemed



either really or diplomatically unconscious。







On the following morning I was received in audience by the German



Emperor; bringing to him a warm message of congratulation from



President McKinley; and when His Majesty had replied very



cordially; he introduced me to the crown prince standing at his



side; to whom I gave the President's best wishes。 Then came; in



the chapel of the palace; an impressive religious service; the



address by Dr。 Dryander being eloquent; and the music; by the



cathedral choir and; at times; by a great military orchestra;



both far above us in the dome; beautiful。 At its close the crown



prince came forward; stood before the altar; where I had seen his



parents married twenty years before; and the oath of allegiance;



which was quite long; having been read to him by the colonel of



his regiment; he repeated it; word for word; and made his solemn



pledge; lifting one hand and grasping the imperial standard with



the other。 Then; after receiving affectionate embraces from his



father and mother; he was congratulated by the sovereigns and



royal personages。 The ambassadors and ministers having been then




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